advice on a 2007 norge

[dadsafrantic]

hey all.  i'm wondering what the difficulties will be with a 2007 norge with only 2500 miles on the clock.  it seems like any bugs or quirks or fails won't have come up in that amount of miles.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/mcy/d/2007-moto-guzzi-1200-norge/6292220473.html

opinions please.

[pete roper]

Usual CARC bike things like dry swingarm bearings and shock linkage would be the main issues but being red and an early one there is the potential for oil pump rotor failure too.

Pete

[guzzisteve]

That won't last, better snap it up.

[ITSec]

2007 models, particularly earlier ones and red ones, may or will have the following issues:

- Oil pump failure (due to lobe problems). If likely based on engine number, replace oil pump preemptively.
- Weak rear spring. The rear spring and shock are adequate for the rider alone, but add gear, a passenger or both and they are not up to the task.
- Access to oil port on sump. From the photos, I can see this one has not had the modification done. To access the oil port and dipstick, you have to remove the lower bodywork. MG offers a package including a new oil dipstick, the port plug that holds it, a rubber plug for a hole in the bodywork, and a template to allow you to cut a port with a hole saw in the left side panel. This would upgrade the bike to the same design as 2008 and later.
- Tires. With so few miles, I'd bet those tires have never been replaced. They've aged out and are unsafe.
- Servicing. Again, with so few miles, I'd service it before riding as if it needed a full service, all fluids, valve adjustment, etc., etc. etc. Plan on an early replacement of the alternator belt since it has probably suffered some dry rot. They often last 50,000+ miles, but they have a time limit too, just like tires.
- Fuel filter. Having sat so long, I'd bet the fuel filter plastic has swelled. There's an ongoing difference of views on whether this actually constitutes a problem, but there's no doubt that sitting isn't good for fuel and consequently isn't good for fuel filters. Since you're going to replace it anyway, replace it with an all metal filter and be safe.

That's a start - no doubt there will be other things to check. With care, a machine like this can become a virtually new machine despite its build date. It can also become an ongoing aggravation if you assume it somehow passed the last seven years in suspended animation.

[dadsafrantic]

Usual CARC bike things like dry swingarm bearings and shock linkage would be the main issues but being red and an early one there is the potential for oil pump rotor failure too.

Pete

thanks pete.  it's me with the capo and mana.  i'm not stalking you...really.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Usual CARC bike things like dry swingarm bearings and shock linkage would be the main issues but being red and an early one there is the potential for oil pump rotor failure too.

Pete

Pete,
       The CARC looks like an impregnable fortress to me at first glance, I never thought I would have to worry about it now I'm faced with the 2007 Griso at 32,000 km.
Have you done a tutorial on servicing these and are there any special tools required?
Do you have to dismantle the rear end?
I assume all the CARC bikes are similar.
Honda drive shaft grease ok for the splines?
Thanks a lot
Roy

[Xlratr]

Pete,
       The CARC looks like an impregnable fortress to me at first glance, I never thought I would have to worry about it now I'm faced with the 2007 Griso at 32,000 km.
Have you done a tutorial on servicing these and are there any special tools required?
Do you have to dismantle the rear end?
I assume all the CARC bikes are similar.
Honda drive shaft grease ok for the splines?
Thanks a lot
Roy

Roy, I'm assuming the CARC isn't broken and you're just thinking about greasing the linkages and splines? The CARC is very simple to remove. Just undo the 4 bolts holding it to the swing arm and pull it off! [emoji3]. You don't even need to drain the oil.



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[Chuck in Indiana]

That's a start - no doubt there will be other things to check. With care, a machine like this can become a virtually new machine despite its build date. It can also become an ongoing aggravation if you assume it somehow passed the last seven years in suspended animation.

This is the best advice you can get. The guy that "don't fix nothing if it ain't broke" is just riding a machine that is ready to break. Taking a weekend and really going through one..especially the electrical system.. will pay big dividends.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Roy, I'm assuming the CARC isn't broken and you're just thinking about greasing the linkages and splines? The CARC is very simple to remove. Just undo the 4 bolts holding it to the swing arm and pull it off! [emoji3]. You don't even need to drain the oil.
 
[/quote

Xlratr, that's re-assuring, so pulling the back end off exposes the splines or whatever needs grease, I just did my VII Sport the other day, that's a job and a half.
SO I assume removing the rear end to grease the suspension is no big drama also?

