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Author Topic: Not bad for a 299.00 lift  (Read 4831 times)
azccj
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« on: November 02, 2011, 02:58:10 PM »
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I just picked up one of those Harbor Freight motorcycle lifts. I found a coupon in Cycle Rider for $200.00 off the regular price of $499.99.  Now, I've wanted a lift for a long time since I hate getting up and down from the ground when I'm working on a bike. But my main problem with owning one has been where to put it when it's not being used. My garage is stuffed with my Ridgeline PU a bunch of tools and 4 bikes, so space isn't easy to come by. But yesterday I came up with the bright idea that I could just park my truck over the lift in the garage. So now that I have the storage problem solved I head on down to the local Harbor Freight with my coupons. They have one lift in stock but it has a different stock number and lists for $599.99, but HB honors the coupon and I get it for $299.99 plus tax. It looks like HB has changed suppliers for the lift which is now imported by Pittsburgh Motorcycle instead of Central Hydraulics, but the lifts look identical and I'm sure they are both made in the same Chinese factory. I also pick up a HB motorcycle stand/wheel chock which normally sells for $89.99 but once again I have a coupon which drops the price of the chock to $39.99 plus tax. The reason I picked up the chock is while doing some research on the net, many owners of the HB lift suggest getting a HB chock and bolting it to the lift instead of using the cheap front wheel vise that comes with it. The guy at HB is nice enough to use a forklift to load the crated lift into the back of my Ridgeline and I take it home. Once home and with the help of my girlfriend we slide the crate off the truck then drag it into the garage, yes this thing is heavy, about 337 pounds crated. once the crate is opened up and the individual parts are removed, the main part of the lift can be lifted out of the crate with two people. Assembly of the lift took all of about 5 minutes as the thing is almost entirely assembled as it comes from the factory. I had to drill a few holes to mount the chock but it all went together without any problems. Now for the test. I stand beside my running Norge and drive it onto the lift and into the chock which automatically clamps the front wheel in place and holds the Norge vertical without the need for tie-downs, and yes I know I should use tie-downs and will when I'm actually working on a bike. 50 or so pumps on the lift's foot lever and the Norge now sits at work level, which my back and knees will really appreciate. I gently push down on the lift's other foot lever and the Norge gently returns to near ground level. So far so good, nothing breaks or bends on the lift and the Norge is undamaged from the experience. Luckily the lift with the chock removed collapses to just 7 inches high, so my Ridgeline has no trouble parking on top of it. A nice side benefit of the lift is it works great as a large work table, something I discover while assembling the chock. One thing I would have liked, is some type of ratcheted safety catch system. As the lift comes you insert a long solid metal bar into some holes once the lift is fully extended, then lower the lift until a pair of cross-braces rest on the metal bar. It works fine, but if something was to give out on the hydraulic cylinder while you had the bike half way up on the lift and it collapsed, I would guess you might have a damaged bike. But other than that it's a great lift and well worth the $299.99 I paid for it.










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« Reply #1 on: November 02, 2011, 03:28:12 PM »
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Good to hear yet another positive review of this motorcycle lift. 

I've been reading reviews on it for a long time now, and think I'm finally gonna bite the bullet before winter comes and get one for myself.
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« Reply #2 on: November 02, 2011, 03:46:57 PM »
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Yep, I had one just like it. I loved it. You will find many uses beyond motorcycles.
I used mine for lawnmower maintenance, work bench, power equipment service, cleaning lint out of the cloths dryer, etc.
It was the single most used tool in my shop.

Joe
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« Reply #3 on: November 02, 2011, 03:47:44 PM »
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 Good luck with your new lift... I know it will serve you well as it has my other riding friends have the same thing and love'em.

 **  I need to finally get one of those myself !   It's getting too hard bending, sitting or lying on cold hard concrete in the garage working on the MC's.......
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« Reply #4 on: November 02, 2011, 03:55:50 PM »
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You even got it custom painted to match your bike 
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« Reply #5 on: November 02, 2011, 03:56:02 PM »
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I have an early version of this lift which has a screw type front wheel chock.  And, it uses either air or foot to operate the hydraulic lifting.  I went down the sides of the table and added several inverted U-bolts so that I could use tie downs at various places as needed.  Four down each side.  Don't hesitate to roll the bike on backwards if you intend to do front wheel work.




