My California Vintage handles like a dog.

[V7Sport73]

Handling problems of this type can usually be attributed to a combination of improper shock setting for the riders weight and spoke wheels not being correctly adjusted.  Raising the shocks will bring the fender to close to the triple tree.  You should check the clearance to be sure you don't dent that pretty fender.

[balvenie]

Bias ply tires will flex in the sidewalls even if you're running them at the oem air pressures.  Better to run them near the max air pressure on the sidewalls.  A lot of times 40 lb. will be better than 36.   ;-T

           My rear is a BT45 radial and since reading this resurrected topic, I have inflated it to 45 psi from 38, with no ill effects. Trouble is, roadworks after the bad rain we had last year have seen road maintainence crews fix the corrugations in my "test-bend" so the usual wobble is not going to happen. Looking for a new test track ;D
            But I take your point about the tyres/crossplies. My bike has always had the radials and has always had the shakes when heeled over in fast bends. Ikon suggested stiffer fork springs and I was going to do it when the front tyre (not a radial) wore out. Instead, I will put a cross ply on the back when the time comes. 

[Tom]

Okay....you have a radial tire on the rear and a bias-ply on the front of Cali with wire wheels? 

[balvenie]

Okay....you have a radial tire on the rear and a bias-ply on the front of Cali with wire wheels? 

         Avon Roadrunner on the front now . Two sidewall plies. Four tread plies. Previously BT45. Two wire wheels. BT45R on rear.

[Tom]

Replace that radial on the rear with a bias-ply.

[balvenie]

Replace that radial on the rear with a bias-ply.

Right ;-T

[Sheepdog]

I use BT45s on my Vintage; and I like them. However, they did require a bit of a break-in before they felt their best. I did inadvertantly bend the flange of my front rim using that long tire lever that came with my Harbor Freight tire changer. This caused a runout problem with the rim that led to oscillations. It required a trip to Woody's Wheel Works in Denver to get corrected.  Also, my bike likes lots of preload and rebound damping in the rear to handle its best. Another thing that has improved both the ergos and the weight distribution of my machine is a set of Stone Handlebars. They are narrower and have less pullback; placing more of my bodyweight toward the front wheel. Finally, adding Vetter Pop-Vents to my windshield reduced buffeting substantially. This not only makes the bike more comfortable, but reduces unwanted forces on the forks and the operator...

[Tom]

Right ;-T

The consensus with the Cali Tonti frames is that radial motorcycles aren't a good match.

[Muzz]

           My rear is a BT45 radial and since reading this resurrected topic, I have inflated it to 45 psi from 38, with no ill effects. Trouble is, roadworks after the bad rain we had last year have seen road maintainence crews fix the corrugations in my "test-bend" so the usual wobble is not going to happen. Looking for a new test track ;D
            But I take your point about the tyres/crossplies. My bike has always had the radials and has always had the shakes when heeled over in fast bends. Ikon suggested stiffer fork springs and I was going to do it when the front tyre (not a radial) wore out. Instead, I will put a cross ply on the back when the time comes. 

Before I bought the Breva 750 I test rode one fitted with a BT45 on the front. Almost put me off buying the Bike. However, because it was the most "right" bike I have I ever ridden I took the plunge. The one we got was fitted with the Pirelli Sport Demon. When in for a warranty claim I was given the Breva with the BT45 again, and it was absolute cr*p. It felt 'orrible. I did not know where the front end was. I will NEVER buy a BT45, at least for the front.

[Rob Morton]

"I've nipped the head bearing nut down aprox 60 degrees - it felt okay before, and it still feels okay (so maybe it was a tad loose?) checked all fork bolts as I was doing it."

Tad loose could easily cause a wobble but generally at lower speeds?
Worn centering of the head bearings can cause severe weaving but as the bike has only done 7000 miles this should not be an issue but as you say it is straight line I would have my suspicions as to whether the bearings had sufficient grease from new?

Don't know how the swing arm bearings are adjusted on the Cali EV but on 70/80's Guzzis you have a locknut and adjuster each side where the swing arm joins the frame.
Once the locknuts are removed the adjuster screws have to be set exactly the same amount out from the bearings. I use a metric vernier calliper. This is most important.
Is there any play when you you try to push or pull the rear end in the frame?

Otherwise I would agree with Rocker about wind buffeting putting bad pressure on the bars.

 :)

Rob

[Tom]

Make sure the spokes are tight too.

[stmike]

Before I bought the Breva 750 I test rode one fitted with a BT45 on the front. Almost put me off buying the Bike. However, because it was the most "right" bike I have I ever ridden I took the plunge. The one we got was fitted with the Pirelli Sport Demon. When in for a warranty claim I was given the Breva with the BT45 again, and it was absolute cr*p. It felt 'orrible. I did not know where the front end was. I will NEVER buy a BT45, at least for the front.

 :+1 to the Pirelli Sport Demon tires.  After changing out the OEM Metzlers that came with my CalVin to the Pirelli's the bike's handling was transformed.  I'm now a Sport Demon convert (when it comes to the Cal).

[Tom]

What air pressures are you running?

[cruzziguzzi]

Make sure the spokes are tight too.

