Wildguzzi.com
General Category => Bike Builds, Rebuilds And Restorations Only => Topic started by: blackcat on January 31, 2020, 02:27:10 PM
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I picked up this basket case from a friend of mine about two years ago and I have been slowly putting it back together. While I have restored my CX there are clearly some differences between the two so I'm flying kind of blind on some of this work. The bike shows 15,000 miles on the clock, but it has been sitting for many years in south Florida in a less than ideal environment. Evidently the wrist pin lost the clip, probably lost compression and it was shoved in a corner for who knows how long. I have one before photo of the project:
(https://image.ibb.co/b0yqvn/Lemans-I.jpg)
This is the condition of the parts when I picket everything up.
The scored cylinder after it was bored out one over. It might have been OK, but I picked up a set of barrels and matching pistons as a back up and just got them back today from the machine shop. The shop measured everything and they said they were OK so I'm going with those parts.
(https://image.ibb.co/iy1DgS/IMG-0747.jpg)
About six months ago I picked up all the parts from the powder coater and everything is packed away until the engine is done and I can start putting it back together. I would have preferred to have it all painted but I couldn't find someone locally who could do the work. Of course, a little time later I found someone but I'm not going to have it stripped and painted.
(https://image.ibb.co/b2Da2n/IMG-0808.jpg)
The painted parts:
(https://image.ibb.co/dS6mQ7/Message951520553940074.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/dNmTa7/IMG-0815.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/eF1uF7/IMG-0814.jpg)
The seat that I ordered from Gutsibits back in November finally arrived this week and it is a very good reproduction.
(https://i.ibb.co/5Y8tW3K/60209882239-A4374863-7-A98-4-CCD-9-C01-6-D95-BEE22740.jpg)
I purchased a bench top vapor blaster for the small parts:
(https://i.ibb.co/7z3s0Th/5-B28-CBAB-29-AF-4036-94-FB-BD62-A0-D8948-E.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/34yGjZd/06-CDE329-D6-D9-454-F-86-B2-98-CBDE55730-F.jpg)
The engine, transmission and final drive have all been vapor blasted but I'm waiting for a reground cam from Raceco to finish up the engine which won't arrive until sometime in February and then I can start putting the bike back together.The black Lafranconi's which I have on order through four or five sources; whoever gets them first will get my order. The original mufflers, which I have are just too rusted to consider using. I do have new fork tubes, but I'm on the fence with either stock or FAC's. I'd rather go with the FAC's.
I have to get Greg Bender to make up the harness, and while I have some new handlebar switches, I'm going to go with after market switches because I will be using this bike instead of parking it in a corner. If I want to show the bike I'll just swap them out for the period parts. The stash didn't come with a stator or rotor so those parts have to be sourced from the usual suppliers and I'm sure there are other parts that I'm missing.
Fortunately, I didn't pay that much for the project so I'm OK with where it's going so far in terms of money.
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:thumb: :thumb:
If you have any questions, I'd be happy to help if I can.
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:thumb: :thumb:
If you have any questions, I'd be happy to help if I can.
Charlie, thanks. There are just a handful of parts that I'm not sure about and when I get to those items I'll snap some photo's. The parts book helps but it doesn't fill in all the details.
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Man, this is gonna be a gorgeous restoration. Nice work so far. Was the original color the Ice Blue for this one...?
In the first shot of the coated frame I thought that the swing arm pivot thread may have been coated as well, happened to me on one LeMans project some years ago... the coater masked off everything BUT that thread...! :rolleyes:
I have that tap if you need it to chase the threads.
Well, good on ya for saving this one blackcat, just wow.
Best,
Rob
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:popcorn: :thumb:
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Man, this is gonna be a gorgeous restoration. Nice work so far. Was the original color the Ice Blue for this one...?
In the first shot of the coated frame I thought that the swing arm pivot thread may have been coated as well, happened to me on one LeMans project some years ago... the coater masked off everything BUT that thread...! :rolleyes:
I have that tap if you need it to chase the threads.
Well, good on ya for saving this one blackcat, just wow.
Best,
Rob
Rob, I’ll have to look at the swing arm, the PC’er did put plugs in everything but I’ll double check. The painter did a good job but there are a couple of spots on the top of the side panels that have to be re-shot. Fortunately I have some other stuff that has to be re-shot so I’ll get him to do that work then.
It was blue, I scratched it up just to make sure because the title doesn’t have a color. Thanks, it is pretty.
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Nice. I recently completed a similar resto on a 77 ice blue, I put mine back to as close to factory stock as I could, only LaFranconi mufflers and braided lines away from stock.
Any questions feel free to send me a msg.
With your carbs, after vapour blasting. If your not going to paint them (you can get some good alloy looking paint), make sure you at least paint the welsh plug on the top (blind end of the pivot arm) and the little vertical slide guide. These are steel and will rust fairly quickly looking shabby.
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That color would be my choice. Very nice!
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Nice work BC !
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Nice. I recently completed a similar resto on a 77 ice blue, I put mine back to as close to factory stock as I could, only LaFranconi mufflers and braided lines away from stock.
Any questions feel free to send me a msg.
With your carbs, after vapour blasting. If your not going to paint them (you can get some good alloy looking paint), make sure you at least paint the welsh plug on the top (blind end of the pivot arm) and the little vertical slide guide. These are steel and will rust fairly quickly looking shabby.
Yes, I'm going to go with the black LaFranconi's and probably will go with the braided brake lines but I'm not going to keep the linked brakes; I will keep the proportioning valve so I can easily hook up the rear brake switch.
No, the carbs are just getting blasted with no paint. They are sprayed down now to keep them from rusting but I will paint up those spots as you suggested.
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Nice work BC !
Yeah, I'm hoping it all comes out as planned. I'm sure that Canuck's bike are better than what I can do, but I'll be happy to see it all together and running.
I was hoping that Raceco/Amedeo would have the cam back to me soon but he said it looked like the end of the month. The engine didn't come with a flywheel, so I'm installing one that I've had on the shelf for awhile and of course there are no marks for where to install the flywheel and I don't want to remark the flywheel later. If it wasn't for that I'd start putting the engine/transmission together and get it all mounted up on the frame. It has been sitting apart for many years, so I guess a few more months won't make a difference.
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Yes, I'm going to go with the black LaFranconi's and probably will go with the braided brake lines but I'm not going to keep the linked brakes; I will keep the proportioning valve so I can easily hook up the rear brake switch.
No, the carbs are just getting blasted with no paint. They are sprayed down now to keep them from rusting but I will paint up those spots as you suggested.
If you want to ditch the splitter valve (its not proportioning on the Lemans - believe that came in for the Mk 3??) you can get an slim intergrated banjo like the below - will save you a bit on your brake lines as well.
These will fit on the rear caliper - the larger hex style with the 2 spade terminals will fowl on the frame.
(https://www.stein-dinse.biz/images/product_images/info_images/300111402-z.jpg)
https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=1049#prettyPhoto
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Fun project, watching this now!
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If you want to ditch the splitter valve (its not proportioning on the Lemans - believe that came in for the Mk 3??) you can get an slim intergrated banjo like the below - will save you a bit on your brake lines as well.
These will fit on the rear caliper - the larger hex style with the 2 spade terminals will fowl on the frame.
(https://www.stein-dinse.biz/images/product_images/info_images/300111402-z.jpg)
https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=1049#prettyPhoto
Oh it's a proportioning valve, I didn't know that. I will have to buy a rear brake master cylinder as there isn't one in this pile of parts, and I happen to have one of those switches but thought that it wouldn't work with the side cover panel.
Where exactly does the washer go on the bottom stem? underneath the rubber cover and which side is up?
(https://i.ibb.co/4mjLRHW/7-E1-E1-B4-A-D6-C2-4-A4-E-AAC4-DC68502301-F1.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/jH5DHhL/B246150-F-CBEC-4-AC7-97-FE-BB2-D85-C89534.jpg)
Just getting setup to install the races and yes, I have greased everything up before installation. Should they be seated flush or recessed?
(https://i.ibb.co/TM3QSqj/DC1-B5-C57-6916-41-D8-A42-E-A956-CCE9803-A.jpg)
This is probably a stupid question, but is there suppose to be a dent in the headlight holder? I'm sure there isn't but it is a perfect dent. MG Cycle sells replacements but the spot welds look rather large compared to these.
(https://i.ibb.co/C1F4j02/B394-CEB6-86-EB-4870-A072-AAB8-ADCB5-C6-B.jpg)
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Where exactly does the washer go on the bottom stem? underneath the rubber cover and which side is up?
(https://i.ibb.co/4mjLRHW/7-E1-E1-B4-A-D6-C2-4-A4-E-AAC4-DC68502301-F1.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/jH5DHhL/B246150-F-CBEC-4-AC7-97-FE-BB2-D85-C89534.jpg)
Just getting setup to install the races and yes, I have greased everything up before installation. Should they be seated flush or recessed?
(https://i.ibb.co/TM3QSqj/DC1-B5-C57-6916-41-D8-A42-E-A956-CCE9803-A.jpg)
This is probably a stupid question, but is there suppose to be a dent in the headlight holder? I'm sure there isn't but it is a perfect dent. MG Cycle sells replacements but the spot welds look rather large compared to these.
