Author Topic: Bacon Slicer project  (Read 93796 times)

canuck750

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #150 on: October 17, 2017, 10:05:01 AM »
Brilliant  :thumb:

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #151 on: October 17, 2017, 08:02:49 PM »
Wow!  Thanks for sharing all these tricks. How do you dream all these fixes up?

     :wink:
1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Online Chuck in Indiana

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #152 on: October 17, 2017, 08:45:22 PM »
Attaboy..  :smiley:
Chuck in (Elwood) Indiana/sometimes SoCal
 
87 AeroLario
95 Skorpion tour
22 Royal Enfield Classic 3 fiddy
 "Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe."
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Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #153 on: October 22, 2017, 11:00:30 PM »
The woodruff key for the generator was hammered and sloppy so decided to file down a new one.  It took a couple tries.

       


Patrick Hayes helped with some clutch info (and an English translation of the shop manual!  Thanks Patrick.).  Once the flywheel and cover are off on the left, go to the right side and remove the clutch lever dome:

   


Remove the machined cap on the end of the clutch push-rod and you see that it is a bearing (with very worn balls).




Unthread the knurled knob to release the spring pressure on the clutch - it is left hand thread.

   


Then block the clutch basket on the left and unthread and remove the clutch push-rod which releases the sleeve with left-hand threads:

   


On the other side the clutch can come apart.  5 bronze and 5 steel plates plus two rings of asbestos(?) friction material. The geared clutch basket can then be removed.

           


1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Wildguzzi.com

Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #153 on: October 22, 2017, 11:00:30 PM »

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #154 on: October 22, 2017, 11:23:52 PM »
Clean up.  The threaded holes in the case were packed with grit.  The grit was so deep that some of the cover screws had been ground off to fit (this was also true of the timing cover on the right side).  Fortunately a new set of case screws came from Italy.  A look with a hand-lens showed the grit was largely broken quartz grains (glassy) with some darker minerals.  I've heard that many of these old Guzzis spent time in Libya and north Africa so was curious what Sahara sand looked like.  The photomicrograph is from Morocco and shows fewer dark minerals than I saw, but is similar in terms of size and angularity.  (Mountains around Mandello - and probably much of the Alps - are limestone) The sand and lack of care (grinding the screws rather than cleaning the holes) explains a lot of the wear.  I know I should pull the engine out of the frame and go through it, but not quite ready for that.... :tongue:  Amazing how tough these old singles are.
       


Cleaned the oil residue off the clutch plates and filed and burrs off.  Thickness of new bronze plates is 1mm.  These are thinner, but were working.




Jas67 noticed how dry the primary gears were. They normally get oil mist from the breather, but someone has added a spring over the check ball.  hmmm




Cleaned parts in simple green, laundry detergent, gasoline and brake clean...

           


Gears are worn, but not much I can do about it. 



« Last Edit: October 22, 2017, 11:38:12 PM by SED »
1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #155 on: October 23, 2017, 07:56:18 PM »
Owe a big Thank you to Patrick Hayes for help with this.

Reassemble clutch. Order of parts is 1st fiber friction ring, geared basket, 2nd fiber friction ring, then steel and bronze plates and finally the clutch cover.




Slip the left hand thread sleeve over the pushrod, and insert rod in from the right with some grease and thread it into the clutch cover on the left.  I found that threading it as far as possible (2 threads protruding) gave good clutch adjustment.

     



The throw-out bearing on the end of the clutch pushrod looked like it was missing a ball or two. 1/8" balls from the local Hardware Store and lots of moly grease did the trick.  You can see the cap in the photos below.

   



Install the two clutch springs and the left hand threaded knurled knob.

   



Playing with the length of the pushrod and adjustment indicated that the clutch pull gets stiffer as the bronze plates wear.  First picture shows throw-out bearing cap and hardened contact piece under the lever. Second shows cover on and clutch adjusted.