That's a nice heads-up. I haven't even once considered checking my spokes... Seems like a good time to get after it since it's down with it's third toasted battery in 12,000 miles. Now, where's that tuning fork? :BEER:

[balvenie]

        stmike #104
        Tom #103, 100
        Muzz #101

           Thankyou gentlemen ;D ;-T Boy there's some good stuff on here today ;D

               Isn't it amazing; you go for years, knowing there is something wrong and all of a sudden it turns out to be something that someone did way back in the early days that you/I had completely forgotten and taken as Gospel anyway.   
               The bloke who replace my original tyres reckoned that BT45s were better than anything else in the wet and I used to go to him later with the handling problems too but he did not twig. He was an enthusiast too.
               If only i had known about this forum  :'(

[Tom]

On my T3, I had to replace 3 broken spokes.  On my Jackal, 2 spokes.  The Jackal repair was on the rear and the T3 was the front.  Either, I suspect gave me some weird handling.

[Triple Jim]

I just noticed that the original poster, Lou Snuts, hasn't posted in this thread since the end of July, 2009.  Did he ever get the handling the way he wanted it?  His last post ended with "So THANKS to all for the input. I'll keep ya posted as to further developments (if your not 'bored shi*less' with this thread already!)".

[Rob Morton]

That's a nice heads-up. I haven't even once considered checking my spokes... Seems like a good time to get after it since it's down with it's third toasted battery in 12,000 miles. Now, where's that tuning fork? :BEER:

Cruzzi check mine before MOT as this in the UK can cause failure. Ding'em with a small spanner and if the tone is similar you are Okay.

 :)

Rob

[stmike]

What air pressures are you running?

I generally run 34F 36R, but only check them every couple of weeks or so.

[ejs]

           My rear is a BT45 radial and since reading this resurrected topic, I have inflated it to 45 psi from 38, with no ill effects. Trouble is, roadworks after the bad rain we had last year have seen road maintainence crews fix the corrugations in my "test-bend" so the usual wobble is not going to happen. Looking for a new test track ;D
            But I take your point about the tyres/crossplies. My bike has always had the radials and has always had the shakes when heeled over in fast bends. Ikon suggested stiffer fork springs and I was going to do it when the front tyre (not a radial) wore out. Instead, I will put a cross ply on the back when the time comes. 

 :winer
I belive the BT45 is not radial tyre..

[balvenie]

:winer
I belive the BT45 is not radial tyre..

On the wall of the tyre it says, "Battlax BT45R". I took it that the R stood for radial. Am I wrong? :)

[Triple Jim]

I believe BT-45R is a rear tire and BT-45F is a front tire.  Bridgestone's site says BT-45s are bias ply tires.  Mine say "Spitfire 11F" and "Spitfire 11R" on the front and rear tires, respectively.

[balvenie]

I believe BT-45R is a rear tire and BT-45F is a front tire.  Bridgestone's site says BT-45s are bias ply tires.  Mine say "Spitfire 11F" and "Spitfire 11R" on the front and rear tires, respectively.

Thanks Triple Jim
So I still have a handling problem. Heavier fork springs might be in order after all.

[balvenie]

:winer
I belive the BT45 is not radial tyre..

Thanks for pointing that out mate ;D

[FASTFREDDY]

My jackal did that once. It was dry steering bearings.

[doktorwlodek]

My jackal did that once. It was dry steering bearings.

Are You writing about "weaving" ?

PS: When I take out the wheel bearings, wheel axles front and rear were completely dry. Grease was not also on the lifter at the differential. Perhaps there are not lubricated bearings at steering head??? They did not use grease in Moto Guzzi Manufacture, now ??? - I took COMPLETLY NEW 1100 Cali from authorised Guzzi Dealer  :(  ... and was not so chip  :( 

[Triple Jim]

PS: When I take out the wheel bearings, wheel axles front and rear were completely dry.

I'm not sure what you mean.  Grease should be in the bearings, not on the axles.

[balvenie]

Dok,
     The maker, known on this forum as Luigi, is notorious for under lubrication. This applies to the splines inside the bevel box as well as the drive shaft splines, in addition to the sites you mention.
     Unsure what is meant by, "the lifter at the differential". I am pretty much a novice so others might be able to help.
     As for the dealer, mine was/is notorious too. Nothing new there. Reminds of a saying seen somewhere on this forum, "Moto Guzzi...making mechanics out of riders since 1922". Sorry for the inaccurate quote but it conveys an accurate summary of the maker's attitude to its product IMO. Ditto for my dealer. A potentially great motorcycle spoiled by inattention to detail. 

[doktorwlodek]

I'm not sure what you mean.  Grease should be in the bearings, not on the axles.

Of course, grease should be into the bearings. But, I think, on the axles and on drive shaft splines, should to be,too - to protect agains corrosion (Poland, and Nord Italy it's not Sunny California, climate is much like in England). Such neglect reflect poorly Manufacturer, I think.

[doktorwlodek]

Dok,
     The maker, known on this forum as Luigi, is notorious for under lubrication. This applies to the splines inside the bevel box as well as the drive shaft splines, in addition to the sites you mention.
     Unsure what is meant by, "the lifter at the differential". I am pretty much a novice so others might be able to help.
     As for the dealer, mine was/is notorious too. Nothing new there. Reminds of a saying seen somewhere on this forum, "Moto Guzzi...making mechanics out of riders since 1922". Sorry for the inaccurate quote but it conveys an accurate summary of the maker's attitude to its product IMO. Ditto for my dealer. A potentially great motorcycle spoiled by inattention to detail. 

Sorry, Sorry! My mistake. I think "the lifter at the differential" should be "the drive shaft splines", of course. And I'm fully agree "A potentially great motorcycle spoiled by inattention to detail."
 I still wait for better weather to do test ride. Tonight was -9 Celsius in Warsaw (16 Fahrenheit). Today is -4C (25F)...and some snow.