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General Category => Bike Builds, Rebuilds And Restorations Only => Topic started by: Psychopasta on May 29, 2017, 01:32:37 PM

Title: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on May 29, 2017, 01:32:37 PM
Hey guys,

I thought I should start giving back to the forum after asking so many questions here. Many years ago...2010 I think...I came across a very tatty and tired old V50 Monza that I decided to rebuild as a cafe racer. I started a blog that described the teardown and rebuild here: http://v50monzarebuild.blogspot.com/ (http://v50monzarebuild.blogspot.com/)

However, work, family and other bikes got in the way and I have not done much work on it since around 2013. However, I'm now back on it, and have done a bunch of work that I did not document. So, these photos show the current state of build, and I'll update this topic as I get work done...honest!

- Pasta
(http://thumb.ibb.co/gNwFDF/6.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gNwFDF) (http://thumb.ibb.co/kLNoYF/7.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kLNoYF) (http://thumb.ibb.co/m8CBna/8.jpg) (http://ibb.co/m8CBna) (http://thumb.ibb.co/mdCi0v/9.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mdCi0v) (http://thumb.ibb.co/d4iCtF/10.jpg) (http://ibb.co/d4iCtF) (http://thumb.ibb.co/k19Vfv/1.jpg) (http://ibb.co/k19Vfv) (http://thumb.ibb.co/kvz7Sa/2.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kvz7Sa) (http://thumb.ibb.co/gwYZ7a/3.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gwYZ7a) (http://thumb.ibb.co/i8VE7a/4.jpg) (http://ibb.co/i8VE7a) (http://thumb.ibb.co/mrKkDF/5.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mrKkDF)
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: twowings on May 29, 2017, 01:35:06 PM
That is a little jewel!! Nice job... :thumb:
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: canuck750 on May 29, 2017, 10:39:48 PM
Very nice!
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: SED on May 30, 2017, 09:03:31 PM
Let's see more!
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: pjontian on May 31, 2017, 05:32:28 AM
Everything looks great. I like the color combination.
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on May 31, 2017, 12:25:33 PM
If I was doing it again, the thing I wouldn't do is paint the cylinder heads orange. But, that's easily taken care of in the wintertime if I want to. One of the things I've always loved about Guzzis is how easy it is to strip the engine with the rest of the bike fully assembled
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on June 04, 2017, 11:52:11 PM
I've decided to unlink the front and rear brakes, as I'm really comfortable with unlinked brakes now and don't want to have one bike where my reflexes need to be different. I'm also using the Frentubo brake line set for the Monza. This means that I need a coupling piece to convert the LHS connector to a banjo bolt:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/eqDetF/IMG_1313_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/eqDetF)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/c98q0v/IMG_1312_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/c98q0v)


I also decided to fit a Nissin front master cylinder with 14mm bore to drive the two calipers. Coupling was pretty straightforward:
(http://thumb.ibb.co/gY6ona/IMG_1314_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gY6ona)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/mKNiLv/IMG_1315_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mKNiLv)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/iFxuSa/IMG_1316_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/iFxuSa)


Anyone got any comments on this? Anything I should be aware of from previous unlinkings?

Also, the Stainless Steel line is great, but its quite resistant to the twisting action needed to make the banjo bolts fit the top master cylinder and have the bottom couplers fit into the calipers. Is there any way to relax the SS lines and get them less twisted? It's less than a half turn of course, but it affects how the brake lines lie at rest.

- Pasta


Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on June 18, 2017, 09:27:08 PM
Well, I got onto the carbs. Cleaned up and rebuilt using the DellOrto gasket kit. Not much to report on that.

