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« Last post by Huzo on Today at 04:39:04 AM »
Either the guy at the dealership is lying or has no idea what he is talking about. A quickshifter will create more wear however it likely won't be enough wear for anyone to notice during their ownership of a guzzi. There are some junk aftermarket quickshifters (dynojet) that relied on a pressure switch however the ones that use a strain gauge are just as good as the factory because they are functionally identical. They both cut the ignition for a set amount of time when the strain gauge senses the shift. I used annatori on my gsxr when I was younger. The more you raced those bikes, the more often you had to get the dogs recut.
You are right that it won’t affect YOUR ownership period. The problem will be when you throw it at the next poor sod when it has 125,000 miles on it. Yeah, you can cut the ignition to unload the drive train so the gear goes through, but when the solid gear dogs have to mesh and the engine is STILL revving 500 rpm too high or low for the new ratio, tell me please, what is it that slams the revs down by 500 in 0.2 seconds ? Will someone PLEASE answer my damn question, instead of telling me what “some guy” reckons. If I’m wrong, it should be easy to tell me where.
2
« Last post by faffi on Today at 03:13:50 AM »
The K75S is the best early K-bike: well made, long lasting, comfortable and easy to service. The hard luggage of the early K-bikes also works well. These were BMWs attempt to preserve the traditional virtues of their flat twins but in a modern package. In doing this it was pretty successful and all the early 2v/cylinder K-Bikes remind me of a a 1980s BMW car, in a good way. Later on BMW simply gave up on simplicity and serviceability in all their products.
On the downside, the K75S is underpowered and while you can rev it hard and make it go well enough, it’s no faster than say a CX100 or 1000SP Guzzi… I traded back and forth between a K75S and CX on a long ride once. In terms of handling the shaft drive and soft suspension on the K75 become a liability if you start to push it hard, on another ride long ago (in maybe 1990) I switched per back and forth between a K75S and a 1983 Honda V45 Interceptor and the Honda was much better when pushed on windy roads. Keeping up on the K75 in that company involved pushing the bike past the limits of a wise rider. The four cylinder K100RS was worse yet, another step behind the K75 in handling but it went better on open roads - the early four cylinder bike was mostly an open road tourer by nature although the paralever K1100RS was better on twisty roads. Skip the in-between K100RS four valve, the Motronic EFI on that one is clunky and it’s a bit of a mess.
One more note: the best BMW handling street bike of the early K-bike era was not a K-bike, it was the paralever R100GS that came out in 1988, or maybe the similar R100R but these are not so silky smooth or refined as a K75.
I think this post is the one that comes closest to the target of talking me out of a K-bike  While I enjoy functionality, I am not against character. For instance, I find my V9 to be both functional (to a point) and also having character. What it does not have, is comfort or practicality. The old BMW airheads do not gel with me, primarily due to the rise and fall of the final drive and the overly soft suspension, but the R100GS supposedly do not suffer from this. As to the R100R, it was a bike I lusted after when they came out, but it too had some weird things going in in typical BMW fashion. The strangest was that the front and rear rims both were 2.5 in wide (narrow?), the front fitted with a 110/80 and the rear a 140/80 tire. The bike worked much better with a 130/90 rear tire, but that was just tall enough to allow the tire to rub on the fender with a fully compressed shock absorber, meaning it was illegal to use in Germany. IIRC, BMW came up with a fix in for of a plastic spacer that limited shock travel and had the 130/90 tire approved.
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« Last post by faffi on Today at 03:03:25 AM »
Very entertaining thread!
I was a BMW rider R90/6 and R90/S before getting into Guzzis in the mid-1980s. There is no comparison concerning character of the two makes as I have owned a dozen Guzzis since. In the winter of 2005 I stumbled into a nice K100RS in a big-4 dearlership and made an obscene offer on it and ended up owning a characterless bike for a couple of years. My observation is that the K bike was terrific at higher cruising speeds and a joy to hustle around 70MPH sweepers, but a cumbersome PIA on the back roads I usually enjoyed. Sold it and bought my second Lario. I would agree on the observation that the best K option is the K75S if you have to have a BMW to fulfill some sordid bucket list.
I would also add that as I am pushing age 70, that I now have a rule about both dogs and motorcycles: Don't own one you can not pick up all by yourself. So the K-bikes are out for me.
Would dearly love to own another R90/S, but those have gone nuts $$ with "investment collectors" and I'm not willing to pay a premium.
Currently considering a used Aprilia 750 Shiver or new Tuono 457, if I don't find something intriguing first.
Good Hunting!
Thanks! I do not mind bland as long as it is good bland, meaning something just works. Your description reminds me of a story in Cycle magazine from November 1982, IIRC, where they went on a multi-day ride on four European machines; BMW R65LS, Ducati Pantah 600, Laverda 1200 Mirage and Moto Guzzi SP1000. The author wrote something like this: "After a spirited ride, three og the men were giggling and discussing their speeding antics and the drama. The Guzzi rider observed this in silence, wondering if they had really ridden that fast, or if the other three had just gone mad." Personally, I must say that I never felt comfortable riding any of the old Guzzi, be that Loop or Tonti, small- or big block. My brother, OTOH, have always loved them, and still own several. The only bike he has disliked is a 1000 Quota he currently owns. He also HATED his Honda 650 Deauville, whereas I really liked mine - I only sold it because the engine vibrations numbed my hands. I mention this to illustrate that people have different preferences and requirements. Luckily, there are quite a number of bikes to choose from 
4
« Last post by Cdn850T5NT on November 25, 2025, 11:34:17 PM »
On my second one. Bought the first...sold it...regretted it...and then bought another.
