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Author Topic: how good is JB Weld? UPDATE  (Read 7825 times)
Offcamber1
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« on: February 20, 2011, 07:07:50 PM »
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Ok, I have a metal fuel line coming out of the top of the gas tank on my 94 Toyota pickup and it has sprung a pin-hole rust through leak.  Checking on a Toyota truck forum, the tank is a real pain to drop, and I really don't have what it takes to pull the bed, which is the recommended procedure.  The pinhole is right near a bracket that holds it to the top of the tank, so I can't just cut and splice with a piece of rubber hose and hose clamps.

Soooo, as I can just get my hand in there, is there any future in cleaning off the metal pipe with a small brass brush and gobbing a whole bunch of JB weld on it?

Did not work on the high pressure fuel line.  Nuts!  Got to drop the tank or pull the bed to repair.  Nuts!  Damned unreliable Japanese truck; it is only 17 years old and only has 310,000 miles on it.  Nuts!  Do you think they will cover it under warranty?

 
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« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2011, 07:14:07 PM »
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I used it this summer to stop a split on the outside water faucet which is under pressure.
It's held for 20 yrs now on some sort of EGR do-hickey on my vette.
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« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2011, 07:19:46 PM »
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If you go that way think about a tiny hose clamp or maybe zip tie near the hole if possible. Then make sure the JBW goes the whole circumference of the line and covers the tie/clamp as an added anchor. I've done it before.

Oh, and how good is it? My stator cover really likes it -

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« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2011, 07:23:36 PM »
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I use it to seal a crack in the 72 Ducati 750 GT case where the kick start lever jambs into the case and tends to make a crack. I have owned the bike since the mid 90's and used JB weld to effectively seal the crack but have had to redo it 3 times in that time span.

I think the reason I have had to redo it is that I have never done it with an empty crank case so though I cleaned it w/solvent, there still had to be some oil present. I think if you clean and scuff your problem area it would probably hold longer...For the price, worth a try...!
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« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2011, 07:25:39 PM »
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Back in the day, a long long time ago we us to repair Japanese motorcycle clutch and stator covers with it all the time.  Last summer the guys at the Boat Shop repaired the pressure washer with it.  What have you got to lose?
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« Reply #5 on: February 20, 2011, 07:27:39 PM »
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Some years ago, my brother got a used washing machine that the nut on the agitator had stripped out, therefore it was free.  JB Weld to the rescue and I suppose he still has the same one.  

Richard Childress racing uses it in the oil valleys of their engines to glue a screen onto the return port for engine oil.  When I visited there in 2002 they had over 180 engines that they supported in their own cars and those they rented.  I think that speaks volumes.  
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« Reply #6 on: February 20, 2011, 07:33:44 PM »
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If you can get it where you need it, it's great stuff.  I repaired a broken crankcase on my Montesa 349 with it and never had a problem.  The kickstarter stop had punched through from the countershaft area to the alternator.  Bending and filing a new bit of strap aluminum to fit the hole and using JB Weld took care of it.

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« Reply #7 on: February 20, 2011, 07:40:23 PM »
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I repaired a boss on my Saturn that sheared off when a rocker arm broke in half.  The head is made of some kind of alloy and was very dirty being under the valve cover.  I cleaned it very good and then put a small layer of JB weld and clamped the boss back in place.  Then preceded to apply several think coats on the outside of the broken piece, then retapped the hole and reassembled it.  It was running fine 100k later.  It was ugly, but a lot cheaper than a new head casting.

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« Reply #8 on: February 20, 2011, 07:47:26 PM »
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I would say, based on what folks are saying, it's right  good.
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« Reply #9 on: February 20, 2011, 08:43:37 PM »
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I tried doing the JBW on a vent line inside a K75 gas tank. Within a few weeks, it was flaking off. I replaced it with Permatex Gas Tank and Radiator Repair putty from Advance Auto and it's been on there for over 6 months.