BUT, I just got some K&N filters for them, and I'm not totally impressed. Although they claim to be the right size for the V50, maybe the Monza has larger carbs, because fitting them was a pain:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/cJ1Qv5/IMG_1346.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cJ1Qv5)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/b8oS8Q/IMG_1344.jpg) (http://ibb.co/b8oS8Q)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/mfLJF5/IMG_1345.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mfLJF5)


You can see the bulge where they 'fit', and the hose clamp it comes with will not fit, so I had to use other ones. Worse, they only just fit on the bike:



(http://thumb.ibb.co/mBW8F5/IMG_1348.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mBW8F5)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/dyToF5/IMG_1347.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dyToF5)


I guess you could call it an interference fit. Has anyone done something more elegant on the Monza? And don't say fit the standard air box...elegant it ain't.  :boozing:

- Pasta
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on June 18, 2017, 09:38:25 PM
I also got some stuff done on the front end, and it's getting closer to final state.


(http://thumb.ibb.co/mJLPoQ/IMG_1341.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mJLPoQ)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/iSxXa5/IMG_1342.jpg) (http://ibb.co/iSxXa5)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/esaqTQ/IMG_1343.jpg) (http://ibb.co/esaqTQ)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/c56x8Q/IMG_1340.jpg) (http://ibb.co/c56x8Q)

upload image on internet (http://imgbb.com/)


I'm using a headlamp bracket from (I think) a V700, which has 35mm forks. I used a little shower sealing ribbon to make up a shim, so that the mounts bite cleanly. I found some fork gaiters on Amazon of all places, which are almost perfect. 33mm at the top, 50 and the bottom is finer, but 130 mm long is just a little short so it needs the host clamps to keep its pants up.

I'm using the instrument panel from MG Cycles, and some 32 mm fork clamps from Fast From the Past to mount it.


(http://thumb.ibb.co/jZQDhk/IMG_1349.jpg) (http://ibb.co/jZQDhk)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/hFmav5/IMG_1350.jpg) (http://ibb.co/hFmav5)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/kbyoF5/IMG_1351.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kbyoF5)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/ksFeNk/IMG_1352.jpg) (http://ibb.co/ksFeNk)

temporary picture sharing (http://imgbb.com/)
 

So far, so good.

- Pasta
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: SED on June 20, 2017, 12:09:35 AM
Cool updates.  Love the craftsmanship. May be irreverent, but the K&Ns have not worked for me - too small and the carbs sag on the rubber manifolds affecting float level.

Great work - keep the pictures coming!
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on June 20, 2017, 11:57:47 AM
Yep, I was disappointed by the K&Ns. What do you use?
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: antmanbee on June 20, 2017, 06:17:02 PM
I do this on all my Guzzis.  It worked well on my T3. It may work for the V50 also. You still utilize the velocity stacks that used to go into the airbox. Just cut out the end of an 8" UNI sock filter and put the internal filter spring over the ends of the stacks.



(http://thumb.ibb.co/hxCvyQ/IMG_0514.jpg) (http://ibb.co/hxCvyQ)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/cYgYk5/IMG_0506.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cYgYk5)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/c5vtk5/IMG_0507.jpg) (http://ibb.co/c5vtk5)

free image cdn (http://imgbb.com/)
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: SED on June 21, 2017, 12:00:36 PM
Yep, I was disappointed by the K&Ns. What do you use?

I've always used the stock airbox on the smallblock with both the V50 and V65 engines.  The problems I've had were with the bigblock 850 and now it has a stock airbox too. The V65 airbox seems to be a tighter fit and distorts with age, but seems to accumulate less oil vapor than the Monza airbox.  Monza airfilter is perhaps, slightly easier to change than V65 version.
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on June 21, 2017, 09:07:44 PM
I'm going to rewire the bike using MotoGadget's M-Unit Blue. It turned up today (I'm not quite ready for it) and here it is next to a Dyna ignition coil for size reference:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/kydv05/IMG_1364.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kydv05)

full size image hosting (http://imgbb.com/)


it is quite the marvel of modern engineering. It takes in all the control signals from the handlebar controls and brake switches on the lower connectors, and outputs all the control signals on the top connectors. It has built-in short protection, can drive starters directly (though the Bosch design used by Guzzi has its own solenoid), it can power a big horn like the Stebel Nautilus, etc etc. It also does brake light modulation and lots of tricks like that. It ALSO has an alarm, and if you use the Bluetooth capability to pair it to your phone it can let you know if it goes off (though if you use a Stebel Nautilus you'll probably find out the traditional way). It is totally cool!

