Recent Posts

1

General Discussion / Re: Anybody have leaks between tire and bead?

« Last post by Rebochi on Today at 06:16:13 PM »

   I clean and polish the bead seat then seal it spray contact cleaner before inflating the tire. It seems to end any leaks from seating area. When removing the old tire I cut the bead with a skinny wheel on the angle grinder instead of fighting the bead with tire irons.

2

General Discussion / Re: Neutral Bulb

« Last post by Kiwi_Roy on Today at 06:14:46 PM »

KIWIROY - It has been a while since I did this and don't remember for sure if I tried the diodes to each side or not, in theory that would work.  But I had just changed over to all LED bulbs on the bike and the issue I had was as long as the turn signal indicator bulb was in the socket I had 4 way flashers whenever trying to use a turn signal.  Didn't matter R or L.  The only way I found to stop that was to remove the indicator lamp then everything worked properly.  So I added the 2 LEDS in order to have turn signal indicators.  I know I played with this for several days and tried several different things with diodes, just don't remember what combinations I tried.

If you use two diodes back to back with the arrow pointing towards the centre the juice cannot go from left to right or vice versa.
Left ------>|---|<------Right  the centre point |---| is where the dash lamp connects with the other contact to chassis.
if you use incandescent flasher lamps and an LED indicator like the 194 non polarized LED the power will flow from left to right the current drawn by the led (~ 10 mA) is not enough to light the opposite incandescent lamps which require an Amp or more.
left ---------194 LED--------<10 mA-----Right
The type 194 lamps I like are not polarity sensitive as they have 4 diodes in the base to rectify the power whichever direction it's going
https://www.superbrightleds.com/194-led-bulb-1-led-miniature-wedge-base

KIWIROY - It has been a while since I did this and don't remember for sure if I tried the diodes to each side or not, in theory that would work.  But I had just changed over to all LED bulbs on the bike and the issue I had was as long as the turn signal indicator bulb was in the socket I had 4 way flashers whenever trying to use a turn signal.  Didn't matter R or L.  The only way I found to stop that was to remove the indicator lamp then everything worked properly.  So I added the 2 LEDS in order to have turn signal indicators.  I know I played with this for several days and tried several different things with diodes, just don't remember what combinations I tried.

If you use two diodes back to back with the arrow pointing towards the centre the juice cannot go from left to right or vice versa.
Left ------>|---|<------Right  the centre point |---| is where the dash lamp connects with the other contact to chassis.
if you use incandescent flasher lamps and an LED indicator like the 194 non polarized LED the power will flow from left to right the current drawn by the led (~ 10 mA) is not enough to light the opposite incandescent lamps which require an Amp or more.
left ---------194 LED--------<10 mA-----Right
The type 194 lamps I like are not polarity sensitive (it says that right in the specs at the bottom Polarity Sensitive NO as they have 4 diodes in the base to rectify the power whichever direction it's going
https://www.superbrightleds.com/194-led-bulb-1-led-miniature-wedge-base

3

General Discussion / Re: Final Tour on the Breva750

« Last post by Scott Carpenter on Today at 06:13:31 PM »

Well, I had the test ride and took delivery today of a new green V7 850 Sport. Yes it is harder to push around, but manageable. I'm not and never have been a paddling person - If I have to move it by human power I'll get off.

4

General Discussion / Re: New bike..tomorrow! V7 Sport 850

« Last post by Scott Carpenter on Today at 06:08:38 PM »

First days impressions - 123 miles. Picked up the bike at 11 this morning, and that was a relatively painless process. It had 7 miles on the clock. Then rode to Kingsbridge along a dual carriageway and some back roads to meet a BMW riding friend for lunch. I believed that the bike was in Road mode - turns out I was wrong. Anyway, first impressions were the bike looks very well finished, and when started up there is a fair bit more rock than a B750. The sound at idle is excellent, clearly a lot of thought had gone into that. Along the motorway I thought the throttle response a bit jerky compared to the B750, and the suspension clearly is firmer. When I got a chance at a twisty road without traffic the bike was noticeably less twitchy and more "planted" than the Breva. Instruments easy to read.

Had lunch and Graham my BMW friend commented on how good it looked. Then I filled the tank and rode up onto Dartmoor. While getting there I did the first overtake on this bike with intent, as a Suzuki Swift was dawdling. As I did this the screen started saying "MGTC Disabled" and kept flashing all the way to Princetown where I did a pitstop at the Fox Tor Cafe to.......READ THE MANUAL.  One milkshake and some reading later I was none the wiser - the manual is not super clear. When I started the bike to go the warning did not return, AND I pressed "a button" not sure which one and I learned I had been in Sport mode, so I changed it to Road mode, and set off for the Warren House. Much better smoothness, just as strong (certainly during this running in period). Then it was a cool drink in the shade at the Warren House and a ride home which was super enjoyable. Doing over 62mpg. Seat is comfortable. Clutch light, controls easy but there is still some getting used to it after 20 years on the Breva.

