toaster404's California 1400 thread - questions and observations

[toaster404]

After poking around I note that the California 1400 purportedly uses a Tenneco-Marzocchi fork. http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/between-lines-moto-guzzi-gives-us-new-california  A custom suspension shop indicated this is a sealed cartridge fork. 

I find the front end jarring at Interstate speed and generally more rough than I anticipated. 

If the fork is as above, I was wondering whether perhaps there was too much oil in the forks.  If that is not the source of the relative harshness, then I was considering that less viscous hydraulic fluid might provide a bit more compliance. 

If not, suggestions?

I do find it better with the bike loaded up with two people, but that is not what I generally do, and would fit a solo saddle with backrest and long rack, were it up to me to design these things!

Thank you very much.

[oldbike54]

 Tire pressure to high ?
 
 So... do you own a beemer with 404 Dunlops installed ?

  Dusty

[mtiberio]

I think it is sachs, and not sealed, but it is complex and supposedly requires special tools. you could do a partial oil change. pull the top cap, invert, pump, and drain what you can. Measure it, then replace it with lighter oil.

[toaster404]

Tire pressure to high ?
 
 So... do you own a beemer with 404 Dunlops installed ?

  Dusty

Thought I posted this.  Anyway, running 36/39 as recommended.  Feels tire firm, but I'm not getting the hard edge, bouncy overinflated ride. 

Beemer is a car.  I didn't like 404s on the last bike.  Commander II worked infinitely better.

I'm still trying to learn how to run the instrument cluster.  Confused manual.

[oldbike54]

Thought I posted this.  Anyway, running 36/39 as recommended.  Feels tire firm, but I'm not getting the hard edge, bouncy overinflated ride. 

Beemer is a car.  I didn't like 404s on the last bike.  Commander II worked infinitely better.

I'm still trying to learn how to run the instrument cluster.  Confused manual.

 Didn't care for them either on a /5 . Just trying to decipher your nom de plume .

  Dusty

[toaster404]

At 500 miles my Cali touring appears to be settling in.

Suspension has smoothed a bit and I'm no longer getting sticktion in the fork.  Is this a real effect?

Suspension - most reasonable upgrades.  Smoother ride, but without diving or wobbling during more brisk stages.  I have not been able to discern exactly what innards lie within the fork tubes.

Mixture:  With 93 octane, the engine settles out better.  Still does not feel sufficiently rich.  Adjustment feasible?  If not, what one piece works the best, especially at lower rpm.

Mileage:  Are these typical?  At 55 mph on cruise control I appear to be getting 5.2 L/100km = 45 mpg.  At 45 on cruise I appear to get low 50s.  This seems better than I anticipated.  My trip back from Nashville managed to be 37 mpg, but was higher speed Interstate plus zero miles engine. 

Lubricants:  I hesitate to even mention such things.  On my previous water-cooled bikes I used Rotella until the formula changed, now I use Repsol petroleum based.   This 1400 with high temperatures in the engine and separate gearbox oil has me pondering the best choices.  I could just research like mad, but I suspect someone has done that and field tested.

Engine I was thinking a synthetic 10W60, perhaps Redline or similar.
Gear box, redline.

However, I am out of the oil discussion for a bit and there may be good Advance or Autozone or BMW shop alternatives.

Anyone made tunnel or other nifty lowers for the 1400?

Thanks all.

[segesta]

Oil - I use Eni 'I-Drive' synthetic 10W60.
Fuel - the USA owner's manual recommends 90 octane or above (ie, the average of the NOMM and NORM octanes)
Mileage - I never cared; it's a motorcycle, not a pickup truck.
Suspension - the ride has been killing my back lately, so I dialed the shocks as soft as they would go to see what would happen. Still no luck, so it must be my riding position. Anyway, let us know how your adjustments go. Dumb point: make sure your tires are properly inflated. It's amazing what a difference that can make.

[mtiberio]

I'm going to sound like Lannis here (heaven help me). Put what the book says into the thing... And yes, the motor and suspension do loosen up, and the motor/trans continues to loosen up for 5K or 10K miles.

[Vasco DG]

At 500 miles my Cali touring appears to be settling in.

Suspension has smoothed a bit and I'm no longer getting sticktion in the fork.  Is this a real effect?

