'76 Moto Guzzi V1000 Convert refresh/reawakening after 28 years...!

[radguzzi]

Greetings all, new Convert convert here.  I am actually a long time Moto Guzzi owner, rider, wrench (aren't we all...?) and first time Convert owner.

This particular old boot, a '76 Moto Guzzi V1000 Convert sat dormant since 1991 indicated by the last registration.  Actually stored properly or it seems to have been as bolting comes apart easily and the engine is not stuck... lol  Good start huh...?  


 




More later...

[radguzzi]

'76 V1000 Convert barn find status.

Great news, compression checks out well on both cylinders, nice blue spark from the Dyna III, lights work...

The compression check was a little weird, the throttle cables are stuck so I could not open the throttles but I think it is a good reading.



We can move forward now.

Carbs come off and into the ultrasonic tub. Fluid changes, parts order for brake rebuilds, carb kits, hoses and cables going out.

Getting excited...!

So the statement about the Convert having been stored properly may have been just a bit premature...

I had mentioned that the throttle cables are stuck which made the compression check not as proper as it should have been. I popped the tops off the carbs and the slides are stuck along with the choke plungers... Ooops. They are soaking in Aerokroil.

New fuel lines and dual spigot banjos to eliminate the weird cross over under the carbs will go back it. Looks innocent enough huh..?



Stuck, soaking, thinking about what they have done... lol

[canuck750]

Your Convert looks like its in pretty nice shape, I think they are very cool!

Nice find

[moto-uno]

  As often as I've heard criticism about the square slide carbs , my personal experience was rather positive !
  Good all round carbs , perhaps a bit small for performance applications on a 950cc motor , but we didn't buy
  a convert for high performance !  Peter

[radguzzi]

Your Convert looks like its in pretty nice shape, I think they are very cool!

Nice find

I am excited to get her going, slow and steady progress... seems to have real good bones.  Fortunately no signs of leaks from the troublesome ATF lines. 
I like the rejuvenation process on Tontis.

[radguzzi]

  As often as I've heard criticism about the square slide carbs , my personal experience was rather positive !
  Good all round carbs , perhaps a bit small for performance applications on a 950cc motor , but we didn't buy
  a convert for high performance !  Peter

Hey Peter,
They should be fine, you are correct, this is no powerhouse engine.  A previous owner had changed the Mains to 125 from 112 and retained the stock airbox, perhaps in an attempt to "make" more power.

Oddly enough I have been hashing over whether to keep that stock box or go with the K&N pods or even the dual K&N which would have bumped up the Mains...  I have been going over Guzziology to try and figure out which way to go.

Brembo calipers next.   

Best,
Rob

[radguzzi]

Well I was able to coax the carb slides to move with the help of this stuff... Man, gummed up. It has been sitting since before the days of ethanol fuel so it is merely lacquered instead of what ever happens nowadays.







So opened the carbs to clean them up and check the specs against Guzziology... Ha. Not yet. 

Nice huh...?



This residue wipes off easily so an ultrasonic bath should clean things up nicely.





This brilliant design will go away, replaced by dual spigot banjos on the carbs and a single cross over to each bowl.



I enjoy rebuilding Dellortos…

[radguzzi]

The first carb cleaning session in the ultrasonic.

I use a mild mixture of Purple Power and water at about 50 Celsius. (122-ish Fahrenheit.) Most impressed with the bowl and carb body results, I will run the small parts separately 'cause the solution needs changing, kinda filthy.

Before...



After...

[radguzzi]

So while we are on the intake side of things...

The stock air filter and housing are in place, miraculously no rodents or traces there of. I am actually a fan of stock airboxes, still air to be introduced to the intake, reasonably free of dirt and moisture however, I really do not like the design of the mid 70's airbox. Ridiculous to get at to change the filter element.

Thinking seriously about swapping for the dual mount K & N filter. It sort of replicates the structure of the stock intake box, attaches to both carbs.

But, and this is a big but... rejetting may be required to suit the different filter. Plus, and this is the big one, the crankcase breather system will need to be addressed. Easy enough by installing the LeMans breather box and pipe the valve cover vents to it... I'll figure it out but again, still on the fence.

In a preliminary inspection of the carb innards, I find that the Main Jets are 125 vs 130 called for stock, according to Guzziology. After all bits are cleaned I will check the specs to see what else may have been swapped.