Can't wait to rewire the Guzzi with it. I've always felt that Guzzi used great electric components, but then messed up with the nastiest wiring and switchgear imaginable. I'm hoping this will be Better Than New  :boozing:

- Pasta

Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Chuck in Indiana on June 22, 2017, 02:21:23 PM
Nice work.. :thumb: thanks.
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on June 23, 2017, 12:29:59 AM
Sooo...in one of Chuck's threads he talks about trying to do something every day. As the wife was out down the pub with her boozy mates tonight, and I received the Tomasselli Daytona throttle, I snuck down to the garage to give it a go.

I don't want to use black grips, so the first thing to do was to remove the old grip. I tried as hard as I could, but could not get it off without doing it some damage. So I sliced along the length in an unobtrusive place and peeled it off. I doubt I'll ever use it, but it could be pressed back into service if needed.

Anyway, fitting the grip I wanted was a tougher job than I thought. I started off using a little 'personal lubricant' (you know it, the stuff that's so good they named the whole damn state of Kentucky after it) but that only got it so far:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/gchsV5/IMG_1366.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gchsV5)
 

We've all had this problem at some time, I'm sure. Boil up some water and pour into a mug, and let the grip stand for a while:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/etuZck/IMG_1365.jpg) (http://ibb.co/etuZck)


Then hold the grip in a towel (it's damn hot) and thump it down on a table with a soft rag on it. Do it really hard, but you don't want to break the plastic molding that takes the throttle cables. It reminded me of the days of my youth, with the original Thor comics, with Dr. Don Bannon thumping his stick on the ground to transform into the Mighty Thor. Anyway, it worked:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/noAqHk/IMG_1371.jpg) (http://ibb.co/noAqHk)


Success my lord!

Then, and for no particular reason, I realized why the left handlebar didn't look right:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/dBj0Hk/IMG_1372.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dBj0Hk)




Sometimes I am such a doofus I amaze myself. I had placed the handlebar switch on the wrong side of the clutch lever! I've had it like that for something like six months. I always thought there was something not quite right about it...

Anyway, by doing it right I realized that I now had enough space to use the switch I originally wanted to use (I'd had to buy a really slim one to fit the available space), so now I got the Left hand side set up correctly:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/ekeESk/IMG_1373.jpg) (http://ibb.co/ekeESk)

upload images (http://imgbb.com/)


The clutch lever fouls the Tarozzi clip on so that it can't be rotated through an arbitrary angle but only through a limited range. I can live with that for now. I then got both bars set up:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/mXUd3Q/IMG_1374.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mXUd3Q)


Then a bit of an adjust, but it will still be a while before she's out and riding, so there wasn't much point. But it made me happy:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/c5eBOQ/IMG_1377.jpg) (http://ibb.co/c5eBOQ)


Taking a final tip from Chuck I then declared it beer o'clock  :boozing:

- Pasta
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: canuck750 on June 23, 2017, 01:53:39 PM
Nice work! Thanks for sharing your progress.
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on June 25, 2017, 09:10:18 PM
First oil leak!

Not the engine mind, nor transmission neither. Neither has yet been filled with oil. Nope, it's the K&N filters! Hard to imagine, but I found two little pools of pink oil on the engine:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/jsChF5/IMG_1387.jpg) (http://ibb.co/jsChF5)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/kFgnhk/IMG_1388.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kFgnhk)


Quite impressive really. The filters are provided with a little sachet of filter oil, and instructions to lay a bead of oil along each filter fold, wait 20 minutes and then fill in any white space. I did this, and had some oil left over from each sachet, so I thought I'd done it right. But apparently I used too much  :drool:

Ho hum.

Pasta

 
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on June 25, 2017, 09:46:58 PM
OK, now onto the real work.