Suspension - most reasonable upgrades.  Smoother ride, but without diving or wobbling during more brisk stages.  I have not been able to discern exactly what innards lie within the fork tubes.

Mixture:  With 93 octane, the engine settles out better.  Still does not feel sufficiently rich.  Adjustment feasible?  If not, what one piece works the best, especially at lower rpm.

Mileage:  Are these typical?  At 55 mph on cruise control I appear to be getting 5.2 L/100km = 45 mpg.  At 45 on cruise I appear to get low 50s.  This seems better than I anticipated.  My trip back from Nashville managed to be 37 mpg, but was higher speed Interstate plus zero miles engine. 

Lubricants:  I hesitate to even mention such things.  On my previous water-cooled bikes I used Rotella until the formula changed, now I use Repsol petroleum based.   This 1400 with high temperatures in the engine and separate gearbox oil has me pondering the best choices.  I could just research like mad, but I suspect someone has done that and field tested.

Engine I was thinking a synthetic 10W60, perhaps Redline or similar.
Gear box, redline.

However, I am out of the oil discussion for a bit and there may be good Advance or Autozone or BMW shop alternatives.

Anyone made tunnel or other nifty lowers for the 1400?

Thanks all.

How are you establishing that it's running lean and at what throttle and RPM point? At the moment I believe that only Rexxer have the wherewithal to upload and modify mapping and I don't know how one would approach modifying the 7SM Trimap as I don't know if the correction tables would be shared, separate or a mixture of both.

As for a 'one piece' what are we talking about? A ladies swimsuit?

Pete

[toaster404]

To further explain:

I have ridden bikes and driven cars that were nicely compliant without being plush, but that once loaded a little, for example, in a turn hard or upon somewhat larger excursion than the standard bump came up firmly and securely.  Just the ticket for a sporty touring bike.  I would prefer that.

On the lean, I am highly familiar with the feel of lean v. rich and have spent much time looking for the best compromise for street machines and the highest possible output with not so street machines.  On the 1400, I would be bumping up a CV carb pilot jet a size, putting in a different needle or popping the existing up one notch, and wondering whether I would be happy with one main jet up.  From relatively low rpm, the engine clearly wants to pull and bogs.  At stead 2500 there's a lack of pull and slight hunting.  It's in the marginally acceptable domain of mixtures.  I suspect that it's set for low emissions. 

As to "one piece" - I am sure I can find three ways at least to adjust the mixture using various units and so on.  My friends tell me they generally use a "power commander" - which is one piece. 

I don't need the optimal output for racing or anything, but the bogging at lower (below 3000) rpm without the grunt the engine clearly wants to give makes the machine more difficult to ride in twisties at modest rpm. 

As to lubricants, the specifications given that I have located (not exactly user friendly) are for 10W60 of good quality.  That leaves a certain amount of leeway.  Different machines like different brands of lubricant, thus my question.   I tend to put synthetics in high temperature engines and in gear boxes / rear ends.  Have worked better for me, at least in automobiles based on oil analysis (the nice synthetics seem to reduce wear indicated by metal content) and in motorcycle rear ends, as judged by distinctly lower operating temperatures.  I note that BMW motorcycles spec 10W60 and I might well be able to pick up whatever is stocked at the dealer for BMW.  I believe there's a nice castrol product with those viscosities, but I will have to look into it.

On tire pressures, I have not run a 10/20 test, but will eventually do so.  The front at 36 would ideally go up about 3.6 lbs at temperature, so I would be looking for a 39 to 40 lb pressure at hard operating temperature.  I generally use the "Dragon" for such tests because it is handy and I get almost continuous curves.  The rear tire (the "20") at 39 would rise 3.9 lbs to 42.9.  If the tires don't rise that much, I leave them alone.  Reluctant to go below manufacturer spec.  This has never been the case for me.  I have generally ended up a few lbs more air, and getting better mileage.

My home made test lowers did very well.  I am still getting a little helmet buffeting, but by pushing the windshield out 1.5 cm and adding lowers I got the transition zone buffeting from the top of my visor to the top of the helmet.  The flow up around the front and side of the tank is substantially reduced by the small lowers.   The laminar lip will raise the transition zone another 2" most likely (that seems what they do) at least, and reduce the power of the turbulence.  I am considering partial pipe or tunnel lowers.  Both are very effective. 