   


1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #156 on: October 23, 2017, 09:11:19 PM »
Slide generator into place (with rubber sealing washer), gingerly tighten repaired drive gear and adjust gear mesh by rotating generator in its cradle.



Engine drive gear is keyed to flywheel and had worn deep notches in flywheel.  I welded up the notches and filed them back into shape.  It is difficult to get the taper on the flywheel concentric with the bore of the drive gear without an arbor of some kind.  Too late I figured it out, but it's close - there is just enough slop to allow the drive gear to slide on the shaft. (the drive gear sits against a strong spring that works as an engine shock absorber)
   



Ready for the cover with new screws.  The cover presses against the drive gear and its cush spring so must be tightened (and loosened) evenly.   :bike-037:

     
1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Offline Muzz

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #157 on: October 24, 2017, 02:09:17 AM »
 :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:

Some really interesting stuff here.

That suggested 12 volt mod would make a world of difference to the lighting.
Muzz. Cristchurch, New Zealand
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Offline jas67

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #158 on: October 24, 2017, 08:11:05 AM »
 :popcorn:
I've enjoyed following your progress.    Such a cool project!     Plus, you're preserve a bit of Guzzi history to be enjoyed for many years to come.
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Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #159 on: October 31, 2017, 12:41:35 AM »
:popcorn:
I've enjoyed following your progress.    Such a cool project!     Plus, you're preserve a bit of Guzzi history to be enjoyed for many years to come.

Thanks!  We are all just caretakers.  Best I can do it to pass it on in a condition that others will value.

The whole goal of pulling the flywheel was to get the generator working but then there were a couple of setbacks...

First was how the heck to hook up the generator???  Searched wiring diagrams, but it didn't match any Guzzi, Marelli or Bosch diagram I could find.  It was a mess with wires connected to the wrong terminals, cut wires, twist splices and every wire a stealthy shade of black (all but 2 or 3).  Clearly wiring had been a low priority.

   


Then there was the weird headlight switch which seemed in good condition except the "key cylinder" had been cut in half and then epoxied back together.  (WHY??!)  And there was the funky spring and a key that is too short. 



And finally investigated some oozing on the tank.  Rust between the steel and brass repair - UGH!

   


First step (after draining the tank) was drawing up a wiring diagram that matched this bike (which seems to have the wrong light switch).  Can any electrical gurus confirm if this will work?   



1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Online Chuck in Indiana

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #160 on: October 31, 2017, 08:57:06 AM »


I wouldn't be afraid to braze that. After a fair amount of prep and making sure the rust isn't a much bigger area, of course. Keep choppin wood.  :thumb:
Chuck in (Elwood) Indiana/sometimes SoCal
 
87 AeroLario
95 Skorpion tour
22 Royal Enfield Classic 3 fiddy
 "Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe."
Albert Einstein

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #161 on: October 31, 2017, 10:30:05 AM »
Sean:  I just saw your clutch rebuild report.  Two suggestions.  First, all the books are adamant that the clutch pushrod should protrude from the pressure plate by "not more than one thread".  It is a 6X1 threaded rod, so one thread is 1mm.  You adjusted to 2mm.  There is some risk of the tip of that rod hitting the inner face of the left side cover and preventing full release of the clutch.  Might work, might not.  Be prepared.  Second, the original button bearing probably used 3mm balls.  Mixing ball dimensions might cause an issue.  It is a pretty crude bearing for sure.  I fabricate a modern, caged ball button bearing which runs smooth as silk.  Mine on the blue Falcone is approaching 5K miles.  I'll send you one.