Always an adventure when following others with no documentation, part of the fun.

More later,

rad

[radguzzi]

Parts are ordered for the carbs, new cables and air filters, fuel taps, lines etc...

So I pulled the calipers off to inspect them for needs. When I picked up the V1000 the front calipers were unbolted from their carriers, not taken completely off the Convert, just hanging so the thing would roll around, probably because they were frozen.

They were also stripped of E.v.e.r.y thing, pads, caps, pins and all that. I picture all the parts on someone's bench.

I started looking at the parts required to completely rebuild the calipers and after adding them up it I discovered the replacement Brembo F08 calipers, all dressed with pads and ready to bolt on for less money...New, bolt them on. I ordered two for the front and I will refurbish the rear.
After much consternation and a chat with the good folks here, the decision to replace with new single bleeder replacements was the way to go, for me. 

The dual bleeder original calipers are in good condition, no stripped threads however, in need of all other components.





The rear F08 caliper pistons appear to have no corrosion as compared to the front units and should pop outta there easily. He said. Stay tuned.

[radguzzi]

That is coming along nicely and at a fast pace.
I have that 1000 jetting arriving in the mail next week (My bike came with super small bore Cigars with 145 mains @ 850 cc ) to suit the bigger 950 kit.

The Brembo 08's on Ducati's could be a little wooden even with aggressive pads, back in the 1990's I was doing who knows what on my 900SD and the front brake would not bleed properly (and was going for a ride the next day)
I had a GSXR 1100 master cylinder on hand and ended up getting it to bolt up with the thought that will do (I gave no thought to the bore diameter)  until I can get a kit for the Brembo M/C.

The project is not coming along that fast really and it will slow down while rebuilding the carbs and calipers...

I have read often about the differences in master cylinder size and the calipers, not yet tried a mod such as this however, I am not opposed to it.

rad__

[radguzzi]

Rear caliper… I took the chance that what I could see of the rear caliper pistons were good and did not order a new replacement for that one, good call, ok, lucky call.

When I took it apart sure enough the Brembo F08 contains the anodized aluminum pistons and good seals. I will replace the seals anyway but really excited about the pistons.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Rear caliper… I took the chance that what I could see of the rear caliper pistons were good and did not order a new replacement for that one, good call, ok, lucky call.

When I took it apart sure enough the Brembo F08 contains the anodized aluminum pistons and good seals. I will replace the seals anyway but really excited about the pistons.

IIRC, any/all F08s with a single bleeder also have the anodized alloy pistons. Both happened during the same revision.

[radguzzi]

IIRC, any/all F08s with a single bleeder also have the anodized alloy pistons. Both happened during the same revision.

Interesting...  I was going to ask if you knew when they started in with the updated pistons. 

This thing has not been registered sine '91, I find it hard to believe that someone would bother to install a newer caliper if it were not on the road... 

Little confused albeit grateful here.

[Groover]

Looking really good. I opted to keep the stock Air filter setup on my G5, mostly because mine (an '81) has the rubber intake elbows and the stock air box provides great support for the carbs. On yours, seems you could go either way. I'd probably make that decision based on the road types you typically ride. If not a lot of country roads, it could take a good while till you need to worry about replacing the air filter - that's just my opinion on that.

[radguzzi]

Looking really good. I opted to keep the stock Air filter setup on my G5, mostly because mine (an '81) has the rubber intake elbows and the stock air box provides great support for the carbs. On yours, seems you could go either way. I'd probably make that decision based on the road types you typically ride. If not a lot of country roads, it could take a good while till you need to worry about replacing the air filter - that's just my opinion on that.

Right, with the rubber intakes there should be some additional support, I did that on my Son's CX years ago. 

The K &Ns should work fine, I'll keep them cleaned and oiled.

rad__

[radguzzi]

The first batch of parts arrived from MG Cycle. There will be more and I am working on that list now.

So this is what new Brembo calipers look like... who knew...?

[radguzzi]

Carb kits, fuel taps and lines, dual banjos, filters, breather box, valve cover vent lines...

[Pescatore]

Will the dual banjos work on any bike with the cross hoses, like a V65?
I need to fix a leak on mine, but looks like
I could replace it altogether.
And... makes replacing the air filter easier.

