LOL Pete
Let�s say I was looking at a unrollerised 8v bike in Australia.
I am confident that I can install the kit.
There are several rollerised 8v�s being advertised at the moment for between $12k & $14k.
What I am trying to get a handle on is:
If the factory says no to any claim, then how much will it cost me to buy a kit?
How much would someone like yourself charge to supply and install to someone who isn�t confident to undertake the job.
Somewhere between those three prices is the value of an unrollerised 8v.
(Assuming the bike is salvageable and the flat tappet issue hasn�t done additional damage)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
To address the question of cost one has to understand the various machines, their different needs and the choices on offer.
Firstly let’s look at the machines.
The Griso, Stelvio and 1200 Sport from 2008-2010 mostly use the ‘C’ kit although there are a few 2009 plated models that take a ‘B’ kit too so the actual numbers are rubbery. From the middle of 2010 the Norge also came on line and to the best of my knowledge those made between mid 2010 and the end of 2011, with the exception of the 1200 Sports, all use the ‘B’ kit.
From the end of 2011 through to the end of manufacture of flat tappet models in mid 2012 they
all, once again with the exception of the 1200 Sports, need the ‘A’ kit. Sports from this later period need the ‘D’ kit.
So what are the differences and how do you know for sure which kit you require? Well it’s really quite easy.
First look at the inner face of the cylinder head that faces into the valley of the motor. Close to the banjo that feeds the cooling oil to the head galleries there is a manufacturing date stamp. This looks like a small ‘Sun’ with a number stamped in the middle and twelve sections around it that have punch marks in. By counting the punch marks you can ascertain the month of manufacture. On early models, the black paint of the head will be unblemished and these machines will require a ‘C’ kit.
If though, in the paint there is a drill mark like so.
It will need either a ‘B’ or an ‘A’ kit if it is post mid 2011.
Now the way to make
certain you get the right kit for bikes with the drill mark in the paint, (1200 Sports are different. We’ll cover them at the end.) you need to know what sealing method is used on the rocker covers to prevent oil escaping into the plug tube.
On early and mid period bikes, that is those requiring both a ‘C’ kit and the later ‘B’ kit there is a ‘Long’ plug tube that pokes up from the cylinder head, through the rocker carrier/cambox casting and then seals in the rocker cover by means of an o-ring and the cover appears like this.
On later engines that require an ‘A’ kit the rocker carrier/cambox casting is machined differently and there is only a ‘Short’ plug tube that goes between the head and the rocker carrier casting and the top of the casting is sealed to the rocker cover by a circular neoprene gasket of the same cross-section as the rocker cover gasket itself.
Like so.
So, to recap. On all apart from 1200 Sport if there is no drill mark in the paint? ‘C’ kit. If there is a drill mark in the paint lift the rocker cover and see if it needs an ‘A’ or a ‘B’ kit.
With the 1200 Sports
none were ever manufactured with roller top ends and likewise none ever had the required shims inserted under the inlet valve seats so they
all require the heads removing which is the big difference in the work required for a’C’ or ‘D’ kit compared to an ‘A’ or ‘B’. Because they didn’t have the shims the heads likewise are not marked with a drill mark in the paint BUT the final run of Sports used the later rocker cover/Short plug tube combination and for these models only there is the stand alone ‘D’ kit.
I gotta go and do chores right now but a bit later I’ll explain the differences and relative costs for both purchase and installation of the various kits.
Pete
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(not perfect, but nice enough for me)
Just wait till you replace the fork fluid on a Stelvio .... ! 