(https://i.ibb.co/C1F4j02/B394-CEB6-86-EB-4870-A072-AAB8-ADCB5-C6-B.jpg)
The rubber seal goes edges upward like a cup, the metal washer goes the opposite as shown in the second photo - step down to keep the rubber seal in place.
Drive the outer races of the bearings in until they bottom. IIRC, on a Tonti that is flush.
The dent in the headlight holder is there to clear the steering lock.
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Wow Blackcat - that looks great. I smiled at all the parts laid out but said "Wow!" when I got the ice blue paint photo.
Also love the attention to detail in the queries and response - that dent is to clear the steering damper. :thumb:
Had a big Healey wrist pin drift like that on the way to the vintage races at Laguna Seca. It would smoke like crazy pulling away from a stop light - and we were driving Hwy1. A real oil pump!
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Thanks for the information. Glad that I don't have to buy repo headlight brackets so I polished them up this morning and they are good to go. I purchased one of these tools to install the steering stem bearing, probably other ways to do this but I'm sure it will come in handy down the line as I eventually need to take the CX apart as the frame has seen better days. It was powder coated by Steve Ford from Parts is Parts over 20 years ago and it's showing it's age.
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-steering-stem-bearing-installer-p
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Terrific project! Love the color, as well. Steering bearings flush, as Charlie said. Only a few steps ahead of you on mine.
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Terrific project! Love the color, as well. Steering bearings flush, as Charlie said. Only a few steps ahead of you on mine.
The bottom races are in a bit further than flush, there is a bung/lip/recess that they sit against, bang them in till they are home
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Got the forks rebuilt and the fairing temporarily in place. It seems to me that the best way to mount this fairing is to install the brackets and wind screen before mounting, then slip the brackets between the headlight mounting bolts. Trying to get the fairing and windscreen mounted with the brackets on the headlight is very difficult. And is there a source for rubber washers? The ones that I have are all dry rotted.
(https://i.ibb.co/wh34Wbg/4-C25605-F-3-F3-B-439-E-87-C9-4-A956-E1898-A2.jpg)
I still dislike that headlight but I guess it's sort of growing on me, I'd still like to find a Euro headlight.
(https://i.ibb.co/7gdy8V8/B531-BDA0-ADC5-48-D9-A39-F-F1-A5596-C4-CC3.jpg)
At some point I'll have to send the clocks out for new bezels. I have changed those on my Norton but the edges are not seen on those clocks, these are too difficult for a clean job by an amateur.
(https://i.ibb.co/XCmGwmX/B4052-F01-95-D9-4-BC7-9355-E12119655950.jpg)
The cam is on the way from Raceco, but unfortunately it maybe awhile until I can get back to finishing up the engine.
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That's the way I mount the fairing: bracket to fairing first, then slip onto headlight bolts and tighten.
I use these rubber washers:
https://www.mcmaster.com/90131A102
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That's the way I mount the fairing: bracket to fairing first, then slip onto headlight bolts and tighten.
I use these rubber washers:
https://www.mcmaster.com/90131A102
Charlie, Thanks. Guess I'll put together a McMaster order because the hodgepodge of nuts and bolts that I have for this bike are just a mess even after running them through the cleaner and the blaster.
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I'm at a loss for where these parts go as I don't see them in the parts book. Obviously the two at the bottom are for hooking up some electrical plugs but I don't know where exactly they are located. I assume under the tank but the other parts are not familiar to me. Thanks.
(https://i.ibb.co/zx7vw07/98-A20-FBF-A509-4273-ADBC-AA861-F055-C85.jpg)
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I'm at a loss for where these parts go as I don't see them in the parts book. Obviously the two at the bottom are for hooking up some electrical plugs but I don't know where exactly they are located. I assume under the tank but the other parts are not familiar to me. Thanks.
(https://i.ibb.co/zx7vw07/98-A20-FBF-A509-4273-ADBC-AA861-F055-C85.jpg)
The top one holds the starter relay on the V7 Sport and 850-T, it's not used on your Le Mans. Left to right on the bottom row: a) Molex bracket under the tank, b) same, and c) the correct starter relay bracket which mounts on the right, under the fuseblock and rear master cylinder. It's secured to the frame by the long bolt-like thing with a tapered end that the sidecover slips onto at the bottom.
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Thanks.
Ok, I see the frame bracket for one of these two items. Does this one go here?:
(https://i.ibb.co/tBQnNKs/723-DFA74-6547-48-F2-A5-E7-3316-CC4-C5-CA9.jpg)
Or this one?:
(https://i.ibb.co/xMsN1xb/17470-B54-DBA6-4-E61-BA1-C-7-D5-E9-C4-C5-E21.jpg)
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Thanks.
Ok, I see the frame bracket for one of these two items. Does this one go here?:
According to the parts diagram, it's the first one.
(https://i.ibb.co/tBQnNKs/723-DFA74-6547-48-F2-A5-E7-3316-CC4-C5-CA9.jpg)
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Some 77 Le Mans pics, may be of help
Front frame molex support tab
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2725_zpssfahdrqk.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2725_zpssfahdrqk.jpg.html)
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2724_zpsy6txqbkv.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2724_zpsy6txqbkv.jpg.html)
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2343_zpskoq3f1g7.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2343_zpskoq3f1g7.jpg.html)
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_1789_zpsr9bmyhhr.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_1789_zpsr9bmyhhr.jpg.html)
Fuse block
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2156_zpsyexwuoo6.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2156_zpsyexwuoo6.jpg.html)
rear master cylinder
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2152_zpsiqqzrpvh.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2152_zpsiqqzrpvh.jpg.html)
coils
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2118_zps5lrwmetb.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2118_zps5lrwmetb.jpg.html)
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_1813_zpsttqcevok.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_1813_zpsttqcevok.jpg.html)
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_1811_zps6fkrmd9h.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_1811_zps6fkrmd9h.jpg.html)
rectifier
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2121_zpsb3t9gg2w.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2121_zpsb3t9gg2w.jpg.html)
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2117_zpsbhao9o13.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2117_zpsbhao9o13.jpg.html)
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_1819_zps5a4d5a9e.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_1819_zps5a4d5a9e.jpg.html)
rectifier and flaser holder
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_1820_zpslrqovyo7.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_1820_zpslrqovyo7.jpg.html)
(https://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg217/canuck750/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2048_zps4b5j8id6.jpg) (https://s249.photobucket.com/user/canuck750/media/1977%20Moto%20Guzzi%20le%20Mans/IMG_2048_zps4b5j8id6.jpg.html)
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Thanks,
I'm familiar with some of these locations which are common to my CX but the brackets were a mystery. Obviously, only two of the brackets in this collection of parts are applicable.
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Well, I was hoping to finish up the engine today and I installed the wrist pin on one of the pistons without issue but the one below is too tight. Both rod's have new bushings but this one is not freely moving on the wrist pin and I'm reluctant to go ahead and install it without solving this issue. I'm guessing that it needs to have a hone run through this rod for a better fit and so I will take it to the machine shop and let them do this unless someone else has a better idea. Just for background I put both wrist pins in the freezer over night, heated up the pistons and used a socket to drive in the pin.
(https://i.ibb.co/zrXN9my/9-D823672-0932-43-B4-B954-36240-DAE09-C7.jpg)
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Well, I was hoping to finish up the engine today and I installed the wrist pin on one of the pistons without issue but the one below is too tight. Both rod's have new bushings but this one is not freely moving on the wrist pin and I'm reluctant to go ahead and install it without solving this issue. I'm guessing that it needs to have a hone run through this rod for a better fit and so I will take it to the machine shop and let them do this unless someone else has a better idea. Just for background I put both wrist pins in the freezer over night, heated up the pistons and used a socket to drive in the pin.
(https://i.ibb.co/zrXN9my/9-D823672-0932-43-B4-B954-36240-DAE09-C7.jpg)
Sounds like a trip to the machine shop is in order. :sad:
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Sounds like a trip to the machine shop is in order. :sad:
Yeah, I had a friend of mine who is a car mechanic look at the rod/piston and he said the same thing. In the meantime, the tires came and I now have the discs mounted on the rims with new nuts and bolts(didn't have any of those items) and I'll mount the tires tonight or tomorrow.
I was hoping to get this engine together this weekend.....oh well.
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Well, I got the engine together and in the frame.
(https://i.ibb.co/BnWVQNy/6-DFBD167-C464-4307-9-FEA-E23290-F38-C9-B.jpg)
I still need to install the carrier bearing and u-joint in the swing arm, unfortunately I am going out of town for about a month.
(https://i.ibb.co/8nCD6kj/9-BD31755-7-A12-44-BB-93-A7-82-E02-E6-DB7-C7.jpg)
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:thumb: :thumb:
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Looking very good! And I like your engine stand. :)
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Looking very good! And I like your engine stand. :)
Thanks, the factory stand is worth owning.
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Thanks, the factory stand is worth owning.
I had one and found that I didn't use it much, sold it last Summer.
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I had one and found that I didn't use it much, sold it last Summer.
I'm surprised that you didn't use it that much. Mine has been quite handy for this kind of work and working on the front forks.
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I'm surprised that you didn't use it that much. Mine has been quite handy for this kind of work and working on the front forks.
Most of my work has been on Loopframes, doesn't work on them. :wink: I have a "lift jack" that is a lot more useful to me.
