Eldorado and the quest to ride a Moto Guzzi for the first time.

[LesP]

Everything is ship shape again.
The rocker mounts only needed machining in these locations to fit including clash with the original valve covers.



I think it will be safe to say it will be the only Eldorado in my neighbourhood with California II rockers, 32 mm PHF's and Tommy Pettersen distributor.

[Canuck750]

Les I think it would be safe to say your Eldorado is the only one anywhere with just about everything made better and prettier, details, details, details! 

[LesP]

Thanks Jim. 

The bike was running great but hope it will be even better.

[LesP]

I still should have fit that AMR300 supercharger for the 'Worlds fastest Eldorado, to late now.

The new parts bolted up like stock but what to set the valve clearance to is a mystery.



Amazing how things can machine in a fraction of the time compared to the first ones.
New and improved versions that will make the 32 mm bore match to the carburetor easy with the shoulder at that ID.

[Peter949]

For Valve Clearances my owners manual for the 1984 California II shows 0.009 inches for both Inlet and Exhaust!

Other have suggested 0.006 & 0.008 inches can be safely used.

I have also read on this forum that 0.005 & 0.007 inches is still very safe to use for the valve clearances.

 

[LesP]

For Valve Clearances my owners manual for the 1984 California II shows 0.009 inches for both Inlet and Exhaust!

Other have suggested 0.006 & 0.008 inches can be safely used.

I have also read on this forum that 0.005 & 0.007 inches is still very safe to use for the valve clearances.

 

Thanks Peter 
You are the only person in the world to offer any answer so muchly appreciated.
I will try .006" and .008"

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

I hear you, it must be the most mechanically loved Eldorado in these parts.

IIRC this is the gas cap surround I machined and sent you for free via ADV Rider.

Still going strong Les!

[LesP]

 

[LesP]

No surprise, if there was a schedule its behind time.

[LesP]

Charlie misses nothing, maybe it was an omen, one step forward, two backwards then three forward.. 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

 

[LesP]

Oddly enough (or not) I would be to afraid to touch those decals which should be replaced with ones that do not have the Eagles flying backwards. 

I think the last time I applied a deacl/sticker (Airfix model) was before New Zealand had colour television (1973)
Would they be a decal or some form of water transfer ?

How would they be removed and will hope the PO did not use some form of clear over them.
The tank is original paint so would not want to damage it, I am more at home drilling holes in crankshafts.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Kind of hard to tell from the photo what type they are. They look like water transfer without any clear over them, to me.

[Scout63]

No surprise, if there was a schedule its behind time.

That front brake is going to break your heart Les. I stayed true to mine for about a year and then ordered this from Don Pender:



q

I also don’t envy the poor lad that works on your Eldorado in 30 years with a shop manual in his hands. Your work is a pleasure to look at.

[LesP]

Hi Ben, I put one of Don's sleeve kits in the master cylinder along with new SS pistons and seals in the caliper (The rotor got Blanchard ground) so will see how it goes.
I have the Brembo that I made a bracket for (full seal kit and new Brembo pads added) to try later on.



The Mk2a is all mechanical and to look as stock as possible besides the FullAuto cylinder head and 2.5" Excels (with radials)
The paint on the frame is original.

[LesP]

Pesky drive chains and sprocket nuts needing 80 ft/lbs of torque.
Take the easy option and stand on the rear brake and guestimate it with a box spanner or..........

[Scout63]

I went the same route with sleeved mc and stainless black lines for the front brake Les. I wanted the bike to look completely stock. I couldn’t get it to stop leaking fluid through the caliper. The new setup males riding easier since I can two finger brake while blipping the throttle on downshifts.

Your countersprocket tool is killer. Also, I’m interested in how the Fullauto heads feel. I have Combat heads and 2s cam and the power output is surprisingly strong. The engine is happiest above 4500 and pulls past redline.  I tend to back off at 6000.

[Klinkhammer]

Les!
Very interested in how you will jet those PHF 32 (same as on my V7 Sport)...

[LesP]

I had to make some new parts including a new splitter to retain the Super Pratic.
This one has an Acetyl body (21mm OD x 15mm bore) and inner shuttle, a lot of machining for a small part but getting the PHF's to be as smooth and light action as the VHB's (which took some detaining) is more of a challenge.
The flip lever enrichers are back in place so only a single splitter is needed.

