So an update! At long last...
The project took a halt when I found this.
I was a bit disturbed, and knew this was going to cost me some money... money I didn't (still kind of don't!) have.
So I delayed, and delayed... until I had some free time to free the engine and Chuck said I could swing by with the sad mill.
So I removed all cables, evap hose, transmission bolts and engine mounts. You have to pull the fairing on a V11 LeMans as well to do this. Next Guzzi, buy naked. ;) ;D
So, I loaded it into my VW and brought it to Chuck. Who reminds me that he *is not* a Guzzi mechanic. ;-T
So Chuck and I began to dig in. We had the help of Pete/Vasco's advice from here ->
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/gb_en_complex-technical_engine-strip-pictures.htmThanks Pete. ;-T
First we got each cylinder to top dead center and checked compression.
Chuck's technique was to watch the valves move as they should both be closed, and on the compression stroke. We watched the valves... used a small wooden dowel/chopstick to find the piston, and looked at the flywheel for the cylinder marks.
"S"
is the driver's left cylinder I suppose, and "D" is the
driver's right. I always get confused on trying to describe cylinders orientation on bikes...
We used this compression tester which fits into the spark plug hole.
We also had to use handyandy's flywheel locking tool when compressing cylinder D. Thanks Andy!
I can't seem to find the note right now... but compression was "good" on the S side, 78/80 psi I believe. D was not quite as good at 76/80. The issues were that "S" was leaking through the exhaust, and "D" was leaking past the rings into the crankcase, and slightly through the intake. We later learned why the exhaust leak was there on S...
Next, we pulled the upper components of each cylinder. We did this at top dead center on each cylinder, so there was no tension from open valve positions or anything...
Use your valve covers as a storage bin of sorts. ;)
At this point we ran into a stud that was frozen solid on cylinder D. Chuck went looking for a breaker bar in his Guzzi Garge™... so I took some pics of the valves using a flashlight.
Exhaust valve S
Intake valve S
Exhaust valve D
Intake valve D
So I'm already thinking "ugh those valves look nasty..." and a head rebuild is probably in the plans... but onward!
Make sure to pull the head's oil line before removing the head studs.
We pulled the rest of the components with relative ease.
Chuck had the genius idea of labeling and sorting things properly. Here is the pushrod box idea he had! I'll never forget these ideas... thanks Chuck.
So we label the box for "S" and "D" cylinder, and then for
Intake and
Exhaust. I was told that the pushrods break into the lifters and the lifter to the cam, so on and so forth... keep them sorted!
Here is cylinder "D"'s head free! As you can see, the top stud is completely removed... because the end securing nut was frozen solid on there. No big deal, but odd.
Chuck labeled that sucker.
We tried to pull the cylinder without going past the piston's rings... but to no avail on cylinder "D".
Next you have to remove the clips holding the piston pin to the small ends of the connecting rods.
This is where I was thinking some damage might be, but the bearings look good. Chuck measured all of the bearings in the engine, and none were out of spec.
I'm going to skip the removal of cylinder "S". It was the same process, but I made sure to prevent the con rod of cylinder "D" from knocking around when we switched to TDC on "D".
Also, we used a rubber mallet to free the cylinder from the gaskets. There are two o rings on each clyinder where the base gasket goes, the top and bottom studs. They will need removed and replaced with new.
Next, we remove the con rods.
Cylinder "D"'s rod I believe here. It had some scratch/damage but measured to spec. Chuck thinks all bearings and re-usable.
The "S" rod looked new...
Now we can peek in on the crank.
Not sure what happened to my pics, but we removed each lifter and labeled them for the cylinder and whether it was exhaust or intake. They all looked great.
Now we're really confused as to where those flakes came from. No sign of the damage yet...
We take the front cover and timing components off. Be sure to have your 32mm deep socket. Thanks again Fotoguzzi for letting me borrow yours!
At this stage we began to bag each set of components. Be sure not to lose your oil pump key, crankshaft key, etc. other small parts! The washer for the oil pump pulley was broken... I must have done it I think. :-\
We then removed the pieces of the clutch and flywheel assembly. We used air tools as it helped reduce the spinning effect of the assembly, and made this job much faster! Lots of bolts...
Hmm... more photos that are missing. I might add them later here if I can find them. Basically a lot of bolts and a particular order to the plates, with springs in there as well. collect your parts and bag em'!
Now... in Pete's manual there were some worries about removal the rear main and front main bearings... but in my engine, they popped out with ease only requiring some light taps! No bearing removal tools necessary.
Another good looking bearing surface.
We pulled the crank out the back, and measured it. All looks well...
Next, we pull the phonic wheel from the cam.
We thought maybe the damage was from the cam thrust plate, but it looks new!
Here's the cam, minor wear but nothing bad. Will definitely reuse this...
So we notice some metal grit in the oil sitting below the oil pump. Time for that baby to come out.
Oh my.
It was missing a bearing!
.
See this thread if you want to read more about our bearing mystery->
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=73169.msg1141270#msg1141270We came to the conclusion that when the engine was last torn apart for a case replacement under warranty, the bearing may have been lost. *shrug* Oh well.
We pulled the front main bearing. Here is the oil passage for it... bearing looks good as well.
I find the Guzzi engine design to be pretty on the inside. ;)
Next, we open the crank sludge trap. Bound to be more of that metal shrapnel stuck in there. Cleaning it is a *must* otherwise a rebuild will just remain contaminated.
It was a tight bolt! It was staked in so it wouldn't spin out... it wasn't going anywhere. lol
Looking in was impossible with focusing the camera, but trust me... it was nasty sludge.
Chuck took the crank over to his clean machine which had water and some crazy solvent to clean steel. You can't use it on aluminum parts though, it would dissolve the aluminum!
Reset our plug and we have a cleaned out crank.
Now... the only parts we haven't torn down yet are the heads. We wanted to avoid that, but we found the source of our copper colored flakes to be... *drumroll*
BROKEN EXHAUST SPRINGS AND VALVE GUIDE!!! Ding Ding Ding! We have a winner!
Being who he is, Chuck happened to have a valve compression tool he *made* for his Lario rebuild.
Here he is using the chopstick to remove the locking caps from the valve assembly. Don't lose those tiny suckers...
Ouch. We believe a piece of the valve spring went down the heads into the sump and were sucked into the oil pump. Hence the earlier damage seen.
The source of the flakes!
We lightly cleaned out the heads where we saw some contaminate... but they'll need rebuild anyways I'm sure.
Well kids that's all I've got for now. We boxed everything and bagged a ton of little parts. My engine is now something like 9 boxes of parts. :o ;D
I'm not sure what the cost for headwork and parts will be. I'll likely compile the list of things to order soon. It's been a learning experience for sure...
Hopefully I'll have the bike back together and running by Spring! Only thing left after the engine will be body work and a transmission rebuild. Why stop here? ;)
I'll just be glad to have learned more about the bike in general, and I'm happy if my forum friends are entertained.
-Joe
P.S. My wife and I are entertaining the idea of a move to Germany... if it happens, this bike will sadly go up for sale. I don't know if/when this will happen yet though... but if anyone here might be interested in buying my bike from me please let me know. It would be fairly priced, and once it's done... you'll have a fairly well refreshed V11 LeMans. ;)