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I asked a chemist at Petro Canada about ZDDP levels and what has been done to make oils better. He say the ZDDP is not the same as it used to be and is much better now requiring less than before. Seeing how long engines last these days I have to believe him.
Wow..all the petro-chemical experts here! Simply amazing. ;) 8)
youre completely missing the point ( and im surprised kev hasn;t jumped in. tho you are baiting him a bit )while i agree with your original post, and that the hydros could probably use a 50 or 60 wt especially if you live in the south where it hits 100 + the hydro part of it ( and this is important ) requires the 5w. a 10w would be risky, and a 20w just plain foolish. so until they start making a 5w-60, i'd stick with the 5w-40 that is recommended for the hydros
I asked a Castrol guy here the same question, he said the same as your Petro Canada guy.I ride SB's and they can get very hot, if pushed. My old V50/III lose power and the oil lamp starts going on at 1500rpm, then I know she's hot from spinning 7-8000rpm for an extended period of time.So I use the best 10W60 and add ZDDP to cover all bases although claimed not nessesary by the oil guy.Ciao
I'm in complete agreement with you about using the 5w40 because of the hydraulic lifters. Apparently Guzzi had them made to use 5w40, whereas Harley hydraulic lifters are made to use 20w50. Guzzi didn't, in my manual, allow any latitude from the use of 5w40, so I disagree with the selliing dealer's choice of 20w50 and 10w60. My point regards the needs of the other systems in the Cali engines. I don't have a parts manual, but I assume the other systems in the hydro engines use the same parts as in the mechanical tappet engines. If that is true, the other systems are fine with 5w40, 20w50, or 10w60. And if that is true, Guzzi is prescribing 20w50 and 10w60 for the sole purpose of lubricating the mechanical valve lifter system. Otherwise, the 5w40 is a compromise.I've been riding mostly air cooled bikes for 40 years. We have some traffic jams around Atlanta, so the use of a thinner oil makes me a little nervous. I'm not trying to bait anyone. I'm sorry if I offended anyone.
I just bought a new washing machine. It says some gibberish like 120 volts in the manualI'll just plug it into the old 220 volt dyer outlet.Hey, it's all electricity. It'll be twice as fast to wash stuff. :) ;) :D
My kid was going to buy an oil temp gauge like that for his Greenie from Gordon at MG . Gordon said, "What do you want that for? You can only see it when you're sitting still, and it's going to read hotter than you wanted to see, anyway." ;D ;DApparently, he was right again..
Wouldn't you have to use 20W120 then? ???
2000 miles JEZUS KEYRIST I never went that short with Dino juice.6k miles or a year with a quality synthetic.I go 10K on most cars these days, 15-18k on our old Mini with the oil life monitor.
In 35 years of working on Honda cars , I have seen a lot of engines gone south . Oils have gotten to be extremely good in the last 15 years but no customer of mine is going to use the oil monitor and go 10k 15k 18k on the same oil, not even 7500 miles if I have a say about it !!! I get to think about all the Byproducts of combustion , do some of that ends up in the sump with that 18k oil ?? Please ... Roberto.
Patrick Bedard, in Car and Driver, wrote an article about what he called the bunkum sticker, i.e. the 3000 mile oil change myth. He labeled it a marketing gimmick.
After reading all the interesting info I feel that my 2005 Nevada definitely deserves Agip 10W60 oil. The only problem is where to buy it in small quantity. I don't want to be stock with 6+ years of supply buying whole case on internet. Is anybody in similar situation in Try-state area and would like to share the internet purchase of a case of it. It would come to $11/litre shipped to my address in Brooklyn, NY. Anyone interested please e-mail me, Thanks, Mike (maciek188@yahoo.com)