Rear brake pads dragging on 1200Sport

[willowstreetguzziguy]

I've noticed that my rear Brembo disc gets hot very quickly compared to the front discs even though I tend to use the fronts more often. When I push it into the garage, I can hear the pads rubbing the disc. I also have noticed that the rear brake has less stopping power than before. Can I adjust the pads so they don't drag?

[acogoff]

     I would bleed them well to the point that there is all new fluid in that caliper. Somewhere during this procedure push the pistons all the way back in their seats to dislodge any crud that is lurking behind there. If this does not help with your dragging, I am afraid it is time for a disassembly of the caliper for a look-see.

[RinkRat II]

 I would check the brake pedal return spring as they can"relax" a little. also check freeplay of the linkage to the master cylinder. Between these two it can cause a little pressure to the caliper to cause dragging.


     Paul B

[oldbike54]

 Did you recently replace the rear pads ?

 Dusty

[willowstreetguzziguy]

No, I have not recently replaced the brake pads.

[oldbike54]

No, I have not recently replaced the brake pads.

 Have you had the rear wheel off for any reason ?

 Dusty

[willowstreetguzziguy]

No wheel removal recently

[M0T0Geezer]

Cârefully inspect (eyeball) the exposed portion of the rear brake piston. Use the brightest light available.

In thousands of miles riding, and minimal rear brake usage, road grunge has probably coated and/or corroded the exposed caliper piston. That makes it not want to retract enough to keep pads from dragging.

If corrosion found, disassemble caliper and clean & polish piston with a mild abrasive (e.g., toothpaste). Clean it carefully to get rid of all cleaner residue.  Now is a perfect time to replace the old piston seal and brake fluid.

[Huzo]

There should be a very small amount of rattle room when the brake's not applied, if you cant rattle them slightly with your fingers, pull them out and tidy up the backing plates on a wire brush to make sure they're not jamming in their housings.

[Triple Jim]

I think it was covered above, but to simplify, be sure the master cylinder's piston is allowed to fully return to its resting position.  If it's being held slightly depressed, much worse things than a little dragging can happen, although that might be the first symptom.

[willowstreetguzziguy]

Can someone detail the steps to removing the caliper for cleaning? Do you have to remove the rear wheel to take off the caliper?

[oldbike54]

Can someone detail the steps to removing the caliper for cleaning? Do you have to remove the rear wheel to take off the caliper?

  There should be two bolts holding the caliper to its carrier . Remove the brake line , then pull the two bolts , the entire assembly will simply slide off from the rotor .

 Dusty

[willowstreetguzziguy]

Ok, thanks. Within the last several weeks I did ride through some torrential rain and the possibility of getting grit & grim between the pads and disc is a good possibility. That could be why the dragging sound is happening.

[pete roper]

It could also be the lever plunger being maladjusted. Make certain you aren't riding with your toe on the lever as well. You may not be initially applying the brake enough to notice but if the priming hole is blocked by the piston the system will pressurise as the fluid heats and will cause the pads to drag.

Pete

[Tobit]

If the rotor floats on buttons or spools they could be corroded.  Had it happen.  The rear rotor was getting really hot because it wasn't free to float on the carrier bolted to the hub, therefore was dragging on a pad.  Removed the rotor assembly, removed the clips holding the spring washers on the buttons, removed the buttons and cleaned them up on a wire wheel.  No problem since.

Tobit

[blackcat]

I had to replace that rear caliper on my Norge as it froze into one position and it's supposed to move in as the brake pad wears. Not saying that is your problem but make sure the thing is moving.

[willowstreetguzziguy]

I took off the brake caliper and found NO brake pad material!!! That's the reason why the brake disc was heating up more than normal, why the braking power was greatly reduced, and why I was hearing the rubbing against the disc as I pushed it into the garage. Ordered new brake pads ASAP!

[ITSec]

I took off the brake caliper and found NO brake pad material!!! That's the reason why the brake disc was heating up more than normal, why the braking power was greatly reduced, and why I was hearing the rubbing against the disc as I pushed it into the garage. Ordered new brake pads ASAP!

It's the simple stuff that gets you - especially on something like a rear brake, which a lot of us use maybe once a week!

[Ion66]

Does nobody look at the pad material as part of a regular inspection anymore? This is pretty basic and important stuff.

[ITSec]

Does nobody look at the pad material as part of a regular inspection anymore? This is pretty basic and important stuff.

People do, and sometimes they forget - they're people. 

[voncrump]

Gidday folks.
 This is very interesting to me because I would say that I don't use the rear brake much. But I have replaced the rear brake pads 3 times in 50,000 kms. When I think about it a bit more I actually use the rear brake a lot more at track days or when I am having a bit of a thrash. Other wise the rear gets used mainly when coming to a complete stop. I have been riding for 50 years but only in the last 10 years have I been taught (by my 1100 Sport) to ride properly. The rear brake steady's the bike up when you are pushing it along through the corners, also I think I might be dragging the rear in some slower corners.
Cheers. voncrump.