Wiring in a power supply

[hooter]

Hi, I have a 2000 Nevada 750 and would like to add a cigarette lighter type auxillary power supply for running usb charged items like cell phone or action cam. How do I go about wiring it in without compromising other circuits and causing problems ? I am confident that the electrical system hasn't been played with. There is a female conector sitting in the area of the battery that appears to have no purpose. Could I possibly simply plug into that.?
Thanks

[elvisboy77]

I would wire it straight to the battery, just be sure to include an inline fuse in the positive lead.  If you are not wedded to a cigarette lighter style connector then look at "SAE" type, they are flatter and physically smaller, thus easier to store.  There are SAE to USB adapters made by Battery Tender Inc that will allow you to charge your phone etc.

[Zoom Zoom]

I would only add to what was already written. Use a an SAE connection after the fuse mentioned and run the lighter plug from there. You can find lighter plugs with a spring loaded door at the parts store. That will keep it protected when not in use. You can mount it somewhere handy if you want so you can get to it when you want without removing the seat. As EB77 mentioned, you can then unplug the SAE connector and use the plug to hook up a battery tender when you want.

I would suggest that when you connect the leads to the battery, you should observe the connector. The hot lead, (typically the red wire), should be the side enclosed in the shield rather than the exposed end. That way, when you unplug the wire, you don't run the risk of shorting the pin against the frame.

John Henry

[nunzio]

I would wire it straight to the battery, just be sure to include an inline fuse in the positive lead.  If you are not wedded to a cigarette lighter style connector then look at "SAE" type, they are flatter and physically smaller, thus easier to store.  There are SAE to USB adapters made by Battery Tender Inc that will allow you to charge your phone etc.

Battery Tender has come out with a couple of neat things that  plug into the SAE connector.
I use their little volt meter on my bikes...Alan

[kirb]

battery tender version: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4
Burns moto version(s):http://burnsmoto.com/
Powerlet: http://www.powerlet.com/products

Make sure that you get at least 1.5 or 2A from one of the USB ports. Some new devices won't charge on anything less.

I like outfitting powerlets on the bike and then using a powerlet to USB dongle or SAE unit like the battery tender. The Burnsmoto panel mount might be the kitty's behind.

[charlie b]

I also like the powerlet style.  They are a little more expensive, but, they are more sturdy in construction.  I have two on the bike, one toward the rear where I plug in my heated gear and another on the dash where I plug in my USB stuff or GPS.

Unless the connector is going to be used for a battery tender or other such power source I like mine to be wired to a switched circuit.  That way if something is left connected it will not drain the battery.  Just choose a circuit that has enough capacity.  Typically the parking light circuit is Ok for electronics.

[hooter]

Thanks guys. I am on to it.

[pyoungbl]

The Powerlet (BMW type) connector has a positive connection, in that your accessory won't vibrate out of connection.  The typical cigarette lighter type connection WILL let the plug vibrate out.  No knowing anything about the unused female connector you mention, I'd be very careful with plugging anything into it.  Trace the wire back to where it terminates.  Many dealers install an SAE type connector direct to the battery so they can keep the battery charged until the bike is sold.  If that's the case here your problems are solved.  Otherwise, remember that most motorcycle wiring is sized to carry only the amount of current the manufacturer anticipated...and they usually aim low so they can use smaller wires.  If you tap into the OEM wiring you run the risk of trying to pull more amps than the wires can safely carry.  That leads to burned wires and all kinds of unhappiness.

Peter Y.

[canuguzzi]

Don't forget a switch so you can turn power it the end off. If you get the lighted kind you'll know if you have juice or one look makes sure it is off before leaving the bike.

Marine type power adapters work as good as anything including powerlet and you get the bonus of being able to use just about anything that will plug into it.

I've used marine type power sockets for quite some time including on the Norge, they do not vibrate loose. Then you can get one of those 3 socket USB adapters that provide 2 amps per, plenty for all your goodies.

[sign216]

I did just that to my V7, taking Elvisboy's advice and wiring an cig lighter via a fused line right to the battery.  I cut a hole in the plastic plate between the forks and mounted the cig lighter there. 

It's a great fit, although later I ended up using a different wiring set up for the GPS and other etc.

[biking sailor]

CycleGear has some nice power port kits that clamp on the handlebars and wire to the battery, all clamps, fuse holders, and wire included. 

[rbm]

It would be prudent to use a relay to switch on and off the power to your Power outlet with the bike's ignition.  This way, you cannot come back to a bike with a dead battery.  Wire up the circuit as has been described previously, however, introduce an 30A automotive relay in series with the power lead just after the inline fuse.  The wires will connect with pins 30 and 87.  Wire pin 85 to ground and pin 86 to a lead on the bike that gets energized when the ignition turns on and disabled when the ignition is turned off.  This type of setup will not put undue load on the existing circuits and you can be assured of not disturbing the existing fuses.

[sign216]

It would be prudent to use a relay to switch on and off the power to your Power outlet with the bike's ignition.  This way, you cannot come back to a bike with a dead battery.  Wire up the circuit as has been described previously, however, introduce an 30A automotive relay in series with the power lead just after the inline fuse.  The wires will connect with pins 30 and 87.  Wire pin 85 to ground and pin 86 to a lead on the bike that gets energized when the ignition turns on and disabled when the ignition is turned off.  This type of setup will not put undue load on the existing circuits and you can be assured of not disturbing the existing fuses.

In the end I did wire up a relay to power the circuit, triggered by the headlight current.  See Eastern Beaver for some easy pre-made set ups.