[radguzzi]

Will the dual banjos work on any bike with the cross hoses, like a V65?
I need to fix a leak on mine, but looks like
I could replace it altogether.
And... makes replacing the air filter easier.

Yes, the dual banjos eliminate that silly cross over with four separate hoses and eight clamps.   

One side of the banjo connects the two carbs together, I like to run that connection in a nice, gentle sweeping arc to each other and the other side simply connects to the fuel tank feed from the fuel taps.  Done.

I use the 7mm rubber fuel hose with cloth covering along with the dual banjos, no clamps for carbed engines... kid you not.

BTW, yes, I did the same on my V65.

Best,
Rob

[radguzzi]

More carb cleaning... Hey, I've been busy.
 
The left instrument seems to be more chock-full-o-crap than the right.  A good soak in the ultrasonic cleaner should make this all good.

Check out the inlet filter, years of sitting but worse, indications of possible tank sediment, I guess.  Compare to the new screens. 

The poor thing is so gunked up that I could not coax the bowl off, again, soak and try it later.  The pumper assembly was good and gummed up and stuck as well. More later, tomorrow should finish up the carbs.  Should...







Ok, all good, the carbs cleaned up well, new kits for gaskets, O-Rings and float needles. Not too bad for having sat up for years...

[radguzzi]

I am hopping around doing this and that so there is no continuity here... sorry.

The rest of the required parts for the first wave of installs. I had omitted a few small items and as I got to looking around MG Cycle's website of course I added this and that. It happens, I'm helpless to stop it.

The banjo bolts and sealing washers were a must, the ignition cover, rubber bumpers for the tank, new plug caps, a few gaskets, vent line clamps, one more caliper seal kit for the rear F08, Frentubo stainless braided oil feed line and I added the sump spacer... just because. Luckily I happened to have a spare, correct length dipstick to suit the sump spacer.



Doing a little corrosion control. Rust just drives me nuts, I know it is a short ride...

The battery tray was in sad condition, just rusty and paint scaling but still.



So a quick sanding and spray bomb flat black to coat it. New stainless bolts, washers and lock nuts, one of the securing points holds the main ground wire, corrosion control. ;)



Besides, it will be mostly hidden with the rubber mat on it..

[radguzzi]

Oil pan...

this might get a tad boring as I have several images showing the sequence of assembling the pan with the sump spacer, filter, screen and gaskets. I decided to install a sump spacer to the older engine. The intent of the sump spacer is not to increase the oil amount in the pan rather it is used for lowering the level of the oil away from the spinning crank which would in turn cause oil foaming and large amounts of misting and pressure that would then find a way to leak, usually out through the crankcase vent system. The retention of the PCV is paramount also.

Anyway, this will aid in reducing or eliminating the oil misting issue. The sump spacer adds another gasket as well as longer pan securing bolts.

We'll start with the pan removal and showing how that old oil looked in it...! Wow.  Sat for twenty-eight (28) years as far as I know.



The good news is that it cleaned up well.



A word about the hose clamp on the oil filter... Some years ago, on this very forum I heard of an oil filter working its way loose and really messing up an engine. Ahh, just a fluke surely. Then I heard of a few more. The DIY fix...? Secure a hose clamp onto the filter and keep the worm gear lug nice and tight onto the relief valve to prevent the filter from spinning off, just in case.



The next step is to start assembling the entire pan and spacer assembly to ready for install onto the engine. I like to use a very thin smear of grease on the flanges to help seal the gaskets and to help them not bake onto the engine making removal difficult.



Place the gasket and grease the top of that prior to setting the spacer on...



Spacer on, repeat the grease application to the top of the spacer for the next gasket...



Another gasket...



And this is your basic oil pan and sump spacer sammich ready to go back onto the engine…



Tomorrow I'll show you the cool rig I use to introduce this entire assembly to the engine for bolting, it can be a bit unruly if just hand held. You gotta hold yer tongue just right...

[usedtobefast]

Thanks for posting all this up! 

My list of ToDos for my Quota is growing at about the same pace as my laziness!    Reading threads like this motivates me to get to work in the garage. 

[radguzzi]

Thanks for posting all this up! 

My list of ToDos for my Quota is growing at about the same pace as my laziness!    Reading threads like this motivates me to get to work in the garage.

