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Ok, I'm always willing to learn.I've done some reading over the years on oils, and on differences between synthetics and conventional oils and how they do it don't break-down.With regards to viscosity though I still can't seem to get it straight. Maybe I need to go back to Bobstheoilguy and read some stickies again.I suspect the majority of the public is like me and doesn't understand viscosities correctly either.The oversimplification we're told is that the first # (W) represents how well it will flow cold, and the second number is how well it protects hot.Is that too simplified? Is there a better way to understand it?And if that's remotely accurate, how would a 10-40 ever protect better than a 10-60?They both flow the same a lower temps, and the 40 is never "thicker" at higher temps right?I think there's a reason we are starting to see fewer of those ambient temperature oil charts being included in OEM materials, especially if they spec synthetic oil in the first place. But I'm willing to learn.Thoughts?
First number is vis @ 0 degrees C, second number is vis @ 100 degrees C. For us 'mericans used to F - think H2O freezing & boiling points (at standard atmospheric pressure).At EQUAL temperature above 0C, 10W40 is going to be thinner than an 10W60 - no confusion there.BUTIn an air cooled motor absent thermostats (or even with an oil thermostat) where the ambient temperature largely dictates the temperature of the oil a 10W40 in a mild climate can be THICKER (higher vis) than a 10W60 operated in a hot climate. Why? Because the oil doesn't get nearly as hot. It's temperature that dictates how thin or thick an oil is at any time as well as its inherent viscosity properties (rating).Using a 0W20 in an engine that specifies 20W50 WOULD be the better choice if you're operating it in a low ambient temperature AND the oil temperature never rises above its corresponding viscosity that is equal to the RECOMMENDED viscosity you'd normally see on a warm/hot day.Generally, you can go lower on the "W" number no problem, no matter what the expected operating temps are. So, if you have an old motor that 20W50 was spec'd for you can use 10W50 or 0W50 no problem without looking at oil temps.Mineral vs synthetic aside, if someone wanted to use a 0W40 10W40 or 10W50 in the winter in lieu of a 10W60 it's a fairly safe bet. If the oil temperature doesn't get nearly as hot as summer then the temperature difference can dwarf the rated grade difference. Knowing your operating oil temps that you typically see during summer & winter AND verifying using a vis chart that whatever lube you propose to run won't thin beyond your factory recommended grade (in this case 10W60) during summer temps, would add some certainty.
I wonder how hot the oil gets when it is cooling the exhaust valve area and if this is the reason Guzzi specifies the "60". The oil in a subject Guzzi both lubricates the moving bits and cools a very hot part of the motor (ergo the dual oil pumps). Could it be that in the oil cooling passages of the exhaust valve area the temps get way hotter, even in moderate ambient air temps, than the rest of the oil while run in hot summer time temps?
Use the weights and specs the factory calls for , we are getting some posts from people who "think" they know more than the engineers , who are you going to believe ? Dusty
High quality 10W60 is available to anybody who has access to the internet, and at very reasonable prices.
Seriously, where do you come up with this stuff??
So,Who's sending their oil to Blackstone every change for analysis?
Personally I have enjoyed this conversation and have gain a great amount of knowledge on the, what I consider an important subject for guzzi owners, best oil for our bikes. If fact I have learned enough to come to this conclusion. It my not hurt my calvin to use a much less costly oil than the recommended 10-60 and the walmart 15-50 Mobil may carry her down the road 100k miles. On the other hand, is she worth the extra bucks to receive what her maker suggests and is Peace of mind knowing that I complied with the factory recommendation worth the extra effort and expense? Well, that's a question that each individual here must answer for themselves. As for me , I recon I'll head to NAPA and order 4 quarts of the best grade of 10-60 synthetic racing oil I can buy. Thanks to everyone who took of their time to post well researched responses to a complex and controversial issue such as this and for the respect that each poster displayed. Hats off to all you guys👍
However, be aware that some experts advise against "Racing Oil." They claim such oils are formulated for short-term use on a race track and not for extended highway use between changes.
Cost can't be the factor here:I use about 3L per oil change on my Griso (to get about 1/2 way up the stick), so I'll take this out to qty. 3 X 5L jugs . Mobil1 at Wally World is around $24/jug or $ 72.Liqui Molly at Amazon is around $40/jug or $120. It's a little more at NAPA: $45 and for $135 total.So to use the specified 10W60 will cost you an extra $50-60 bucks over 25-35k miles.
got ya leaf, I should have clarified a recommended brand instead of RACING OIL.
OK, now next thread - define RACING OIL.Mobil 1 Racing4T?Agip Racing4T - I mean that's the originally spec'd oil that started this thread no?
The question is high detergent VS low or no detergent . Traditionally racing oils had no or very low detergents , where as street oils are high detergent . Dusty
Without checking I suspect the term "racing oil" is being used for street oils in these and possibly other cases....