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« Reply #10 on: February 20, 2011, 09:12:18 PM »
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You might want to try Seals All. It comes in a small yellow tube and is sold in most auto parts stores. No mixing, just squeeze on and let dry. Worked for me for quite some time on an old gas tank.

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« Reply #11 on: February 20, 2011, 09:26:06 PM »
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Rough up the area with some 60 grit sand paper to give the area a "Tooth". Clean thoroughly with alcohol and give it a shot.
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« Reply #12 on: February 20, 2011, 11:27:37 PM »
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I fixed a leak on an oil pan with Bondo, that was before I could afford J B Kwik.  Just wiped it off with lacquer thinner and put the Bondo on just before it flashed.  Worked until I sold the car a few years later.  I also bed rifles with either Bondo or J B Kwik, they shoot just fine.
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« Reply #13 on: February 20, 2011, 11:34:04 PM »
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Since it's rusty, the jb weld may not hold well, and if it does, the other rusty areas may develop holes soon.
Is it possible to cut the metal gas line in 2 different places and route a rubber fuel line around the gas tank bracket?
Or, can you remove the rust around the pinhole, add jb weld (or similar product) over it, put a small piece of fuel resistant rubber over the hole, and a hose clamp over that?
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« Reply #14 on: February 21, 2011, 02:15:26 AM »
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JB might hold if you get it really shiney rough prepped first and dry it with acetone before application.
However when I worked in  trackter shop, we had some special preparation for fuel leaks that was really dependable.  I can't remember what is was called but a google search may bring it up.

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« Reply #15 on: February 21, 2011, 03:31:56 AM »
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Is it possible to cut an access hole in the bed to do the job better?  It's hard to imagine a single pinhole.  There either is or will be more.  The proper thing to do is do it right.  I had a similar situation with my old Falcon van and cut a square plate out of the deck and made the repair.  I got a bigger square of the same stuff at the wrecking yard and made a hatch for future access.  You could fishplate the bit you cut out and make a hatch. 

A brass brush isn't going to clean the corrosion out of a pinhole.  If you don't clean up the hole it will continue to erode around whatever you plug it with.  If there's nothing structural about the pipe and no pressure at that point a fuel-proof silicone RTV-type sealer should do the job.  I'll call it the 'mender'.  JB weld and other epoxies will work too.  It's a matter of choice.  As long as it's fuel proof and doesn't require open flame to install there are lots of choices.  But the key is the prep.  You can't just slap a sealer on it and expect it to work.

That said,  for the short term hopefully you can get at it well enough to:
polish an inch either side of the known leak with crocus cloth
Keeping in mind that it's a freaking bomb, dig or drill/dremel/file whatever the known hole clean and large enough to get the mender  into. It's got to be clean metal. 
follow up with a clean cloth and electro-motive or similar residue-free solvent
check for more and repeat as needed for all suspect areas.  Use a mirror if you have one.  Look for tiny cracks and other excuses to want to do it right.
spot treat the hole(s) with your mender.  A clipped off piece of zip tie makes an excellent applicator.  Let it set up but not harden
coat the entire cleaned area with a thin, even wipe of mender
when dry, sleeve with a split bit of fuel line (split part down)

Keep in mind that this is a temporary fix.  YMMV YDHIFM
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« Reply #16 on: February 21, 2011, 05:52:16 AM »
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http://www.johnboettcher.com/ra03-00/ra3-00a.htm

From when I used to write for the MGNOC, my JB Weld encounter. I think that trans made at least another 60k before 5th gear blew.
raT3 from the early days.