I bought a metal splashguard that replaces the plastic toolholder from http://radicalguzzi.com/an_einbauteile (http://radicalguzzi.com/an_einbauteile). As they are German, this is (a) very well made and (b) really cheap in USD because of the exchage rate. My goal is to use this as a mounting plate for all the electrics. Here is a rough layout:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/bwbOoQ/IMG_1380.jpg) (http://ibb.co/bwbOoQ)

anonymous picture share sites (http://imgbb.com/)


Clockwise from top left we have the horn (a Fiamm unit), the fuseholder, the m-Unit Blue and the rectifier/regulator from EuroMotoElectrics. This little plate replaces the plethora or regulators, rectifiers, flasher relays, and what have you from the original wiring loom. Here it is assembled:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/cxtm8Q/IMG_1382.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cxtm8Q)


and then mounted back in the bike:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/cAOxF5/IMG_1383.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cAOxF5)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/n0phhk/IMG_1385.jpg) (http://ibb.co/n0phhk)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/hU3KTQ/IMG_1386.jpg) (http://ibb.co/hU3KTQ)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/e32DoQ/IMG_1389.jpg) (http://ibb.co/e32DoQ)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/iZsDoQ/IMG_1390.jpg) (http://ibb.co/iZsDoQ)




When I take the splashguard off for painting, I think I'll move the reg/rect and the m-Unit up about an inch, but this is fine for now. Some might say that the electrics is a little exposed on this plate, and they're right. BUT, I don't see this bike being used for long distances or in the wet. The electronics get protection from the engine, seat, and the riders aversion to riding in the wet.

I also don't really go for this current fashion of making the electrics disappear. I think the electrics are as much a part of the bike as anything else. AND, the M-Unit has such pretty flashing LEDs, I want to show them off.

Next, you can see here how I'm routing the cables from the reg/rect:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/n0phhk/IMG_1385.jpg) (http://ibb.co/n0phhk)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/e32DoQ/IMG_1389.jpg) (http://ibb.co/e32DoQ)


The reg/rect has a wiring loom that breaks off into two separate looms. One goes to the battery, ground, and ignition switch. I took that loom and just wrapped it around itself for now and connected it to the battery and ground of the M-unit, so that everything except the starter motor and solenoid is behind the 30 A fuseholder. The rest of the loom goes off to the alternator:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/dOLoNk/IMG_1391.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dOLoNk)


(http://thumb.ibb.co/iuPhhk/IMG_1392.jpg) (http://ibb.co/iuPhhk)


The wiring couldn't me much easier. The three yellow connectors are on the three-phase return from the stator, and any of the connectors can be connected to any of the spades. The brown wire goes to the connector labelled DF, the black to D-, and there is one connection not used.

I put the alternator cover back on, with a new split grommet on the exit hole, and also brought the Dyna-S electronic ignition cable out as well. I used cable ties to hold the loom loosely to the frame without stressing it:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/n4ixF5/IMG_1401.jpg) (http://ibb.co/n4ixF5)


Then I laid a cable from the starter solenoid to the m-Unit, and ran the oil return hose to Curtis' little bottle thingy. The wiring will be pretty much invisible once the tank is on, and I'm pretty pleased with the overall effect:

(http://thumb.ibb.co/jAMdNk/IMG_1400.jpg) (http://ibb.co/jAMdNk)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/mEZMa5/IMG_1394.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mEZMa5)


(http://thumb.ibb.co/dHxw8Q/IMG_1393.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dHxw8Q)


Next step is to wire up the minimum necessary tp start the engine. But it's now Beer o'clock, as the Wise say.

