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Thanks, missed that and that is weird, wonder what caused that to happen?
I have seen this many times, CARC's & newer run real hot compared to the single plug heads.NGK caps 90*, car wires cut to fit. ALL DONE. Theese will work------------https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_157&products_id=4691Arcing from loose plug cap that screws on.
I didn't want to jinx you on the gas tank removal, however, now that you have been initiated into the broken fuel connector club, you can obtain these replacement parts from Gutsibits, or you can even buy the metal one from BMW and cut into the lines so that future removal is much easier than the existing setup (which is made easier by buying the right tool to "squeeze/press/separate").Plastic version: https://www.gutsibits.co.uk/pr/TheShop/index.php?f=d&q=FUA01692Metal version: https://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html
That's a good find...hopefully it works.Last time I bought from Gutsibits I bought two of them, so I have a spare one still available...did you try calling them to see when they would get it back in stock?Might be worthwhile calling MG Cycle, Harpers, AF1 and see if any of them have it in stock as well...all stateside parts supplies for Guzzi.
I also took a look at the microswitch on the clutch lever assembly. Using my ohm meter and needle test method I determined that sure enough, it isn't closing. Any suggestions for a source of a new one?
Unfortunately they are back ordered. I have no idea what that clutch switch is for, and if mine is bad it’s never showed up as code on the dash. https://www.af1racing.com/filterSearch?adv=true&cid=0&mid=0&vid=0&q=Ap8113998&sid=true&isc=true&orderBy=20
I took mine off.It’s there so that you can start the bike in gear, but only with the lever in…(as I recall). I think if I put my Norge in gear on the side stand and hit the button it will jump forward with predictable results. I know for sure if you hit the starter in gear with the stand up, it WILL jump forward, the switch prevents this. Just another thing to bugger up…Anyway, mine began to give trouble, so I took it off and joined the wires 10 years ago.
Thanks, had no idea.
Yes, the clutch microswitch tells the bike that the clutch is pulled in so the starting motor will operate. Otherwise the starting motor won't operate unless you are in neutral.It is good to know that shorting out the leads will not have any unintended consequences. I'll do that until I can get the new switch installed. I stalled the bike this morning at a stop thinking I was in neutral and had to hunt around for neutral to get it started again. Embarrassing.
It also triggers something in the ECU to raise rpms a bit when first released.
Mine will start in gear with the clutch pulled in or out. So if you stall the bike, just pull the clutch in when you hit the starter.
Mine won't. Problem is that the microswitch on the clutch is broken. I have bought another and am waiting for an emptier gas tank to tackle it.
Micro switch on the clutch ?
Can’t you siphon it out or just ride it somewhere ?
Misspoke: Microswitch on the clutch lever.
Ok makes sense.But I just cut the switch off and joined the wires.
I didn't know if there would be unintended consequences to doing this, but if you have been successful it sounds like a good quick fix until I get to the switch swap.