Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: n3303j on September 14, 2018, 11:15:20 PM
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Been riding this critter for about 90K miles so far. It's my favorite ever bike.
....except every 30K miles the clutch starts dragging when slipping in stop & go traffic. Neutral sometimes is impossible when idling at stops and sometimes there is enough drag to stall the engine.
My usual solution was pull the engine. Clean everything. Replace the notched input splines and once the flywheel.
I'm getting pretty tired of doing this every couple of years!
Is there an easier solution? Better parts? Different parts? I've heard of flushing the housing while engine is running but that sounded dangerous (naphtha was recommended flammable solvent).
If not, then she becomes parts & pieces yet again...
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Balance the carburettors carefully and regularly, don't set the idle too low, (1100 is fine.) and don't sit at the lights in gear with the clutch engaged.
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Balance the carburettors carefully and regularly, don't set the idle too low, (1100 is fine.) and don't sit at the lights in gear with the clutch engaged.
I wouldn't ask out of cussedness Pete but I'm interested to know what your take is on the correlation between carby balance and dragging clutch.
I know there'll be a reason but I cannot get close to ascertaining what it might be.
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Out of balance carbs, (Or TB's) lead to an increase in the unevenness of the power pulses and therefore the acceleration and deceleration of the flywheel. That effect is also more pronounced the lower the idle speed. When the clutch is engaged that leads to the teeth of the plates knocking back and forward with greater force and speeds up damage to both plate splines and those in the boss and flywheel.
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Out of balance carbs, (Or TB's) lead to an increase in the unevenness of the power pulses and therefore the acceleration and deceleration of the flywheel. That effect is also more pronounced the lower the idle speed. When the clutch is engaged that leads to the teeth of the plates knocking back and forward with greater force and speeds up damage to both plate splines and those in the boss and flywheel.
Yep.. I knew it would make sense.
Wouldn'ta twigged to it though..
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Wat Pete sez. Never hold the clutch lever in for more than a few seconds. That's just one of the things you need to know about Guzzis.
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I'm going to throw in my two cents worth here, every older guzzi I have owned leaked a little gearbox oil down the clutch pushrod and contaminated the clutch causing the same problem. often times the leak wasn't so bad it left puddles under the bike. The six little o-ring conversion for the pushrod seal from Moto-International should be done on every guzzi .
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Don't lug it, keep the rpm above about 4K.
Whip up a fixture to check and fix alignment between engine and gearbox. Suspect this if it chews up clutches https://postimg.cc/image/5uk465lff/
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Don't lug it, keep the rpm above about 4K.
Whip up a fixture to check and fix alignment between engine and gearbox. Suspect this if it chews up clutches https://postimg.cc/image/5uk465lff/
Ewww, I downloaded the picture, and it's not legible. Can you post it some other way?
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Ewww, I downloaded the picture, and it's not legible. Can you post it some other way?
I have the same problem, it was posted the last time this topic rolled around and I just went back and found it to repost. Im hoping one of our smarter IT guys could fix it so we could make a paper copy. :embarrassed:
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Thanks Charlie!
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Until someone comes up with something better , I just took a picture with my stupid sell fone.. screen shot didn't work for me.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1887/44701889911_b88e8be957_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2b79StR)2018-09-15_05-27-00 (https://flic.kr/p/2b79StR) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
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Hi
I sometimes get this happen to me. Have you tweaked the adjuster under the bike?
I find it is easiest to lie along the gear change (L/H) side and it is above the centre stand cross-over.
A bit of a fiddle to get access - open ended spanner and I made up a notched 'tool' to adjust. It's a bit like adjusting tappets.
Takes all of two minutes and nothing to lose if it is not your problem.
Cheers
Jason
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I was kind of hoping someone would say they had the wearing parts cryogenically heat treated to reduce wear. Or maybe there was another source for alternate parts that were more durable. Or maybe even a single disk option that retained the characteristics of the stock setup.
I do idle up around 1.1K and sync relatively often. Happy cruising between 4K & 5K. It's a sweet spot.
My '66 BMW /2 went 100,000 miles with no clutch issues whatsoever. My V11 has 57,000 and no problems. Heck my Ural has 80,000 KM and no clutch issues and that's an RPOC.
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You could put in a ten spring out of a Sport or LeMans. I use one with Barnett springs on a heavy sidecar Bassa. If it's out of alignment, even that will be a waste of time.
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I have the same problem, it was posted the last time this topic rolled around and I just went back and found it to repost. Im hoping one of our smarter IT guys could fix it so we could make a paper copy. :embarrassed:
Paging Unkept. Mr. Unkept to the courtesey phone, please.. :smiley:
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Paging Unkept. Mr. Unkept to the courtesey phone, please.. :smiley:
(https://thumb.ibb.co/kF8eNK/guzzi_alignment_tool.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kF8eNK)
Converted to JPEG, does that help?
Can't seem to read the small text in the source image.
I'm in St Louis with just my cellphone and no computer... Hope this was what you were looking for.
Here's the direct download. https://image.ibb.co/hAwYhK/guzzi_alignment_tool.jpg (https://image.ibb.co/hAwYhK/guzzi_alignment_tool.jpg)
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Well, almost. All the dimensions aren't there. :grin:
Thanks, though..
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Well, almost. All the dimensions aren't there. :grin:
Thanks, though..
I see all the dimensions. I don't see any tolerances.
I'm not sure how this gauge is used??
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I see all the dimensions. I don't see any tolerances.
I'm not sure how this gauge is used??
I also have been looking at this with interest and for the life of me can not figure out how it is used. Would not the thing be buried by the bell housing so you can't see what is going on? Got to be something simple that is beyond my normally foggy thinking.
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I also have been looking at this with interest and for the life of me can not figure out how it is used. Would not the thing be buried by the bell housing so you can't see what is going on? Got to be something simple that is beyond my normally foggy thinking.
It's basically a "go/no go" fixture - it's bolted to the crankshaft, and the transmission is then fitted to the engine. If the alignment is off, then the clutch hub won't fit into the fixture. More information and an alternative here:
http://thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_alignment.html
I like Greg's method better.
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Bob told me that to use his fixture, you pull the alignment dowels and slip the transmission onto the fixture and engine, then fabricate offset dowels to position the transmission in that position. I like Gregs method too, but what t did was take a scrap flywheel and weld a block to it, then accurately bore a hole in that for a slip fit onto the outside of the transmission input. Then it's sturdy enough for some monkey motion getting the dowels indexed.
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Thanks guys for "how too use" explanation. :thumb:
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If you've not done so already, convert the clutch to a deep spline set up off of the later Tonti bikes (mid 90's I believe). The MI Oring set up previously mentioned will help as well.