General Category > Bike Builds, Rebuilds And Restorations Only

Sessantacinque GT rehab (V65 GT), frame crabbing, gear box, transmission

<< < (3/10) > >>

Almost a year has gone by with slow progress.
I had the bottom frame rails, the swing arm and the kick stand parts blasted and powder coated.

I could not get anyone to blast the paint on the assembled engine, not even soda blasted.
So I decided to strip the paint the hard way, with Rust- Oleum Aircraft Remover.
I covered up all the holes, swing bearing, shaft drive, etc.  Masking tape works well and does not break down with the paint stripper.
Gorilla tape is more robust, so I switched to that later on.

The spray can worked great, when it worked.  It makes the stripper foam up and does a great job between the fins.
However, after a while it doesn't spray a nice stream, it starts spitting.  Anyway, I also got the can and started painting it all over the engine.

Final drive too.

I go around in circles, as I treat one area, I cover it with a plastic bag while I scrape another area.

The transmission box is all clean now.
I found a lot of stains under the paint, even where the paint looked fine.  I tried blasting one area with baking soda, but it doesn't remove the stains.

A bit more work on the fins.  They might not come completely clean.

After all the paint is off, I am going to soda blast it with a small gun.  It works well to remove stubborn paint deposits.
I was thinking of protecting the engine with a cleat coat, but with all these stains I will probably have to use paint.

Chuck in Indiana:
Everybody will look and say, "Looks good." Unless you've *done it,* those hours of labor go unnoticed.  :smiley:
Looks good.  :cool: :grin:

Thanks, Chuck.  And now that I've done it, I would not attempt it ever again.

All the paint is off, except for some surface residue deep inside the fins.  The blasting does not reach well between the fins.
It's not noticeable and I ran out of stripper, so that's as far as I will go.
Paint stripping with chemicals was really nasty, it might have taken a few years off my life. 
The soda blasting gun worked really well, provided I waited for the compressor to recharge.  It needs at least 10scfm to keep
a decent pace.  I got 5@90, blast 45 seconds, wait 2 minutes.

The stains are really ugly, but I have decided not to paint it just because it's easier to keep the bare metal clean.
I tried using a wire wheel to get them off.  I went though 5 wheels, and it's a slow process again.
Vapor blasting is interesting.  I realized that many posters here leave it bare after doing that.  I think glass peening imparts
some protection to the metal because it doesn't pit like sand does.
It sounds scary, but I just want to "erase" some of the visible stains.  I would not blast the top end.  If I ever need to replace the
gaskets, I will take both heads off and have them vapor blasted.

So I have been searching for people willing to vapor blast the engine assembled.  Most shops around here (MA) have small blast
cabinets and can't fit the whole engine.  I found a company in CT, but too expensive.

I already got the gun, so I'll give dry glass bead blasting a try.  It won't give the same finish as the wet slurry, but I could buff it later... maybe?

Antietam Classic Cycle:
Home-brewed vapor blasting set-up. Check out the rig "scudman" shows in this thread (1st page, about 1/3 the way down).

I think this may have been the kit he bought:


[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version