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Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

Online Chuck in Indiana

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #162 on: October 31, 2017, 10:32:54 AM »
^^^^  :smiley: :thumb:
Chuck in (Elwood) Indiana/sometimes SoCal
 
87 AeroLario
95 Skorpion tour
22 Royal Enfield Classic 3 fiddy
 "Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe."
Albert Einstein

Offline Kiwi_Roy

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #163 on: October 31, 2017, 12:49:16 PM »
I looked at the schematic, it seems to follow the typical Guzzi wiring.
If you open one of Carl Allison's drawings of the same era (doesn't have to be the same model) you should be able to piece it together, I'm sure the ignition switch would be the same from model to model.
1938 Ercole            http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1938_Ercole.gif
1939 Airone 250ST  http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1939_Airone-250ST.gif
1946 Superlace       http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1946_Superalce.gif

Even the 51 Falcone has some of the same features
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1951_Falcone.gif

Carl's drawings are a wonderful resource  :bow:

Actually the Ercole is the only one with a brake light

This is a great project, excellent work.
« Last Edit: October 31, 2017, 01:16:08 PM by Kiwi_Roy »
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Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #164 on: October 31, 2017, 09:49:06 PM »
Sean:  I just saw your clutch rebuild report.  Two suggestions.  First, all the books are adamant that the clutch pushrod should protrude from the pressure plate by "not more than one thread".  It is a 6X1 threaded rod, so one thread is 1mm.  You adjusted to 2mm.  There is some risk of the tip of that rod hitting the inner face of the left side cover and preventing full release of the clutch.  Might work, might not.  Be prepared.  Second, the original button bearing probably used 3mm balls.  Mixing ball dimensions might cause an issue.  It is a pretty crude bearing for sure.  I fabricate a modern, caged ball button bearing which runs smooth as silk.  Mine on the blue Falcone is approaching 5K miles.  I'll send you one.






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Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

Wow - Thanks Patrick!  The new balls are all 1/8" so just a skosh more than 3mm, but they are running on old, pitted races. (the old balls were really worn down).

As for the pushrod.  1mm is probably with new plates.  As the plates get thinner (the bronze plates are worn) the pressure plate moves away from the cover and into the basket.  Just double checked the clutch throw and the cover doesn't limit disengagement.

« Last Edit: November 01, 2017, 12:21:22 AM by SED »
1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #165 on: October 31, 2017, 09:56:53 PM »
I looked at the schematic, it seems to follow the typical Guzzi wiring.
If you open one of Carl Allison's drawings of the same era (doesn't have to be the same model) you should be able to piece it together, I'm sure the ignition switch would be the same from model to model.
1938 Ercole            http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1938_Ercole.gif
1939 Airone 250ST  http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1939_Airone-250ST.gif
1946 Superlace       http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1946_Superalce.gif

Even the 51 Falcone has some of the same features
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1951_Falcone.gif

Carl's drawings are a wonderful resource  :bow:

Actually the Ercole is the only one with a brake light

This is a great project, excellent work.

Thanks Roy!  Appreciate your expert eye.  I did use Carl's diagrams but I also used these two.  The Super Alce diagram (top) is from a very helpful blog:
http://superalcerestoration-j2maria.blogspot.com/2010/09/bike-came-without-any-wiring-bulbs.html



 
 
   
« Last Edit: November 01, 2017, 12:22:20 AM by SED »
1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #166 on: November 02, 2017, 01:08:22 AM »
The screwed up ignition switch was another excuse to use the lathe.

Switch as it arrived and how it should look on the right.  Notice that the "lock cylinder" has been cut in half and the key is too short.

   


Why would they cut the "lock cylinder" - to shorten it???

The external hex of a 1/4 x 28 coupling nut is the perfect size to fit the switch plate (about 11mm) and the 1/4" shaft of a shouldered 1/4 x 29 bolt is the perfect size to fit the phenolic circuit board (about 6mm) so I screwed the two together and then chucked it in the lathe to cut it into shape.  Also had to drill a hole through it.

   


First picture shows the end of the coupling nut turned down on the lathe. Notch was cut with dremel.  Third shows the shank of the bolt cut to fit the phenolic circuit board. 
       
     

Then found a key on ebay. Pagani name on key matches the switch bezel!  Polished chrome with bronze wool.