(https://i.ibb.co/9q28qbB/lift-jack.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9q28qbB)
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What have you guys done to improve the looks of old calipers? These don’t look too bad and I probably will vapor blast them but is there some paint treatment that will work?
(https://i.ibb.co/2nzyd2H/BCF2-AFBF-0208-4-EAB-A1-B2-023-B0-CCEA651.jpg)
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I got mine Cerakoted...very nice finish that is close to original and hard wearing
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What have you guys done to improve the looks of old calipers? These don’t look too bad and I probably will vapor blast them but is there some paint treatment that will work?
(https://i.ibb.co/2nzyd2H/BCF2-AFBF-0208-4-EAB-A1-B2-023-B0-CCEA651.jpg)
I think Jim (canuck750) has them re-anodized - the Morini caliper he sold me was done that way and looks great.
(https://i.ibb.co/PjDZp5Y/Morini-parts-from-Jim-004.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PjDZp5Y)
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Original finish was hard anodized black. I was lucky to find a local anodizing shop that does my stuff for real cheap, about $3.00 per half a caliber. I used my Vapor blaster to strip the anodized finish. If you want a shine to the finish you have to polish up the aluminum prior to anodizing. The anodized process is so thin that it’s practically transparent. The Grimeca caliber I sent Charlie was Vapor blaster and anodized but no pre polishing. Factory finish was a little shinier so next time I will lightly polish the caliber castings prior to anodizing.
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I got mine Cerakoted...very nice finish that is close to original and hard wearing
The guy who does my powder coating also does this finish. Can you post a photo? Thanks.
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Original finish was hard anodized black. I was lucky to find a local anodizing shop that does my stuff for real cheap, about $3.00 per half a caliber. I used my Vapor blaster to strip the anodized finish. If you want a shine to the finish you have to polish up the aluminum prior to anodizing. The anodized process is so thin that it’s practically transparent. The Grimeca caliber I sent Charlie was Vapor blaster and anodized but no pre polishing. Factory finish was a little shinier so next time I will lightly polish the caliber castings prior to anodizing.
I’ll have to do a search and see if anyone locally does anodizing.
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(https://ibb.co/CH5qQLh)(https://ibb.co/9r42Z6q)This is what cerakote looks like.....slightly less matt than anodising i'd say .Apparently much harder wearing and doesn't fade.I got mine done by Ducatipaddy http://www.ducatipaddy.com/ as he does this as part as part as his refurbishment ...of course you'll be able to get a local service but in France there are only a couple of people who do it and they didn't have a good record.(https://ibb.co/CH5qQLh
https://ibb.co/9r42Z6q)
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(https://ibb.co/CH5qQLh)(https://ibb.co/9r42Z6q)This is what cerakote looks like.....slightly less matt than anodising i'd say .Apparently much harder wearing and doesn't fade.I got mine done by Ducatipaddy http://www.ducatipaddy.com/ as he does this as part as part as his refurbishment ...of course you'll be able to get a local service but in France there are only a couple of people who do it and they didn't have a good record.(https://ibb.co/CH5qQLh
https://ibb.co/9r42Z6q)
I’ll see what the local guy has in terms of the finish. Thanks for posting this link.
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Also looking for one of these clutch assembly’s with the light indicator:
(https://i.ibb.co/yRL3s9F/C8-DB08-A6-9-ADB-4037-82-DC-C8311-EF3-E36-F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yRL3s9F)
Does anyone have a clutch assembly as above that they want to sell?
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I’ll see what the local guy has in terms of the finish. Thanks for posting this link.
Sorry that I couldn't post pictures of mine BC...my flickr account has been wiped out ...I obviously havn't got a handle on how to do pictures here with the other one !
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The u-joint isn't exactly slipping all the way on to the splines of the transmission. The flutes seem fine, but it seems like there is some surface rust on the shaft. Don't know exactly what is the best way to handle this, I was thinking of using a file to clean up the rust.
(https://i.ibb.co/mJgVfLT/03-DAA1-B5-F342-480-A-A36-D-83407-F5-F3204.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/G0Gcvrq/90-E16335-9430-4-E06-8961-2-EDA70-CE4-E62.jpg)
Also, does the yellow marked end on the u-joint go to the transmission of final drive coupling?
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A light touch with a file might be all it needs, may be a small but stopping it sliding.
Painted end on UJ towards gearbox.
Can't tell by photo, but install it in the swing arm first, will likely need to freeze it and make up some guides/supports to knock in to carrier bearing.
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Remove the rust, otherwise it combines with the grease to make a nice grinding paste, accelerating wear. Got a Dremel? That's what I'd use to get into the splines and clean away the rust.
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A light touch with a file might be all it needs, may be a small but stopping it sliding.
Painted end on UJ towards gearbox.
Can't tell by photo, but install it in the swing arm first, will likely need to freeze it and make up some guides/supports to knock in to carrier bearing.
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Definitely get rid of the rust. Some naval jelly would be an easy option.
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Definitely get rid of the rust. Some naval jelly would be an easy option.
Took awhile but I got it all cleaned up and the swing arm is installed. I'm now waiting for what is likely the last order (for a while) from MG Cycle.
(https://i.ibb.co/5FL6jhx/07-CDB660-C549-4-E73-95-AD-9-F76-F3-D78-F71.jpg)
While I'm waiting for the mufflers to get out of customs, I installed one of the original mufflers which is in bad shape. If the powder coater continues to stay open, I'll drop off some of the remaining small parts provided they don't close down due to this virus.
With the need for parts, this project is going to take some time to complete.
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Still waiting on parts, in the process of ordering the wiring harness from Greg Bender. The mufflers and headers are still in transit along with master cylinder,etc.
So in the meantime, I decided to re-look at the original mufflers as a time killer:
(https://i.ibb.co/hMyB4QY/IMG-1487.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/cwFj59p/IMG-1485.jpg)
The left muffler was in sad shape with a couple of holes, so both muffler's were coated with naval jelly and I sanded everything down and primed and painted with whatever old Krylon was sitting on the shelves.
(https://i.ibb.co/tZQNqW6/IMG-0528.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/YQBC9DT/IMG-0527.jpg)
I hope to not have to use those muffler's as I'm sure the left one will just pop out the Bondo when started, mostly did it just for aesthetics. And I only bolted up the headers as I don't want to fit the crossover and muffler's as I might damage some paint in trying to pull everything apart.
Hopefully within the next few weeks the header's and muffler's will get released from customs, but with them likely being in NYC that may take a little longer depending on how much worse it gets there in the coming days.
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Also, looking for a pair of the original grey velocity stacks.
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:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
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Looks great! I've got my velocity stacks but going to run some filters for longevity. Your paint looks great. Seems like there was a mix of chrome and black handlebars.
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This is looking so nice bc, great work on the canisters.
Man, that color, just wow...!
Best,
Rob
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Looks great! I've got my velocity stacks but going to run some filters for longevity. Your paint looks great. Seems like there was a mix of chrome and black handlebars.
Yeah, I will use filters on this engine but I'd like to have the stacks just to have them. Honestly, I'd rather have the black handlebars but this is what I got with this project.
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This is looking so nice bc, great work on the canisters.
Man, that color, just wow...!
Best,
Rob
They look OK from 5-8 feet away with my old eyes.
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I believe all the blue lemans had black bars, but not 100%, though I never saw a red one Ne with the black bars.
The black is actually just black zinc (can't be paint as the switches ground through the bars)
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A LeMans in blue is just so darn pretty.
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A LeMans in blue is just so darn pretty.
Agreed! Makes me want to paint mine blue!
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Just for grins. Factory photo.
(https://i.postimg.cc/B6hsgYD4/IMG-E6430.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TLWZ2cC4)
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A couple of photo's of the wiring harness getting installed.
(https://i.ibb.co/cKnHK3L/60805750425-6-BD253-AE-3-D84-4-CC3-B167-BF2782357649.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/5L9dt26/IMG-0558.jpg)
I'm almost all done with the installation. The harness is from Greg Bender and I also installed his relay harness for the headlight, horn and coils.
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Even the most simple Tonti has a $hitload of wiring! :grin: Looking good.
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Even the most simple Tonti has a $hitload of wiring! :grin: Looking good.
True, it doesn't help that I ran out of zip ties and I don't exactly feel like getting all dressed up in a space suit just to get a package of them from auto zone.
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I have a guess that the one on the top is a voltage regulator as the three prong connector fits the post configuration though I don't know what the other fitting is for on that device. But I'm not sure about the bottom device, I thought it might be the turn signal flasher but it has too many fittings and if it is the flasher where exactly is it mounted under the right side panel cover.
(https://i.ibb.co/8240svc/3-AA3502-E-3-B22-4-D0-B-B5-BD-9027-DB971647.jpg)
The guide without the rubber bushing is for the brake line under the tank, just need to find some rubber that will fit. And I know that at least one of the other fittings is for the brake line to one of the front brakes and I assume the other one is for the other brake line but I just want to confirm that before working on the brake lines and I end up being wrong in that assumption.
(https://i.ibb.co/n0dxKyj/E17-E36-BC-B613-47-DD-98-A8-905-BCC22-B44-B.jpg)
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I have a guess that the one on the top is a voltage regulator as the three prong connector fits the post configuration though I don't know what the other fitting is for on that device. But I'm not sure about the bottom device, I thought it might be the turn signal flasher but it has too many fittings and if it is the flasher where exactly is it mounted under the right side panel cover.