- Pasta








Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Chuck in Indiana on June 26, 2017, 01:13:59 PM
Hasn't anybody told you the air nozzle trick for removing/installing grips?  :smiley: A pointed air nozzle stuck under the edge of the grip, a blast of air and push or pull, and bob's your uncle..
Nice job of documentation.  :thumb: It many times takes longer to do that than do the job.
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on June 26, 2017, 01:55:20 PM
I tried that, but couldn't get the nozzle far into the grip because of the plastic shield. Oh well.  :grin:
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Mayor_of_BBQ on June 29, 2017, 10:44:51 AM
Neat little monza! Just curious, if you broke it down to paint the frame and are replacing all the electrics with new mounting points... and no side covers... why not cut off all the mounting tabs?
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on June 29, 2017, 11:03:48 AM
Inexperience, that's why  :thumb: I had this idea to not modify anything irreversibly so that it could always be converted back to a full factory resto, but I don't think that will happen, ever. If I ever need to take the top frame off again to get to the tranny I'd be tempted to detab and repaint then.

- Pasta
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Diploman on July 13, 2017, 02:23:46 PM
Lovely work, Pasta!  (I can definitely relate to your work, because I just rolled out my own V50 II resto/mod/cafe.  Testing, tuning now.)

Your electrical makeover is very impressive - nice concept and great work!

Where did you source that gorgeous seat?  Buy, fabricate, modify?

I concur with nearly all of your modding decisions,  except perhaps the orange cylinders.  That's going to be a great looking bike!  Carry on!

Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on July 13, 2017, 03:21:38 PM
Thank you very much!

Having seen what Canuck has done with vapor blasting, I wish I had vapor blasted instead of painting. If I could do it all over again, that's the part I'd re-do, especially the cylinders. We live and learn  :grin:

Where are the pictures of yours?

- P
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on July 13, 2017, 03:23:37 PM
Oops: the seat is the original Monza seatpan, modded by Rich's Custom Seats in Kingston WA. There's a bit of metalwork riveted on at the back to make the rear hump. I'll try to dig out the photos.
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: not-fishing on July 14, 2017, 12:53:17 PM
Happened onto your "rehabilitation" of a V50 Monza.

My son and I are continuing through the "rehab" of our V50 III.  yeah we were to cheap to look for a Monza

Word to the wise, check the bevel box.  I'm having to send ours off to Harpers for a new housing because the shoulder bolts backed out at 15,000 miles.  The good news is the ring and pinion gear are fine.

I used "Condor" bars instead of clip-ons and the boy loves them.  I still have to spin the first section of brake lines because of a bad bend near the triple clamps.

I used a Dyna S system to replace the points and it works very well.

I did Patrick's revision to the starter wiring for less voltage loss.

The dash lights and stoplight are LED.

Front springs are Racetech and rear shocks are Ikons now.

We're not doing a restoration just a rehab, slight Cafe and ride job.

Mark
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on July 14, 2017, 02:55:20 PM
I did Patrick's revision to the starter wiring for less voltage loss.

What mod is that? I just have a 12V line straight from the battery to the starter, and another going to the starter solenoid.

- Pasta
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: not-fishing on July 15, 2017, 03:34:39 PM
Tech Reports from Guzzi Power

http://www.guzzipower.com/reports/

Quote
         
Small Block Starter Relay Fix

The trick is in the brown wire.  It leads from the right handlebar to the relay socket under the side cover at connector 30/51.   From there, it is joined by a small brown jumper wire from connector 30/51 over to connector 86.  Disconnect the relay from the  plastic relay socket.  Now look at the receiving side of the relay socket.  Each terminal has a slot with a small notch.  Reach  into this notch with a small jeweller's screwdriver.  Inside is a little tang on the female spade connector. You need to flatten  this tang so that you can pull the wire and spade connector out from the back of the relay socket.  We need to do this to swap  the position of the two terminals within the relay socket.

Once you have both of the brown wire terminals removed from 30/51 and 86, then cut them apart as close as possible where they  both join at the 30/51 terminal.  Now, you have the wire from the handlebar with a spade female on it and you have a short, two- inch wire with a spade female terminal.

Use your screwdriver to bend out and restore the little tang on the back of each female terminal so that it acts as a snap lock  when you insert it back into the relay socket.  Now, reinsert the two terminals into the connector block BUT swap them so that  the harness wire from the handlebar now goes directly into 86 and the shorter, two-inch wire goes into 30/51.