 
1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Online Chuck in Indiana

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #167 on: November 02, 2017, 07:07:56 AM »
 :thumb: Nice looking chip coming of the lathe..
Chuck in (Elwood) Indiana/sometimes SoCal
 
87 AeroLario
95 Skorpion tour
22 Royal Enfield Classic 3 fiddy
 "Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe."
Albert Einstein

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #168 on: November 04, 2017, 01:07:59 AM »
:thumb: Nice looking chip coming of the lathe..

Thank you Chuck.  I'm learnin'

Rewiring was necessary. Most wires were too small and black.  Generator wires had been cut and were too short. Conductivity meter revealed much of it was mis-wired.

           
.

Draw it up and wire it.  (Thanks Roy)  Didn't have enough of all colors so wire colors don't match diagram...  :rolleyes:

                     


Added a ground wire from the headlight bucket to the frame & battery and another ground wire from the taillight to the frame & battery.  Almost forgot the horn ground went back to the headlight bucket and had to be included in the main harness...

Old faded plastic 1960 taillight replaced by repop '30s taillight ($$$$$).  Repop takes weird 31mm "Festoon" bulbs.
               


Still have to wire up the generator and horn while waiting for the correct "festoon" bulbs....
1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #169 on: November 05, 2017, 11:28:13 AM »
Horn made some noises but not really a honk.  Take apart, clean the outside and the points:

   


A little points adjustment and HONK (not very loud).



There have been setbacks... :embarrassed:




Some final connections...

   


Fired it up and the lights and horn worked as they should (still waiting for a tail light bulb) and charge indicator light went out.
 Battery showed a 7volt charge when revved.

But generator bearing growling - gear mesh is probably too tight...  :rolleyes:




1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #170 on: November 11, 2017, 08:21:44 PM »
It's been an eventful week...

The tight generator gear was addressed by installing a thin steel shim under it.  Not sure why it needs it, but a previous worker  had used an Italian sparkplug application chart (Candella in Italian) as a shim.  (The chart lists "V7" as the newest Guzzi so this bodge may have happened almost 50 years ago!)  The generator case needs to be grounded and, as cardstock is not known to pass electrons easily, the charging system probably stopped working all together.




The leaking gas tank was repaired with JBWeld in the hopes that it may be repaired someday. 

Everything was connected up and decided to deliver our mail-in ballots to the courthouse as a test ride.  I relished the irony of riding the Mussolini era bike to deliver ballots for democracy.  Everything went well, except for a dragging clutch, until about 1.5 miles from home when the failure to charge light came on.  This was pretty quickly followed by some ugly rattling and grunching sounds... :cry: 

Took a picture when I got home.


 
« Last Edit: November 11, 2017, 09:09:32 PM by SED »
1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #171 on: November 11, 2017, 09:08:13 PM »
This was a near mechanical disaster and easily avoided so I'm giving it a separate posting. It is an embarrassing oversight, but hopefully this saves someone else from doing it.

LOCKTITE or SAFETY WIRE the generator gear nut!  There is no hole in the shaft or nut so securing it is dependent on wrenching it down which is probably why the aluminum gear cracked in the first place.  I didn't think to locktite it... :rolleyes:

When the nut comes off it bounces around between those nice helical cut teeth in the primary. Chips fly off the teeth and the nut comes out looking like a baby peeled carrot.



Patrick Hayes tells me it is a common enough failure that mechanics bring a spare set of primary gears with them on slicer tours.  The  crank gear is steel and I couldn't see a mark on it - but the clutch gear is cast iron so that it fails before bending a shaft or breaking a crankcase (ouch!).  First picture shows the primary carnage and the second the worst tooth.

   


I've yet to find replacements so decided to clean it up and try it.  Three gear teeth overlap so no single tooth gets all the load.
Amazingly everything was still usable (after some work) - the carrotized nut, the aluminum gear, the woodruff key...