Thank you
I am also looking at the square gap between the fork columns left and right, and the triple trees up and down.  I might have a piece of lexan or similar that I could mount in there, see whether I reduce or increase adverse flow.

Our first real excursion is likely to be this week, possibly over to Deals Gap Motorcycle Resort for breakfast.  She already took her VStar 250 over there, and now I have the gearing better for her.  I have not taken the 1400 over, and am looking forward to it very much.

[lucian]

A ladies swimsuit ? 


Man that might work. But first grease up with some 10 60 something.

[tiger_one]

Just to muddy the waters some, my griso was retarded in that zone below 3800 rpm and was really flat.  It needed no fuel, just more advance.  I reckon PCV will allow you to change the advance also, I'm not familiar with the addons tho.

[Vasco DG]

As long as the Lamda is switched on it is going to continue to aim for the target AFR and lamda of zero. You can futz about with any add-ons you like, they won't make a ha'pence of difference.

Cali 14 is also RBW and uses spark to control idle. Outer plug also only fires to some limited point (4,000RPM?) the opportunities for someone to screw up spectacularly and stuff things up completely are legion!

Pete

[Waltr]

As long as the Lamda is switched on it is going to continue to aim for the target AFR and lamda of zero. You can futz about with any add-ons you like, they won't make a ha'pence of difference.

Cali 14 is also RBW and uses spark to control idle. Outer plug also only fires to some limited point (4,000RPM?) the opportunities for someone to screw up spectacularly and stuff things up completely are legion!

Pete

Amen!  Don't get a Power Commander.  Ride the shit out of it and brake it in.  The bike has not even begun to loosen up.  Fight the temptation to screw with it.  If you have to do something do better suspension.

[toaster404]

Good deal - Riding it in I can do.  Suspension and engine always come in fairly quickly because of the numerous turns, climbs, etc.  Highly varying temperature, working through the gears constantly, changing altitude. 

My interest in the lubricants is for that first service.  I found good stuff here, so I think I'm set.

Thanks all.

[Vasco DG]

The 1400 motor is actually far more like a 'Water Cooled' motor than the 1200 motor. The head castings are substantially deeper to accomodate large, cast in cooling chambers around the valves rather than the simple drilled passageways used on the 1200 heads. This becomes obvious when one looks at the spark plugs which have an enormously long reach. A couple of inches or so!

It's for this reason that using a fully man made 100% ester based oil is so vital. The oil gets bloody hot! A mineral lube won't take the heat.

Pete

[toaster404]

Nobody is going to mess with my bike.  I want to turn the alarm off completely.  The instructions give all kinds of options, but not to turn the silly thing off.  Anyone know how?

Thanks much

2014 Cali 1400

[Vasco DG]

It's doable. Buggered if I can remember how?

[ibis1]

You should have gotten a jumper lead to install which bypasses the anti-theft system. It is intended for emergencies so you are not stranded, but you can leave it connected all the time. If you don't have it, post and we can explain how to do it.

[rtbickel]

Somebody posted this when the 1400s first hit the showrooms.  It does take a couple of tries to get it right.



I finally figured it out and have reprogrammed the alarm so it does not automatically arm! I can still arm it manually when I want to, but no more annoying button pushing every time I start it. Here's how (it only took 6 tries to get it right):

1. Start the engine, then shut it off. Set the manual alarm by pushing the key fob button within a few seconds of shut down. The system is now fully armed.
2. Immediately after arming it (the book says within 10 seconds) turn the key on, the alarm will beep once.
3. Push the arming button on the key fob 4 times. The bike will make a sound you never heard before (the book calls it a Boop) 4 times. This confirms that you did it right. If you don't hear 4 Boops, start over again.
4. Turn the key Off. The system is now ready for reprogramming.
5. Turn the key on then off 7 times and then one more time ON (a total of 8 turn-ons). The LED on the side panel (the "real" alarm indicator) should be on.
6. Press the key fob arming button twice. You should hear the weird Boop noise again, confirming the action.
7. Turn the ignition Off and then press the key fob button one last time to exit reprogramming mode.

The red blinker on the dash will continue to blink (it's a decoy and has nothing to do with the actual alarm system), but the Real alarm LED, on the front of the left side panel, will remain off. The alarm will now NOT automatically set. However, if you want to set the full alarm, just use the button.