Patrick Hayes
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« Reply #6 on: November 02, 2011, 05:23:10 PM »
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I have an early version of this lift which has a screw type front wheel chock.  And, it uses either air or foot to operate the hydraulic lifting.  I went down the sides of the table and added several inverted U-bolts so that I could use tie downs at various places as needed.  Four down each side.  Don't hesitate to roll the bike on backwards if you intend to do front wheel work.




Patrick Hayes
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Perhaps yours is an earlier version of my black MC lift as mine has holes drilled into the steel angled side lips for adding straps.   Smiley
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« Reply #7 on: November 02, 2011, 07:19:34 PM »
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I gots one,  works well. 
 However, i hang my head in shame; it is from China. Sad
Another local is put out of a job, China spends the money on their military, to become larger than ours.
Wonder who they plan to use it on?
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« Reply #8 on: November 02, 2011, 07:50:20 PM »
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Wow, nice on painting the bike to match the lift.
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« Reply #9 on: November 02, 2011, 09:54:07 PM »
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They are great lifts. I caught it on sale for about 240 a couple years ago. I really dig the drop out plate for rear wheel removal.
 I may have to get the snazzy front wheel trap. I still have the screw clamp, I put a rag over it as it can touch the wheel on the Norge when tightened.
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« Reply #10 on: November 02, 2011, 10:33:26 PM »
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A question comes to mind. If you are removing the rear wheel, how would you get the bike on the center stand and the front wheel in the chock?
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« Reply #11 on: November 02, 2011, 11:11:26 PM »
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If I had the space I'd have one..........my problem is one car garage, Guzzi goes into basement where another car is stored; don't ask. since my TR6 is the lone occupant of the real garage it does not have clearance to drive over the lift.........HUM maybe I could put in a pit and put the lift in the pit........UH-OH.......this may cost me some $$$$ but I think it's doable..........
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« Reply #12 on: November 02, 2011, 11:26:18 PM »
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A question comes to mind. If you are removing the rear wheel, how would you get the bike on the center stand and the front wheel in the chock?

I put the front wheel in the chock, strap the bike down (bars to front corners) and then use a "scissor jack" to lift the rear of the bike high enough to swing the centerstand down. You can buy a purpose-made "lift jack" http://tinyurl.com/3hqmb4c but the Toyota scissor jack I use works just fine.
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« Reply #13 on: November 03, 2011, 07:30:00 AM »
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Had mine for about a year and like it a lot, a couple of suggestions if you plan on riding a bike on the lift ramp a treatment of traction sand and a some Rust-Oleum red paint will keep the rear wheel from possibly spinning on the ramp. I also have built some portable out riggers on either side of the platform built up to the level of the collapsed ramp, first time I rode a bike up and went to put my feet down well their was no platform just 6 inches of air between my foot and the garage floor as the lift is kind of narrow when astride the bike. I was lucky not to drop it.

I have this wheel chock bolted to the front of the lift, It will hold the bike upright without any straps, it is adjustable for different tire sizes and yes it is from HF

 
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« Reply #14 on: November 03, 2011, 01:35:35 PM »
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Had mine for about a year and like it a lot, a couple of suggestions if you plan on riding a bike on the lift ramp a treatment of traction sand and a some Rust-Oleum red paint will keep the rear wheel from possibly spinning on the ramp. I also have built some portable out riggers on either side of the platform built up to the level of the collapsed ramp, first time I rode a bike up and went to put my feet down well their was no platform just 6 inches of air between my foot and the garage floor as the lift is kind of narrow when astride the bike. I was lucky not to drop it.

I have this wheel chock bolted to the front of the lift, It will hold the bike upright without any straps, it is adjustable for different tire sizes and yes it is from HF

 

That's the same chock I have mounted on mine. Works great.

The first time I went to put my bike on the lift I tried to ride it on, but quickly abandoned the idea as my feet were just dangling in mid air once the front wheel started up the ramp, not a good feeling Cry. I then stood on the right side of the running bike, put it into 1st gear and then easily walked along side the bike as the engine did all the work getting the bike onto the lift and then locking front wheel into the chock. It would be nice to have some out riggers but that limited space problem keeps me from making them.
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Current Bikes
2013 Suzuki Burgman 650. Ya, it's a scooter but it will do over 100 MPH
2007 Norge, Red.....Which are the fastest ones.
2005 BMW K1200LT
2004 BMW R1150RT
1972 Eldorado. Which someday I will restore.