Throttle response in SPORT is to my feel very different from ROAD. I have not tried RAIN.

I think I have definately made the right purchase. 

PS - this is by far the most sophisticated by I have ever owned, and I think it would help if there was a Youtube video showing how to change the modes (its not the button marked MODE!), how to turn off on and set the traction control, and various other things.  Of if the dealer was able to run through these things.

5

General Discussion / Re: Anybody have leaks between tire and bead?

« Last post by faffi on Today at 06:08:16 PM »

FWIW - If you take the same tire on/off the bike 5 times in a row it'll take 5 different pressures to seat the bead. Just because it took 100 PSI one time does not mean it'll take that every time.

I've had tires seat with 20 PSI and other took at or above 100 PSI and seat with an autorotative high pitch "ping"

For a bit of safety, a clip-on air chuck and a foot pedal to dispense air allow the tire jockey to get away from the tire in case it gives way. Using a push on air chuck keep the tire jockey hoveing over the tire. Not a good place to be.

I tried to reseat it a number of times myself, and the shop removed the tire and refitted it, but you may be correct in that it could suddenly just decide to slip onto the beads easily.

As to the pressure - I do not plan to find out what can happen by going past 75 or so myself, but the tire bloke said the volume is not enough in a motorcycle tire to provide a big risk, while huge tractor tires will kill.

6

General Discussion / Re: Anybody have leaks between tire and bead?

« Last post by faffi on Today at 06:04:41 PM »

I have had this issue previously and on modern rims even. What I found is, the bead seat on the rim was marked up from tire spoons, that chipped or scratched off the paint. Use of dish soap as tire lube caused the formation of aluminum oxide in those chips & scratches.

The white powder that forms as aluminum oxide expands as it is produced. The expansion pushed the tire bead off the rim bead sufficiently to allow air to escape. It looked a bit like this:




Definitely had to de-bead the tire to clean up the corrosion and treat the surface to prevent further occurrence. My advice would be to do the same. Clean the surface thoroughly and apply something to stop the corrosion before remounting the tire.

I know, and it has happened to me before at times, but this rim was cleaned, sanded and the scratches smoothed well over before the tire was first fitted, and still looks shiny when I deflate the tire and push it some way from the bead. It was the same story with the previous set, which I did remove - there was paste on the tire and bead, but no corrosion.

The real issue for me is that the tire will retain 30 PSI for weeks with hardly any drop of pressure, then one day it is zero. If I just inflate it then, it will be flat again in a day. I therefore spray on Windex or similar that is allowed to enter between the tire and bead, pump it up, and it all repeat itself. The tire only start leaking visibly if I let it go flat - if I could remember to check it every 2nd week, there would not be an issue. Hm, that was not the best explanation ever written, but hopefully you get what I am trying to explain.

7

General Discussion / Re: Anybody have leaks between tire and bead?

« Last post by Kiwi_Roy on Today at 05:58:34 PM »

You must be taking tubeless, right?
Take the tire off and polish up the rim with  buffing wheel then refit the tire using tire lube.

8

General Discussion / Quota questions

« Last post by Lee Bruns on Today at 05:52:41 PM »

Fixing on a Quota and wondering if the stock petcocks are notoriously fussy and I should just replace them now, or wait for more trouble from them. It was parked for 5 or so years, and the electric petcocks were not opening, but I unscrewed the bottom, slid them in and out a couple times, then reassembled, and it works now. Going to do the other side next but was curious if they're just a flawed petcock. And, eyeballing the cracks around the spokes on the rear wheel. My plan is to fit an EV wheel under there. Have others done that already? Was a new brake caliper carrier needed to be fabricated? Or is there one that will bolt on?

9

General Discussion / Re: Acid Based Aluminum Cleaners

« Last post by PeteS on Today at 05:41:31 PM »

Looks like there are many phosphoric acid cleaners on Amazon. I may try one of them.

Pete

10

General Discussion / Re: Anybody have leaks between tire and bead?

« Last post by Perazzimx14 on Today at 05:38:24 PM »

These were originally fitted at a tire shop using mounting paste, or whatever it is called in English, but unlike many it did not leave a visible goo. I do not want to take this tire off the beads, because in order to get it seated, it took 110 PSI !!! That's why I took to the tire shop, because I could not seat it using 75 PSI, and did not want to risk going higher in case the rim or tire ended up bursting. The tire guy was not worried going to 110, though.

That said, so far it has kept the pressure fine for several weeks, but since the bike has not been on the road for two years, I forget to check and fill often enough.

FWIW - If you take the same tire on/off the bike 5 times in a row it'll take 5 different pressures to seat the bead. Just because it took 100 PSI one time does not mean it'll take that every time.

I've had tires seat with 20 PSI and other took at or above 100 PSI and seat with an autorotative high pitch "ping"

For a bit of safety, a clip-on air chuck and a foot pedal to dispense air allow the tire jockey to get away from the tire in case it gives way. Using a push on air chuck keep the tire jockey hoveing over the tire. Not a good place to be.