(https://i.ibb.co/8240svc/3-AA3502-E-3-B22-4-D0-B-B5-BD-9027-DB971647.jpg)
Top one is the starter relay, the bottom one the headlight/horn relay.
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Charlie, thanks. As interesting as they are, I'm going to pass on re-installing them.
"Top one is the starter relay, the bottom one the headlight/horn relay."
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Does anyone have the control valve from the oil pan? Not something regularly found on eBay or the usual suspects.
(https://i.ibb.co/6gDrbm6/789-F6-C8-D-F404-4-E9-B-92-EC-993-EE716-ED7-E.jpg)
#14 in the photo.
While that photo is up, how in the world doe you get that vent hose into #45? On my CX I just left it drop straight down because I couldn't get the hose in there but I'd like to get this one to work. Other than trimming down the outside edges, I have no idea how to get it in place.
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The oil pressure relief valve (which is also #15-#21)? I have two extras - one that "pops off" at too low pressure, would need to check the other one.
To get that hose through the holder, I cut the end of the hose at about a 60* angle, spray it down with silicone spray, stuff the pointed end through, grab it with pliers and pull it the rest of the way through. Cut to desired length. Helps if you use hose that isn't constructed too stiff.
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I believe all the blue lemans had black bars, but not 100%, though I never saw a red one Ne with the black bars.
The black is actually just black zinc (can't be paint as the switches ground through the bars)
All the 76 and most 77's Lemans came with chrome handlebars. Late in 77 and all 78's came with black handlebars and black lower fork legs.
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The oil pressure relief valve (which is also #15-#21)? I have two extras - one that "pops off" at too low pressure, would need to check the other one.
To get that hose through the holder, I cut the end of the hose at about a 60* angle, spray it down with silicone spray, stuff the pointed end through, grab it with pliers and pull it the rest of the way through. Cut to desired length. Helps if you use hose that isn't constructed too stiff.
Charlie, Thanks. PM me how much you want and I will send you my address.
Good idea on the hose.
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"I believe all the blue lemans had black bars, but not 100%, though I never saw a red one Ne with the black bars.
The black is actually just black zinc (can't be paint as the switches ground through the bars)
All the 76 and most 77's Lemans came with chrome handlebars. Late in 77 and all 78's came with black handlebars and black lower fork legs."
Thanks.
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Charlie, Thanks. PM me how much you want and I will send you my address.
Good idea on the hose.
I'll dig one out today and test it for proper operation.
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I'll dig one out today and test it for proper operation.
OK, thanks.
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In the mail today.
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In the mail today.
Thanks.
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Ok, how do I open this switch up to install the new wires? I’m sure it’s simple but the last thing that I want to do is make a mistake with this NOS switch.
(https://i.ibb.co/TWG8cXK/E440-A9-B5-5-FF9-4556-BC3-E-66-B847-C43-C2-E.jpg)
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As you are holding the switch in the picture just pull the left hand away from the right, its as simple as that. I would recommend using a conductive epoxy to attach the new wires to the switch rather than risk soldering.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yYKq7bws/IMG-2126.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MX93Dd6F)
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What he said, can't recomend the conductive epoxy enough as the original switches are particularly fragile.
It's often sold as "de-mister" or "de-fogger" adhesive for car rear windscreen heater connections.
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Thanks guys.
I don’t even want to touch these things, but it has to be done. Will springs fly out as it comes apart and is it difficult to get back together?
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Pull the switch apart slowly the sprung piece should not fly away. These switches are crap but I think they belong on a bike as rare as the LeMans. Clean the individual pieces carefully and reassembly should go smoothly.
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Pull the switch apart slowly the sprung piece should not fly away. These switches are crap but I think they belong on a bike as rare as the LeMans. Clean the individual pieces carefully and reassembly should go smoothly.
Thanks
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This little ground contact is critical, the tab must ground through the clip-ons across the fork tubes to the frame. Not the best design in my opinion.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BvMkpZ6v/IMG-1973.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/674M5XCs)
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I had the most difficulty getting the light rocker switch tp work well.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mDTMLRN7/IMG-2563.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4KFnPD03)
There is a insulation sheet that insulates the contacts from the clip-ons, the swatch of isolation had torn on the switch I had and I replaced it with a section of PVC tape.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bJLndM3W/IMG-2564.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KkkjH9XD)
The tape has to bind to the inside of the switch but slide around the clip-on as the rocker is rotated.
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Just took my RH switch apart but was cleaner than Canucks. Just gently pull the inside ring apart. Worked mine out gently with the tip of a small flat screwdriver. The red kill switch springs and metal contact are loose-ish.
I’m dealing with LH switch issues. Mine has this little strip of foil which I’m guessing was OEM where Canuck had to use the pvc tape. May be going back in to investigate.
(https://i.ibb.co/5TsywJR/E7-C085-CA-B842-47-E2-9-CF1-5-A895575-D82-D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5TsywJR)
(https://i.ibb.co/q7LhCT8/F8-C274-CD-7-DA7-4-B7-F-A421-0282-DF808-D8-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q7LhCT8)
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I got everything hooked up, fortunately I have a Nos headlight switch and that works perfectly fine. The horn worked for one blast and now I've just got a clicking relay and I'm not getting anything out of the starter button. I haven't tried the turn signal switch yet as I don't have the turn signals mounted as the front and rear brackets are in NYC and I have no idea when I'll get back there for that stash of parts. I'll just rig up the lights and see what happens.
Waiting on some carb jets, have to static time the ignition then it's just gas and see what happens. Maybe by the end of the week.
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This little ground contact is critical, the tab must ground through the clip-ons across the fork tubes to the frame. Not the best design in my opinion.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BvMkpZ6v/IMG-1973.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/674M5XCs)
Hmmm....I wonder if that is why I'm not having any success with the starter button?
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If anyone needs a few of these "lock washers", let me know, I have a whole box of them.
(https://i.ibb.co/mJ1b56L/switch-lock-washer.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mJ1b56L)
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Holy smokes, Charlie...just pinged MG for one...I'll buy a couple from you. Mine's lost its snap as I've pulled my LH controls off a couple times for troubleshooting.
I've got some spare SS fasteners for you, as well. Way overbought. Brad
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Lesrned the hard way on the RH bar contact. I had not sanded off the powder coat in the right spot. Engine would crank, but sure cranked more enthusiastically once I’d gotten the right contact point on the bar stripped. The RH switch is super simple as long as the wiring is in good shape. Adding a couple more pics from diff angles.
(https://i.ibb.co/t2C7hqS/20-C594-FA-B015-4-F28-A927-743-CB0-E7939-D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t2C7hqS)
(https://i.ibb.co/Wf3Yrk5/21-D59681-51-B5-4-E78-BD55-68864-CC28661.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Wf3Yrk5)
(https://i.ibb.co/xHr22TH/76-B67659-48-C4-4-BA3-A25-C-7088-B9-A890-B3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xHr22TH)
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Holy smokes, Charlie...just pinged MG for one...I'll buy a couple from you. Mine's lost its snap as I've pulled my LH controls off a couple times for troubleshooting.
I've got some spare SS fasteners for you, as well. Way overbought. Brad
Send me your mailing address and I'll get some out to you.
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If anyone needs a few of these "lock washers", let me know, I have a whole box of them.
(https://i.ibb.co/mJ1b56L/switch-lock-washer.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mJ1b56L)
Where do these lock washers go?
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Lesrned the hard way on the RH bar contact. I had not sanded off the powder coat in the right spot. Engine would crank, but sure cranked more enthusiastically once I’d gotten the right contact point on the bar stripped. The RH switch is super simple as long as the wiring is in good shape. Adding a couple more pics from diff angles.
(https://i.ibb.co/t2C7hqS/20-C594-FA-B015-4-F28-A927-743-CB0-E7939-D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t2C7hqS)
(https://i.ibb.co/Wf3Yrk5/21-D59681-51-B5-4-E78-BD55-68864-CC28661.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Wf3Yrk5)
(https://i.ibb.co/xHr22TH/76-B67659-48-C4-4-BA3-A25-C-7088-B9-A890-B3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xHr22TH)
My clip-ons are chrome so that shouldn't? be an issue. I haven't revisited this problem today, currently working on bleeding these GD brakes! I got the front brake semi-working but the linked brakes are just a pain.
Back to the right switch, the fact that I don't hear a relay clicking makes me think the switch isn't grounding. Is there a simple way to check these switches for ground? I'm terrible with electrics.
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Where do these lock washers go?
They slip on the clip-ons and hold the switches in against the lever perches.
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They slip on the clip-ons and hold the switches in against the lever perches.
OK, I missed those items. Sure I’ll take some, let me know the cost. I was wondering what was supposed to keep the switches from moving around.
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I had one of the lock rings on the LH side but not the right. The Right side appears to have one or two of the little molded locating tabs broken off the switch body--keeps it from sliding round the bar. Seems to stay put with a little side pressure from the throttle assembly.
I'm using Greg Benders relays and there is an audilble "click" at the relay when you hit the starter button. The horn is nocticeably louder with his relay, btw.