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« Reply #17 on: February 21, 2011, 08:23:49 AM »
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I have a fuel line repair kit just for metal fuel lines you would be welcome to use, cut the bad section out & make new line
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« Reply #18 on: February 21, 2011, 08:40:28 AM »
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It surprises me that many have had good luck with JB  Huh My experience with it has never been good  Huh I guess I'm not as good as I thought I was  Huh
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« Reply #19 on: February 21, 2011, 10:21:17 AM »
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Before there was JB Weld there was A4 Metalset.  At least in my lifetime.  We repaired holes in raggedy old helicopters with that stuff.  Believe me it was coveted.  It could fix about anything.  One of my pastimes was counting repairs in floors, engine decks and fuselages on the old warriors.
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« Reply #20 on: February 21, 2011, 10:27:28 AM »
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I wouldn't trust JB Weld with gasoline. I use a Permatex/Loctite product made to repair gas tanks. Used it on my LeMans tank in fact and it held for 8 years. Looks like a toostie roll and is a two part product that you cut and knead together to mix it.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-12020-Instant-Tank-Repair/dp/B000ALG8RS

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« Reply #21 on: February 21, 2011, 11:12:17 AM »
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Years ago there was a product similar to JB Weld called "Liquid Steel"; I used it to repair stripped threads (exhaust header stud) on a Mustang scooter block. Was still holding a couple years later when I sold it.
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« Reply #22 on: February 21, 2011, 03:22:05 PM »
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i've used jb kwik to rebuild a gash in a gasket surface on a cyl head from a vintage bmw and it's held up for 5 years now, despite all the temperature changes heads go through.

however, jb is less reliable in contact with gasoline, i think.  anecdotal evidence.

my main concern would be that if there is a pinhole of rust on a gas tank, it probably means that there is lots of rust elsewhere and the rest of the gas tank around that pinhole and who knows where else is already rusted and weak and thin too, and is also about to give way.
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« Reply #23 on: February 21, 2011, 03:36:49 PM »
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Repaired a K75 gas tank with Marine Tex.  Designed to be used on a fuel tank.  JB Weld I'd use if no other choice.  The Permatex porduct is probably preferable.  Marine Tex makes a putty like application too.  IF you have one gas leak due to rust.  You'll have another one.  Good luck!

http://www.marinetex.com/
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« Reply #24 on: February 21, 2011, 06:52:11 PM »
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I don't doubt that jbweld could work for this if you can get it well prepped.  I have many more successes than failures with it.  There are however special epoxies made for leaky gas tanks.  One of them worked well for me on an old rusty tank.  Don't know which one, its been a long time.  One thing different is that your gasline will have alot more pressure inside than the bottom of tank.

Matt
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« Reply #25 on: February 21, 2011, 09:18:12 PM »
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Wait just a cotton picking minute.  According to a lot of people, Toyotas and Hondas are perfect and run 300k miles with absolutely no repairs needed.  Unlike those american cars.

So I think you should approach Toyota and tell them you need them to give you a new truck.  Oh, what a feeling!!
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« Reply #26 on: February 21, 2011, 10:31:29 PM »
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As others have suggested, replace the tank. The pinhole you can see is just the worst one. Plug that, and the next worst one will appear soon after -  and so on.
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« Reply #27 on: February 21, 2011, 11:39:45 PM »
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As above, for a quick, short term it might work, but, another hole will probably soon appear.

I used JBW to repair the high side of an auto air conditioner line that ran to the condenser (hot and high pressure).  It held for about a month, time enough for me to get a replacement line.

The key is cleaning.
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« Reply #28 on: February 22, 2011, 07:52:44 AM »
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JB Weld is GREAT stuff, at least the genuine original is - there are alot of imitaitons.

That said - getting all the chemicals and crud off the spot is key to good adheasion. If you cant get it real clean - it wont be fuel proof. 
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« Reply #29 on: February 22, 2011, 03:40:14 PM »
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 try a product called Seal-all from Eclectic products.  its made for gas and oil  leaks.  JB has not worked every time for me. 
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« Reply #30 on: February 22, 2011, 04:17:24 PM »
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try a product called Seal-all from Eclectic products.  its made for gas and oil  leaks.  JB has not worked every time for me. 

JB Weld sets up pretty hard - if you use it to plug a hole on a "moving" surface, it won't stay there long (say a thin flexing tank surface).   I used it to plug a cracked weld seam on a BSA gas tank on a trip once, a pretty rigid area, and it stayed there, no leaks, for two years until I did a proper weld repair and repaint.