[LesP]

Amazing 

 Dusty

Thanks Dusty.

Just need welding back together.

[LesP]

The stanchions were not straight enough to use so removed the forks from the bike (early) so I could use those ('The best quality as MGC described) and the expensive bronze bushes (along with the custom machined bush to retainer wire spacers)

It was no surprise that cyling them gave little damping so am sure this mod is nothing new and been done in the past by someone.
Race Tech do both the compression and rebound Gold valves for these cartridges so that is a future drop in option.
The bike itself runs fine so no need to address that.
I will modify the front brake (floating/shoe aligning backing plate) and consider machining a brace as per Norton kits to tie the pivots and pedestals together to reduce flexing.

[LesP]

Oddly enough this simple project is stalled with no reply from the AU Race Tech agent so have contacted another vendor regarding Wirth progressive internal springs for an 850 T3 which should fit. (I asked if they could confirm the size of around 420 mm long and 25.5 mm OD that I found elsewhere before placing an order)

It should work in theory and complement the IKON's while still retaining the drum brake front end.

62 this month. 





Edit, instead of going around in circles I simply rang Mario @ Thunderbike in Perth.
No surprise, super helpful, knowledgeable and knew the spring lengths just like that and in stock.

[LesP]

On a side note I finally got some cables for the jumbo splitter, The result was better than expected and feather light so a win for the Teflon slider Super Pratic to 32 mm PHF conversion.
Wirth Le mans MK1 fork springs, new distributor springs (for the hall effect/VW module/TCI coil dist) and a new brake cable boot in the mail.
The not broke to fix list is all but done.
I think this will be the most modified stock Eldorado in my neighborhood.



To be continued one day..............

[Rick4003]

I think this will be the most modified stock Eldorado in the world. 

Fixed it for you.

Great work Les. Can you tell more about the fork modifications? What is the new internals from?

[LesP]

I think they were listed (eBay) as 1994 to 1997 Honda VFR 750 (AU$66 + local post) and are the steel body so 22.5 mm OD.
Only time will tell if the ports in the bodies are big enough to avoid harshness like a damper rod fork on big hits but Race Tech do replacements as an option.

There are later 20 mm CBR (2000's) cartridges but probably have an alloy body of a larger OD which would become a problem with flow in the area of the damper OD and ID of the fastener that holds the lower stanchion bush on the Loop fork.
I bored them to 25.5 mm.



It probably could have been done for under $100 if I had modified the forks original to the bike and not bought Wirth internal springs.
The Honda fork probably has more travel (only 110 mm on the loop) so I will remove around 35 mm from the cartridge bottom, four new holes for oil flow and cut a new internal clip groove that holds the compression body.
That will reduce the oil level which probably would have been to high with this short fork, that also means the Wirth springs will fit.

The only thing that might need to be done is another taller tapered cap for the cartridge bottom that slows flow via restriction at that bush holding fastener ID to stop clashing at full travel (stanchion bush fastener hitting the bottom of the slider)
If it has some compression and rebound damping (5wt or 7.5wt fork oil) that will be good enough.

[Scout63]

Such a beautiful Commando Les, and with a Fullauto head any many secret mods no less.

[LesP]

 
I just removed that pic being off topic.
Yes it has many modifications but retains its Mk2a exterior as close as possible.

I did change the exhaust to a non balanced header and rear mount plates as the originals had the lower muffler kick up due to the more Interstate like rear mount angle to suit the original black cap mufflers.



 

[LesP]

I let my fingers do the walking and not only found out there are inserts for cutting internal grooves (that fit your internal threading tool) but found a comprehensive stocked Ma & Pa type store only 45 minutes away.

1mm wide x 0.5mm deep groove for the 1mm OD wire snap ring.



New holes needed to feed the compression shim body.


Drill and ream to 6mm, because you can.


Ball burr over using a countersink.


Done.


The CBR 600 ? F4 has a similar 20mm cartridge and has a rebound adjuster (needle rod bleed) with clicker at the top cap.
The CBR rebound cartridge and upper parts could be used with this VFR lower but we wouldn't want to get carried away.

[LesP]

The forks are done now and there seems to be a vast difference which is not surprising, they look stock externally but now have 118mm of travel.
 

[Dave Swanson]

The forks are done now and there seems to be a vast difference which is not surprising, they look stock externally but now have 118mm of travel.

Very cool Les!