Now manufacture a short red wire.  Perhaps 16 gauge and ten inches long with a ring terminal at the battery end, an in-line  automotive fuse spliced into the middle and a straight crimp connector at the business end.  Splice this new jumper directly to  the two-inch brown wire dangling from the 30/51 position and install the ring terminal directly on your battery positive post.

You are all done.  Now, the 86 terminal only carries the load of the little relay electromagnet coil.  The 30/51 terminal (which  gets energized when the relay closes) has a new, fat, short routing directly from the battery, through the relay contacts to the  starter solenoid. No more CLICK, CLICK when you hit the starter, just vrooooom.

Schematic link HERE.  http://www.guzzipower.com/photos/starterrelayfix.gif

Patrick Hayes
Fremont, CA
pehayes<at>comcast.net

Today was a good day, a run down to the local Guzzi Dealer the Guzzi Semi was there for a test ride of the V9 Bobber hate forward footpegs and V7-III the boy liked the bike but not the lack of a tach

At home I was accosted by a nice postal lady with a package I had to sign for from Italy.  The Flyhammer V50 rearsets had arrived.  Beautiful work, no instructions so I'll just have to figure on doing it wrong 3 or 4 times before I get it right.  Luckily I have plenty of time because I have to ship the bevel box off for rebuild this weekend.

With the rearsets the V50 will be taken about as far as we're going to take it.

Here's the flyhammer pick

(http://www.flyhammer.it/shop/402-723-large/moto-guzzi-v35-v50-v65-adjustable-rear-sets-racing.jpg)   http://www.flyhammer.it

You'll notice the mufflers are off and I figure there's where I'll have to do a little modifying of existing muffler mounting system
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: pitts12driver on July 17, 2017, 10:20:55 PM
Really came out well. A thoughtful and consistent build.
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on July 31, 2017, 11:16:48 PM
Hey guys,

Sorry for not updating more, but we have been redecorating the house and the  :thewife: :thewife: :thewife: :thewife: had other plans for m'time.

Anyways, I have hit a snag inserting the exhaust mounting studs. These are nice stainless steel bits
(http://thumb.ibb.co/mFgmek/IMG_1468.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mFgmek)
like so:

A little threadlock, insert the blue end, screw in, then add a nut on top and tighten to get the whole way in. And who doesn't like getting the whole way in?

Three of four worked perfectly, but the fourth will only go halfway in. The problem is not the screw, it's the internal thread in the cylinder head.


(http://thumb.ibb.co/h7vUzk/IMG_1469.jpg) (http://ibb.co/h7vUzk)


So, I have removed it and am now thinking how to clean up the internal thread. I can use a tap to clean it up, but I wonder if anyone has experience of this and any suggestions before I get medieval in the cylinder head.

Also, when assembling the cross-pipe onto the exhaust headers, how far is far enough?


(http://thumb.ibb.co/gzxEX5/IMG_1470.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gzxEX5)


When getting the cross-pipe onto the exhaust, should I keep hammering away until the gaps in the crosspipe are completely covered by the stub on the exhaust, so should I be leaving a gap that then gets covered up by the exhaust clamp and optional goo?

All help gratefully received!

- Pasta
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Chuck in Indiana on August 01, 2017, 08:36:33 AM
A properly sized tap drill and tap will clean it out. Not to worry..
I'd loosely assemble the entire exhaust system, and see where the crossover *needs* to be.
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on August 01, 2017, 09:28:27 AM
Hi Chuck,

Thanks for that. I don't think the exhaust is going to fit 'loosely' at all. That was my original idea, but the fit is going to be a tight one. hammering the crosspiece on without damaging the exhaust is one concern, but overdoing it and then needing to pull it back out is even harder.

- Pasta
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Chuck in Indiana on August 01, 2017, 09:46:27 AM
Well, yeah.. loosely means no fasteners tightened.  :smiley: The toughest job I had on the Aero engine conversion was mating up the Lario exhaust to the aero engine.
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on August 01, 2017, 10:42:43 PM
Well, the cylinder head stud problem is solved...or at least identified. Some time in the past the stud has broken and left ~10 mm in the threaded hole. If the engine were apart it would be easy enough to have it drilled out, but for now I'll just persevere with a shorter piece of studding.

