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Author Topic: 07 Breva 1100 Valve adjustment  (Read 1776 times)
JF714
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« on: September 25, 2008, 11:23:09 AM »
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Where is the best website to explain the valve adjustment detail for my 07 Breva 1100.  Hopefully with pictures and step by step procedure.  I have let the dealers do this while it was under warrant but would like to try it myself.  I do have a basic understanding of how it is done.  Not sure what is involved in lifting the fuel tank up or off to access  the tappet covers.
Or... should I let the dealer handle this?

Dave B
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Kev m
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« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2008, 12:43:36 PM »
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I've only done it once so far, but I'm coming up on the second time.

Go over to www.guzzitech.com and register/search/ask.

As for me -

There is a oil cooler cover at the front of the tank, that goes from sponsoon-to-sponsoon (ya know those funny looking things on the lower front of the tank with the chromesque covers). You have to remove 4 fasteners and remove that cover, then unbolt the rear of the tank and you can tilt it up far enough to put some blocks off wood or a gallon water bottle (empty but sealed works well) to support the tank.

Then pop off the little round sidecover thingie on the right side so you can see the flywheel and timing marks.

Pop off the little plastic front cover thinging on the front center of the motor so you can turn the crankshaft with a big socket.

Take of the valve covers.

Set motor to TDC using timing marks and observing the opening/closing of the valves.

Install everything.

"Piece of pie, DA?"  Wink

Kev
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« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2008, 09:22:06 PM »
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Thanks for the advice.  I was looking it over and wondering if that front grill on the tank had to come off.  Also if there was enough room to lift the gas tank and get at the top screws on the valve cover.  I have downloaded the rest of the procedure on rolling the crank shaft, and setting the clearances.  It is the little things like removing the front pieces and lifting the tank they don't mention.  I have already figured out the code to clear the little "wrench" on the dash.
Thanks again Kevin for the advice.

Dave B
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Mike Bui
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« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2008, 09:42:40 PM »
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Should be the same as the Norge unless the manual indicate difference clearance.  No need to remove or lift anything except the valve covers. Here’s the link from the archived thread on old guzzitech forum before it went out of commission.
Norge
http://guzzitech.com/PHPBB2/viewtopic.php?t=329&sid=d37743703d9550d48372c00f49e97bcf

B11
http://www.guzzitech.com/PHPBB/viewtopic.php?t=223
 
To easily remove the top screws on the valve cover I use ball hex T-handle socket.
« Last Edit: September 25, 2008, 09:45:26 PM by Mike Bui » Logged

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« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2008, 04:08:49 AM »
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This one is very helpful as well. Pics are the 750, but basically same procedure.
Check all values, though!

http://pexi.blogs.com/MGBreva_ML_i011.pdf
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Anders Holt

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« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2008, 07:09:31 AM »
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Should be the same as the Norge unless the manual indicate difference clearance.  No need to remove or lift anything except the valve covers.

<snip>

To easily remove the top screws on the valve cover I use ball hex T-handle socket.


Mike,

Have you DONE this on a Breva?

Having performed it, and having seen differences in the size/shape of the tank Sponsoons on the Breva vs. the fairing on the Norge, I don't know why someone would say that.

I haven't tried a ball hex (didn't have one in the right size in the box), but I'm pretty sure there was absolutely no clearance to get in there with one on mine...
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« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2008, 11:50:16 AM »
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Check out the workshop manual (available on GuzziTech at http://www.guzzitech.com/MGGriso/Manuals.html).  It gives nice step-by-step directions with photos... quite handy.  It's good to know about the timing markings on the flywheel- I just used the 'drop a straw in the spark plug hole ' method to find TDC.
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« Reply #7 on: September 26, 2008, 11:56:50 AM »
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I never understood the whole straw, chopstick or press your finger over the whole method of finding TDC... frankly I have a tiny LED bore flash light and I can usually see the piston quite well as it comes up to TDC

- that plus watching the actual valves... ya know

If the INTAKE closes and the piston is coming up, you KNOW you're approaching TDC of compression.

Then it's just a matter of making sure it's up toward the top of travel and you're good to go.

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« Reply #8 on: September 26, 2008, 03:02:31 PM »
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Thanks again for the info.  I'll check my tool box for that 11mm ring spanner? and get'er done.  I don't quite understand the 'straw in the sparkplug hole' thing.  There are supposed to be marks on the flywheel.  They must be questionable, as others mention the importance of physically checking the piston for TDC.

Dave B
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« Reply #9 on: September 26, 2008, 04:15:05 PM »
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Piston pushed the straw or chop stick up like a push rod. Usually it's easier to track with your eye the movents of something external like the straw as you rotate the motor - and move the piston - than trying to peer down a dark hole.

That said, there are more than one way to skin a cat so what ever works for you and you understand what is going on that is the way to do it.

Just wear the proper t-shirt while do it.  Roll Eyes
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« Reply #10 on: September 26, 2008, 08:46:16 PM »
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We're not setting a timing belt or chain here people, the only thing that is important is that BOTH valves are closed, not finding the EXACT point of TDC...
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« Reply #11 on: September 26, 2008, 09:03:47 PM »
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I used to have a TDC tool available when I was a shop mechanic that was a big screw with a spring loaded rod running through a bore in it.  You'd replace the spark plug with this contraption and roll the motor, watching the rod as you went.  You could judge TDC very accurately with it.  In the next bay over the wrench had a 'whistler' that was like a claranet reed and holder.  It screwed in to the plug hole and made a whistling noise as the piston came up, and then a farting noise as it started down.  The trick with that tool was to stop turning when one sound stopped and before the other began.  We used to have fun spinning a motor and making it whistle and fart.  Ok.  I was younger then.  . . . Of course, back in the unit room they used degree wheels an micrometers for assembly and indexing new valve trains.
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« Reply #12 on: September 30, 2008, 11:50:31 AM »
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Did I say ‘no lift’...my bad.
I was referring Graham in NZ post “Although the Workshop Manual calls for the petrol tank to be removed that isn't necessary...” and use the Ball end Hex tool, it allows up to 25 degree angles to play with so you don’t have to lift as much.


Mike,

Have you DONE this on a Breva?

Having performed it, and having seen differences in the size/shape of the tank Sponsoons on the Breva vs. the fairing on the Norge, I don't know why someone would say that.

I haven't tried a ball hex (didn't have one in the right size in the box), but I'm pretty sure there was absolutely no clearance to get in there with one on mine...
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« Reply #13 on: September 30, 2008, 11:59:59 AM »
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Did I say ‘no lift’...my bad.
I was referring Graham in NZ post “Although the Workshop Manual calls for the petrol tank to be removed that isn't necessary...” and use the Ball end Hex tool, it allows up to 25 degree angles to play with so you don’t have to lift as much.


Mike,

Have you DONE this on a Breva?

Having performed it, and having seen differences in the size/shape of the tank Sponsoons on the Breva vs. the fairing on the Norge, I don't know why someone would say that.

I haven't tried a ball hex (didn't have one in the right size in the box), but I'm pretty sure there was absolutely no clearance to get in there with one on mine...

GRACIAS - I figured it was something like that.

I've got swivels, wobbles, u-joints in all shapes and sizes, but there was no way in hell I was getting something on one or maybe 2 upper valve cover bolts on the Breva without a LITTLE LIFT - doesn't take much for sure, just a tad. No biggie.

Thanks for the clarification.

Kev
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