Went out for a 15 mile test ride up to 50 mph or so and there is no noticeable noise from the primary.  Battery even ended the ride about 0.3 volts above where it started  :boozing:   This doesn't sound like much but this is a very old 30 watt generator and regulator trying to keep up with a 25 watt headlight...
 :bike-037:

The other avoidable mistake in all of this was the clutch adjustment.  You may remember that Mr. Hayes wrote "First, all the books are adamant that the clutch pushrod should protrude from the pressure plate by "not more than one thread".  It is a 6X1 threaded rod, so one thread is 1mm.  You adjusted to 2mm."  He is right - that sucker dragged like crazy.  Readjusting the rod gives a lighter clutch that doesn't drag (as much).  I need to learn to listen...
1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #172 on: November 11, 2017, 09:47:47 PM »
New knee action dampers cost about what cheap new hydraulic shocks cost.  The ends of the dampers pivot on the pins in the frame and swing arm and wear them badly so new replacements are a pretty sensible option if they are worn like these.  (but I didn't know that  :rolleyes:)

Clean up with new fasteners, friction disks and spring stars:

   


Decided to ride it to the club meet today despite the threat of rain - almost 50 miles round trip and it was still charging (weakly) at the end.  It even attracted a crowd. 




1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #173 on: November 18, 2017, 09:00:44 PM »
The slicer's been a little tough on the ego with some stupid mistakes - especially compared to some of the stellar work by many of you on here. Been admiring Canuck's LeMans rebuild - beautiful!

Winter is setting in so it's time to pull the slicer's engine.  There were metal flakes in the oil when I first got it.  It makes lots of gear noise in 2nd and 3rd, and jumps out of those gears as well. 

I owe a big thanks to Patrick Hayes translation of the GTV shop manual.   :thumb:





Left side before and after:  Pull or disconnect battery.  Pull foot rest, brake pedal and brake linkage.  This is a good time to pull the right foot rest too, but REPLACE the tie bolt - it holds the frame together. (ask me how I know  :rolleyes:)   Pull flywheel and kickstart lever.  Pull fuel lines, then pull intake manifold bolts while leaving carb on manifold - just unscrew top ring and pull throttle slide when pulling carb and manifold together.  Disconnect ignition advance cable and sparkplug lead. 

   



Right side before and after:  Pull foot rest.  Pull gear lever and linkage. Pull exhaust and extract kickstart shaft.  Disconnect wires from generator and horn, then pull horn. Disconnect clutch and compression release cables.  Remove drive chain.  Pull oil lines from pump.  Remove lower crankcase oil fitting that passes through frame.

   



The manual shows pulling the entire gear change ratchet body off the shaft, but it was seized on the taper - engine can still be removed provided you can get the right side nut off the tie bolt.





Shop manual makes no mention of removing the right side petcock, oil tank, rocker box oil drain or chain guard, but clearances are so tight and engine is so heavy they had to be pulled.  Slide the engine forward 5cm and pull out to the right and back.  While doing this the valve spring also needs to pushed past the frame downtube.  The engine weighs about the same as a small block Chevy so good to have help.  :boozing:

     



Finally able to confirm engine number.  Wonder if the stamping in the frame indicates it is a GTV?  (GTC, GTS and GTW used the same frame)

 

   
1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #174 on: November 18, 2017, 11:55:18 PM »
The leaking gas tank was repaired with JBWeld in the hopes that it may be repaired someday. 


Next time you find a leaking fuel/oil tank, try SEAL-ALL from your local hardware supplier.  Clear like model airplane glue.  Impervious to fuel.  Couple of coats does the job.  I've used it successfully many times.  Sometimes temporary until I could do a full restoration.  Sometimes just permanent out of view.



Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #175 on: November 19, 2017, 10:41:41 PM »
Next time you find a leaking fuel/oil tank, try SEAL-ALL from your local hardware supplier.  Clear like model airplane glue.  Impervious to fuel.  Couple of coats does the job.  I've used it successfully many times.  Sometimes temporary until I could do a full restoration.  Sometimes just permanent out of view.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

Thanks Patrick,  I'll look for it.  Hopefully wont need to use it!

First order of business is to pull the gear change ratchet box that was seized.  With a little more room a puller would fit and a propane torch could be applied to good effect.