The crossover pipe actually goes all the way so that the cutouts are covered, and then stops. A little Copaslip on the crossover and stub means it goes in with only a bit of light tapping, rather than mighty thwacks.

Thanks for the help and encouragement!

- Pasta
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: SED on August 02, 2017, 11:02:39 AM
Well, the cylinder head stud problem is solved...or at least identified. Some time in the past the stud has broken and left ~10 mm in the threaded hole. If the engine were apart it would be easy enough to have it drilled out, but for now I'll just persevere with a shorter piece of studding.

Pasta, you might find a left hand drill bit smaller than the hole and try drilling out the broken stud by hand.  Clean the threads, give it a good soak with penetrating oil, center punch (might have to find a skinny punch or grind one down.) and then drill with left hand bit. I've had a couple broken bolts back out just from the drilling.

Good Luck!
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on August 02, 2017, 01:05:17 PM
Thanks! That's a good idea.

- P
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on February 10, 2018, 09:55:54 AM
So, I finally got some time to get back into the V50 Monza project. Where does the time go?

Not much to report this time, as I was mainly familiarizing myself with the state of play after about a six-month layoff . Here's how things stand:



Ignition coils are on the BMW supports, mounted by p-clips to the frame:
(http://thumb.ibb.co/cr9r0n/IMG_1665_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cr9r0n)

Stainless brake line goes from LHS caliper to the linked braking pipe:
(http://thumb.ibb.co/i8TjLn/IMG_1666_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/i8TjLn)

which is covered in spiral wrap and just cable-tied for now to the frame
(http://thumb.ibb.co/gOk9mS/IMG_1668_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gOk9mS)


(http://thumb.ibb.co/cxLjmS/IMG_1669_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cxLjmS)

From top clockwise: rear master reservoir looks at an odd angle in this pic, horn, 30 A fuse, M-unit and reg/rect all mounted on the rear splashguard:
(http://thumb.ibb.co/jsgqRS/IMG_1670_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/jsgqRS)

Jump to other side, stainless hose from rear brake goes to master cylinder with Y-split coupler for the front-linked-brake, brake switch:
(http://thumb.ibb.co/dueMY7/IMG_1671_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dueMY7)

Looks tidier from this angle. Turns out wife's hairdryer is not hot enough to shrink the heat-shrink tubing, {sigh}
(http://thumb.ibb.co/hjNx6S/IMG_1672_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/hjNx6S)

Front brake line goes through temporary cable stay en route to the front M/C:
(http://thumb.ibb.co/n2G1Y7/IMG_1673_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/n2G1Y7)

Ignition wiring, main wiring loom and linked brake coupler:
(http://thumb.ibb.co/eFk60n/IMG_1674_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/eFk60n)

Tank fitted to make sure nothing fouls:
(http://thumb.ibb.co/nL5TD7/IMG_1675_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/nL5TD7)

and then just a few shots around the bike:
(http://thumb.ibb.co/gBGqRS/IMG_1676_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gBGqRS)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/ca2m0n/IMG_1677_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/ca2m0n)

Headlight is on V7 clamps, and is not in final position yet:
(http://thumb.ibb.co/enyR0n/IMG_1678_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/enyR0n)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/jCpARS/IMG_1679_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/jCpARS)

A few more all-bike shots:
(http://thumb.ibb.co/hnq60n/IMG_1680_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/hnq60n)


(http://thumb.ibb.co/mR9MY7/IMG_1681_small.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mR9MY7)
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: twowings on February 10, 2018, 01:39:20 PM
I'm liking where this is going...thanks for the new pics!
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Steph on February 13, 2018, 04:02:14 PM
Nice work, Monza are great! (I had two eh eh)

I’m not a big fan of K&N.
I believe  that as they arrive shipped some are already pre-oiled and ready to use. Their colors are still greyish.
From my experience, if they are ‘red-red’ in color, there is too much oil on them. The dripping is also a concern.
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: SED on February 21, 2018, 11:38:36 PM
Beautiful work Pasta - cool!