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I had one of the lock rings on the LH side but not the right. The Right side appears to have one or two of the little molded locating tabs broken off the switch body--keeps it from sliding round the bar. Seems to stay put with a little side pressure from the throttle assembly.
I'm using Greg Benders relays and there is an audilble "click" at the relay when you hit the starter button. The horn is nocticeably louder with his relay, btw.
I also installed Greg's bank of relays and I got one blast from the horn and that was it, now the relay just clicks. I'm guessing it is a grounding issue from that switch but I could be wrong.
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I installed a new reground P3 cam from Raceco using the stock springs, anyone know if I should use stiffer springs? MG Cycle sells a P3 but they don't mention that stiffer springs will have to be used with their cam, so I assumed that was the same with mine and Amadeo from Raceco didn't mention anything either. Guess I'll email him and see what he has to say.
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Well, it’s basically all together. Unfortunately I’m going to have to take the heads off and bring them back to the machine shop and have them shim the springs to 32mm according to Raceco. Amedeo said the stock springs are fine for this cam provided they are shimmed. I measured the springs today and I have no idea if I’m right but with no compression and measuring from the cylinder head to the spring crown I came up with 40mm. It seems like shimming 8mm is a lot to me and or I measured it the wrong way. Had I known before ordering this cam that this needed to be done I probably would have taken a different route. Oh well, I’ve barely gotten the front brake bleed and the linked brakes are not even close so I can work on them while this shop work is being done.
Kind of disappointing as I got the Dyna static timed this morning and would like to start the engine, but I’ll wait until this is sorted.
(https://i.ibb.co/qnm8nRs/3-D84-D4-F5-A6-CB-4629-A7-F6-ABEAF4-ABA516.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/SmgBWk2/FA1-E5688-19-F9-4-FC4-A140-A32-BAA89-B407.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/gTQ94zZ/D4-BCB6-FF-8-CE8-4-AC5-A058-5216-BEBCBFC5.jpg)
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Looks great! We have similar taste in bikes and dogs--nice looking boxer.
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Looks great! We have similar taste in bikes and dogs--nice looking boxer.
Thanks, that is Candy. She is an 8 year old Boxer who is my daily shadow and we have had Boxers for 40+ years.
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Same story. We’ve had them since I was a kid. Here’s our 7 yr old Lucy.
(https://i.ibb.co/ctVsK9k/B1-F8-A606-0-A7-D-4-F4-B-908-F-73702-F3-FDA6-F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ctVsK9k)
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Are those your new Lafranconis posted on FB?
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The bike looks great! … nice dog as well.
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Are those your new Lafranconis posted on FB?
Yes, those are mine and my dog.
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Same story. We’ve had them since I was a kid. Here’s our 7 yr old Lucy.
(https://i.ibb.co/ctVsK9k/B1-F8-A606-0-A7-D-4-F4-B-908-F-73702-F3-FDA6-F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ctVsK9k)
I'm sure you have done the "Lucy I'm home" a few times.
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The bike looks great! … nice dog as well.
Thanks.
OK, getting back to the grounding of these switches. Other than pulling them off and making sure the grommets are grounded is there some other way to create a ground?
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Thanks.
OK, getting back to the grounding of these switches. Other than pulling them off and making sure the grommets are grounded is there some other way to create a ground?
Its easy enough to run a ground wire from the switch along the existing switch loom wires and connect to the frame. I always add dedicated ground wires to the signal lights rather than relying on ground through the signal light stems.
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Its easy enough to run a ground wire from the switch along the existing switch loom wires and connect to the frame. I always add dedicated ground wires to the signal lights rather than relying on ground through the signal light stems.
Guess I should have done that from the get go, taking these switches off with the wires in the handlebars is not much fun. Anyway, thanks!
Charley,I got the washers, Thanks!
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I feared taking the switches off, but was not as hard as I'd feared once you get going. Shot a little silicone down the bars to help them slide out without being grabby. Patience and reading glasses to make sure I didn't break something small. They are pretty simple once you get everything apart. Definitely need the little tool to punch out the pins from the connector blocks. Greg can point to the source--was maybe $14 via Amazon.
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I feared taking the switches off, but was not as hard as I'd feared once you get going. Shot a little silicone down the bars to help them slide out without being grabby. Patience and reading glasses to make sure I didn't break something small. They are pretty simple once you get everything apart. Definitely need the little tool to punch out the pins from the connector blocks. Greg can point to the source--was maybe $14 via Amazon.
I have the tool but I did break two of the pins which is a bummer but I had some extra pins. Still haven't solved the problem as I got side tracked on something else.
Next question, where exactly are these brake line guides mounted? Were there holes (not on this fender) on both sides of the fender or are they mounted to the studs for the fender?
(https://i.ibb.co/JrqcmMF/2793-E4-C2-4105-4480-9508-4308-C65-E8897.jpg)
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And I found a NOS pair of velocity stacks. Stupid things were expensive, but less than some others that were all beat up.
(https://i.ibb.co/qJzGs9Y/95097813-2631017643886075-282000663527817216-n.jpg)
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I have the tool but I did break two of the pins which is a bummer but I had some extra pins. Still haven't solved the problem as I got side tracked on something else.
Next question, where exactly are these brake line guides mounted? Were there holes (not on this fender) on both sides of the fender or are they mounted to the studs for the fender?
(https://i.ibb.co/JrqcmMF/2793-E4-C2-4105-4480-9508-4308-C65-E8897.jpg)
That looks like the long one that is frame mounted under the tank
(https://i.postimg.cc/4xy6DJ4M/IMG-2052.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4YCHtR9b)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kcq9Hsx0/IMG-2064.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/grhqwswh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3JQhdRDM/IMG-2042.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LhDwWmTv)
the short ones go on each fender
(https://i.postimg.cc/FsQ0Hyrj/IMG-1825.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t72srVVT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RhrGb04v/P7060009.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5Y3wXbXr)
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Thanks, I don't have any of those short ones in my stash of parts and MG Cycle doesn't sell them, just the rubber grommets. Harper's shows them on their website but I don't trust that they have the part based on past experience so I will call on Monday. Weird that this fender doesn't have the holes as it is an original fender.
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The factory parts manual doesn't show any hose guides on the front fender at all.
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I don't know if the brake hose guides are stock I only assumed they were, when I got my LeMans the forks lowers had been reversed with the calipers on the back and the hose guides behind the fork lowers.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jSZTVpDp/P6290058.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4Y7qVFbP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ydwBQ0DW/P6290053.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZtL7ZtH)
When I google 1977 Moto Guzzi 850 LeMans, most of the bikes that appear to be stock or original have these hose guides. Google images of the 1976 show sporadic use of the guides, Maybe Guzzi added the guides late 1976 production?
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The factory parts manual doesn't show any hose guides on the front fender at all.
You have to look on page 15 (September 1978 Edition)with the brake lines as there is a part number (14659750) that is different than the guide (17659750) underneath the tank. Harpers shows the front fender guides on their website, but I have been down that road with them before so I never order anything on line as it’s better to just call them for confirmation.
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Well, can't find the brackets anywhere so I guess I'll just move on until a pair shows up somewhere. I thought about cutting and bending the two that I have but it is unlikely I'm skilled enough to pull that one off.
I have the single caliper working reasonably well, but the linked brakes are a problem. The rear caliper has a leak and I've taken it apart numerous times but I don't see anything and I don't quite know what to do about this one. Guess I'll take it apart again and pull the plunger to see if there is something in there; guess that is the risk one takes when purchasing used calipers on eBay though these two looked perfectly fine when they arrived. The drip is very minor, but obviously this won't fly.
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Well, can't find the brackets anywhere so I guess I'll just move on until a pair shows up somewhere. I thought about cutting and bending the two that I have but it is unlikely I'm skilled enough to pull that one off.
I have the single caliper working reasonably well, but the linked brakes are a problem. The rear caliper has a leak and I've taken it apart numerous times but I don't see anything and I don't quite know what to do about this one. Guess I'll take it apart again and pull the plunger to see if there is something in there; guess that is the risk one takes when purchasing used calipers on eBay though these two looked perfectly fine when they arrived. The drip is very minor, but obviously this won't fly.
The agony of chasing leaking Brembo calipers :angry:, I can relate, both of the twin bleeder calipers I put on my Ducati 860 GT bike wept from the caliper body joint, the little O ring is the culprit. On both Brembo calipers the stock O ring that came with the new Brembo seal kit did not seal correctly. I have a big box of these calipers disassembled awaiting refinishing and looking at half a dozen the depth of the recess that takes the O ring is inconsistent on these calipers, the machining is all over the place. On one pair I had to fit a larger O ring and a smaller O ring on the other. I would start with checking the O rings, very rare to find a leak between the pistons and the caliper flat O ring seals.
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Well, can't find the brackets anywhere so I guess I'll just move on until a pair shows up somewhere. I thought about cutting and bending the two that I have but it is unlikely I'm skilled enough to pull that one off.