Then pull rocker box, pushrod tube, head and cylinder.

           


Pull primary cover (loosen and tighten bolts evenly or cover can be distorted by engine shock absorber spring), clutch pushrod and springs from right side, clutch and generator.




Pull timing cover and oil pump.  Make note of timing marks at TDC compression stroke. Loosen magneto shaft bolt a couple turns, loosen mag strap and rap on bolt head with a lead hammer to free the drive gear from the taper (according to the manual!).  The crankcase casting is 5-6mm thick so supports the gear pretty well, but the mag shaft is brass.  It worked!  Felt seal had polished away a lot of the case!

   



Weirdly the mag was shimmed like the generator with more of the sparkplug application chart.

   



Hard part was pulling the kick start ratchet.  Manual suggests using a hook spanner and holding the clutch hub nut with a socket wrench.  But what if the clutch hub nut comes loose and the kickstart ratchet is seized?  The flywheel lock nut is the same size and I've already made that tool - so fire up the impact gun!  Once off the threads, the nut is still trapped by a key on the hollow shaft so must be aligned to remove.  Drive sprocket is held by a similar notched nut.

     


Once the drive sprocket, mag and timing gears and generator and primary gears are removed the cases can be separated.  There are 3 small 6mm fasteners and about six 8mm fasteners. Most are obvious, but the one below the generator (lower arrow) is easy to miss if you put your nuts back on the studs for safe keeping.  :rolleyes:




Number 13 must've put this engine together originally - his stamp is all over it.  Manual says to suspend the crankcase with the timing side up and beat on the transmission and gearbox shafts with a wooden mallet.  Working around it with a block of wood works too.

         



Guzzi's shop manual claims the bearings are over-sized to last more than 1,000 hours - Look at the size of the crank bearings!!!  35 x 80 x 21  The gear shift cam is also huge compared to the equivalent Burman unit in the Ariel.




Unfortunately the bearings have been enthusiastically staked in by a previous worker so may be difficult to replace.

          


1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Online Chuck in Indiana

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #176 on: November 20, 2017, 07:10:59 AM »
"Don't want them bearins commin out, Jethro.."  :rolleyes:
Maybe make up a hardened peen punch and try to work the peened over area back, then grind as necessary?
Chuck in (Elwood) Indiana/sometimes SoCal
 
87 AeroLario
95 Skorpion tour
22 Royal Enfield Classic 3 fiddy
 "Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe."
Albert Einstein

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #177 on: November 20, 2017, 08:52:35 PM »
"Don't want them bearins commin out, Jethro.."  :rolleyes:
Maybe make up a hardened peen punch and try to work the peened over area back, then grind as necessary?

That's a great idea.  Interestingly the shop manual doesn't mention heating the case to install and remove bearings.
1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #178 on: November 22, 2017, 11:51:29 PM »
Cool Slicer engine rebuild timelapse:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6cWvLkH5_U

Their engine looks so clean!


image upload html
1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

Offline SED

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Re: Bacon Slicer project
« Reply #179 on: November 26, 2017, 08:51:14 PM »
Before and after cleanup pictures.  Inside the cases was incredibly sooty from the worn carb and poor tuning.  (Interesting that the crank bearings are held in brass collars cast into the crankcase. For strength?)

         



Used Chuck's technique to peen back the metal retaining the bearings and got all but this one.  Gordie offered to lend his HF blind bearing puller - a little heat, a little slide-hammer = worked great.


 


Only other bearing was the outer race of the drive side roller that had been installed by #13 in about 1946. Drilled two small holes behind the race and used a pin punch (and some heat). Other side of holes opens into primary which is lubed by engine oil vapor.  Will seal the holes with Silicone or JBWeld.

   



Connecting rod journal still has hone marks - though something made a mark on the crank and rollers. 

   
 
1983 LeMans III
1981 Monza
1947 Ariel Red Hunter
1939 Ariel Red Hunter
1937 Guzzi GTV

 

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