Removing Centrestand springs

[Ozzydog]

Hi folks, sorry if this has been covered, I looked about but couldn't find it anywhere. Im about changing my lower rails and I obviously need to undo the centre stand but those springs worry me. Am I dreaming or is there a tool thats expands the spring a little to remove tension on the pins ? Is there any other way other than hook something on and grunt it out? I hope this isn't a stupid question but I want to know what Im up for before I start if you know what I mean
Thanks in advance for any advice
Andy

[Huzo]

I take mine off the Norge every 20,000 k and I do it by leaving the spring/s on, and taking out the left hand bolt first.
That lets the stand move up towards the engine, and relaxes the tension on the spring/s. The pivots appreciate the grease...Also, while you've got it off, clean it properly, and pre emptively improve the weld on the cross piece, because...
Mine broke while I was on the way to Dover from London in 2014 and I nigh shat myself when I heard an unholy rattle coming from underneath the bike, I did the trip without one, (a right pain too I'll attest..)
Also, if that weld let's go, on the cross piece as you're hauling it up on the stand, the whole shooting match is likely to go arse up! I put a slightly larger diameter piece of tube on mine with decent gauge.
Just sayin'...

[Chesterfield]

You can put the center stand down to expand the spring then stick pennys between the coils and when you bring the stand back up it the spring will stay extended. Or just huff it off which is what I usually end up doing. There are other ways too which somebody will post soon.

[rodekyll]

What bike?

[Huzo]

You can put the center stand down to expand the spring then stick pennys between the coils and when you bring the stand back up it the spring will stay extended. Or just huff it off which is what I usually end up doing. There are other ways too which somebody will post soon.

That's clever, I never thought to do that, but how do stop the pennies from falling out when you expand the spring the last bit to get the hook over, or do you remove the pivot bolts?

[Ozzydog]

What bike?

Jackal 2000 lovely lovely bike except for those damn footpegs 

[Ozzydog]

I take mine off the Norge every 20,000 k and I do it by leaving the spring/s on, and taking out the left hand bolt first.
That lets the stand move up towards the engine, and relaxes the tension on the spring/s. The pivots appreciate the grease...Also, while you've got it off, clean it properly, and pre emptively improve the weld on the cross piece, because...
Mine broke while I was on the way to Dover from London in 2014 and I nigh shat myself when I heard an unholy rattle coming from underneath the bike, I did the trip without one, (a right pain too I'll attest..)
Also, if that weld let's go, on the cross piece as you're hauling it up on the stand, the whole shooting match is likely to go arse up! I put a slightly larger diameter piece of tube on mine with decent gauge.
Just sayin'...

Thanks for that, very helpful
A

[rodekyll]

I prefer floorboards, too.

Get the bike high enough that the center stand doesn't touch the ground when deployed.
loosen the transmission through bolt
remove the two pivot bolts
Swing and pull the stand backwards while levering down at the forward point.

When reassembling, attach the springs to the lugs on both the stand and the bike.  Use zip ties to hold them there.  Once it's in place it will about hold itself.
lever everything back up and pop in the pivot bolts.

[Huzo]

I prefer floorboards, too.

Get the bike high enough that the center stand doesn't touch the ground when deployed.
loosen the transmission through bolt
remove the two pivot bolts
Swing and pull the stand backwards while levering down at the forward point.

When reassembling, attach the springs to the lugs on both the stand and the bike.  Use zip ties to hold them there.  Once it's in place it will about hold itself.
lever everything back up and pop in the pivot bolts.

Sweet !!!

[Huzo]

Thanks for that, very helpful
A

No worries!
But Rodekyll's explanation is likely to be better since it pertains to your specific bike.
Do check the weld though, mine had no stress on it when it broke, just fatigue induced failure!

[jas67]

That's clever, I never thought to do that, but how do stop the pennies from falling out when you expand the spring the last bit to get the hook over, or do you remove the pivot bolts?

Maybe washers instead of pennies and a long bolt or even a nail through the middle of the spring?

[Huzo]

Maybe washers instead of pennies and a long bolt or even a nail through the middle of the spring?

Ok. still clever.

[guzzisteve]

I do it like RK explains. I still have in my box a drum brake spring tool which works w/o a hitch.

[lorazepam]

I use one of these.

[Mike Tashjian]

And another way I ran into is a variant of RK's,  using a ratchet strap. Wrap the strap to the stand and rear tire. Attach springs and pull the stand back.  Used this method on My Honda CTX and it was very easy to do.  Mike

[Huzo]

And another way I ran into is a variant of RK's,  using a ratchet strap. Wrap the strap to the stand and rear tire. Attach springs and pull the stand back.  Used this method on My Honda CTX and it was very easy to do.  Mike

Shit!
Never thought of that either...( I'll have to take a course on lateral thinking!)

[Ozzydog]

Big Ups and thanks to everyone who read my post and chipped in. I truly love the Guzzi community.
So in the end, I admit I like leverage and making a hard job easy. I visited my local mr tool man and bought a fairly cheap pair of needle nose (ish) vice grip pliers. I put the needle nose up into the spring and clamped them closed and using a big cheater bar against the frame and eased the springs back and rolled them off the posts. Pretty effortless, but I'm not crowing until later in the weekend when I reverse the process successfully ! :-)
Fun Times ( even with skinned knuckles)
Andy

[Huzo]

Big Ups and thanks to everyone who read my post and chipped in. I truly love the Guzzi community.
So in the end, I admit I like leverage and making a hard job easy. I visited my local mr tool man and bought a fairly cheap pair of needle nose (ish) vice grip pliers. I put the needle nose up into the spring and clamped them closed and using a big cheater bar against the frame and eased the springs back and rolled them off the posts. Pretty effortless, but I'm not crowing until later in the weekend when I reverse the process successfully ! :-)
Fun Times ( even with skinned knuckles)
Andy

Everything is easier if you have a scissor lift.
You'll be able to afford it with the money you save on band aids.
BTW... (Guzzi mob love you too)

[Ozzydog]

G'day and thanks again to everyone who offered support, advice, moral guidance or a sense of purpose. Tis done. Swapping the bottom rails from a 1982 SP1000 onto a 2000 Jackal and using (I think )G5 footpeg hangers. (see pics).
Getting the springs back on the main stand was in the end fairly easy. As Huzo advises earlier, everything is easier when you have a scissor lift, and I do have one of the Chinese cheapies. Its needed some work from time to time and it won't last forever but then again, neither will I!  One of us steadied the bike on the lift while another, using needle nose locking pliers inserted just into the first 4 or so coils of the spring, pulled the spring backwards and eased the 'loop' onto the stay. Done.

There's more to the story than that, but the end result is just great. Moving my feet just those few inches backwards brings my legs back into the riding equation. My experience in the last couple of years ( as I age??) was that all of my weight was "unsupported' on the seat and I was kinda slumped. I'm used to legs working with steering and suspension duties and its great to be getting back into that riding position , and still on a bike I adore! Win Win!

I may still change bars, tank, seat etc (as per 1100S replica style), but jees, so far I could'nt be happier with trying to make my bike fit me! Wadda ya reckon, (see below)

Cheers. Andy







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