I�m not a big fan of K&N.

Agree - K&Ns flexed the rubber manifolds too much on my LMIII. Runs better with the stock airbox.  The stock airbox on the v50 was fine - if just a little oily.  The V65 airbox has been great. 
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on February 24, 2018, 06:35:16 PM
So today was focused on a new rear light cluster I bought from Dime City Cycles, which is in the Lucas mold and was the kind of thing I was looking for. First thing was to start with the existing rear fender, which already had a few holes drilled to support the OEM light cluster and an alternative rear light usit I was looking at but decided against:


(http://thumb.ibb.co/gYbahc/small_DSC00018.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gYbahc)

(http://thumb.ibb.co/na4jax/small_DSC00021.jpg) (http://ibb.co/na4jax) (http://thumb.ibb.co/matcvx/small_DSC00023.jpg) (http://ibb.co/matcvx)

I needed to drill two more holes at the bottom, and use a Dremel to enlarge on of the pre-existing holes into a slot. This let me mount the unpainted rear light cluster:

(http://thumb.ibb.co/kf6ahc/small_DSC00025.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kf6ahc)


(http://thumb.ibb.co/gUaqFx/small_DSC00026.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gUaqFx) (http://thumb.ibb.co/hu3cvx/small_DSC00027.jpg)

 (http://ibb.co/hu3cvx) (http://thumb.ibb.co/mHEHvx/small_DSC00028.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mHEHvx)  (http://ibb.co/ejJMNc)

This looks good I think, except that the rest of the fender carries on and looks fugly. I would need to chop the fender off just above the number plate for this to work, I think. As an alternative, I mounted the original license plate holder, which I had painted orange earlier:

(http://thumb.ibb.co/ejJMNc/small_DSC00029.jpg)[/url] (http://thumb.ibb.co/jcpHvx/small_DSC00030.jpg) (http://ibb.co/jcpHvx)

Not sure which I prefer. Thoughts?

I also added m-Unit Blaze pins, which are about the same size as an M8 socket head and are damn bright in use. You can see them in the earlier pictures, but may not have noticed them. Here they are going onto the headlight:

(http://thumb.ibb.co/jvGmoH/Small_DSC00033.jpg) (http://ibb.co/jvGmoH)


(http://thumb.ibb.co/kW182c/small_DSC00034.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kW182c)


They are almost invisible when not powered on. I like them!

- Pasta
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: SED on March 06, 2018, 11:14:32 PM
Looks great Pasta.  I cut my rear fender and raised the license plate a little. 


(http://thumb.ibb.co/gHLj8S/Before_After.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gHLj8S)
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on March 07, 2018, 10:12:50 AM
Thanks SED. I think I'm going to cut the fender and have the plate hang from the new rear light unit. Your pics are really helpful. It's not on the critical path: I want to get the engine started first!
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: FredZeppelin on March 07, 2018, 08:43:44 PM
Apologies for getting to the party so late, but I also struck the K&N filter interference problem on a Monza motor.   
My solution was to build up the inlet manifolds with weld then machine them 10mm shorter so the carbs sat closer to the head and further from each other.
This took FOREVER, because the manifolds were a bastard to weld due to contamination in the castings.
Fabricating or casting new manifolds is probably a better option if you're determined to use K&N's or similar filters.
Fred
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on March 07, 2018, 10:04:08 PM
Thanks Fred!  :boozing:
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Tobit on March 13, 2018, 02:27:40 PM
Psychopasta,

Any "Before" pics?  I sold my tatty, ratty, basketcase Monza in 2010 while living in Virginia.  Just curious if this might be it.

Nice job!

Tobit
Title: Re: My V50 Monza Rebuild
Post by: Psychopasta on March 13, 2018, 08:04:39 PM
Hey Tobit, check out the earliest posts on http://v50monzarebuild.blogspot.com/ - P