Moto Guzzis now gone but not forgotten
2003 V11 Le Mans
2000 Jackel
1999 EV
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« Reply #15 on: November 03, 2011, 01:44:34 PM »
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I put a piece of plywood about 18" wide the length of the lift under gal. paint cans for my left foot when I ride the rig up on the lift.   Wink

I use a small 2T jack under the bike an an angle w/piece of wood to underside of bike to lift the rear tire enough to pull out the centerstand.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2011, 01:46:07 PM by Arizona Wayne » Logged
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« Reply #16 on: November 03, 2011, 02:01:22 PM »
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I also took advantage of the coupon to pick on of these lifts up. It is still sitting in my garage un-assembled.  Embarrassed I figured it would take several hours to assemble and I have not found the time as of yet. Glad to hear it is a much shorter job!  I think I'll get er done this weekend. Unless the weather gods smile upon us and I go out riding!!  Grin Snow is not far away for Northern Michigan.  Angry

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« Reply #17 on: November 03, 2011, 02:11:06 PM »
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Bolt it to the floor, brake fluid and carb cleaner eat the paint, check the shaft seal nut and don't put big bikes on their center stand while on the lift. 

I have seen a couple of bikes and lifts on their sides.  The tread plate and square tube is lighter then it looks. 
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« Reply #18 on: November 03, 2011, 04:19:07 PM »
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Defently on my wish list as well. Its hard to be a re-entry motorcyclist. There are so many things you need to get  Roll Eyes
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« Reply #19 on: November 03, 2011, 04:22:22 PM »
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I got my coupon today.  It's good throu 10/31.  No worries though -- they won't ship to me anyway.    Tongue
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« Reply #20 on: November 03, 2011, 04:33:19 PM »
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Bolt it to the floor, brake fluid and carb cleaner eat the paint, check the shaft seal nut and don't put big bikes on their center stand while on the lift. 

I have seen a couple of bikes and lifts on their sides.  The tread plate and square tube is lighter then it looks. 

Just how "big" of a bike are you talking about? Largest thing I've had on mine is a Cal II Auto, but I regularly put bikes on their centerstand and have never had any stability issues. I'll even climb up on the lift with the bike on occasion and still haven't had any problems over the last five years of almost daily use here in the shop. I don't have it bolted down either.

Mine has started to leak a little - seems to be coming from around the rod poking out of the bottom of the jack that releases/lowers the table.
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« Reply #21 on: November 03, 2011, 09:37:09 PM »
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Azccj:

  I bought the lift a few years ago, and in my humble opinion is the best money I spent in a while.
My only suggestion is, when you lift the table, make sure you remove the ramp. It isn't meant to hang there by the 2 little tabs.  ( at least that is what it said in my instructions.)

kjf
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« Reply #22 on: November 03, 2011, 10:19:26 PM »
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Mine has started to leak a little - seems to be coming from around the rod poking out of the bottom of the jack that releases/lowers the table.

I have just re-engineered a solution for this leakage.  PM if you want a discussion.

Patrick Hayes
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« Reply #23 on: November 03, 2011, 11:31:39 PM »
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Azccj:

  I bought the lift a few years ago, and in my humble opinion is the best money I spent in a while.
My only suggestion is, when you lift the table, make sure you remove the ramp. It isn't meant to hang there by the 2 little tabs.  ( at least that is what it said in my instructions.)

kjf




Did you need instructions to figure that out ?   Huh
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« Reply #24 on: November 04, 2011, 12:06:27 AM »
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Azccj:

  I bought the lift a few years ago, and in my humble opinion is the best money I spent in a while.
My only suggestion is, when you lift the table, make sure you remove the ramp. It isn't meant to hang there by the 2 little tabs.  ( at least that is what it said in my instructions.)

