assistance please: stelvio dash attachment to fuel tank

[Daniel Kalal]

I believe this has come up before.  Is there a solution?

The fitting shown screws into an insert in the fuel tank.  This single fitting is responsible for securing: 1) the headlight surround, 2) the dash, 3) the air deflector wing.  The photograph shows the left side fitting as installed and the right side, which has been removed already.   I think we can agree it's a poor design; but, here it is.

I've already removed the screw that holds the air deflector, but when I unscrew the fitting with the 13mm wrench, the insert in the tank spins with it.



Any suggestions? 

1) perhaps an electric drill (if I had a chuck large enough to grab the socket extension) might be able to spin up fast enough to break it loose from the insert, but it's doubtful that the insert has enough inertia on its own to make that work...

2) perhaps just spin it with the same drill as above to melt the plastic holding the insert--let it cool--then unscrew things normally, hoping that the solidified plastic grips the insert. 

3) beats me!

I know this isn't the first; what have you guys done?

[Darren Williams]

IIRC a guy solved this by using vice grips on the outside of the fitting and running a drill bit the same size as the threaded stud down into it. He then used a dremel tool to cut enough away to get the insert out.  Replaced the insert in the tank with an epoxy filler around a nut. Of course he had to get a new replacement fitting.

I don't know if he ever tried getting it off again later.

[Daniel Kalal]

I don't know if he ever tried getting it off again later.

I'll keep that solution in mind as the last one to try.

However it gets solved, the next version will be well-lubricated with anti-seize on all the threads so that the break-out torque is negligible.  Worst case, the little plastic air-deflector wiggles a bit.

The sorry thing is that I'm only trying to get to the big wire connector under the dash to solve a turn-signal issue.  I can just push the connector with my finger tips and the signals work; else, they don't.

[pete roper]

I haven't had this problem with that fitting but have a couple of times with the filler bolts on early Stelvio tanks. Yes, the captive nut idea must of been dreamed up by a complete imbecile!

Your idea with the drill might work, my version was even more demented. I got a dirty great 1/2 inch rattle-gun, stuck a 3/8 ths reducer on it and then a 1/4 inch reducer before adding my short reach 4mm Allen socket on the end. I then inserted this apparatus into the 4mm screw head and pulled the whole lot sideways to try and increase the friction between the captive nut and the plastic surrounding it.

I then crossed my fingers and hit the trigger. First time it 'Clacked' and spun. Second time it did the same. Third time the bugger broke loose and spun out. On reinstalation I surrounded the captive nut with superglue and used a load of anti-seize on the bolt.

Pete

[Daniel Kalal]

I checked the archives over at G-Tech and there's enough evidence out there that says this problem is common.  Guzzi replaced tanks under warrantee (which is a very expensive solution).  Destructive disassembly with a drill seems to be the only sure way to get this thing apart.  after that, do your best to do a better job with epoxy and a new insert and a new stud than the factory did.  Sigh...

My advice for a current Stelvio owner would be to use lots of anti-seize on the threads should you ever remove the stud (which you'll need to do if you want to get at the dash) and you're lucky enough not to have the stud spin on you.  There's really no reason to crank down on the torque wrench with this thing when you attach the fairing and those little plastic wings.

[Tom H]

If you are at a point of destroying it to get it out. May I suggest another possible option.

If you have an idea of how large the "nut" is that is "molded" into the part. Maybe use a disposable small drill bit and drill into the "nut" to lock it in place while you remove the stud.

If this works, maybe drill another hole or so in the nut and use a steel pin of the right size to lock it. Maybe even a few holes around the nut to squirt epoxy in to.

But...if your still under warranty, do that instead.

Just a thought, good luck,
Tom

[BentGoose]

Daniel, I had this same problem on my Stelvio, I wedged a stiff putty knife between the dash part and the tank put upward pressure on the insert this gave the insert enough bite to break loose be careful not to damage the tank, once you have the dash off, dig the insert out of the tank clean out the hole I used a scraper to make the hole larger than the insert, fill with JB Weld, grease a bolt screw it into the insert press the insert into the tank hole line the bolt up the best you can then clean up the excess JB Weld let it set up remove the bolt now it is good to go, do not over tighten the upper fitting to the dash, I have had my dash in and out numerous times with out any problems.
Good Luck
Roger

[pauldaytona]

The hex size makes people tighten it to much. I don't have the deflectors ond just a tiny scew in it.
You can take the dash out without taking the tank of.

[Zoom Zoom]

Although it is a different animal, the older Stelvios have some similar attaching nuts. I had a couple of those spin like what you are describing. I was finally able to get the bolt out by giving the wrench a sharp wrap. I doubt the bolt is rusted in. It is just tight enough to be stuck more than the nut in the plastic. That worked for me.

Roger, (BentGoose) describes something similar. That may work out better than my idea. Afterward, I too employed JB Weld to secure the nut into its cavity.

In my case the nuts in question were in body work that surrounds my fuel tank. Brought the whole show to a stop until I could get them loose.

John Henry

[leafman60]

This is an issue that has affected other Stelvio owners.  I know of cases where their tanks were replaced under warranty for this.

However, I would think that one of several suggestions above could free the fastener.

I always put a small amount of anti-seize lube on my threads and am careful about tightening too much.

[Pisano]

Scaffolding on the "upward pressure" idea from Bentgoose,  rather than a putty knife wedged in between the fitting and the dash part, perhaps you can use vice grips to apply upward pressure and hopefully some torsion at the same time.  I think this way you would have more of a "feel" of what's going on and where the best areas of friction are for that "bite".

Good Luck!
Norm F

[Daniel Kalal]

Good Luck!

I'm out of town and in any event, the replacement stud is on back-order, so I've not done any destruction just yet.  I'm hoping that those elves who normally make shoes will instead take care of this...

[pete roper]

On back order  How long? If you want one you can have the pair of my POS. I don't have the 'Winglets' and could give the most tiny nano-shit about them so the odd little mounts are simply there to hold things in place.

I've been thinking about replacing them with the simple, slightly domed, screws used elsewhere like the 'Bra' at the back of the tank that covers the fuel pump but immediately this idea pops into my tiny cranium I become overwhelmed by a feeling of enormous lassitude and sloth and I have to go and sit down with a beer or three.

If though, getting this wretched part becomes a problem it will give me an excuse to stop being a lazy bastard and fix my *Ugly* issue as well as giving you the part you need. At the end of the day I will get around to removing them eventually and chances are they will end up in the barrel along with all the dead 8V camshafts and tappets! Just send me your address again because of course I've lost it.....

Pete