Check Harper's - Curtis is listing used ones
http://www.harpermoto.com/?subcats=Y&status=A&pshort=N&pfull=N&pname=Y&pkeywords=Y&search_performed=Y&q=55436525&dispatch=products.search
HOLDER (#55436525) USED ONLY = $4.00
TLM shows the picture for this part but unfortunately not in stock
https://shop.tlm.nl/en/nla-guide-brake-cable-554365250000-moto-guzzi
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The agony of chasing leaking Brembo calipers :angry:, I can relate, both of the twin bleeder calipers I put on my Ducati 860 GT bike wept from the caliper body joint, the little O ring is the culprit. On both Brembo calipers the stock O ring that came with the new Brembo seal kit did not seal correctly. I have a big box of these calipers disassembled awaiting refinishing and looking at half a dozen the depth of the recess that takes the O ring is inconsistent on these calipers, the machining is all over the place. On one pair I had to fit a larger O ring and a smaller O ring on the other. I would start with checking the O rings, very rare to find a leak between the pistons and the caliper flat O ring seals.
Guess I’ll take it apart again and look at the little o ring. Where did you source a supply of those little things?
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Check Harper's - Curtis is listing used ones
http://www.harpermoto.com/?subcats=Y&status=A&pshort=N&pfull=N&pname=Y&pkeywords=Y&search_performed=Y&q=55436525&dispatch=products.search
HOLDER (#55436525) USED ONLY = $4.00
TLM shows the picture for this part but unfortunately not in stock
https://shop.tlm.nl/en/nla-guide-brake-cable-554365250000-moto-guzzi
I talked to Curtis on Monday and he was going to get back to me if he found any used ones, but no word back from him. Not exactly a big sale so this isn’t high on his list.
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I spent hours trying to bleed my linked brakes. I had installed a rebuild kit in the rear master cylinder and was convinced it was okay. Finally I ordered a new rear master and bled the system in 15 minutes.
After talking to Leafman, he suggested taking it apart again and look over the pistons real close with a magnifying glass to see if there is a flaw somewhere and re-cleaning the entire caliper to make sure there isn't some gunk in there somewhere. Normally I would have replaced these calipers with new ones but I wanted the double bleeder calipers as per what was originally on the bike.
But I did get it started today for a second, but one of the carbs was leaking and the starter/kill switch has a problem with intermittent killing of power to the coils so I'll tackle both of those items tomorrow.
This was after pulling the heads,etc. to install new cam followers like I should have done from the beginning.
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I'm having one of those times trying to get the bike started. I installed a Dyna and everything went fine, then it was only sparking on one side so I installed the points, then they weren't working right either. Turns out the pin to the distributor gear sheared off which gave me some worry for a minute until I found the head on top of cam gear. Installed a roll pin to anchor the gear, re-installed the dizzy, set up the points as best I could as I haven't done this in like 15 plus years. I have spark to both plugs but no start. Not even a burp. Sprayed some starter fluid in both carbs but that didn't do much of anything but ignite on the first stroke and that was about it.
Going to start all over again tomorrow with the installation of the distributor as per Guzziology and go from there. As per Haynes, I have the points opening at the retard line and I've incrementally moved the distributor in both directions but nothing.
I'm wondering if I should use a degree wheel to check the cam timing as this isn't a stock cam in the bike.
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I routed my hoses as below after studying period pics and how they came from the PO. I may have an original under tank loop if you come up empty.
(https://i.ibb.co/DDNY19C/454-CFDC0-9792-4-D69-948-D-6541071-D7-CDC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDNY19C)
(https://i.ibb.co/JRrrQrj/DFEB1-F71-EE6-D-48-ED-9-AF0-1-F7-B5992-FEF9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JRrrQrj)
why do insurance companies ask for mileage (https://carinsuranceguru.org/why-does-my-car-insurance-company-ask-how-far-i-travel-to-work)
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Thanks, I have located a pair of hose holders and a foot peg holder so I believe that i'm done with the missing parts. I even located a pair of NOS velocity stacks, which weren't cheap but I got them.
I'm still fighting with getting it to run right but I'll get it eventually.
This is about it for now. Once it gets going I have to take the side panels back for some touch ups and the inside of the fairings needs paint.
(https://i.ibb.co/FDWvTGJ/2122603-E-70-BF-4506-A40-A-4-FCFF0-B1-B505.jpg)
Oh, and the headers which I still haven't received from Teo Lamers. And then there is the Euro headlight bucket which I have no idea where that thing is at, ordered it a month ago but it is missing in the US customs void.
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Looks great, Blackcat! I've got a cranks-but-won't-start issue, myself. Have been slammed with - work and hoping to have Dr Mullendore take a look as she's 95% together. Want to get her running prior to finishing up the fairing mount, new grips, etc.
Mine appears to have decent spark, fuel flowing well through new taps, super clean carbs, etc. I regrouped and rebuilt the switchgear, re-traced the wiring and connections with my G.Bender cheatsheet and cleaned up all the routing, re-checking old photos to keep things as as-original. As people have said: there is a sh**load of wiring for 1978 considering no FI/electronic anything.
One thing I DO appreciate is the ease of taking the tank on and off. I've also learned that the blue fuel line leaks when new but seems to get some grip on the spigots after gas exposure
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Looks great, Blackcat! I've got a cranks-but-won't-start issue, myself. Have been slammed with - work and hoping to have Dr Mullendore take a look as she's 95% together. Want to get her running prior to finishing up the fairing mount, new grips, etc.
Mine appears to have decent spark, fuel flowing well through new taps, super clean carbs, etc. I regrouped and rebuilt the switchgear, re-traced the wiring and connections with my G.Bender cheatsheet and cleaned up all the routing, re-checking old photos to keep things as as-original. As people have said: there is a sh**load of wiring for 1978 considering no FI/electronic anything.
One thing I DO appreciate is the ease of taking the tank on and off. I've also learned that the blue fuel line leaks when new but seems to get some grip on the spigots after gas exposure
Thanks.
I wish that I was close to Charley as I'd just give it him to sort out these issues on mine.
For some reason I thought that yours was a running machine, good luck with the project. I have re-wired my CX a couple of times over the last almost 20 years so I'm quite familiar with those harnesses. And if you think the early Lemans has a lot of wires, the CX/SP has way more wires.
I re-torqued the heads yesterday but stupid me didn't re-adjust the valves so it didn't start and I moved on to other projects for the day. Have to give it another try this morning. I pulled the fuel taps but the filters weren't clogged, but with more gas in the tank the volume has increased but there clearly is something wrong with the fuel flow. Until I figure this one out I'm going to use the 1000S tank on the bike to rule out this particular issue.
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Nice...! Glad you've got yours running. Sounds like your just waiting on parts. Charley is great, but in high demand. And people keeping giving him projects that are more fun than LeMans wiring. Thought of offering him a 12-pack of TP...quilted, double roll--the good stuff. I have a feeling it would take him 10 min to figure out something I had bass ackwards.
I pulled my taps to check as well--I'd had my tank RedKoted since it was super clean inside and want to keep it rust free. No schmutz.
Curious how she runs. Charley suggested keeping jetting from the PO to see how it runs. Has a B10 cam. Haven't decided on original velocity stacks or K&N style filters.
- K5 Needles
- 152 main
- 265 atomizer
- 60 Idle
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Nice...! Glad you've got yours running. Sounds like your just waiting on parts. Charley is great, but in high demand. And people keeping giving him projects that are more fun than LeMans wiring. Thought of offering him a 12-pack of TP...quilted, double roll--the good stuff. I have a feeling it would take him 10 min to figure out something I had bass ackwards.
I pulled my taps to check as well--I'd had my tank RedKoted since it was super clean inside and want to keep it rust free. No schmutz.
Curious how she runs. Charley suggested keeping jetting from the PO to see how it runs. Has a B10 cam. Haven't decided on original velocity stacks or K&N style filters.
- K5 Needles
- 152 main
- 265 atomizer
- 60 Idle
My running issues have been the timing and the points as I haven't adjusted Guzzi points in like 15-18 years and now I remember why I hated them back then. Now that I've spent quite a few days playing with them I know how to do it in the future but the replacement Dyna should be here in a few days which I will install and hopefully not think about for many years.
Yesterday I got it running but not particularly well so I went back and adjusted the points again which IMO are nothing but a pain in the ass. After modifying the points plate some more, I finally got the left cylinder right and now it starts on half an engine stroke. But it isn't idling right, so more fine turning but I'll wait until the new jets arrive.
I am using the needle and jets that came with the bike but I've ordered all new items from MG Cycle which I should get on Monday and they are the same as yours but a 145 main jet. This engine has a SS/P3 Raceco cam so it has a bit more lift than the B10 if I'm not mistaken.
Lift: 8.25mm
Duration: 290 degrees.
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Well, I got the bike running but it won't idle without me feeding it gas. I've replaced all the jets and needles and adjusted the float height but even with adjusting the slide screws to maximum it still won't hold an idle. This morning I'm going to double check the float height but I would think that if it was too lean, it would starve for gas when the throttle is opened to the max and it doesn't do that. The pilot jets are new, my only other thought is that there is a plugged jet but it would seem unlikely to be plugged on both carbs.
I'm starting to think that I may be forced to buy newer carbs, have the anodized? finish removed and install the top cranks as per the original carbs.
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Look into the carb from the open end and see if the slide rises when the idle screws are turned in. If not try cutting a few coils off the idle screw spring so that the idle screw can travel further into the carb body, that may help
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Look into the carb from the open end and see if the slide rises when the idle screws are turned in. If not try cutting a few coils off the idle screw spring so that the idle screw can travel further into the carb body, that may help
I've given up, those carbs are possessed so I purchased a pair of period correct carbs from MG Cycle which should be here on Tuesday.
