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Are they thermostatically controlled?
Regarding the heated gloves, the figures I used above were a bit of a guess but some alternate figures can be found below although I dont trust these because if you went by these ones a V7II with abs would require more power than the alternator puts out? ABS must use a good few watts? Im guessing some stuff has been getting more efficient recently and lower power alternator is about saving power too. whatever the case theres not going to be any excess power for gloves.http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity
New Guzzi owner!! Long time bike rider, mostly vintage, I like the old stuff. I have a 2015 V7 Stone, just got it last week gently previously owned 5400 miles. Already payed for the V7 when I found the over voltage posts here! So I was concerned about the over voltage. I had a nice ride yesterday 150 miles, did the voltage checks today!!Battery at rest 12.56 voltsswitch on 12.36 voltswhile starting 10.68 volts1000 rpm 13.10 volts3000rpm 14.30 volts4000rpm 14.50 voltsI am relieved!! that all seems well. I have learned on this line of questioning that it is very important that I keep an eye on the wiring, connections, and battery condition. If the wiring or connections appear scorched or slightly heated they need immediate attention to preclude Rectifier/regulator damage. Insure that battery connections and battery condition is monitored! Great to have a forum to visit when I have concerns! I will get my donation sent in support! Also will do the poll.
How did you get a "good" regulator when even Guzzi specs 15.1 volts?Is your regulator technically"bad"?Anyway good for you
New Guzzi owner!! -snip-Great to have a forum to visit when I have concerns! I will get my donation sent in support! Also will do the poll.
That's the part of this mystery that just stumps me.BTW, I found a schematic online today that supposedly is for the Ducati Engergia Regulator Guzzi Part # 32703810 which was used on the N7, B7, and V7C - part of the schematic reads:Voltage Regulator 15.5 +/- 0.5 VGo figure.According to the online parts manuals at Harpers that particular regulator was replaced starting on the 2011 V7R and all dry alternator V7 Stone/Special/Racers with # 883878 which appears to be the one that's giving everyone fits.
Would the old, pre 2011 regulator be a plug and play solution?
No adapter plate is needed to mount the Mosfet VR.The stock mounting holes can be easily elongated with a file or rotary cutter, 1/4"It takes 10 minutes 2 small spacers should be used on the mounting bolts to keep the VR wires away from the front engine cover
Just woke up my bike after winter hibernation. It fired right up after 2 months in the basement without a battery tender or other such device. I'm seeing 14.2 at idle, and 15.2 at 3-4000 rpm. Thoughts?
Are you comfortable with those numbers? Most cars operate at about a 14v charging rate. That's what I base my opinions on.
I just got back from the first ride of the season (about 62 when I left, and 50 now
First off, Kev m, thanks for the detailed summary so far. Much appreciated. I would agree with your advice, except...I just got back from the first ride of the season (about 62 when I left, and 50 now, crazy for early March in New England, but I digress) and retested the voltage. With what I presume is now a fully charged battery, I now get 12.8 at idle, and just barely touch 14.5 (14.45 actually) at 4000 rpm. I'm guessing that initially, the regulator was just compensating for a slightly weakened battery fresh out of hibernation. Now that it's fully charged, the regulator is regulating right in the sweet spot. If this hypothesis is correct, those of you that only tested voltage once fresh out of storage, you may want to take another look before changing out the regulator.
So, you became 12 years younger? Fantastic!
Well, I'm not the electrical engineer, so I'll leave that to Jay or some one smarter than me to explain if there's a battery sense circuit or not. But I was told not. And if true the RR doesn't compensate for a discharged battery per se.But for the record, to be certain myself. I charged my battery the night before my test. Then I rode about 60 miles and compared results from the cold start to the warm operation at the end of the ride. Peak voltages were identical.So I can't explain your results. Either there was a testing problem OR I've been misinformed. Or there is something else in the system that can effect voltages.
Hmmm, if the regulator is dumb as suspected, than my testing must have been off, though I did test several times both before and after the ride. I'll check again tomorrow, since it's supposed to touch 70 degrees. Thank you El Nino!
Well, I'm not the electrical engineer, so I'll leave that to Jay or some one smarter than me to explain if there's a battery sense circuit or not.
From looking at the schematic, it looks like the regulator just senses voltage at it's own output.A remote sense lead would only serve the purpose of it regulating so that the voltage at the remote sense lead point is at the desired voltage.Voltage regulators don't "know" how charged or discharged the battery is. They attempted to maintain a specified output voltage. If the batter is extremely discharged, it can drag this voltage down below the set point of the regulator, simply because the alternator can't keep the input voltage to the regulator high enough. This is also the case when running heavy loads such has heated gear, for a total load approaching or exceeding the capacity of the alternator.I know that on my V7C, when riding at night with heated gear an the high beam on, I could see the headlight dim with each cycle of the heat controller.
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