I assume the 2007 Greaso and the Norge are very similar at the back end

[pete roper]

All the CARC bike back ends are identical. The most difficult thing on later bikes, (Yours I think predates this.) is that in I believe about 2010 they started glueing the bevelbox to the swingarm with silastic to prevent oil seepage around the joint. The way the boot at the front of the bevelbox is sealed can be a bit hit or miss and if it doesn't crush down ideally minor weeping or misting can be visible at the join. 99% of the time all it will be is enough to attract dust but it concerned a lot of owners so the factory started using the silastic. The downside is that it meets the bevelbox assembly won't just wriggle off the back of the swingarm any more. My solution is to use a bottle jack between the back of the shock linkage and the ABS sensor mount and jacking it a bit. This will separate the case from the swingarm but you often need to get into the crack with a screwdriver to pry the boot retainer plate out of the goo the've slapped on.

Remember the bevelbox is both heavy and cumbersome. It really helps to have a second set of hands if you are having to pry apart cases sealed with a lot of silastic! When they first started doing this mod they really slathered it on! (Would they had done this with grease in the swingarm bearings and shock linkage! If they had you wouldn't of been needing to bloody go in to do it!) later bike tend to have the snot applied slightly more abstemiously.

Look, I haven't done a photo essay on this yet, (although I think Leafman may of done one a while back?) but Jude is going under the knife today so I'll be sitting around in a hospital twiddling my thumbs and worrying so perhaps writing one will give me something to take my mind off things while some oaf is rummaging about inside her.

Pete

[Xlratr]

Roy, I'm assuming the CARC isn't broken and you're just thinking about greasing the linkages and splines? The CARC is very simple to remove. Just undo the 4 bolts holding it to the swing arm and pull it off! [emoji3]. You don't even need to drain the oil.
 
[/quote

Xlratr, that's re-assuring, so pulling the back end off exposes the splines or whatever needs grease, I just did my VII Sport the other day, that's a job and a half.
SO I assume removing the rear end to grease the suspension is no big drama also?

I assume the 2007 Greaso and the Norge are very similar at the back end

Pulling off the CARC from the swing arm will expose the splines at the rear. If you want to grease the splines at the front and grease the swing arm bearings you need to remove the swing arm itself. I'm not familiar with the 2 Valve Griso so I'm assuming here that the process is similar to that of the CARC drive Stelvio, in which case it is also quite straight forward.
Remove the two clamp screws from the left side of the swing arm close to the pivot and remove the bush (4 slots) at the end of the pivot with a c spanner or special tool (that's the only "special tool" you need).
Then you just unscrew the swing arm pivot pin with a large (can't remember what size) allen wrench. You can now pull off the rubber boot at the front of the shaft and pull off the swing arm.  You now have access to the swing arm bearings. You can remove the clip securing the shaft to the gearbox output and pull off the shaft to grease the front splines. That's it really.
Now you have easy access to all the linkages and bearings for the shock absorber which can be disassembled and greased.
Hope there's no big difference to the 8v CARC models and that I haven't told you a load of nonsense, but I guess the CARCs and swing arms themselves are the same as the 8vs.
John



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[pete roper]

Nah, that's basically it apart from with all models apart from Stelvio and I think Bellagio you need to remove the footrest hanger plates as well as they cover the swingarm spindle.

When removing the shock linkage for greasing take care not to dislodge and loose the top hat bush from the swingarm as well.

On some models you also need to remove the exhaust.

Allen key for swingarm spindle is 14 mm.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Thanks Pete / John
Sounds like something I can handle then.
Pete, all the best for your wife.


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[Chuck in Indiana]

Look, I haven't done a photo essay on this yet, (although I think Leafman may of done one a while back?) but Jude is going under the knife today so I'll be sitting around in a hospital twiddling my thumbs and worrying so perhaps writing one will give me something to take my mind off things while some oaf is rummaging about inside her.

May she have a good a mechanic as you, Pete..

[Huzo]

hey all.  i'm wondering what the difficulties will be with a 2007 norge with only 2500 miles on the clock.  it seems like any bugs or quirks or fails won't have come up in that amount of miles.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/mcy/d/2007-moto-guzzi-1200-norge/6292220473.html

opinions please.

When you pull the swingarm pivot spindle to grease the races, be careful you don't dislodge the seal on the right side that's supposed to slow down water ingress into the tapered rollers. I made a couple of spacers to go in there to stop that happpening.
Also a Teo Lamers dipstick extension mod will save you tearing off the lower left fairing to check the level. (What a bastard !) And speaking of levels, don't add more oil than necessary, there are consequences to overfilling..

[guzzibob]

The oil pump issue is too rare to even consider unless the build date is 10-11/06, and even then there were only a few. Take off the seat, pull the bolt at the rear of the tank and pull the tank back like an inch so you can see the plate with the build date under the very front of the tank above the steering head. I don't worry about it for a second on my 07 Norge built 4/07 with over 50k on it.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Since both our bikes have the same back end you might refer to this from time to time.

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=92204.0

[Huzo]

Re the oil pump issue. Mine's a red '07 so is near the danger zone, although a bit lucky on the build date.
135,000 and no problems. Never even looked at it.