Stornello #742

[guzzisteve]

I know about the bike, but I want to know how you like that stand? I been looking at just that type, which one is it? 
Not for my bikes, they have stands, something to throw in the truck when I go service bikes w/o stands.(I do house calls)

[Bulldog9]

I know about the bike, but I want to know how you like that stand? I been looking at just that type, which one is it? 
Not for my bikes, they have stands, something to throw in the truck when I go service bikes w/o stands.(I do house calls)

I bought it from Amazon, price has gone up, was $49.00  Works good, but it does slide on the garage floor when putting on or off stand without someone putting a foot on it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B5S3BKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[guzzisteve]

Thanks, there are different makes of the same stand. I have a fix for it moving, rubber matt for truck tailgate. Used them on floor in my shop between bike tables, got them at Farm & Fleet.

[Bulldog9]

The stand is super convenient and you can use ratchet straps to stabilize it. Have used on the Stornello front and back and the Griso and Norge on the front, havent tried back. The Chock holds it in place pretty well, but I will use straps if I have to jack the bike up to remove the tire, etc.

[usedtobefast]

 Almost DOUBLE the travel of the stock shock.

I would be temped to take off the springs of the new shocks, install them on the bike, slowly lift the rear wheel (with a jack), and see how high the rear wheel will go.  Seems if you have longer travel it may allow the rear wheel to contact the rear fender (and other bits) when fully bottomed? 

Making up some numbers, say the eye-to-eye length is 3/4" more ... and the shock travel is 2" more ... sounds like the rear wheel will be coming up a significant amount ... simple math would be 1 1/4", but due to the shocks position it would be even more than that. 

[dave1068]

Great write up, Im thinking about picking one up for a 2nd bike.

-When you have a minute can you tell me what the width is at the handlebars? (im thinking 30" or less) I'm hoping to take it out the side dog date and not use the driveway.

Thanks and good luck

-Dave

[jpv7]

**Update**

Went to install the Hagons this morning and hoped to get a couple hours of riding in before the obligatory 'honey do's'

NO MAS - the mounts/posts on the bike are 12MM, and the bushings in the shock eye are 10MM.  I sent them an e-mail, will see what they say.  So I decided to go for a ride anyway and am really enjoying the new K-TECH fork springs. The front end feels much more substantial, soaks up bumps nicely and never crashes or bottoms out like it used to. Before, it just felt sloppy and insubstantial. I was going to change the fork oil to lighter, but wanted to wait and see how the springs felt. If anything, I may go thicker to get a bit more damping, but will revisit after I get the Hagons on....

Here is a comparison of the shocks, they are built for my weight and have Hagons 'Enduro' valving. Almost DOUBLE the travel of the stock shock.





Because the neither the Stornello or Griso have a center stand, I bought this cheap garage stand for $49, works really nice.

Don't stop at just the front springs...Race Tech has a gold valve emulator that will do wonders and is not very difficult or expensive to install.  Tech support is great.  Reach out if you want more details.  Did my V7ii and it's great!

[Bulldog9]

To be more precise, the effective travel of the shock is twice that of stock. whether or not that will result in twice the actual suspension travel is probably harder to measure.

I can say is when I swapped out the shocks the suspension dropped about three quarters of an inch lower to be able to attach to the new shocks. Because of much softer springing the overall ride height increased by about half an inch.

Bottom line, based on the length of exposed piston, the travel of the shock is double that of the stock shock.
And taking some measurements it looks as though even fully compressed the rear tire will not hit the fender.

The haggens have a black rubber bushing on the Piston to show how far the suspension is compressed while riding. I haven't really pushed things or Don off road since I put on the new shocks but in some light gravel and dirt road riding and my normal routes, it's only compressed about 3/4. the new shocks and springs are far more compliant than the stock and a little bit softer than my Norge. will definitely report back as I get more time and experience on them.

I would be temped to take off the springs of the new shocks, install them on the bike, slowly lift the rear wheel (with a jack), and see how high the rear wheel will go.  Seems if you have longer travel it may allow the rear wheel to contact the rear fender (and other bits) when fully bottomed? 