Right now I've got the 36's from my 1000S on the bike with the K-5 needles and the same slides that were in the old carbs. Started right up and I got it to idle in a few minutes.
Just got back from the DMV and now it's finally titled and tagged.
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Thanks, I have located a pair of hose holders and a foot peg holder so I believe that i'm done with the missing parts. I even located a pair of NOS velocity stacks, which weren't cheap but I got them.
I'm still fighting with getting it to run right but I'll get it eventually.
This is about it for now. Once it gets going I have to take the side panels back for some touch ups and the inside of the fairings needs paint.
(https://i.ibb.co/FDWvTGJ/2122603-E-70-BF-4506-A40-A-4-FCFF0-B1-B505.jpg)
Oh, and the headers which I still haven't received from Teo Lamers. And then there is the Euro headlight bucket which I have no idea where that thing is at, ordered it a month ago but it is missing in the US customs void.
Wow! That is a beauty. :thumb:
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I've given up, those carbs are possessed so I purchased a pair of period correct carbs from MG Cycle which should be here on Tuesday.
Right now I've got the 36's from my 1000S on the bike with the K-5 needles and the same slides that were in the old carbs. Started right up and I got it to idle in a few minutes.
Just got back from the DMV and now it's finally titled and tagged.
You made the right decision, I wasted a year trying to get the same carbs to function on my Laverda SF1 and now have a Frankenstein pair of 3/4 new ~ 1/4 old Dellorto monsters that still won't idle correctly no matter what I try, I know I will end up just buying a new pair.
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You made the right decision, I wasted a year trying to get the same carbs to function on my Laverda SF1 and now have a Frankenstein pair of 3/4 new ~ 1/4 old Dellorto monsters that still won't idle correctly no matter what I try, I know I will end up just buying a new pair.
MG Cycle had them on their website for a while and I'd rather get them from a trusted source then gamble on a pair (if I could find them) on eBay. They need to be cleaned up of course and I have all new jets and needles from the current carbs so this should hopefully solve the problems. I'll keep the old pair for parts,
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Fingers crossed this does the trick for you. I think it will.
I fought a carb problem on my chopper project for over a year. I had performed what I thought was a good refresh of the old S&S B carb but just couldn't get it to idle properly. I chased everything imaginable down for months. Finally I ponied up and bought a NOS S&S B carb and I was immediately rewarded with this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUOH9ZLXt4M
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Fingers crossed this does the trick for you. I think it will.
I fought a carb problem on my chopper project for over a year. I had performed what I thought was a good refresh of the old S&S B carb but just couldn't get it to idle properly. I chased everything imaginable down for months. Finally I ponied up and bought a NOS S&S B carb and I was immediately rewarded with this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUOH9ZLXt4M
Dave, That is a really nice bike. I can see owning and keeping that Harley.
The carbs are supposed to arrive today so I will clean them up install the new jets and needles and hopefully that is the end of this problem.
I finally solved the linked brake bleeding issue, the piston wasn't fully compressing due to the wrong part on the master cylinder. I wrongly assumed that the newly purchased master cylinder didn't require another part but the fine print on MC website suggest replacing the one that came with the MC with the one from the soon to be replaced MC. I didn't have a MC with this bike when I got it but fortunately I had one from my CX.
(https://i.ibb.co/stN5LjY/61213185251-73301-DAB-48-AB-4-E7-A-B401-486-CB92947-F0.jpg)
And the 40mm headers I ordered in February from Teo Lamers finally showed up today:
(https://i.ibb.co/02pk99Q/61220824781-8-FEC0393-2-A41-4018-9320-3-DD26229-B791.jpg)
I have no idea if it needs a clamp at the cross-over, hopefully it doesn't as it will be rather unsightly and I'm hoping that the stock clamps at the header will work too. Otherwise, I've got to wait awhile until those arrive.
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I routed my hoses as below after studying period pics and how they came from the PO. I may have an original under tank loop if you come up empty.
(https://i.ibb.co/DDNY19C/454-CFDC0-9792-4-D69-948-D-6541071-D7-CDC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/DDNY19C)
(https://i.ibb.co/JRrrQrj/DFEB1-F71-EE6-D-48-ED-9-AF0-1-F7-B5992-FEF9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JRrrQrj)
why do insurance companies ask for mileage (https://carinsuranceguru.org/why-does-my-car-insurance-company-ask-how-far-i-travel-to-work)
I'm missing those brake hose holders for my Le Mans. Any idea where I can get some?
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I'm missing those brake hose holders for my Le Mans. Any idea where I can get some?
I have made them with stainless steel rod of the matching diamter (or close) and heat from a torch, I bend the stainless around a pipe form then the small loop arounf needle nose pliers while red hot. Polish ot out after coolng and your done.
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I finally sourced a pair and waiting on their arrival. Thought about modifying a pair from the under tank bracket as I have a pair of those brackets and they are available on line.
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Thanks to Charley's tip I purchased a headlight from a V65 on eBay from a guy in Greece back in March and it has finally shown up and it isn't broken which is amazing given how it was just stuffed in a show box with no protection.
So I'm going from the US headlight, which I've actually sort of gotten use to.
(https://i.ibb.co/Bj19zzR/65-FAB84-A-6-DA6-4027-A0-F5-3-CF53-C4-DC9-CF.jpg)
To this after I get it powder coated including the chrome trim:
(https://i.ibb.co/rmrHC1H/7-D3-AAB26-C3-B0-4298-A973-A99-E25-DED8-D6.jpg)
Of course I will keep the original light which is all fogged up.
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I'm having one of those times trying to get the bike started. I installed a Dyna and everything went fine, then it was only sparking on one side so I installed the points, then they weren't working right either. Turns out the pin to the distributor gear sheared off which gave me some worry for a minute until I found the head on top of cam gear. Installed a roll pin to anchor the gear, re-installed the dizzy, set up the points as best I could as I haven't done this in like 15 plus years. I have spark to both plugs but no start. Not even a burp. Sprayed some starter fluid in both carbs but that didn't do much of anything but ignite on the first stroke and that was about it.
Going to start all over again tomorrow with the installation of the distributor as per Guzziology and go from there. As per Haynes, I have the points opening at the retard line and I've incrementally moved the distributor in both directions but nothing.
I'm wondering if I should use a degree wheel to check the cam timing as this isn't a stock cam in the bike.
I am in exactly this position now with Brad's (Motorad64) Le Mans. Been through everything, now looking at cam timing which is totally off for some reason. The cam is a regrind of unknown origins, so is suspect. I'll be swapping in a stock Le Mans cam to see what valve timing is with that as a "baseline".
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I am in exactly this position now with Brad's (Motorad64) Le Mans. Been through everything, now looking at cam timing which is totally off for some reason. The cam is a regrind of unknown origins, so is suspect. I'll be swapping in a stock Le Mans cam to see what valve timing is with that as a "baseline".
I did check the cam timing and it was spot on, but in my case it was just getting the points opening at the right time. My doofus problem is probably not what is going on with you and Brad's bike.
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After replacing the large final drive seal a couple of times with no real improvement in the leak I decided to pull the hub for a proper cleaning and as much as I've tried, it's toast. I could try another seal now that it is much cleaner but I have no desire to throw away more money on seals.
(https://i.ibb.co/j6YgN5K/B6-B2-C480-0335-4-D20-A3-B9-068-F483830-CA.jpg)
So, I've ordered another hub from MG Cycle and the small inner seal and I'm either going to send it to Steve for a fix or attempt to do it myself. I've been afraid of touching these bevel boxes and I feel like this might be the time to give it a go as I'm not changing the gears because they look perfectly fine to me:
(https://i.ibb.co/whjFZjz/02-A14034-C546-4590-9-CD7-958-E38039355.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/Kzhtrrq/BBA07-ED7-CC06-450-D-9792-40-FFF9-E0-F1-E0.jpg)
I've printed out Pete's written explanation and I have the shop manual but I have to think about whether I want to do this work. I was just going to put tin foil in an outside gas grille and bring it up to 250 degree's as I don't want to put it in the house oven. Need a HF two arm puller but I don't know why a slide hammer puller is needed as per a This Old Tractor special tools list.
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(https://i.ibb.co/whjFZjz/02-A14034-C546-4590-9-CD7-958-E38039355.jpg)
I've printed out Pete's written explanation and I have the shop manual but I have to think about whether I want to do this work. I was just going to put tin foil in an outside gas grille and bring it up to 250 degree's as I don't want to put it in the house oven. Need a HF two arm puller but I don't know why a slide hammer puller is needed as per a This Old Tractor special tools list.
Need the slid hammer for removing the outer race of the needle bearing in the above photo. I also use it to remove the small inner seal.
Puller is for the inner race that's on the hub.
If the needle bearing and races look good you can leave the inner on the hub, but the outer needs to come out to remove the bronze washer and get to the seal
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Warm the housing good and bang her down on a block of wood, that inner race will just fall out, careful of where you are banging on make sure there is some meat there, and I dont mean yer finger! DonG
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Warm the housing good and bang her down on a block of wood, that inner race will just fall out, careful of where you are banging on make sure there is some meat there, and I dont mean yer finger! DonG
So, stick it in the oven until it gets up to 250 degrees and then slam it down on a block of wood. And the small seal comes with it or does it melt to the side of the drive? Looks like there is a brass piece in there too
And if I don't heat it up:
I was looking at the two arm pulls from Harbor Freight and the space in side to pull out that seal. I assume there is something for the pull to grab onto but it seems very tight.
