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Holly cow, it's nearly 8 months since I last posted, not a lot has to report I'm afraid.I did send the uni joint away for refurbishing. Today I decided to remove the spokes from the rear wheel, what a jobthey fought every inch of the way. The nipples came off without too much drama but the spokes were corroded intothe hub, I had to grab them in Vice grips and wiggle them until they broke free. I thought they were just steel but found theywere originally chrome plated. The front ones look like stainless.Where can I get 4-3/8" SS spokes? ThanksRoy
Thanks Charlie, I will give them a call.
For what its worth the best way I have found to clean those aluminum cases (by hand) is to use WD40 and a green scotchbrite pad.
Roy- We have a vapour blaster here in Chilliwack that does good work at a reasonable price. As an aside,I have lots of loop parts left over if you need anything. (shipping is cheap,beer!) Harold :BEER:
What is the purpose of this little hole?
More Questions,I had a bit of spare time this evening so I thought I would try polishing the rear Borani rim. First of all I brushed off most of the corrosion with a brass wire hand brush, then I attacked it with a buffing wheel and Brown Tripoli polish, this seemed to stick to the rim in places protecting it from the polishing wheel, what am I doing wrong?In places where the polish didn't stick it seems to be scrubbing up nicely.I was wondering if I should start off with a sandpaper, I have 400, 800, 2000 grit along with my Brown Tripoli, White Diamond and Red RougeWhat is the best way to preserve the finish once I get it looking decent, I'm not much of a spit and polish guy, should I clear coat the rims and hubs?Thanks in advanceRoy
"...........what's the secret to getting these out?"I'd like to know too ;D
A couple more questions for the expertsGasket cement, i seem to recall someone said no cement on the base gasketWhat is a good cement for where it's needed?Are there ''O" rings on every cylinder bolt, where do they go in relation to the washer and nut?Is it best to cement the valve cover gasket to the cover or to the head.Thanks in advance.Roy
The valves are in pretty good shape for 130,000 miles but the guides are shot, almost 0.3mm side to side play, luckily I had anticipated this and bought a new set.I tried pounding on one with a brass drift and hammer, all to no effect, what's the secret to getting these out?
Put it in an oven at 200-250 degrees F. It'll take a bit for the head to heat soak. Put the new guides in the freezer overnight, and install them while the head is still hot.Dunno about gasket goo, I don't use it unless I have a big floppy gasket with lots of screw holes to line up like the timing case. Then I just use some aerosol spray a gasket on one side.
... the kit I ordered 52510 doesn't look to have the correct gaskets but I assume MG Cycle know what they are doing. I ordered new floats, I seem to recall some are attacked by Ethanol, mine are green and haven't seen gas for about 25 years. Speaking of which I have a gallon of 25 YO vintage gas, no Ethanol. stinks to high heaven, does it mature with age like Scotch? I managed to sort out the valve guides, at least the old valves will slide in now although a bit tight I think. I assume whoever does the seats will be able to take care of thatI couldn't see head nuts on MG Cycle, a few of mine are looking rusty thru sitting 20 years in a damp cardboard carton.A couple of items I know I'm short of is a front engine bolt (I had to saw through it to get the engine out) and also the splined lever that mounts onto the footbrake shaft that pulls on the brake rod, that suffered a similar ending, if anyone has something like that they would sell me.
52510 are the correct carb gaskets kits, you'll actually have a few pieces you won't use.Your green floats are much preferred over the white ones IMO. You'll be lucky if the white ones don't start to leak very early on. I might be able to round up some head nuts for you, but it won't be until the weekend. Bitterly cold here the next few days. Might be able to come up with an engine bolt too. The "splined lever" - do you mean the L shaped piece?