Cali drive shaft coupling

[Mr Revhead]

Took the bevel drive and swing arm off the other day. Looks like someone forgot some grease!! 
https://goo.gl/photos/FeHgB77e7zvQiXpR7

https://goo.gl/photos/P2zXNTGsRRUAj5Ji8

Looks like i'm lucky with no wear. However that coupling is stuck on the shaft.

Before I start getting creative with my techniques I want to be sure I have this right:
https://www.harpermoto.com/images/pl/2000/california%20stone-touring-pl-cat-1100%202003-2004/images/frame-transmission-complete-i.jpg

12 is a press fit into 14, which in turn is a press fit into the swing arm. So that assembly comes out forwards.
7 should slide off nicely out the back?

Currently spraying penetrating fluid up the shaft which I'm keeping vertical so it can run down the splines and hopefully free it up 

[Tom H]

Your right on the parts diagram on how it comes apart. I can figure out how to get it apart, how do you get it pressed back together with the U joints?

 
Tom

[Mr Revhead]

I'm not removing the U/J's or bearing, they are fine. I want to free up and lube the coupling. So just making sure I have the right idea with how it goes together to make sure I don't bugger something.
I wonder if Guzzi will still honour the warranty  :Beating_A_Dead_Hors e_by_liviu

[rodekyll]

The bearing and shaft should not need any presswork.  Firm but gentle persuasion should do.

#2 in the diagram is a grub screw.  It holds the carrier bearing in place.  That's why it's not a press fit.  Find it, remove it, and drive the entire driveshaft/coupler and bearing out the front.  Then you can heat the coupler and knock it off the splines.

[Wayne Orwig]

The coupler, #12, should slide right off the back of the driveshaft.
I have had it freeze onto the back of my 2004 EV a few times. I soak it for DAYS in penetrating oil. I made a hook that I hook onto it. And I try to get it hot. It takes a lot of work but it eventually comes out.

I have yet to find a grease that stays in place and prevents rust.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I have yet to find a grease that stays in place and prevents rust.

Someone told me that the grease Honda use on their splines is pretty good

[Madtownguzzi]

From the boating world works great.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sierra--sierra-spline-grease--418097

[Mr Revhead]

Totally missed that grub screw!! Thanks for that! See that's why you ask before using hammers 

I have the moly grease Honda use for my CX500. It's for splines and high pressure/shear use. So I'll use that. It's quite thick and sticky
Thanks guys!

[Wayne Orwig]

Totally missed that grub screw!! Thanks for that! See that's why you ask before using hammers 

I have the moly grease Honda use for my CX500. It's for splines and high pressure/shear use. So I'll use that. It's quite thick and sticky
Thanks guys!

If you mean the Honda Moly 60 paste, it doesn't do a thing to slow the rust. I didn't have much luck with it alone.

[Chuck in Indiana]

If you mean the Honda Moly 60 paste, it doesn't do a thing to slow the rust. I didn't have much luck with it alone.

I tried the Honda moly 60 also. It was gone shortly thereafter. I've been using Wurth for 20 years, and it's always there. Never have had a rust problem.
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=1914

[Mr Revhead]

Hmmm I'll have to have a dig around then. Wurth is extremely over priced here.
Sounds like this spline should be lubed every Tyre change or yearly

[Mr Revhead]

The coupler, #12, should slide right off the back of the driveshaft.
I have had it freeze onto the back of my 2004 EV a few times. I soak it for DAYS in penetrating oil. I made a hook that I hook onto it. And I try to get it hot. It takes a lot of work but it eventually comes out.

I have yet to find a grease that stays in place and prevents rust.

Bang on. Well, I banged on it with a section of broom handle as a drift. Out it came! The u/js and bearing feel fine so it'll go back in again. After I've cleaned the gunk out of it. Gearbox out put was leaking