Author Topic: What all is involved (read: How crazy would I have to be) to do my own clutch?  (Read 7331 times)

Offline Tom H

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^^^ That's the one Norm . If you follow Pete's instructions to the letter the job is doable . The first Tonti frame clutch job I did in about 2002 was done using a set of written instructions provided by a friend , it started out with the sentence ; "Contrary to popular theory , it will not be necessary to remove the forks from the motorcycle , just everything else"  :laugh: Wasn't even my bike , I am a glutton for punishment  :shocked:

 Dusty

With this said. It would depend on the height of the stand for the engine. You may at least need to remove the front wheel to have a bit more room to tilt.

Hope to see you at Henshaw again. This year I plan to PEN it in.

Tom
2004 Cali EV Touring
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Offline Scud

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Norm - I've got a bunch of special tools for the clutch work. I've done it a few times on V11 Sports. I found the easiest way is to remove the engine, but it may be a different story on different models. Let me know if you want to borrow some tools.
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Offline Dharma Bum

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I'll vouch for Fotoguzzi 's clutch tool.  It worked on mine.

Offline SmithSwede

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A few months ago I replaced the clutch and input shaft bearing on a V7 Small Block.  Essentially by myself, although my daughter helped me heave a few times.   This is entirely doable if you do not mind getting greasy and are patient.  Think through and plan how you will raise, hoist, and secure the bike and its components.

I suggest you have some tape and a bunch of post it notes.   Any wire, hose, or other assembly you take apart, immediately label both ends so you are certain where it goes back.   If you have an iPhone or similar, take tons of photographs from lots of angles of what you are doing.  Or draw a lot of pictures and notes on a legal pad.  Put all screws and such back immediately where you found them, not in a big cluttered pile. 

Be prepared to learn stuff, and forgive yourself for your screwups.   For example I ripped the wire out of the neutral light sensor when I removed the frame off the engine.  Did not see it; was too stupid to look for it, even though I should have known it was lurking thereabouts.   Tried to solder it back together later, but melted everything because it was half plastic.   Ok.  Fail.  But just a $43 mistake, and I dang sure know where that sensor is now and will never repeat my error.

If you get stymied or frustrated, then slow down, think it through, drink a beer.

In the immortal words of Roger Miller:  knuckle down, buckle down, Do It, Do It, Do It.
Accentuate the positive;
Eliminate the negative;
Latch on to the affirmative;
Don't mess with Mister In-Between.

Wildguzzi.com


pete roper

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With the later Cali 1100's the biggest bugbear is the wretched airbox. As has been noted it's a pain to remove and a pain to replace but other than that it's still a Tonti so all it takes is time and patience.

Just remember, if it looks like you're going to have to force something you're doing it wrong.

Pete

Online Chuck in Indiana

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One of the special tools is "The box."  :smiley: It needs to be just the right height so you can remove the front wheel, pivot the frame around the front motor mount bolt, and slip a 2X4 between the heads to hold the frame up. At that point, you can have your way with the transmission, clutch, etc. to your heart's content.
crab 006 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr
Chuck in (Elwood) Indiana/sometimes SoCal
 
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Offline Stevex

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Done mine a couple of times and for me, I'd rather go the extra mile and remove the frame completely.
It makes working on the clutch so much easier and much more accessible; not sure my garage ceiling could take the weight either!
Never used a compression tool, just an alignment tool.
One thing's almost guaranteed though, you'll find more to fix than just the clutch!

Online Chuck in Indiana

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Norman, I've been giving this some thought. A Bassa is a pretty desirable bike, and maybe someone would buy it from you as is and fix it themselves. Put the proceeds from that and whatever you have saved up to fix the clutch and buy a runner. That job would be no fun for an inexperienced mechanic to do in a carport with no tools.
Just MHO.
Chuck in (Elwood) Indiana/sometimes SoCal
 
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22 Royal Enfield Classic 3 fiddy
 "Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe."
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Offline John A

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Chuck hit it right there because it looks like in your situation it would be ok if everything went well but if you hit a snag you might get stuck. that being said, just think of how wise you would be afterwards
John
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It is easier to fool people than it is to convince them that they have been fooled-Mark Twain
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Offline not-fishing

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I'd trust Dusty's and other time estimate and add 50% if I was doing it myself (and it would be the first time for me).

Shop labor cost you can only get by calling the shop of your choice and we are talking San Diego, Ca ($$$$$$$$$$) here not Oklahoma ($$$) or Australia ($$?).  Most people don't realize how much more SD or SF rates vary as compared to the rest of the world.  "California just has to be special"

I'll probably tackle the clutch when one of my Guzzi's need it mainly because I'd spend 4 hours just getting to the Dealer and picking it up.

