Timing Cover Seal Installation

[blackcat]

The seal is leaking a little (enough to cause a minor drip) on the CX and looking through the manual it says that I should use tool # 14927200. My first question is, can I remove the existing seal without removing the timing case cover and can I use a socket the size of the seal to install the new seal? Thanks.

[Chuck in Indiana]

I would think you could, but it will be a pretty deep socket. disclaimer.. I've never done it.

[blackcat]

I had assumed that I would need to remove the cover and now that I look at the factory tool, it looks like that cover has to come off.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

No need to remove the timing cover, just remove the alternator stator and rotor, then use a seal puller to pop the old seal out.



Be sure not to gouge the the timing cover with the pointed tip of the puller. A deep-well socket works fine for installing the new seal.

[blackcat]

Charlie, thanks. I purchased a gasket in case the cover needed to come off but I'd rather not have to remove it.  Stupid me, when I rebuilt the engine this replacement was on my list and it just slipped my mind.

[dxhall]

Does not the seal install from the inside?  I think the cover must come off.

[TOMB]

If you were doing tbis on  V700,Ambo,Eldo the yes the cover has to come off as those seals are installed from the inside.

The Toni framed ,T 850 T3 type install from the outside.

The hardest part is removing the rotor.

TOMB

[Chuck in Indiana]

The hardest part is removing the rotor.

Put your hardened pin in there, tighten the bolt good and tight, smack the end of the bolt head with your copper hammer.. and be ready to catch the rotor to keep it from falling on the floor. 
At least that has been my experience.

[John A]

Yep, it's an easy seal replacement, and good instructions on the posts here

[blackcat]

Yes, have the pin,seal puller and the seal.  I'm hoping this is the last of my oil weep/leaks on this bike. A few weeks ago I (with the help of GuzziOwner) laid the bike over, removed two old failed helicoils that I installed 12 or so years ago and found another stripped pan bolt and timeserted all three of them which ended a major leak.

I hate oil leaks.

Thanks all.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

If you were doing tbis on  V700,Ambo,Eldo the yes the cover has to come off as those seals are installed from the inside.

Not all V700s had a lip on the timing cover. So on those, it is possible to replace the seal without removing the timing cover.

[blackcat]

Start to finish this took about 10-15 minutes. The old seal could have come out with a paper clip it was leaking that bad.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Start to finish this took about 10-15 minutes. The old seal could have come out with a paper clip it was leaking that bad.

 

[Chuck in Indiana]

  Sometimes the worrying is worse than the doing..
Not to say worrying is bad, it makes you have a plan to execute.

[blackcat]

Sometimes the worrying is worse than the doing..
Not to say worrying is bad, it makes you have a plan to execute.

I kept putting this off because I thought that the timing cover had to come off. Not that that was that difficult, but it definitely would have taken much longer.

[Lesman]

I had a leak on my timing cover of my Quota. The gasket was clearly fubared. I replaced the gasket and the timing cover seal. Still had a leak. Turned out there is an o ring on the crank. Replaced the oil ring . Fixed the leak. Does the CX have this o ring?

[Kiwi_Roy]

Do tell what you used to install the new seal.

I found a 3/4 drive socket will slip over the long crank shaft to undo the sprocket nut.
Turn it with a pipe wrench or grind a couple of flats for a 12" Cresent Wrench.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I had a leak on my timing cover of my Quota. The gasket was clearly fubared. I replaced the gasket and the timing cover seal. Still had a leak. Turned out there is an o ring on the crank. Replaced the oil ring . Fixed the leak. Does the CX have this o ring?

No, only the later engines with a non-tapered "nose" on the crank have that o-ring.

[stevoreno]

can you explain how to get the pulley off and how you got it back on without changing the timing

[blackcat]

can you explain how to get the pulley off and how you got it back on without changing the timing

What bike are you talking about?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

can you explain how to get the pulley off and how you got it back on without changing the timing

On Loopframes (V700, Ambo, Eldo) the pulley can be incorrectly installed very easily (120 or 240 degrees off). Before you remove the pulley, rotate the engine until the left-side piston is at TDC. The TDC mark on the pulley should now align with the arrow on the timing cover. If you don't rotate the crank then you just align the marks again during assembly. If you do rotate the crank, simply repeat the above - find TDC on the left cylinder and align the TDC mark on the pulley with the arrow on the timing cover. 

I use an M6 x 50 bolt with the head cut off as an alignment stud. Thread it into one of the holes, then slide the pulley back half, shims and pulley front half on, thread in two bolts, remove stud, thread in third bolt.

[stevoreno]

Thanks for the info   

[stevoreno]

how do you get the big nut off without the special 12905300 tool.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

how do you get the big nut off without the special 12905300 tool.

Air or electric impact. If you have an Eldorado, insert a small pry bar in through the timing inspection hole on the right side of the transmission and engage the start ring gear to lock the engine from turning. May be able to put the bike in gear, hold the rear brake on and then loosen that nut. 

[stevoreno]

I made a tool and it bent :( is it right or left hand thread. I only had a pice of aluminum but I can double it up

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I made a tool and it bent :( is it right or left hand thread. I only had a pice of aluminum but I can double it up

Right-hand thread. It's on there tight, makes my air impact really "grunt" to remove it. On occasion I need to heat the nut to help convince it to move.

[stevoreno]

Thanks :) ill try again

[Scout63]

I would have crabbed the frame, pulled the gearbox, clutch and flywheel and pulled the crank from the rear.  Then the front oil seal would have been a breeze…

[Perazzimx14]

Put your hardened pin in there, tighten the bolt good and tight, smack the end of the bolt head with your copper hammer.. and be ready to catch the rotor to keep it from falling on the floor. 
At least that has been my experience.

Hardened pin or a section of the right size allen wrench cut to size 

[John A]

Don’t use something that will distort for it will get stuck and be a major bad thing to fix. Note everyone says “hardened pin”