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But how many beers did it take to do it? That's the real measure.
The cylinder head nuts were adequately tight, but I re-torqued them anyway (cold), to 42 Nm (center nuts), 25 Nm (bottom nuts) and 28 Nm (top nut). After re-torqueing these,
Have they changed the torque specs for the new small blocks?
Best of my knowledge no, I can see no reason to change anything. AFAIK it was still something like 30-32 ft/lbs for the big ones and 22 for the top stud. ???Pete
Not sure what you mean by "new". The engines on the '13 V7 and '16 V7II are identical. My torque values come from the workshop manuals. Earlier (e.g., 2TB) engines might have different torque specs, but I haven't checked. [UPDATE: THE BOTTOM TWO NUTS SHOULD BE TIGHTENED TO 42 Nm, NOT 25 Nm. SEE LATER POSTS ON THIS THREAD.]
Dumb question, but is tightening the heads part of the first service procedure? I have a 2014 Norge (I know, different motor) and the manual says nothing about re-torquing the head bolts, just curious as I'm getting ready to do my first service.
Sib, I think that the -9 in the plug specification may refer to 0.9mm. I looked at one of mine today and it was about 0.9mm.CheersBrian
I think Sign's photo essays of service for his V7C are probably the most thorough source you'll find to support the factory literature for recent smallbkocks.
As of yesterday, I had managed to put on nearly 700 mi, overdue for the initial service.The cylinder head nuts were adequately tight, but I re-torqued them anyway (cold), to 42 Nm (center nuts), 25 Nm (bottom nuts) and 28 Nm (top nut). After re-torqueing these, I measured the valve gaps, which were tight (~0.10 mm intake, ~0.15 mm exhaust). I adjusted them to spec 0.15 mm intake and 0.20 mm exhaust. [UPDATE: THE BOTTOM TWO NUTS SHOULD BE TIGHTENED TO 42 Nm, NOT 25 Nm. SEE LATER POSTS ON THIS THREAD.] I didn�t even get dirty doing it!