Mark
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Offline malik

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Yes, once you have the motor out, there are other thing to check while there. You can clean stuff that you don't normally get to - I gave the whole motor a good scrubbing while out, and wiped down all those frame bits that collect dust over the years, refreshed the earths, and because I had the throttle bodies off - it's a 2 throttle body V7, so they had to come off to acces the "screw of doom" - I cleaned the black gunk from the insides of the throttle bodies. Give the main gearshift a spin to check for bearing noise, mine was fine, the wrecked Nevada's wasn't. If it sounds like your bearings are suspect, then you can decide whether to try replacing them yourself, or just take the gearbox to a professional - even so, you save a lot on labour that way. And your other bike is running, isn't it? It's for times like this that we try to have at least one other runner. I've carried a gearbox strapped (firmly) to the back seat before.
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Offline normzone

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" And your other bike is running, isn't it? "

Yeah ... about that. There is no other bike.

I've come full circle - I'm looking for another Guzzi to ride while I repair or bookend this one.

I was telling my wife last night - " if this had happened three months ago, while I had severence package money sitting in the bank, and three months of idle time on my hands, I would have happily (exaggeration) spread the bike all over my friend's garage and had money for parts "

Now I'm broke (Southern California 21st century broke), just started working again and need a commuter bike while I earn the money to pay somebody else to fix this one, or wait until/if my contract assignment ends/becomes regular full time.

So, like Ralph Glorioso said, " find the latest model lowest miles Guzzi you can afford ". I'd probably have to do financing - and all I want is another one within a few years either way from my '99 Bassa.

First world 21st century So Cal problems ...  :grin:
« Last Edit: June 21, 2018, 04:50:46 PM by normzone »
That's the combustion chamber of the turbo shaft. It is supposed to be on fire. You just don't usually see it but the case and fairing fell off.

Offline SmithSwede

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Someone said compression tool, and that reminded me of something else that stumped me that I had not expected.   

When you finally expose the clutch within its dark lair, it will of course be compressed by spring pressure against the plates.  When you unbolt the clutch housing, you release the spring pressure.  So taking it apart is easy.  But when you go to put it back together, the clutch housing bolts are too short to reach, and you cannot compress the clutch spring enough by hand to get them started. 

I had to buy some much longer bolts of the same size, get a few started to compress the spring, and then replace the extra long bolts with the correct ones. 

My redneck method worked, but I am not sure how you are supposed to do this the pro way.   This was for a small block, so maybe the big block is different.
« Last Edit: June 21, 2018, 08:11:52 PM by SmithSwede »
Accentuate the positive;
Eliminate the negative;
Latch on to the affirmative;
Don't mess with Mister In-Between.

Offline fotoguzzi

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the compression tool is like insurance, with out it you risk warping the intermediate plate when tightening the pressure plate bolts down, BTDT.

MINNEAPOLIS, MN

Offline SmithSwede

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I can tell that Chuck is an ace mechanic because his picture shows him working next to a huge pit covered by a coarse grate.  A lesser mechanic would not do that because 1/3 of the removed parts would wind up lost forever down the grate. 
Accentuate the positive;
Eliminate the negative;
Latch on to the affirmative;
Don't mess with Mister In-Between.

oldbike54

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I can tell that Chuck is an ace mechanic because his picture shows him working next to a huge pit covered by a coarse grate.  A lesser mechanic would not do that because 1/3 of the removed parts would wind up lost forever down the grate.

 Yeah , Chuckie only loses cell phones  :evil:

 Dusty

Offline SmithSwede

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Ouch!
Accentuate the positive;
Eliminate the negative;
Latch on to the affirmative;
Don't mess with Mister In-Between.

Offline Tom H

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Price wise for the repair. Let's say just a clutch plate crapped out. You're looking at about $120 there about for the pair, I would not just replace one. Unless you have to have the trans worked on, there really are not any gaskets, seals, fluids that would "require" replacing. With that said, there are a few seals that I might replace and a few bearings that I would repack or replace as needed. Wurth grease on the splined shafts and your pretty much good to go.

Now if your going to be a perfectionist. While your in there, you might also pull the engine and strip it down to replace all the seals and other bits since your there. Also clean out the sludge trap in the crank, I think they still have that?? The rear drive would also be in the need of service, again, while your in there.

I assume that you have a car to take to work. I know, that sucks, I'd go crazy if I had to drive. If so,the bike could be laid up for a week or so. As mentioned, if it's just the clutch plates, about 2 days worth of work. As mentioned, it could be done in one day if you know what your doing.

Again, good luck and if needed, you know how to get a hold of me. Not an expert, far from it, but I know what a wrench is :wink: Have tool bag, will ride :laugh:
Tom
2004 Cali EV Touring
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1970 Ambo V1000
1973 R75/5 SWB with Toaster
2007 HD Street Bob
1953 Triumph 6T (one day it will be on the road!)

