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Series regulation instead of shunt? That just sounds better. Any source for the 847?
assuming battery is ok and not going to guzzle all the charge because confusing wierdness might happen if the system is overloaded:15v-15.4v working as designed and sub optimal15.4 up its broken.varying voltages (more than 0.5v) something is wrongunder 15v on an OEM r/r check wiring.
Thanks for that. Do we know if the SH847 will work in a two phase system?
The recommended limitation for charging LiFePO4 batteries, such as Shorai, is 3.65V per cell. For a 12V vehicle system this equates to a 4 cell battery x 3.65V = 14.6V. According to battery manufacturers, LiFePO4 will tolerate a charging voltage up to 3.70V per cell (14.8V) with a very slight degradation in lifespan of the battery. Lead acid batteries, including flooded cell and AGM, have an optimal charge rate of 3.65-3.70V per cell (14.6V-14.8V) as with LiFePO4. Absolute maximum tolerances for lead acid batteries are possibly 0.2V higher than LiFePO4 at 3.85V per cell, for a 4-cell battery = 15.4V but will seriously degrade the life of the battery.
Ok, checked 4 bikes today.2012 V7 Classic 21,000 miles: Idle 12.75 Revving 14.602013 V7 Special 1200 miles: Idle 13.45 Revving 14.722013 V7 Racer 4900 miles: (Rexxer Maps) Idle 12.65 Revving 14.29 2015 V7 Stone Mk2 240 miles: Idle 12.80 Revving 14.20
That said, they DID make a change to a lower output, but 3-phase stator with the wet alternator and maybe overcharging WAS the reason for it).<shrugs>
Sorry, I guess I still have more questions than answers because I want to know the hows and whys, even though I have made up my mind to replace the RR with an aftermarket replacement at this point.
And after seven pages of discussion and theory I have yet to see if anyone has just tried, as I have suggested, to disconnect the headlight bulb and then check regulation. Works on my bike but interested if the V7 reacts the same way. I really want to know because a V7 may be in my near future.
One more bit of confusion:Alternator = 270w a non mosfet R/R I understand will always use 5-10% of power on its shunt circuit.This is my guess at the power required by the bike:High beam 55Rear/Number plate 5Brake light 21Instrument panel 2ECU 25Fuel pump 55Electric ignition 40Battery Charging ~Total without brake light 182w but these are 12v ratings. Whats the headlight using at 15v?182/12x15= 227.5 , now if you cant get more than 250 from alternator then next to no spare capacity.So if a mosfet r/r drops the voltage slightly and consumes less power it looks like a good idea if you only have 270w alternator
I'd be surprised if the V7II VR works with the '13-'14 (USA) models. Those have a 350W dry alternator whereas the '15 V7 and '16 V7II models have a 270W wet alternator. I believe the cabling is also different.
Ah that makes sense I had thought the 270 was on the later engine. So the 350 carried over when the engine was changed.
Which engine change, oh do you mean the first change to single TB, then yes.To be clear (I think I've got this right now):2012-13 (EU)/2013-14 (US), 1TB V7: 350W, dry, single phase stator and 6-wire RR.2014+ (EU)/2015+ (US) 1TB V7 & V7II: 270W, wet, 3-phase stator w/ corresponding 7-wire RR
Are you sure about this, Kev? My V7II wiring diagram shows only two wires connecting the alternator to the regulator. The regulator actually has a three-terminal connector to the alternator, but only two of the terminals have wires, either at the end going to the alternator or the end going to the regulator (at least on the schematic I'm looking at). If you're looking at a different schematic, I like to know. Thanks, Sam
HOLD THE PRESSES! the 2015 and 16 have 7 wires. the white plug has 3 big yellow ones not 2. About 12 gauge. the black has 2 red with white stripe and 2 solid green. my guess 14 gauge.other things I have seen compared to a 2013 are different rear shock mfg. with totally different springs and one adjusting color. air filter is under the seat with I think 4 screws to hold on cover similar to a Stelvio. at least it shows the MFG is making some changes for the better.
OK, so I have transferred the plug for my heated gloves from my Suzuki TU250X to my V7II and even though it is 76 degrees here tonight when I ride my bike to the coast for dinner I will wear my heated gloves and will let you know if they worked when I get home.
arent we playing a little fast and loose with ohms law here. power consumed is the same regardless of voltage (otherwise my headlight would get brighter from 12v to 15v. So 55W headlamp at 15 volts draws less current. In your example you have the currents the same at 12 v AND 15 v. I think i'm correct. I've been fooling with this calc for 5 minutes and is only P=IV
If what you were saying were correct there would be no difference between a 12v bulb and a mains bulb they would be inter changable. Bulbs have resistance, 55w is the rating at 12v.v=ir i=v/r p=iv, admittedly as the filament gets hotter that does effect the resistance which may increase slightly. bulbs and heating elements will use more power at higher voltage.The point you make though may be correct for the ecu and the ignition system and other sophisticated components, it may be true for led lights because leds seem to be either on or off?
Fwiw Jay is running an LED headlight on one or both of his V7s that tested basically the same as mine +/- 0.1V
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