This puller looks like it might work for the inner race and the seal:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html
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So, stick it in the oven until it gets up to 250 degrees and then slam it down on a block of wood. And the small seal comes with it or does it melt to the side of the drive? Looks like there is a brass piece in there too
And if I don't heat it up:
I was looking at the two arm pulls from Harbor Freight and the space in side to pull out that seal. I assume there is something for the pull to grab onto but it seems very tight.
This puller looks like it might work for the inner race and the seal:
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html
Usually at ~ 200*F the outer race will fall out unless someone has applied bearing retainer. The thrust washer will come out with it, but the seal will need to be levered out - I use a large flat-blade screwdriver inserted under the seal and twisted to pop it out.
I have one of those pullers and was never successful using it to remove the outer race, not that it's really needed once the housing is heated.
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Usually at ~ 200*F the outer race will fall out unless someone has applied bearing retainer. The thrust washer will come out with it, but the seal will need to be levered out - I use a large flat-blade screwdriver inserted under the seal and twisted to pop it out.
I have one of those pullers and was never successful using it to remove the outer race, not that it's really needed once the housing is heated.
Thanks Charley, going to give it a try this morning. Do you usually replace the needle bearing?
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I got the grille started, put some tinfoil down on top of the grate and placed the drive in there face down, at exactly 200 degrees I heard it fall out.
(https://i.ibb.co/DMxFMBz/7-A601484-3022-4-F06-9-B3-C-78-EC16-E8-EC9-D.jpg)
The seal fell apart and it looks like the metal edge is still in there and I'm reluctant to stick a screwdriver in there to pry it out. Should I stick it back in the oven and maybe it will pop out too? Also, is there a way to remove the spacer in the middle for easier access to set the new seal?
Is heating the hub up an option to remove the race? I will need a two jaw puller from HF to get that race off and I assume the puller will have to be ground down to catch the lip of the race. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-two-jaw-puller-set-40966.html
(https://i.ibb.co/7VY0PNp/F67-D6895-013-E-4906-BD4-D-878053-B23-E3-A.jpg)
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I got the grille started, put some tinfoil down on top of the grate and placed the drive in there face down, at exactly 200 degrees I heard it fall out.
(https://i.ibb.co/DMxFMBz/7-A601484-3022-4-F06-9-B3-C-78-EC16-E8-EC9-D.jpg)
The seal fell apart and it looks like the metal edge is still in there and I'm reluctant to stick a screwdriver in there to pry it out. Should I stick it back in the oven and maybe it will pop out too? Also, is there a way to remove the spacer in the middle for easier access to set the new seal?
Is heating the hub up an option to remove the race? I will need a two jaw puller from HF to get that race off and I assume the puller will have to be ground down to catch the lip of the race. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-two-jaw-puller-set-40966.html
(https://i.ibb.co/7VY0PNp/F67-D6895-013-E-4906-BD4-D-878053-B23-E3-A.jpg)
I've never had the seal fall out even when using more heat, it will need to be pryed out. I forgot to mention removing the spacer - sometimes it will fall out once the housing is heated. Best to drive it out with an appropriate sized socket or similar while the housing is warm, but it can be done cold.
Unless you're replacing the bearing, there's no need to remove the inner race. Heating the hub will make it harder to remove. If you can heat the race only (heat gun or propane torch) it might help. I use a bearing separator of this type to remove it and usually don't heat it unless someone has used bearing retainer.
(https://i.ibb.co/rG9PYyw/bearing-separator.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rG9PYyw)
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Drive the spacer out from the outside of the rear drive after I heat it up?
I was looking at the bearing separator at HF when I was buying those two jaw pullers, guess I'll take them back and get the bearing separator. Will I have to replace the race on the hub or can I re-use the same one for the new hub?
Edit: OK, I got the spacer and the old race out.
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Drive the spacer out from the outside of the rear drive after I heat it up?
I was looking at the bearing separator at HF when I was buying those two jaw pullers, guess I'll take them back and get the bearing separator. Will I have to replace the race on the hub or can I re-use the same one for the new hub?
Edit: OK, I got the spacer and the old race out.
Forgot you are replacing the hub. If you're reusing the outer race and needles/cage, then reuse the inner race as well.
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Forgot you are replacing the hub. If you're reusing the outer race and needles/cage, then reuse the inner race as well.
Thanks.
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Did you buy the large bearing puller or the smaller kit?
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html
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Did you buy the large bearing puller or the smaller kit?
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html
I bought just the large separator, but that was years ago and mine looks different than the current offering.
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I bought just the large separator, but that was years ago and mine looks different than the current offering.
I bought the large one but can't get a bite on the edge of the bearing, going to take it back and try the smaller kit which has the puller attachments.
Maybe this one as it looks like the lip is smaller:
https://www.harborfreight.com/gear-puller-set-15-pc-62958.html
or this one:
https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html
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Finally popped the race with this kit:
(https://i.ibb.co/Y885hZG/75-D4-DFF8-C8-A9-4-B5-C-9-B84-77-A48662-EF5-F.jpg)
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:thumb:
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Put everything back together, made sure the lash was OK but had to wait a few days for the Schnorr washers to show up at Fastenal which arrived this morning.
Just got back from a ride and no runs, no drips and hopefully no errors.
(https://i.ibb.co/0FHRhgf/3-DD03530-A922-4082-9-D7-E-5-F4-A17986-F92.jpg)
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Looks like a tidy repair! Glad you're back on the road
Mine's running well save for the petcocks not liking to just dump the fuel down the line but dribbling instead.
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Good going!
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Looks like a tidy repair! Glad you're back on the road
Mine's running well save for the petcocks not liking to just dump the fuel down the line but dribbling instead.
I went through the same thing when I rebuilt the engine on my CX which had been sitting apart for months. Bike ran well when the tank was filled to the brim and starved for gas as the tank ran low on gas. The inline filters ended up being the problem so it was an easy fix.
I ran the Lemans this morning, checked the final drive temp when I got home then took out the 1000S as a comparison and the Lemans was 91 degree's and the 1000S was 104 with an outside temp of 89 degrees, so I at least know it isn't overheating from a bad mechanic who has never done this work before.
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This is the way I have routed the throttle cable for the right carb and can’t see how it can go behind the petcock. Is this the correct way for it to run?
(https://i.ibb.co/7pkyDj1/7-AEF1-EB6-E8-E9-4-FE2-9-E04-0-FB50-DEAACCC.jpg)
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Route the cables whatever way works best. Everything is tight or interferes with something it seems. :wink:
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Route the cables whatever way works best. Everything is tight or interferes with something it seems. :wink:
Yes, I just don't see any other way to route that cable but just thought I'd check. Just looks like over time that valve will start cutting through the cable so I'm going to get a cable shield for extra protection.
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I had mine set up with two individual L/R petcocks, marked BAP to a single inlet banjo on each carb. Mentioned the lean behavior when tank got low on fuel and Charlie suggested a dual inlet banjo and running a balance line. Fixed it right up. Ran all the way down to reserve then lower with nary a pop or hiccup.
She's running good. Now if only those crazy stiff FAC dampers would break in....
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This is the way I have routed the throttle cable for the right carb and can’t see how it can go behind the petcock. Is this the correct way for it to run?
(https://i.ibb.co/7pkyDj1/7-AEF1-EB6-E8-E9-4-FE2-9-E04-0-FB50-DEAACCC.jpg)
Most (including the factory i believe) Rotate the carbs inwards 10deg or so, this allows the cable to run behind the petcock - if you have a look at pics you will usually see that the carbs are tilted inwards a touch.
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This worked for me
(https://i.postimg.cc/XvFQPVQW/IMG-2404.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Y4r6GB5D)
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Most (including the factory i believe) Rotate the carbs inwards 10deg or so, this allows the cable to run behind the petcock - if you have a look at pics you will usually see that the carbs are tilted inwards a touch.
Got it, and I did note that in the factory photo’s but didn’t make the connection. Thanks!
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I had mine set up with two individual L/R petcocks, marked BAP to a single inlet banjo on each carb. Mentioned the lean behavior when tank got low on fuel and Charlie suggested a dual inlet banjo and running a balance line. Fixed it right up. Ran all the way down to reserve then lower with nary a pop or hiccup.
She's running good. Now if only those crazy stiff FAC dampers would break in....
Good on the lean fix. Yeah the FAC’s take awhile to break in, did you also go with Wirth springs? Took me about 3,000+ miles to break those in on my CX. I have the stock set up on this Lemans and so far I have no complaints.
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I had mine set up with two individual L/R petcocks, marked BAP to a single inlet banjo on each carb. Mentioned the lean behavior when tank got low on fuel and Charlie suggested a dual inlet banjo and running a balance line. Fixed it right up. Ran all the way down to reserve then lower with nary a pop or hiccup.
She's running good. Now if only those crazy stiff FAC dampers would break in....
:thumb:
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Mine are getting there after about 1000km but the roads i ride one are rough ! I have to say I was seriously shocked at first :grin: :grin: