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Lead/butter??? I don't get it, should I know this joke? It's a cast Cal 2 rear wheel, yes.Side topic: What's that big external circlip for on the spline-side of the wheel, around the OUTSIDE of the bearing housing on that side?
Courtesy of Mike Tiberio: "heavy as lead, soft as butter". Holds the steel bearing carrier into the cast alloy wheel.
I assume I DON'T have to remove the steel carrier to replace the bearing?
Oh, and Windex instead of soapy water. I don't know why it works better than anything else (in this instance) but it does.
After the bead seats I let all of the air pressure out and then re-inflate the tire. But it makes me feel better.
I've seen a motorcycle tire let go at 70lbs. I would never, ever, ever inflate a motorcycle tire to 100psi. It ranks right up there with changing car strut springs in a vice in terms of taking your life into your own hands. If you need to inflate the tire that high to seat it then something is wrong. A lot of TW200 owners mount ATV tires on the rear. They do everything from trimming the bead to inflating them to extremely high pressure and letting them sit in the sun for several days. When I mounted one I laid a 6' x 8' section of chain link fence over the wheel with 8 ratchet straps at the corners, hooked to steel posts in my garage. With a ton of dish soap the bead set at 75psi and I breathed a huge sigh of relief. Here's a little video that shows what happens when a tire is over inflated during mounting(P.S. the wheel usually hits you right in the face):https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRQhCph_wMk
I think it is mandatory to clean and inspect the wheels prior to mounting and seating and use a good lub.
Mike beat me to it, but I spend a fair amount of time with Scotch Brite and whatever's necessary to clean up the rims. Normally, the bead seats at a little over 40 lbs in my experience.
Had problems mounting Michelin Pilot Activ on the cast wheels of my '81 BMW R100. The rim required a tube.I do use RuGlyde for installation. I did hit 100 psi to get one set seated. Didn't like doing that.Next time around I made a point of really cleaning up the rims. Power wire brush followed with 600 grit wet/dry and finished with Scotch Brite on every surface the bead had to slide over.That set of Michelins popped into place at 50 psi. Smooth up the rims and tires will install easier (and tubeless will seal better).
We may be talking apples and oranges, but the only early Tonti cast rims I've done have been old small blocks. No problemo..
I've cleaned and Scotchbrited until my fingers were raw with little difference in the amount of pressure it needed to seat. Borrani spoked rims? Easy peasy. Early Tonti cast wheels? Always a fight no matter how I prep them or how I do it.
Small-block rims don't seem to be as difficult. Big-block (especially the "bent spoke" type for some reason) cast wheels always are.
Lay the wheel - tire in sun and let it warm up. I use wheel bearing grease. Just enough to moisten rubber. Cleaning tire of all mold flash helps. I use a green scotch bright pad to remove all mold marks. I put a tire on my wheels in March and they have not lost any pressure since. Spoked wheels sealed and tubeless tires.
Edit: I did have some info on the CP2 squirreled away. Means double Contre Pente, which explains even more why these are so difficult to seat (my front took over 100psi to seat, no tube though)