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Interesting. The black box could be an electronic ignition box, regulator/rectifier or starter relay, but I donít think related to the clutch. Check the clutch cable adjuster on the top right rear of the gearbox to make sure that the adjuster nuts havenít slipped off. Also check the eccentric adjuster on the left side of the rear cover of the gearbox. You can loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster about a half turn either way to tune the lever throw. Itís easier to hand shift with the bike not running and on the center stand while rocking the rear wheel by hand. Finally, check the clutch pushrod arm on the back of the gearbox to make sure that it is not bound and has not lost the return spring or adjuster pin and lock nut.
I would check the linkage first. If the shift linkage is loose or bumping something that may be the problem.
Is the clutch lever still operating normally when you try to shift?Pics of that black box?
The box is likely the ignition safety. Do you need the clutch pulled in to start?Linkage is very easy. Have a look at it Iím sure youíll figure it out.It may be a shift return spring brokenÖ.
Shift return spring sounds like a gearbox-out job?
The box on your clutch cable is a switch. When the bike was stock, it would allow you to start in gear if you pulled the clutch lever.As Wayne mentioned. Could something be blocking the movement of the shift lever on the trans or the foot lever?If the return spring is broken, the foot lever will "normally" not stay centered. You can feel the spring pressure with your hand if it's not broken. With a heel/toe shifter for instance, if you shift in to first, the lever will stay there. To get to second you have to push the lever back to center, then shift to second. Repeat the centering to get to the rest of the gears.EDIT: With a broken spring, you may be able to go from first to second without centering the pedal. Then to get to third you "must" center the shift pedal. Fifth to fourth should also just shift, but fourth to third you would need to center.Good luck,Tom
Bear with me on this. My Cal 2 did exactly the same thing. I was expecting to find worn parts or a broken spring. Removal of the engine and trans, disassembly of the trans found the problem. There is a lever (for lack of a better term) that slides back & forth between two surfaces to go either up or down on the shift. It was going up, but not returning to center to reset for the next shift. The problem turned out to be, no kidding, a small spot of rust making it drag & hang up. It was polished & reassembled. It was not a large problem at all. As much work that was involved, we devised a solution, and it has been successfully done on another Cal 3 by a friend of mine. He drained the trans & flushed it as best he could. Then we filled it with 4 bottles of Evapo-Rust, which cost about 30 dollars. Ran the trans for a few seconds to get everything in there wet with it, then left it set for several days. This dissolved the rust spot and there is nothing in there to be damaged by Evapo-Rust. It was then drained, flushed several times with water (neutralizes Evapo-Rust.) We then ran some cheap oil thru the trans & changed that out to get everything back to normal. Worked perfectly. Seriously. I use this stuff to clean up all kinds of rust/corrosion problems restoring old guns & stuff. It leaves metal parts shiny & clean & I can soak them as long as I want without damage. As a side note, the trans has about 150K on my Cal 2, and showed zero signs of age inside. I've always put a few ounces of STP in there and another ounce or 2 in the rear drive.
As mentioned, check the shift linkages at the trans. Maybe one has come loose at a connection and is hitting the frame or something. I installed rod end bearings to the linkages on one of my bikes. It would go into first, but not second. A close look showed the bolt for the rod end was hitting the frame. If it could have moved another smidgen, it would have gone into second. I changed a few bolts around and all was well again.Tom
Some things I've experienced in the past 5 speeds.The selector spring broke and is jamming the selector mechanism, it's on the rear of the transmission. Disassemble required,Or the detent selector pin on the selector drum has broken (its located on the side of the transmission where the trans vent exits the transmission behind the starter motor.) Remove starter remove vent and spring an the selector pin tip. try not to move the gear shift if at all possible (but may be needed to be done to make sure the selector pin tip rides in the grove of the drum.TOMB
Here I go againYou sound like you may not need this, but I did a write up many years back on taking the box to pieces after you get it out, this might give you a better understanding of what's in there before you pull it apart.Mine is the Gearbox Rebuilding with pictures by John Noble, but there are some other fantastic articles by people more experienced than me, the amazing Pete Roper and Rolf Halverson for example. The gearbox shimming with pictures for example, that I'd do when in there, if you need to take it apart.https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/gb_en_complex-technical.htmHope that's of some useJohn
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