Recent Posts

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General Discussion / Re: Cranky Norge

« Last post by pehayes on Today at 05:18:16 PM »

Huzo:  Any chance  you have old/original fuel lines which might be cracked?  A very minor crack might bleed some fuel while running but you wouldn't see or smell due to the constant flow of air over the moving bike.  That same tiny crack might leak a lot of fuel when it sits for a few days.  Thus, the final fuel lines might have air and not fuel.  Preemptive changing of fuel lines might solve it.

How about a test?  Turn the key on and off several times without hitting the start button.  Each key duty cycle should run the fuel pump and will help to fill hoses and build fuel line pressure.  Then it might start instantly.

Otherwise, use it every day!  :-)

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

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General Discussion / Re: Throttle balance question

« Last post by guzzisteve on Today at 04:39:41 PM »

I use carb cleaner & compressed air. I use oring lube on screw orings but you can just use some engine oil.

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General Discussion / Re: Throttle balance question

« Last post by nwguy on Today at 04:20:26 PM »

By virtue of the cleaner draining back out?

For cleaner, wd40? Penetrating oil?

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General Discussion / Re: T-3 police bike

« Last post by johnwesley on Today at 04:18:48 PM »

I started pulling the engine down and the cylinder is 89mm, 1000cc. So someone swapped them out. After cleaning books like they will need to be honed. Looking around at the normal parts house I don’t see new ring for iron bores just replacements for Nikasil bores.

Reason for swapping is the police bike doesn’t have a title, the other bike does. Both bike have the t3 floorboards, so the better side stand. Also the police bike is missing a lot of parts and over all in worse condition. It does have a nice police instrument panel, bars and switches.

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General Discussion / Re: Throttle balance question

« Last post by guzzisteve on Today at 03:57:57 PM »

Pull & shoot up some cleaner, then you know not plugged.

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General Discussion / Re: T-3 police bike

« Last post by Antietam Classic Cycle on Today at 03:53:33 PM »

Think it’s best to just swap cyclinders or complete engines? They both show similar mileage, assuming they are correct

That depends on if you want to retain matching numbers. If you want engine and frame numbers to match, swap cylinders. It might also depend on the condition of the rest of the engine (bottom end). 

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General Discussion / Re: Throttle balance question

« Last post by nwguy on Today at 03:39:16 PM »

If I remove the air bleed screws, is it safe to shoot compressed air up there to make sure the orifices are open? Like I say, I've previously removed those screws and cleaned everything I could reach with a q-tip.

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General Discussion / Re: Cranky Norge

« Last post by Bulldog9 on Today at 03:37:19 PM »

I have pondered a particular feature of my Norge, which has developed over the last couple of years.
If I leave the bike for 3 or more days, it cranks a bit too long before it fires up (about 6 seconds or so) and when it does fire, it idles perfectly.
After running for as little as 5 seconds, I can shut it off and then hit the starter again and it fires immediately.
It is not a battery issue, because I have left it on a charger overnight to test that theory and it makes no difference.
The TB’s are well balanced and TPS is at 4.6.
The CO trim is at 6.
It really is a function of how long it has sat since the last start but again, if I leave it 5 days and it is slow to fire up, 3 seconds running and it will then re start immediately.
I have a new fuel pump and filter going in, as I wonder if it is a bit slow to bring the fuel pressure up.
Some injector cleaner could be advantageous as well. I have been away for a week, so I will shoot a video upon my return.
I have an apparatus to re set the sacred screw, but I need a set of unmolested TB’s to calibrate the manometer first.
Any ideas ?
Oh BTW..
If y’all are wondering why I need to reset the sacred screw, these are a set of almost new ones that have been molested.

Huzo, I think its a fuel pressure issue. As the bike sits, pressure bleeds back into the tank (though could be injectors). It takes a few moments for the pressure to rise. This happens on most of my FI vehicles. I will cycle the key on once or twice to let the initial run of the pump repressurize the system. You can hear it change after the 2nd or 3rd. ALways fires up without issue when I do this. 

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General Discussion / Re: How to buy out of state

« Last post by moto on Today at 03:16:07 PM »

Don't neglect to carefully check the VIN number on the steering stem to make sure it agrees with the title. No matter how much you like and trust the seller. I didn't do this for the first time in my life recently, and had to endure two months of waiting and photographing the steering stem, to get a valid title. This was an out-of-state purchase that I picked up.

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General Discussion / Re: Cranky Norge

« Last post by guzzisteve on Today at 03:13:12 PM »

That's what happens to old bikes, how many miles? Just be lucky it runs, still.