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How would the bronze swingarm bushings handle the heat?
If you're looking to weld-fill the chain gouges for cosmetic reasons, could you use JB weld or other epoxy on it instead?That way you can leave the bronze bushings in, and not worry about damaging them with heat.
Thatís a good idea, hadnít thought of epoxy will definitely consider it. I am considering powder coating the frame, swing arm and forks and having the fenders, tool boxes and tank sprayed to match. A metal epoxy should be able to handle the curing temp of powder coating.
The guys that do my powder coating say that JB Quik is more heat resistant than regular JB Weld.
Thanks Charlie. I donít think I have used that particular JB product before. Is it a two part liquid gel or is it the putty type that you kneed together? Assuming I keep the chain in tension and not let it ride on the shaft how durable do you think JB is for vibration? My only concern with an epoxy is it breaking off the original surface
If it was my project, I'd just machine a slip-on donut out of UHMV plastic for the chain to rub on and forget filling in the grooves.
I am considering powder coating the frame, swing arm and forks and having the fenders, tool boxes and tank sprayed to match. A metal epoxy should be able to handle the curing temp of powder coating.
Some thoughts on powder coating. I've had 1 frame done well and another done poorly by different powdercoaters. The 'coater that did a good job cleaned and degreased the frame then put it in the oven to bake the grease out of the head tubes. He said they bake it repeatedly until there is no more grease. The other company must've powdered that frame a dozen times - it was so thick you can't read the frame numbers! Powder is more difficult to clear from threads and make electrical grounds.The paint supplier said that paint is more chip resistant than powder, but that powder is more scratch resistant than paint. This surprised me but it matches what I see on the pipes exhaust I've had powder coated.JBWeld does survive the oven, but it is difficult to feather out to the point where the edge is hidden by the powder (or maybe I was a rookie).Great project. Always wondered what was in those upside down forks!
Moto Morini ultrasonic cleaner - that's the best!
The GTV front had the largest offset I've laced and the spokes on the offset side had to be much tighter (which makes sense geometrically). I've always laced the wheels, then mount them in the frame and true to the frame. The advice was to true the wheel with all spokes finger tight, then tension the wheel. The offset side required more tension or it would be pulled off the frame centerline to the hub centerline.Hope that makes sense!
I'm following this thread with interest as I'm refurbing a 1960 Falcone Turismo and you are always a few steps ahead of me. The parts all look pretty much the same! I'm currently struggling to get the swing arm pin out - have put it on it's side and keep adding penetrating fluid. I don't see any steps on your pin which should prevent removal. Also did you take out the light switch from the headlight shell? That's got me puzzled - I don't see any way to release it.
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