Norge 1200 exhaust valve issues

[mrv]

Yes I sent the picks as well as the name of the Guzzi dealer that would not help me to the customer care rep in Costa Mesa

[Huzo]

Do you have a plan as to how far you will delve into the guts to eradicate the DLC that's migrated through, or just remove the sump and flush what you can.
Have you had any advice on this matter, I've no knowlege of how good or bad these buggered ones can be, but it does look to be fairly rooted.
In any case, you will have a large degree of satisfaction working through the process.
I'll be interested to see your progress.

[pete roper]

Pics are pretty nasty. In a case like that I'd be definitely pulling the sump and for my own satisfaction back-flushing the oil cooler. Really, after that, it's in the lap of the gods.

Pete

[mrv]

what is the best way to back flush the oil cooler?

[Chuck in Indiana]

Well my vin# might not be included but results still the same.

Wow! That's pretty bad. I'd be having a look at the bottom end, oil pump, flushing as well as I could. Don't forget the pressure relief valve..

[guzzisteve]

Yes I sent the picks as well as the name of the Guzzi dealer that would not help me to the customer care rep in Costa Mesa

That's good, something may come of it yet. I would run some fuel through the cooler in the outlet. Clean everything you see w/dropping pan. I use a spray bottle & fuel. Good time to change the other pan gskt also.

[pete roper]

what is the best way to back flush the oil cooler?

I use the pressure line from our parts washer as long as the fluid is clean initially and then finish off by gravity flushing both ways before blowing it out with compressed air. Off the bike of course.

Steve's advice on the spacer gasket is good as well. The gasket between the block and the spacer is prone to blowing out around the delivery gallery due to the early gaskets being thin and brittle. There are nice, thick, supple, gaskets with a lot more crush available aftermarket that render the problem a non issue. Since you're going in removing an extra five or six bolts to drop the spacer is a no brainer.

Pete

[mrv]

Finally revived my parts, now I can start the repairs.
I feel like after I clean everything out as best I can to add an inexpensive oil to it run the bike till it reaches operating temp then change the oil and filter once again and put the good oil in it. Also put a magnet on the filter as well. Any thoughts?

[pete roper]

If you've dropped the sump and back flushed the cooler there's really no need for farting about with the cheap oil. Apart from anything else a mineral oil won't have the ability to withstand the heat in some parts of the motor. OK if you're just going to run it for a few minutes but I'd question the need, and waste, of such an approach.

Stick a new filter on, set the valves to 4 & 6 thou, add the required amount of decent synthetic yak fat, start it, tune it and then go ride the piss out of it.

Pete

[mrv]

So can any good synthetic oil be used as long as it is 10w-60? Eni is pricy stuff

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[mrv]

Can any good synthetic oil be used as long as it's 10w-60?Eni is pricy stuff and I have to order it.


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[LBC Tenni]

Yes, brand doesn’t matter.

[pete roper]

Yes, as long as it's a full ester synthetic. It's the ability to resist heat degradation that is important. Although the 8V runs stupidly cool there are points in the motor that run the oil extremely hot, only momentarily but very, very hot and a conventional mineral oil won't put up with it for long.

Pete

[bodine99]

Yes, as long as it's a full ester synthetic. It's the ability to resist heat degradation that is important. Although the 8V runs stupidly cool there are points in the motor that run the oil extremely hot, only momentarily but very, very hot and a conventional mineral oil won't put up with it for long.

Pete
[/quote
Is the flat tappet issue oil related? not enough ZDDP?? Just wondering, what a bleeped up deal!

[pete roper]

No it's not. That particular red herring has been flogged to death. Don't even think about going there!

[guzzisteve]

Well, how many here use Liqui Moly yak fat?  10W60 @ around $8. a lt.

Don't go oil thread.

[mrv]

Finally have the rollers installed dropped the sump cleaned everything out changed oil. Fired it up and everything sounds good only problem now the dash shows service oil. I went into setting and reset service but icon still shows on dash. I've searched a little on the forms but need to probably look deeper to see if there is an answer.

[Chuck in Indiana]

I hate it when stuff like that happens. <looking for beating head on brick wall emoticon> Shirley, Pete will be along shortly..

[beetle]

     

[Wayne Orwig]

Finally have the rollers installed dropped the sump cleaned everything out changed oil. Fired it up and everything sounds good only problem now the dash shows service oil. I went into setting and reset service but icon still shows on dash. I've searched a little on the forms but need to probably look deeper to see if there is an answer.

Maybe a sump gasket in backwards and you have low oil pressure.

[pete roper]

Did you drop the sump spacer as suggested?

[mrv]

Sump gasket only fits one way because when I laid it on the pan I had to flip it so it would fit, The oil pressure light is not on, it just shows service and then oil can icon.

[Wayne Orwig]

Have you looked for an error code?

[mrv]

Don't recall seeing one when I scrolled through

[pete roper]

Sump gasket only fits one way because when I laid it on the pan I had to flip it so it would fit, The oil pressure light is not on, it just shows service and then oil can icon.

Yup, but did you change the spacer gasket that goes between the block and the spacer?

[mrv]

I did not change the spacer gasket.

[pete roper]

Mistake.

While it my not be the problem the fact is when you remove the sump you will of upset the camping forces on the spacer and those early gaskets have a known fail point around the delivery side.

First I'd go and delete the error codes in the dash. If that fails throw a new oil pressure switch at it. If that doesn't work we'll have to look into it further but since you haven't really buggered about with anything that should affect the oil delivery I think the solution will be simple.

[mrv]

This is turning out to be one big lemon of a bike, I did not want a money pit just wanted to ride. I guess at least the big issue has been fixed.

[mrv]

Just checked faults. Shows DSB 06 - A M, DSB 08 M. I pulled valve cover and there is oil in the head so it looks like there is oil flowing. Guess I will pull the tank and airbox back off again to make sure I did not accidentally knock loos a plug.

[Wayne Orwig]

There are two pumps (you should have noticed two pickups in the sump). One simply pumps oil through the cooler and into the head to cool it. It has no sensors. The main oil pump has the sensor and has little to do with the work you did in the head. Unless you pulled the oil sensor wire, which I doubt, it has to be in the sump. Probably a simple thing, but annoying, of course.

Get this out of the way, and you should have a good ride for many thousands of miles.