Recent Posts

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General Discussion / First trip away on the V7 850 Sport

« Last post by Scott Carpenter on Today at 12:29:02 PM »

Got back on Monday from a solo long weekend in Wales which was my first trip away on the Sport. Bike went perfectly and naturally I enjoyed my 190 mile loop in Snowdonia which included a nice lunch and a hot chocolate to warm up by the 2 reactors at Trawsfyndd  - maybe I would have been warm anyway Great scenery and freindly people. The day before I did a short loop over to Aberystwyth and over the top to Llanidloes, where I had a bite to eat, bought three books, and talked about ancient Scottish Borders music on bagpipes and harp with a lady harper. Monday just the long slog from Llangurig to Plymouth in the cold, but at least it was dry!

Things I learned;

1. The Sport is a great touring bike - saddle was ok for 5 or 6 hours riding, plenty of power, steady handling.
2. Still have to careful on adverse slopes and wet leaves etc. I was very careful at a loo break in the shadow on Snowdon, but the extra weight was definately felt, especially as there was gravel over the concrete. One slip and she would have gone down.
3. Cruise control is great! Finally worked out how to use it and used it for big stretches on the way home on the M5.
4. Fuel economy was about 65mpg over the whole trip of 690 miles. Not bad.
5. 20mph in villages - you get used to it.

Finally, as I have always believed, Wales is a great short break touring destination. Ive been going for over 25 years there, and it still surprises me. Next year I might see if I can get a week in a hotel in Llanidloes, in a warmer part of the year mind you!

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General Discussion / Re: Seriously stupid designs

« Last post by Dr. Enzo Toma on Today at 12:26:43 PM »

i've got a morini dart , looks like a tiny ducati paso ,


 it is basically a 125 cagiva 2 stroke chassis where they managed to shoehorn a 350 morini engine in.
as the chassis was meant for a two stroke it does not have easy access to the engine.
to check the oil level you have to completely remove the fairing.
typical of italians ,
build beautiful things, but practicality not at the top of the priority list.

I have a Ducati Paso 907ie, and yeah, removing the body work to do anything takes about a half hour if you're careful about it. Anytime Desmo service comes up on one of my bikes I pay a shop to do it. It's ranged from 2.5hr to 6hr services. Modernish Ducatis in general are not very end user mechanic friendly, even for the Scrambler Icon 800 I owned they don't officially publish a workshop manual which was a factor in me deciding to not buy another new Ducati when the DesertX came out. That said, I replaced the clutch on my Ducati Scrambler in the garden of my apartment at the time in under an hour... watching a video of someone replacing the clutch on a Moto Guzzi V7 and I hope mine never wears out!

It's amazing how many bikes have overly difficult valve service though, take the new Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 for example, you have to pull one of the cams to adjust valve clearances. Absolute nightmare compared to something that was simple on the 411 predecessor.

A notoriously stupid design from HONDA of all brands is on the modern Cub engines up until a few years ago, the 110cc and 125cc from the early 2000s up until ~2022 depending on the model had the oil drain plug on the engine just opposite a bolt with the same head size that held the hydraulic cam chain tensioner plunger up in the engine. Come the first oil change, many people pull the wrong bolt and accidentally drop the plunger out the bottom of the engine and lose the spring inside the left hand crankcase cover which requires pulling the flywheel to retrieve it... for the latest Euro5+ engine Honda changed that plunger bolt to a button head allen/hex bolt to avoid the common mix up.

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General Discussion / Re: Necessary to Remove T3 Master Cylinder?

« Last post by jhem68 on Today at 11:29:27 AM »

When I rebuilt mine, I took it as an opportunity to replace the original switches with the much-improved aftermarket items available through MG Cycles. I really disliked the functionality of the originals and had problems with the Molex plug at the headlight that occasionally acted as an independent kill switch at times.

Still have my original switches but I would never use them again.

I'm sure you could rebuild the master cylinder in place assuming the cylinder bore is still in good shape, but even if you like the original switches, it is not that difficult to find the tool for removing the Molex plug and removing the switches.

YMMV

John H

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General Discussion / Darn things are like potato chips

« Last post by Perazzimx14 on Today at 11:13:43 AM »

Another R1200GS but this time its water cooled 

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General Discussion / Re: Necessary to Remove T3 Master Cylinder?

« Last post by moto on Today at 10:47:27 AM »

No, not the brake light switch. The original T3 starting switch gear has its wiring fed internally the handlebars. That makes it a project to remove.

Of course. Silly me. I don't see why the on-handlebar rebuild wouldn't work, if it is only seals that are needed. I hope the original poster will update us how it goes.

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General Discussion / Re: Necessary to Remove T3 Master Cylinder?

« Last post by Dimples on Today at 09:48:42 AM »

If its anything like my mc the switch should be removable, as it would need replacing if it was u/s. Mine can be removed by first removing the lever on the mc as the nut holds the switch bracket in place.

No, not the brake light switch. The original T3 starting switch gear has its wiring fed internally the handlebars. That makes it a project to remove.

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General Discussion / Re: Necessary to Remove T3 Master Cylinder?

« Last post by JoeW on Today at 09:45:47 AM »

I have rebuilt the master without removing it from the handlebar.
I think you must mean the stoplight switch. But it is not wired through the handlebars. It operates from a hydraulic junction below the headlight on the front fork, plumbed into the front brake tubing.
He is talking about the headlight/turn signal switch. The wires run thought the handlebar. It's not an easy thing to R&I.

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General Discussion / Re: Necessary to Remove T3 Master Cylinder?

« Last post by Stevex on Today at 09:39:39 AM »

If its anything like my mc the switch should be removable, as it would need replacing if it was u/s. Mine can be removed by first removing the lever on the mc as the nut holds the switch bracket in place.

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General Discussion / Re: Necessary to Remove T3 Master Cylinder?

« Last post by moto on Today at 09:06:06 AM »

Can the T3 upper master cylinder be rebuilt while attached to the handle bars? I was planning to knock out the old cylinder and then press in the new parts using a socket and large C-clamp to seat them. I can't easily remove it because the switch is wired through the handlebars. Will this be more difficult than I imagine?

I think you must mean the stoplight switch. But it is not wired through the handlebars. It operates from a hydraulic junction below the headlight on the front fork, plumbed into the front brake tubing.

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General Discussion / Re: Seriously stupid designs

« Last post by DaGootz on Today at 08:57:52 AM »

Oh, I don't know.  I'm still scarred from bleeding the I-abs servo system on my old BMW K1200gt.  SIX! (count em...6!) bleed valve nipples on the servo itself, plus one more in a line junction, plus the usual one on each brake caliper for a total of 10!

If that doesn't confirm the old German Engineering adage of "Why use just one part when 37 will do!" I don't know what does.   

You must have the old ABSII brake system, like my 2002 K1200RS, worse ABS system ever designed....it's a freaking horror show for sure....LOL!