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1
The sad part of Moto Guzzis but we knew that going in. I sold my V100 well below market to be able to sell it in a timely manner. I got next to nothing for my V7lll on trade in. It is what it is, I just think of the joy I got out of them. I just traded my Ram dually on a new Jeep Gladiator, I didn't need that big a truck anymore nor want to drive that big monster around town. It had several dents and scrapes so I took a beating but that's life. Thirteen years and 100,000 miles later it was ok. I always buy high and sell low, that's what my cattle rancher step father always said, I just follow in his footsteps.
kk
2
Hi all,

Looking for some advice before I pull the right head.

Bike: 2009 V7 Classic (EFI).

Symptoms

Started with:

  • stalling when cold
  • loss of power at higher revs
  • one knock on first start, which then disappeared

Later developed a persistent metallic ticking/knocking from the right cylinder, strongest around the exhaust side.
Noise increases with RPM, slightly quieter when warm but never fully disappears.

Work already done

  • Oil + filter change
  • Valves adjusted multiple times (currently 0.10 intake / 0.14–0.20 exhaust)
  • Updated timing chain tensioner installed
  • Pushrods checked (straight)
  • Rockers inspected – no abnormal wear or play
  • Head nuts torqued 42 Nm (M10 studs)
  • Exhaust gasket replaced
  • Injectors swapped L ↔ R → no change

Endoscope inspection showed normal carbon and no piston damage, walls has crosscheck marks, no scoring .

Timing check

I also checked cam timing roughly by setting valve clearance to about 1 mm and rotating the engine to observe valve events.
The method wasn’t extremely precise, but left cylinder TDC aligns with the marks on the crank and nothing appeared obviously out of phase.

Other observations

  • With exhaust removed I saw some oil mist near the exhaust valve stem on the right side
  • Interestingly the left cylinder had more oil residue overall

Compression test

Cold engine, throttle open:

  • Right cylinder: 9.6 bar
  • Left cylinder: 11 bar

Other notes

  • GuzziDiag previously showed right ignition coil error
  • Plug-cap pull test: both cylinders contribute, though right seems weaker

Question

Given the persistent right-side noise + lower compression, does this point toward an exhaust valve / seat sealing issue on the right cylinder?

Before pulling the head, would you recommend:

  • leak-down test? I do not have tools
  • anything else to check first
  • How common valve issues on 13k bike

So my guess is
  • loose valve is rocking in the guide and making noice
  • knocking when hitting the valve seat
  • when the valve doesn’t seal perfectly, combustion gases leak past it and can create a sharp ticking sound that mimics mechanical noise
  • timing jumped one teeth but still all two marks align

I’ll add a video of the noise.

Thanks for any input.
https://youtube.com/shorts/vqh4stjlxp4?feature=share
https://youtu.be/CKkUQIhDwXk
https://youtu.be/dsWYpI2tt-E










[/list]
3
for one more data point, I recently sold my '16 Audace (11k miles) for $4500. It was a non-running project when I picked it up, but clean enough overall that I thought it was easily a >$5k bike once I got it 100% roadworthy.

Nope.

The Guzzi brand is just not widely known and the minimal dealer support further decreases their value to all but us DIY mechanics.
4
General Discussion / Re: Tuning V11 Bassa - one more time
« Last post by nwguy on Today at 10:32:39 AM »
Have the rubber boots been tested for an dry or heat rot, possible air leak?  How fresh are all of the boots?

They're new as of last summer with only a few hundred miles on them. Clamps tight. I'm going to look more closely at the throttle cables.
5
This was my selling experience last fall. Needed to sell my 2011 Norge with 27,000 miles on it. Had some scrapes from two tip overs on dirt/sand at basically zero mph and one in a parking lot when my foot slipped out from under me due to fine sand and silt. Otherwise...
Both original and a Cal Sci wind screens.
Back tire about 89%, front 40% but with another new front tire to go with the bike.
Guzzi side cases and matching top case.
Fresh oil change.
Rollored.
Ran great, everything worked as it should.
Tough sell but went for $1,800 after a period of no nibbles.