Seal All is great too, and stays more flexible than JB Weld.  It's not a "two-pack" epoxy thing so it's easier to use.    I've used IT to plug a leaking oil tank and it did well till I got home.

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« Reply #31 on: April 24, 2011, 10:58:09 PM »
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Wait just a cotton picking minute.  According to a lot of people, Toyotas and Hondas are perfect and run 300k miles with absolutely no repairs needed.  Unlike those american cars.

So I think you should approach Toyota and tell them you need them to give you a new truck.  Oh, what a feeling!!

Well it did, more or less.  It has 310K on it so they denied my warranty claim and I could not find an attorney to file a class action lawsuit.  Crap!

Did you hear of Toyota's new slogan?  "Once you drive a Toyota, you'll never stop!"

In any event I tried the JB Weld and then tried some gas tank repair stuff too, but the piece was too seriously rusted.  Thus started the quest.  Honestly, it was like doing plumbing in an old house where you start in the second floor bathroom and end up in the basement where the pipe comes in from the street...

Part of the reason the goop didn't work was you just couldn't get to it to clean it well.  So first shot was to drop the tank.  After getting the shield off no problem I found that the bolts holding the tank to the frame were seriously rusted.  After consulting Yotatech forum I found out that the hot setup is to remove the bed bolts on one side and loosen them on the other and then use a bottle jack between the tire and inner wheel well.  Unfortunately, the bed bolts were so thoroughly rusted that you could no longer get a wrench on them, and there was no room for a socket.  Are you sensing a theme here?  The theme was RUST!!!

I really didn't want to tow it to a shop to have the bed bolts cut off so I stood outside in the backyard and scratched my head on what to do next?  I finally decided that since the bed was beginning to show serious signs of rust (there's that word again!) through anyway I'd try to just wack an access hole in the bed.  I was on my 47th hack saw blade and just about done when my next door neighbor comes over and says, "Hey, I have a recipricating saw."

Anyway after gaining access the rest was pretty easy other than the $180 bracket from Toyota.  I then had to cut the end off the brand new bracket and splice it with some fuel line because the swivel connector on the line up to the front no longer swivelled.

So after some serious meatball surgery, the truck is back up and going.  I'd like to get one or two more winters out of it before I let it return to the earth in the form of iron oxide.  I came real close to giving up and having it towed off, but honestly the ugly, rusted, oil-leaking SOB just goes like stink in the snow when you put it in 4 wheel drive and lock the front hubs and still gets 18 MPG doing it.  It normally gets 22 to 24 MPG communting to work and it is really nice to have a truck that you can throw any old crap in the back and just not care.

So that's the rest of the story.
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« Reply #32 on: April 24, 2011, 11:14:31 PM »
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POR 15 is made just for rusty stuff like that.
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« Reply #33 on: April 25, 2011, 09:49:19 AM »
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hers a little about jb weld. I had a tooth that had a cavity. I didnt have the money to have it pulled. The jb weld people said it was non toxic, so I filled the tooth. 18 years! finaly had it pulled last year.
Last night I fixed the tank on my coffie pot that had a drain to stop overfilling.(I had a bigger pot due to breakage) can get 2 cups extra in inow!
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« Reply #34 on: April 25, 2011, 10:16:27 AM »
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Reminds me of an experience with JB Weld.  I also had a filling and it would periodically come out and I would use JB Weld to keep it in place.  I hate to think what a dentist would have charged.  But it would only last for year or two and then one day when I was about to apply some more JB Weld I had the filling and JB Weld on the coffee table. 

I had to leave but when I came back the filling was gone.  Now I can't be certain but my chocolate lab was standing nearby and to this day I still blame him.  I looked all over for it but it was gone.
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Harper's Moto Guzzi
Harper's Moto Guzzi has your spring service kits ready to go. I know it's cold but don't wait to have your bike ready for next year. http://www.harpermoto.com/main-data-base/spring-service-kits.html
http://www.harpermoto.com
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