Online huub

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come on, you are not swapping bikes to avoid a weekend of spannering?
just get on with it, this is not rocket science.
the first time i did it on a smallblock took me a full day, now i am down to 2 hours. ( used off road a smallblock eats clutch plates, i had lots of practice) 
on a tonti i can do it in three hours,
So if you take the weekend, invite a mate, buy beer , snacks and get the BBQ ready for the evening.
you might actually enjoy the work.

Online Chuck in Indiana

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FWIW, I've done some maintenance on bikes that I had out in SoCal at the time. I wouldn't look forward to changing out a clutch in the driveway with no tools. Just changing the oil and filter on the Mighty Scura was a total PITA. Fortunately, Mark at MG Classics let me use his shop if I really needed to. Hated to take advantage of his generosity, though.
Speaking of Mark.. if Shawn is too pricey, maybe give Mark a call? Tell him I sent ya.  :smiley:
Chuck in (Elwood) Indiana/sometimes SoCal
 
87 AeroLario
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 "Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe."
Albert Einstein

Offline Testarossa

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SmithSwede's solution will work but as Fotoguzzi said, a compression tool is better to make sure the steel intermediate plate is lined up. I made my own compression tool for about $4:  a PVC pipe end cap, a big washer and a bolt.




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Offline Peter949

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Tom H mentioned in his post that a perfectionist might change the engine seals and clean out the crankshaft sludge trap. My 84 California does have the oil filter from the factory, but did the 84 Guzzi crankshafts still use that sludge trap?  Sorry about the 'Thread Drift.'  :rolleyes:



Peter

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Offline John A

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If he's doing it himself, he's not going to be yarding the crankshaft out just to clean out the sludge trap. just replace the clutch and leave the transmission and engine alone unless it has a problem that needs to be dealt with.
John
MGNOC L-471
It is easier to fool people than it is to convince them that they have been fooled-Mark Twain
99 Bassa, sidecar
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Offline malik

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If it ain't broke, it doesn't need fixing. If my small lock experience translates to the big block, I'd check the pads on the old clutch - the tolerance should be in the manual. Just as a matter of interest, if nothing else. Don't toss the old clutch, the centre can be made into a special tool. If you find oil in the bell housing, there's probably an oil leak - mine was from the seal on the clutch push rod (mine had a reddish tinge, as did a mates T3 Cali - likely from the pad material?), and there is also the engine main seal and the one on the gearbox looking out at you. Inspect carefully before & after cleaning. Take photos, lots, & make notes, extensive. It ends up helping when you start putting things back together.

If you don't have access to another vehicle, get one - the cheapest you can find that's still running, it doesn't matter what, a push bike as a last resort, or borrow something. You won't need it long, sell it or give it back afterwards, but it's useful for quicks runs for the odd bolt, washer, degreaser,  torch batteries, lube, tool.

And importantly, handy access to decent coffee or tea, and a fridge. There will be times when you'll need a breather and these give you an excuse while you ponder.
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Offline normzone

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I want to thank all of you, each and every one of you for your support and counsel in this thread. A man is fortunate indeed who can number friends and counselors of your ilk among his peers.

I'm going to leave this thread on the forum as an information source for the next poor devil who finds himself in my shoes.

But I've decided to live dangerously - tomorrow at the crack of dawn, when the rooster crows (okay, when the coffee pot goes off), I'm going to rise, and after taking drugs (nothing more interesting than coffee and blood pressure medication, unfortunately), I'm going to ride the bike to OC Motorcycles, and put it in the hands of Sean Fader - If it doesn't explode on the way up there - if it does I'll probably just leave it by the roadside with a "Free Motorcycle" sign on it.

I am booked for the next few weeks getting paid to audit, and possibly for several more weeks after that. This gig will pay the repair bill, whatever it may be.

Not to change the subject, but do any of you know the provenance of this machine ? I'm STILL hunting for another Guzzi.

https://www.cycletrader.com/San-Rafael-Moto-Guzzi-Motorcycles/motorcycles-for-sale?type=Motorcycle%7C356953&make=Moto%20Guzzi%7C2319674&city=san%20rafael&state=California%7CCA&

Yes, I am likely mad, but perhaps the tequila will help ....

That's the combustion chamber of the turbo shaft. It is supposed to be on fire. You just don't usually see it but the case and fairing fell off.

Offline malik

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No, you're not mad. A very nice ride & that one looks in good nick. Enjoy.
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Online Chuck in Indiana

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Good choice. Sean is one of the best mechanics I've ever known. It'll be right when you get it back. Probably not the cheapest choice (Guzzi content) but a dependable one. Good work doesn't come cheap.. <shrug>
Chuck in (Elwood) Indiana/sometimes SoCal
 
87 AeroLario
95 Skorpion tour
22 Royal Enfield Classic 3 fiddy
 "Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe."
Albert Einstein

 

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