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Your charging voltage needs to be higher than 13.4.
The lead in a battery is not a magnetic attractant however depending on the strength of the magnet and polarization it will effect electrical flow. Can you flip the magnet over and see what happens? Paul B
It doesn't make any logical sense to me either. I am only struggling for clues. My comment on 13.4 was not meant to be "exact" Mostly to point out, the higher the revs, the voltage went up. I know today, I rode 470 miles across Texas with no magnet near the battery and there were no hot spots on it. But I did run my headlight which I do or sometimes not do and not sure if I was using it or not when the two batteries failed. I am running carbs so much less load on the charging system but a regulator should regulate.... Yes, the regulator is on a stock EV mounting plate and well grounded. Ok, to add to the mystic. Both batteries, bike running down the road fine and no sputter, just like shutting the key off, total dead. Both batteries measured zero volts. A few days ago, I check the lithium battery and it has 12.4 v. Maybe it has a overheat switch in it, not sure. The AGM stayed dead for two days and today, it will actually take a charge. I will toss a real voltmeter on it tomorrow and see the voltage at around 3500 rpm. Both failures, I was running 70-80 mph. Ambo final drive so the rpm was pretty high. Maybe the magnet is total coincidence which makes more sense. JB
If I read this correctly the magnet was added at the same time the 1st lithium ion battery went in and remained in with the next 2 AGMs. I am also assuming there were no issues previously. Everyone is jumping all over the 13.4 V number no matter how many times you clarify it was a fast check at low rpm with an old meter to confirm that some charging was occurring. You may well have a less than 100% output of your charging system but not enough to cause total shutdown with a stone dead battery repeatedly. And the hot spot on the battery next to the magnet doesn't seem to impress anyone either while I think it is a major clue. Myself and a fellow aircraft mechanic came up with a troubleshooting method many years ago that seldom let us down. After finding too many problems developing following other maintenance we called it "The last thing touched by human hands" method of troubleshooting. Everything points to the magnet being the problem to me and Why would you not remove it and try. Flipping it or putting a steel plate next to it as a buffer has been suggested but I would just remove it from the equation completely. As long as the battery's haven't been damaged I expect you will be fine. Despite my former profession I am very far from being an electrical expert but could usually make things work. My "Joke" going away gift from my first aviation job was a very nice multi meter. I opened it and really liked it but everyone was trying not to laugh. Then I noticed the bag of 100 spare fuses they included with it. Those rare earth magnets are extremely powerful and I wouldn't want them in close proximity to a battery or regulator or ign. module or any electrical component. I know they sell them to stick under your motorcycle to make your bike visible to the sensors that control traffic lights but in that application hopefully they are far enough from electrical components to matter
... Can you flip the magnet over and see what happens? Paul B
Instant death is common with AGMs. We drove our Prius home from the brewpub in a driving rain one night, and when we shut down in the garage, the battery didn't have enough power to do the shut down routine. (!) I'm *really* glad it didn't decide to do that in the brewpub parking lot. At night. In the rain. Now, the question remains.. just *why* did two batteries do the instant death thing?? I have a hard time imagining it's the magnet.. but I certainly don't know. I'll just
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