Making up some numbers, say the eye-to-eye length is 3/4" more ... and the shock travel is 2" more ... sounds like the rear wheel will be coming up a significant amount ... simple math would be 1 1/4", but due to the shocks position it would be even more than that.

[Bulldog9]

I'll take some measurements when I get the chance. no question these are the narrowest handlebars I've had on a bike in many years. With the stock mirrors I couldn't see past my shoulders. I had put the larger Aprilia mirrors on the griso, the arms are about 2 in longer then the ones that came on the stornello. I swapped them out and they are perfect. I actually like the stock mirrors from the stornello better on the griso so it was a win-win.

Great write up, Im thinking about picking one up for a 2nd bike.

-When you have a minute can you tell me what the width is at the handlebars? (im thinking 30" or less) I'm hoping to take it out the side dog date and not use the driveway.

Thanks and good luck

-Dave

[flat out]

Nice updates and pics.
t.

[Bulldog9]

Using the winter months to make a few more updates/upgrades.

Stelvio hand guards.  Great kit from AF1 with the guards, bar end weights and hardware.

While these bolt straight up to CARC bikes (Stelvio, Norge, Griso) the placement of the MC and clutch cable created the need to make up a small extension plate. I still need to finish rounding edges and painting. I usually use a high temp ceramic paint and bake it to help with longevity. I also like the Rustoleum Professional Series paints. Best Rattle can I've used.










50/50 chooser

[Bulldog9]

Width of the Handlebars is 28.5" This is to the center of the end of the grip, not weight.

For Comparison, the Griso is 33" and Norge 30"

Great write up, Im thinking about picking one up for a 2nd bike.

-When you have a minute can you tell me what the width is at the handlebars? (im thinking 30" or less) I'm hoping to take it out the side dog date and not use the driveway.

Thanks and good luck

-Dave

[Bulldog9]

Also added the HB Crash bars. Of course these are probably NOT gonna do more than protect in an easy drop, and will be worthless on hard surfaces or particularly at any speed. I do hope that when I drop while on softer dirt or gravel they will help protect the heads/cyls.











 


The ower part of the bar is connected with a long bolt that passes through the lower motor mounts and passes through the engine case. The upper bar mounts to this sturdy plate that mounts to the ears for the horns and rectifier. NOT the sturdiest, but the placement wedged against the frame and multiple connection points make for a very stable mounting.  ***Word of advice. WAIT until you get the actual crash bars mounted to the bike and upper mount before tightening down the upper mount and remounting the rectifier. I'm sure thats what the instructions say, but I dont usually do more than look at a picture. The tolerances are pretty tight, so having some adjustment in the mounting plate is essential.

[Bulldog9]

Nice quick ride this Sunday. Installed a new MRA vario touring windscreen. The bikes looking a little bit too busy for my taste, but I appreciate the extra protection in the cold weather.

[twowheeladdict]

Also added the HB Crash bars. Of course these are probably NOT gonna do more than protect in an easy drop, and will be worthless on hard surfaces or particularly at any speed. I do hope that when I drop while on softer dirt or gravel they will help protect the heads/cyls.











 


The ower part of the bar is connected with a long bolt that passes through the lower motor mounts and passes through the engine case. The upper bar mounts to this sturdy plate that mounts to the ears for the horns and rectifier. NOT the sturdiest, but the placement wedged against the frame and multiple connection points make for a very stable mounting.  ***Word of advice. WAIT until you get the actual crash bars mounted to the bike and upper mount before tightening down the upper mount and remounting the rectifier. I'm sure thats what the instructions say, but I dont usually do more than look at a picture. The tolerances are pretty tight, so having some adjustment in the mounting plate is essential.

That's why I call them tip over bars.  Unless they have 3 or more fastening points like on some adventure style bikes they are just there to save from more damage in a tip over.  I bought them for my Carbon solely for a place to mount my LED running lights.