Sure thing, so get to it.  Hopefully the Quota will not need all that the Covert does, prolly not been sitting as long. 


Oil pan assembled and installed.

So with the pan, sump spacer and gaskets all readied the next step is to hold it with one hand, raise the assembly up to meet the bottom flange of the engine and start threading the 6mm bolts up into their respective threaded holes. This can be quite the balancing act.

I figured out a long time ago that the scissors lift is a labor saver and a good aid in alignment and installation of the pan.



Just lay it on top and crank the platform up to meet the bottom of the engine and start threading the new bolts in...



Yes, that is an old SP1000 mirror...





More later,
rad___

[Groover]

Looking great, and I'm really digging your photography work. Good camera, good angles? Maybe both, but it's good!

[radguzzi]

Looking great, and I'm really digging your photography work. Good camera, good angles? Maybe both, but it's good!

Thanks, actually progressing slowly due to other responsibilities and family commitments for now. 

I shoot a lot , these are mostly with the small Nikon P510, fairly old now but easy to use, the rear screen articulates to be able to use it in tight and at odd angles.  I use the D7200 for images that need manual, selective focus shots, items that are in a crowded area that the small camera will not do, the auto focus gets confused…

More soon.
rad__

[radguzzi]

Man, the family gathering stuff really puts a damper on wrench time, I have not been on the Guzzi for a week, all worth it for sure.

Against my better judgement I actually decided to replace the oil feed line to the heads. I say against that judgement because even though the lines "look" fine, fittings are dry, no signs of seeping or leaks this thing has not run for some time and the very last thing I would want to have happen is have that line blow at start up or soon after.
Plus, with the added lines of the Convert, the area to get at the fitting down between the cylinders is pretty crowded, better to do it now.

So, before I install the breather box, vent lines, carbs and filters, new steel braided line coming up.





New oil feed lines and sealing washers. As soon as I clean the existing valve covers they will have new vent lines as well.
I hesitate to even polish the covers, rather just an ultrasonic cleaning to ensure that they are free of contaminants prior to going on with new lines and gaskets...

This goes along with the decision to Not restore the Convert. One of my favorite quotes from a Peter Egan story talks to not doing a restoration for many reasons and if I get to doing a little of this and a little of that I may jump in and completely restore the thing.

I paraphrase Peter regarding an MGB project that he was doing:

'One night on a strange mixture of French roast coffee and Guinness I accidently took the entire car apart'

That and another quote talks about how deep one can get into a project in respect to cost which we can all relate, especially if the end goal is for resale of the project:

Again, in this case an MGB...'After completion of a Compete and total restoration, I now have the finest $8000.00 MGB that $12,000.00 can buy.'

We all know that costs can go to an entirely unexpected level. Easy to do...

New Frentubo stainless braided line, banjo bolts and seals...



Old and new...







The center banjo bolt, between the cylinders on the top of the engine block is a genuine pain in the butt to get at, the only bolt that, after breaking it loose, did not spin out by hand, I needed to turn that one out flat by flat... figures. lol

[Rick4003]

Looking good.

And good idea changing the hose. I left mine on as it was a braided steel hose that looked good. It fell of on the right side. I only noticed it because there was a little oil splatter on the right carb.  Will definitely fit a new better quality one this winter.

[radguzzi]

I had a few minutes between errands and other life responsibilities to start assembling the breather box with new stubby little hoses and clamps. I cannot get that kink out of the thin walled vent hose to save me.  I may even attach a short piece of copper pipe to the spigot on the breather and then run the hose down... maybe.

Only one side valve cover breather hose is on in this shot, I am contemplating having the covers vapor blasted and hope to Hell that it will not lead to further "Restoration". The covers clean up fairly well however, the deep dinginess is a bit bothersome. I'll figure it out.



Edit:

On the advice of a fellow Guzziphile, I installed a spring in the hose and no kink.  Love it.




Right side vent hose...




Choke assemblies...


When I took the carbs down for cleaning and rebuild I noticed that one of the choke valve caps was broken along the O-Ring sealing area. I went down to the stash-o-stuff set aside for the T-3/SP project and stole one from that. If I need to submit another order for more parts I may just replace the dual cable set up for individual flip type levers...

As found...



Should be...