V65 1986

[Faab]

Hey, I'm Faab. As I said in the introduction page I'm restoring a 1986 V65 that used to be from the Spanish police.
This topic will show the progress, and setbacks, while restoring it.

As obliged, here is a foto


I'm thinking about giving it a cruiser/brat look, without changing the original parts.

[Chuck in Indiana]

welcome, Faab..  ;D

[drums4money]

Welcome, Faab.
Looking forward to watching your progress.

[kevdog3019]

I like builds! Welcome and make it yours. 

[mwrenn]

Cool dat!  Welcome!  Looking forward to seeing, and hearing about your progress!  Nice bike!

[Faab]

Thanks for the warm welcome.

I bought the bike running, but last time I tried to fire it up it didn't want to any more. I've tried a lot by now and it doesn't want to start, does anyone have tips or advice to get it going again?
The bike is partly stripped, and the electronics were a mess, half of the wires are changed for red, grey or black ones and wire are twisted together instead of soldered.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Thanks for the warm welcome.

I bought the bike running, but last time I tried to fire it up it didn't want to any more. I've tried a lot by now and it doesn't want to start, does anyone have tips or advice to get it going again?
The bike is partly stripped, and the electronics were a mess, half of the wires are changed for red, grey or black ones and wire are twisted together instead of soldered.

<sigh> Another electrical bodge on an old Guzzi. You'll have to get that sorted before troubleshooting why it doesn't run.
Start here:
This is probably the wiring diagram for your bike.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1986_V65_Florida.gif

[Kiwi_Roy]

Referencing the drawing Chuck attached
Look for 12 Volts at the common Red between the two coils (26)
If it's ok there check the common Red for each module (27)
Spend some time around the coils and modules making the wires secure there it will be time well spent.

If you don't have 12V at (26) work your way backwards following the white wire trail thru the kill switch, to ignition switch.

Might I suggest adding a large in line fuse (40 Amps) at the battery where all the red wires take off, with all the bodgie wiring it will
blow if you get a short rather than set the bike on fire.

[Faab]

Referencing the drawing Chuck attached
Look for 12 Volts at the common Red between the two coils (26)
If it's ok there check the common Red for each module (27)
Spend some time around the coils and modules making the wires secure there it will be time well spent.

If you don't have 12V at (26) work your way backwards following the white wire trail thru the kill switch, to ignition switch.

Might I suggest adding a large in line fuse (40 Amps) at the battery where all the red wires take off, with all the bodgie wiring it will
blow if you get a short rather than set the bike on fire.

So, I'll make a quick list
1) there already is a 40Amp fuse at the battery  ;-T
2) Mine doesn't have a module, V65 is a slightly different elec. diagram
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/7e/9a/10/7e9a10893242d1577f84ca40671dead5.jpg
3) I measured current coming from the ignition switch and going to the rotor. On the right side they're the same, but on the left side 12V arrives but only 1.2V goes to the rotor.
Soooooo, yeah I don't really know. Help please.
4) next I checked the resistances with my ohm-meter: right 36ohms, left 31ohms. This might be because the coils are different because one was recently changed.

I won't be working on it untill next week, I'm hoping for answers mean time.

Thanks for all your help so far

Extra: I came across a 750block for little cash. Since my insurance company wants to keep the frame and engine numbers matching I was thinking of fitting the 650block with the 750 cranck, pistons, cilinders, heads and cam. Is this possible?? Preferably none to little modifications, I already checked bearing numbers and they match.

[pehayes]

Welcome Faab:  You might also consider joining and following the discussion forum for "small_block_guzzi" over at Yahoo Groups (you need to use the underscores).  Lots of people there have intimate knowledge of the 350-500-650-750 series of engines and transmissions.

Sorry about the bogus wiring.  When I worked as a mechanic, we had a shop sign:
"labor rate $30 per hour"
"if you watch, $50 per hour"
"if you worked on it first, $75 per hour"
Now you see the reason for our sign.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[mwrenn]

So, I'll make a quick list
1) there already is a 40Amp fuse at the battery  ;-T
2) Mine doesn't have a module, V65 is a slightly different elec. diagram
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/7e/9a/10/7e9a10893242d1577f84ca40671dead5.jpg
3) I measured current coming from the ignition switch and going to the rotor. On the right side they're the same, but on the left side 12V arrives but only 1.2V goes to the rotor.
Soooooo, yeah I don't really know. Help please.
4) next I checked the resistances with my ohm-meter: right 36ohms, left 31ohms. This might be because the coils are different because one was recently changed.

I won't be working on it untill next week, I'm hoping for answers mean time.

Thanks for all your help so far

Extra: I came across a 750block for little cash. Since my insurance company wants to keep the frame and engine numbers matching I was thinking of fitting the 650block with the 750 cranck, pistons, cilinders, heads and cam. Is this possible?? Preferably none to little modifications, I already checked bearing numbers and they match.

What are your goals for changing the engine internals?  Is the old engine in bad shape?  The difference between the 750 and the 650 is the stroke.  So you are talking about a major disassembly to swap out the crank.  I would be tempted to just get it running and ride it.  If you want more power you can put on a big bore kit pretty easily.

[lawries]

Also replacing 650 internals with 750 parts may require a change to the ignition and charging systems as I doubt they are the same and the cam and crank shape will probably be different. Difficult to be specific without exact model info but, more effort than its worth IMHO.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Also replacing 650 internals with 750 parts may require a change to the ignition and charging systems as I doubt they are the same and the cam and crank shape will probably be different. Difficult to be specific without exact model info but, more effort than its worth IMHO.

Yep, the cam's different. 

[Faab]

Indeed Patrick I understand, but I would be guilty as well.

SO, I was planning on doing a complete rebuild of the engine. All new gaskets, checking the gears/bearing, ...
That means I was gonna pull the engine apart anyway (when I get is running again of course)
The odometer says 2.000km. So either the bike has been driven 1year and has been sitting since, has 102.000km on it, or the gauges have been reinstalled.

It would be from a nevada 750, carb., 2valve, year unknown. I checked the alternator numbers and indeed it would need a new one. Anyway, now I'm gonna wait with the 750  onversion untill I get it road worthy again.

New update next week