There are other things you can do, depending on how many times you turn the ignition key on and off. For instance, you can make it so the passive arming also enables the movement sensor (6 on- 5 off cycles) or so that the turn signals don't flash when arming and disarming (2 cycles). A couple of the things on the list I don't understand. The full description is on page 14 of the Alarm manual (for English).

[HDGoose]

Somebody posted this when the 1400s first hit the showrooms.  It does take a couple of tries to get it right.



I finally figured it out and have reprogrammed the alarm so it does not automatically arm! I can still arm it manually when I want to, but no more annoying button pushing every time I start it. Here's how (it only took 6 tries to get it right):

1. Start the engine, then shut it off. Set the manual alarm by pushing the key fob button within a few seconds of shut down. The system is now fully armed.
2. Immediately after arming it (the book says within 10 seconds) turn the key on, the alarm will beep once.
3. Push the arming button on the key fob 4 times. The bike will make a sound you never heard before (the book calls it a Boop) 4 times. This confirms that you did it right. If you don't hear 4 Boops, start over again.
4. Turn the key Off. The system is now ready for reprogramming.
5. Turn the key on then off 7 times and then one more time ON (a total of 8 turn-ons). The LED on the side panel (the "real" alarm indicator) should be on.
6. Press the key fob arming button twice. You should hear the weird Boop noise again, confirming the action.
7. Turn the ignition Off and then press the key fob button one last time to exit reprogramming mode.

The red blinker on the dash will continue to blink (it's a decoy and has nothing to do with the actual alarm system), but the Real alarm LED, on the front of the left side panel, will remain off. The alarm will now NOT automatically set. However, if you want to set the full alarm, just use the button.

There are other things you can do, depending on how many times you turn the ignition key on and off. For instance, you can make it so the passive arming also enables the movement sensor (6 on- 5 off cycles) or so that the turn signals don't flash when arming and disarming (2 cycles). A couple of the things on the list I don't understand. The full description is on page 14 of the Alarm manual (for English).

This needs to be a sticky.

[toaster404]

You should have gotten a jumper lead to install which bypasses the anti-theft system. It is intended for emergencies so you are not stranded, but you can leave it connected all the time. If you don't have it, post and we can explain how to do it.

Wow, love the instructions.  I have a jumper.  Wonder where it goes.  I'll have a look in the manual(s). 

Also got a laminar lip - will post how well that works.

[toaster404]

I wish to get a reusable stainless filter for my Cali 1400.  I don't really wish to debate the matter; the key is that the stainless give very nicely uniform filtration while the specs on the paper provide the finest, with them generally allowing a larger maximum size particle.  I see such filters indicated "Moto Guzzi" without any indication of model. 

Thank you for any assistance.

[rocker59]

Do all MG use the same oil filter?

No.

[kirb]

Some filters-
on=1&keyword=ufi+oil+filter&x=0&y=0" class="bbc_link" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_descripti on=1&keyword=ufi+oil+filter&x=0&y=0

[Vasco DG]

For the benefit of anybody else reading this thread I would strongly recommend against using a re-useable filter, especially on any model with roller tappets.

Pete

[charlie b]

So, for the older big blocks are the choices limited to the UFI 2314900 and HiFlo552 or is there another brand out there that fits.

[rocker59]

So, for the older big blocks are the choices limited to the UFI 2314900 and HiFlo552 or is there another brand out there that fits.

Mobil-1 M-102 is what I use on my 1100cc bikes.

[toaster404]

For the benefit of anybody else reading this thread I would strongly recommend against using a re-useable filter, especially on any model with roller tappets.

Pete

What is the rationale?  My understanding is that paper filters generally let through a certain amount of substantially larger particles than specified, and that screen filters are much more effective at maintaining an upper limit to particle size. 

Long ago we would use a screen filter and a bypass filter containing a roll of toilet paper.  I don't remember the name of the system. For trucks & autos.  Seemed very effective.

Really, a nicely designed and documented study would be nice to read.  Got a ref?

[Vasco DG]

The rationale was covered in another thread recently. I can't be bothered repeating it.

Also the Cali 14 and post 2014 1200's use a different, shorter, filter than earlier models. While one of these washable jokes may well mount OK it will almost certainly protrude further beneath the sump than the stock filter. Especially on a Cali this may in certain circumstances risk it catching on something, speed humps, gutters, road debris etc.