New 20 ounce tumblers available now! Forum donation credit with purchase. https://www.wildguzzi.com/Products/products.htm#Tumbler
Parts Book === Page 14 group #17 or individual pieces.https://guzzitek.org/gb/pl_us_uk/750/V7Racer_2012_PL(GB).pdf
Here in Canada we have a business called Princess Auto . Those joints are a dime a dozen and always stocked . Many have a hole through the joint which would allow you a metric fastener to slide through . If possible I'd geta fastener long enough to allow a nut to be used on the opposite side to really secure it . Because they're made for North America the have inch threads in the connecting ends (1/4" coarse) , buy 2 and some threaded rod andadjust to your preferred height , and hey it's cheap and is readily available . Peter
Something like this? https://www.mcmaster.com/9512K52https://www.mcmaster.com/linkages/corrosion-resistant-ball-socket-end-fittings-with-safety-clip-for-gas-springs-9/
Does anyone have the specs of the stock part so we can cross reference with the McMaster product linked? Might be nice to get a stainless strong product vs using the factory one which seems to be poor quality.I'll go down to the parts department and see if they have any stock parts available. Previous owner said they were quite inexpensive so if I can figure out what I need, we can use that as a reference to find something stronger.
Bad Chads' V9 Roamer had the same thing happen to it at the Iowa rally 3 weeks ago. Looked just like your picture in the original post.I would consider it odd that it would break like that if it was threaded all the way in and had not loosened over time and through use. Otherwise, wouldn't the remaining threads on the heim joint and in the shift arm plate have damage from being pulled apart?When I got home from Iowa and checked my Sato rear set shift joint it too was out about a turn and one half. Sato recommends using a thread locker which I failed to do. So perhaps checking this for tightness and applying a mild thread lock of one brand or another would give a more positive result.Any other thoughts?John
Happen to my 2011 Racer twice during the first 3 years of ownership. after it snapped the second time I just make a habit of tighten it once a year and never happen again in the past 7 years or so. I still carry a spare with me in the tool pouch which cost me around $10 back then at a Guzzi dealership. (don't forget there should be a spacer also, you most likely drop and lost that when the bolt snapped)
Looking at the spare parts info on This Old Tractor, a 2013 Racer model has a spacer (part # 886668) between the heim jont and the shift plate, but not a nut. HmmI think this relates to the post by RinkRatII.And I agree that it is shear, but I would suspect that is because all the forces are bearing on the inside diameter of the threads and not having the face of the spacer or flange tight against the shift plate which would limit the tendency to apply the forces to the weakest part of the fitting.Otherwise why is it not shearing on the other joint? The flange is tight against the arm and not allowing flex at the threads is my guess.I know that when I took my fitting off my stock Milano shift plate to transfer to Chads Roamer, It was tight threads all the way out and had a light grey coating on the threads, I just assumed it was an application of a mild thread lock of some sort. It did not break loose and then turn out by hand.But of course I could be wrong! Just my thoughts.John
#16 in your diagram is the spacer I was referring to. it is not threaded and just slide on the "bolted ball joint" (#22) to make sure you wont over tighten and bending the gear lever (#1) toward the bike's frame. I just make sure #19,#21 and #22 are not loose and its been fine for some yearsThe circuited part is not the spacer. so slide the spacer in first and use a plier or wrench to tighten it toward part #15.
Perfect, so that nut tightens against the spacer?
NO. That nut which is #5 in your drawing only goes on the transmission side of the linkage as the arm is not threaded. The end your working on gets the stud, spacer and threads into the arm #1. Hope this helps. Paul B
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