Picture is the buyer taking it away.




That takes the prize for the best mile muncher for the money! 

But we need a SAD button.  Like button doesn't fit for this one.   :cry:
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This was my selling experience last fall. Needed to sell my 2011 Norge with 27,000 miles on it. Had some scrapes from two tip overs on dirt/sand at basically zero mph and one in a parking lot when my foot slipped out from under me due to fine sand and silt. Otherwise...
Both original and a Cal Sci wind screens.
Back tire about 89%, front 40% but with another new front tire to go with the bike.
Guzzi side cases and matching top case.
Fresh oil change.
Rollored.
Ran great, everything worked as it should.
Tough sell but went for $1,800 after a period of no nibbles.

Picture is the buyer taking it away.


7
General Discussion / Hello from Minnesota
« Last post by macclan5 on Today at 09:33:58 AM »
Hello from Minnesota. After 25 years of loyal Honda ownership (Pacific Coast/ST1100/Valkyrie Interstate/NT700V/ST1300) the lure of a Stelvio was too much. Purchased a 2013 NTX with just over 13k miles in late February. It had few upgrades-GPR exhaust and reflashed ECU, and upgraded driving lights. My plan is to very little to it other than upgrade the headlights to LED. Bought the fanless Pathfinders that many have had good experience with. My question is is a simple one..what is the part number of the plastic ring which secures the headlight bulb? In order to for the new bulbs to fit properly in the retainer ring, the existing hole in the center has to be enlarged—which is not a problem. Should it be decided to back to an halogen bulb, new retainer rings will be needed. I’ve messed up enough installations over the years to know it’s best to have a plan B. Any insight appreciated. Looking forward to being part of the MG community. Jay
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General Discussion / Re: Is this a good deal?
« Last post by DC950 on Today at 08:58:29 AM »
I guess I've changed so many flats on DS bikes in NM that tubes don't bother me at all.  This stuff works extremely well:

https://www.amerseal.com/

Long story short, I got a flat on the road with no tools while testing my KTM after working on it.  My wife had to come get me.  The next day I pumped up the tire just to move the bike around.  3 years later I'm still working on it, but that tire hasn't lost any air.

There's a very good racetrack test of 10 year old tires on You Tube that essentially proves age is not an issue.  I have 15(!) year old nearly worn out Dunlops that aren't even made any more on my Tuono.  They were on there when I bought it last year.  I ride her the way she was intended - the 190 rear is scrubbed a 1/4 inch inch from the edge.  They work fine in other words.

If the tires aren't cracked and aren't particularly slick, don't worry about them.  Just take it easy at first and if possible, ride them in some sand or dirt to scrub them.

Buy that thing cheap and ride it hard!
9
Older Moto Guzzi's are good prices right now, but a 20 or more year old bike should be really gone thru.   I'd say change all hoses and flush fluids, clutch cable also throttle cables and clean up any PO mistakes.

I have a tendency to do a lot of this stuff on any used bike I buy, no matter the age. Gives me the opportunity to go over it with a fine tooth comb and get to know the bike. More often than not  find out that there are very few good 12v electricians out there that know how to properly wire accessories.
10
General Discussion / Re: My 'new' Stornello
« Last post by egschade on Today at 08:40:55 AM »
I've narrowed it down to either the Anakee Adv 2 or Pirelli MT60. The Michelins are radials and the new 2 series front is supposed to be quieter - they were kinda noisy on my V85. The Pirellis have the closest looking tread pattern to the OEM Golden Tires but would require mixing a radial on front and bias on the rear. Price is nearly identical so that's not the issue. Ruled out the Bridgestone AX41S - newer tire with few reviews and those were mixed.

Again, I'm riding 90/10 with the 10% on groomed gravel and dirt roads.


Found a good deal on the Chaparral ebay store for the MT60s so going with them. 
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