Obviously, judging by the photo, yours has been repainted. Truth be told, my first one had a 16" front wheel and it really wasn't an issue...despite all that's been written about it. The fact is, getting a replacement tire could be iffy, though. The one I've had since 2005...and still have...was retrofitted with an 18" front wheel and has also been fine. They really are wonderful to ride and it's so unfortunate that they were only here for one year (1987). And...it's a real Moto Guzzi, with Linked Brakes.
FYI, they also came with standard hard bags (unlike the SP 1000 predecessor)...though they were a bit fragile and finicky.
The most important thing with an SPII is to simply ride it and enjoy it! It's a unique chapter in Moto Guzzi history that had never been properly replicated until the arrival of the Norge. Which has also been since discontinued...Damn .
Steven Rossi
East Haddam, CT
P.S. -- yeah, seat = T5. Of which even fewer were imported.
I managed to find several 16" 90 section-       ratio tires... All but the Duro and the Kenda are 110 section; Duro and Kenda are 100 section width. Folks have cautioned against going with 120 section width; not sure why. The 16" wheel/tire models are apparently very sensitive to tire size, pressure, and maybe tread pattern. Not all of the frt tires are great for speed rating, and the load ratings likely differ, too. And the mfrs differ by way of perception / reputation.
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« Last post by Tusayan on November 25, 2025, 09:57:20 PM »
The more of the old test reports I read, the more it seems like the 75 is the best choice. The K75S is the best early K-bike: well made, long lasting, comfortable and easy to service. The hard luggage of the early K-bikes also works well. These were BMWs attempt to preserve the traditional virtues of their flat twins but in a modern package. In doing this it was pretty successful and all the early 2v/cylinder K-Bikes remind me of a a 1980s BMW car, in a good way. Later on BMW simply gave up on simplicity and serviceability in all their products. On the downside, the K75S is underpowered and while you can rev it hard and make it go well enough, it’s no faster than say a CX100 or 1000SP Guzzi… I traded back and forth between a K75S and CX on a long ride once. In terms of handling the shaft drive and soft suspension on the K75 become a liability if you start to push it hard, on another ride long ago (in maybe 1990) I switched per back and forth between a K75S and a 1983 Honda V45 Interceptor and the Honda was much better when pushed on windy roads. Keeping up on the K75 in that company involved pushing the bike past the limits of a wise rider. The four cylinder K100RS was worse yet, another step behind the K75 in handling but it went better on open roads - the early four cylinder bike was mostly an open road tourer by nature although the paralever K1100RS was better on twisty roads. Skip the in-between K100RS four valve, the Motronic EFI on that one is clunky and it’s a bit of a mess. One more note: the best BMW handling street bike of the early K-bike era was not a K-bike, it was the paralever R100GS that came out in 1988, or maybe the similar R100R but these are not so silky smooth or refined as a K75.
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« Last post by michaell32 on November 25, 2025, 09:32:31 PM »
A quick update;
I spoke to one of our favorite MG dealers and he said that if it was a factory blip/quickshift, it was actually less wear and tear on the tranny, drivetrain etc.
The big problem is with aftermarket shifters as the ECU and the bike cannot compensate for them.
Ymmv
inditx
Either the guy at the dealership is lying or has no idea what he is talking about. A quickshifter will create more wear however it likely won't be enough wear for anyone to notice during their ownership of a guzzi. There are some junk aftermarket quickshifters (dynojet) that relied on a pressure switch however the ones that use a strain gauge are just as good as the factory because they are functionally identical. They both cut the ignition for a set amount of time when the strain gauge senses the shift. I used annatori on my gsxr when I was younger. The more you raced those bikes, the more often you had to get the dogs recut.
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« Last post by Huzo on November 25, 2025, 09:21:21 PM »
Hey Huzo,
Not sure if you were asking me this or BullDog.
At any rate, you’re beyond my depth so for now, I’ll be content with accepting a quickshifter only if it comes with the bike, read no aftermarket ones and probably not use it much anyway.
inditx
It was/is in response to Bad Chad’s question as to if I had any evidence to support my theory that quick shifters come at the cost of gearbox longevity. I’m awaiting the tsunami of answers to question #1 so we can clear up differences of opinion as we move forward. I think it was Bulldog that indicated he agreed with my opinion.
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« Last post by GMC28 on November 25, 2025, 09:15:59 PM »
miserable weather out here, raining sideways. went up to shop and pulled the black rubber sleeve, and don’t see a code.
Hoping the PO will find the key at his place this coming weekend when he’s back for holidays, and if not perhaps i’ll just bring the whole thing to the locksmith.
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« Last post by Tom H on November 25, 2025, 09:07:25 PM »
You might want to check your battery connections and ground points. If you have an iffy ground for instance, the reg. may charge at a higher rate thinking the battery is low.
Just a thought,
Tom
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« Last post by Tom H on November 25, 2025, 09:04:12 PM »
I just got home from my part time job and it was 75 degrees. Got a bit chilled. (Florida)
Where is the thumbs down button when you need it  Tom
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