kjf



Did you need instructions to figure that out ?   Huh



Just an observation based on the photos.    Roll Eyes


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« Reply #25 on: November 04, 2011, 12:13:27 PM »
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I bought essentially the same lift from Northern years ago & it sees heavy use in my shop. I built a stop for the front wheel & use tie downs to the front corners of the table. I usually hold the left bar & hand hold on the rear of the bike & pull it up on the table with a rolling start. I step up on the table side & pull the bike up on the center stand. I can then put a foot on the back of the center stand & scoot the bike forward so the front wheel enters the stop. The center stands have made dents in the table top to the point that I had to weld a piece of steel plate to the table top just in front of the removable plate. It is a double improvement, as now I can slide a bike back far enough to roll it off the center stand. (centerstand used to hang up on the edge of the removable plate.) I mounted heavy duty screw-eyes in the ceiling joist above the table. by raising the table to the max & hooking the frame of the bike to the screw-eyes with ancra tie downs, I can lower the table to suspend either end of the bike if needed. For transmission/clutch/rear main seal work on a Tonti frame:  Tie down front of bike, raise the table, hook up tie downs between rear frame members & screw-eyes, lower the table to suspend rear of bike, place 4x4" blocks under centerstand arms, raise the table, shorten tie downs, lower the table, repeat as necessary to raise bike rear high enough & lower table to a comfortable seated work height.  You can remove the rear wheel & swingarm, place jack under motor/tranny unbolt the lower frame rails battery plate etc. slowly lower motor/tranny  disconnecting wires & hoses until tranny will clear frame bottom, unbolt & pull. Suspended rear clears space at rear of table to disassemble tranny (if needed).
With my bad back I do all the work I can seated, Price of rolling seats made for this are obscene, I go to the Goodwill & pick up used "secretary chair" cheep. Remove the back & use as a rolling stool. When plastic wheels die, go get another.
Note: in the picture you posted I didn't see a guard plate over the "lower" pedal like mine came with. If yours doesn't have one it's worth considering adding. I've managed to bump the pedal at inopportune times even with the guard. 
Ron Komoroski
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« Reply #26 on: November 04, 2011, 01:00:20 PM »
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Azccj:

  I bought the lift a few years ago, and in my humble opinion is the best money I spent in a while.
My only suggestion is, when you lift the table, make sure you remove the ramp. It isn't meant to hang there by the 2 little tabs.  ( at least that is what it said in my instructions.)

kjf
In my instructions there are no such warning and the ramp's pins which go into the holes in the back of the lift have washers and cotter keys to mount it to the lift. On the ramp itself there are many warnings about not using the ramp to support the weight of the motorcycle once the lift is raised.
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Current Bikes
2013 Suzuki Burgman 650. Ya, it's a scooter but it will do over 100 MPH
2007 Norge, Red.....Which are the fastest ones.
2005 BMW K1200LT
2004 BMW R1150RT
1972 Eldorado. Which someday I will restore.

Moto Guzzis now gone but not forgotten
2003 V11 Le Mans
2000 Jackel
1999 EV
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« Reply #27 on: November 04, 2011, 01:14:00 PM »
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Note: in the picture you posted I didn't see a guard plate over the "lower" pedal like mine came with. If yours doesn't have one it's worth considering adding. I've managed to bump the pedal at inopportune times even with the guard. 
Ron Komoroski
On mine the lowering pedal just pulls off it's square post. Once off there is no chance of accidentally lowering the lift. But this really shouldn't matter as once the lift is raised you slide the safety bar in and lower the lift slightly so all the weight is being supported on the bar and none is actually being held by the hydraulic cylinder. I'm going to guess that because you work from a chair, there are times when you need to raise the table to different heights. If so, I can see how this could be a problem if the lowering pedal is accidentally pushed.
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Current Bikes
2013 Suzuki Burgman 650. Ya, it's a scooter but it will do over 100 MPH
2007 Norge, Red.....Which are the fastest ones.
2005 BMW K1200LT
2004 BMW R1150RT
1972 Eldorado. Which someday I will restore.

Moto Guzzis now gone but not forgotten
2003 V11 Le Mans
2000 Jackel
1999 EV
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« Reply #28 on: November 04, 2011, 01:47:12 PM »
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Haven't used mine yet.  Easier to use the C-lift and/or engine hoist and/or HF roller motorcycle lift.  I need to re-organize my working mess.

From the comments I guess cheap works.   
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