Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Arctic Fox on February 16, 2021, 12:24:52 PM
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More lights for next riding season ...
(https://i.ibb.co/615RcyV/IMG-1178-kopio.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/YRN6ZBk/IMG-1177-kopio.jpg)
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So i goggled Hansa candle...
ooooh scented vanilla bean.... :grin:
Who makes those? Nice quality to put on a quality bike..
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That is a nice looking kit! :thumb:
John Henry
Agreed! I had a set of PIAA LED's on my old '83 850 Le Mans-III. They worked GREAT at night!
Besides a "weak horn", nothing worse than "weak headlights" on a motorcycle!! - - especially when you need them most at speed at NIGHT!! :wink:
(https://i.ibb.co/Rv5ftt4/IMG-0003.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Rv5ftt4)
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LED?
Those sure appear to be an H3 incandescent.
No fins for the heat sink.
Even the wires are not colored for polarity.
I am going with NOT LED.
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Just bought them from internet (Romano motorsport). But they looked like ok quality .... made from aluminium with crome finish.
Lamp holders are very flexible (fully rotatable mounting shelf) ... making installation easy.
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LED?
Those sure appear to be an H3 incandescent.
No fins for the heat sink.
Even the wires are not colored for polarity.
I am going with NOT LED.
Sorry, yes 5 Watt Peanut Bulbs.
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But someone makes an LED replacement bulb. I saw them but don't remember what store I was in or who made them. Memory seems to get worse every year.
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I'd encourage you to invest or even better yet build a simple wiring harness with a relay so that the light are connected to a keyed power source and also toggled on/off via the switch.
Bare relay blocks and spade connectors are $7 for five sets of them from Amazon. Here's a simple wiring diagram:
(https://i.ibb.co/D5nD5tj/IMG-7618.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D5nD5tj)
I was planning to connect those extra lamps to bike's ignition switch (not directly to battery) ... so if the main power is turned off ... the lamps can not be on either (can not use battery). I also want to install that separately on/off switch. Using it then the main power is on. Will that make sense?
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I was planning to connect those extra lamps to bike's ignition switch (not directly to battery) ... so if the main power is turned off ... the lamps can not be on either (can not use battery). I also want to install that separately on/off switch. Using it then the main power is on. Will that make sense?
I'm a big fan of not powering stuff off the bike existing wiring but rather stand alone harness's that are connected to the battery and triggered with a relay. For bikes with mutiple accessories I like the FZ1 Fuzeblock it has a integral 30a relay, 6 fused circuits and can be configured keyed or continuous power by moving a fuse.
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I was planning to connect those extra lamps to bike's ignition switch (not directly to battery) ... so if the main power is turned off ... the lamps can not be on either (can not use battery). I also want to install that separately on/off switch. Using it then the main power is on. Will that make sense?
If those are really only 5 watt, as you state, then you can wire them to about anything.
But that is not a good idea. A separate fused line with a relay direct from the battery is always best. Then if you upgrade the bulbs, you will be all set.
Are you really sure they are only 5 watt? That is not much in an incandescent.
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5 watt in an incandescent would be equal to dash/idiot light not a driving light.
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Those are small fog lights. Maybe they will not help much of my riding, but if they help to car drivers to see/ notice me ... they have done their work/purpose.
I'm just bit worry that if I connect them directly to battery ... they can run down my battery (if I forgot to leave them on) ... or if someone just would switch them on ... as I have parked bike somewhere.
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I have auxiliary lights on all my bikes. On the first install, I went to a fair bit of trouble rigging an attractive yet durable bar mounted switch. I never use it. I have never had a reason or desire not to run the lights.
On the subsequent installs I didn't bother. More wiring to route (and potentially fail), valuable handlebar space better used for mounts and gadgetry.
As others have said, run a separate fused relay that is triggered by a source that powers up with the key. The little useless "parking lamp" in the headlight bucket is perfect for this.
Generic wiring harnesses sold for truck off-road lighting have everything you need, are inexpensive and are sold practically anywhere that sells automotive accessories. You'll have to trim back some of the wires since you're wiring a bike rather than a truck, so buy an assortment of terminals.
If for some reason you need to disable the lights, just pull the fuse.
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Those are small fog lights. Maybe they will not help much of my riding, but if they help to car drivers to see/ notice me ... they have done their work/purpose.
I'm just bit worry that if I connect them directly to battery ... they can run down my battery (if I forgot to leave them on) ... or if someone just would switch them on ... as I have parked bike somewhere.
That is why you use a relay, and always a fuse of course.
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If the OP would like I can make a wiring harness up. I do use duckbill switches that can be mounted anywhere you can drill a 1/2 hole or I can make an aluminum angle bracket that can be bolted to whatever’s is convent. I don’t care for handlebar mounted switches as the bars get congested with doodads.
PM me if interested
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That is why you use a relay, and always a fuse of course.
Now I'll show up as real blond :laugh: ... ok, I understand reason/role of fuse (have changed two of those in my Mini Cooper). One kind of safety issue/protection.
But what is that ''relay''? It'll control electricity going into the lamps/lights, right? So is it that switch (on - off switch I'm planning to intall into handlebar) or something else/extra? If it is that switch ... there is always risk (possibility) that lights can be let ''on'' even as bike is parked. Or is it something else (separately part/compaund) installed between battery and that switch? If it is this, how it will ''know'' to turn electricity down/off (as bike is parked, engine stopped, key taken away from ignition switch)?
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+1 on the Fuzeblock. It tidies everything up and you can run your battery tender through it since you can set any circuit to always on if you want.
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Now I'll show up as real blond :laugh: ... ok, I understand reason/role of fuse (have changed two of those in my Mini Cooper). One kind of safety issue/protection.
But what is that ''relay''? It'll control electricity going into the lamps/lights, right? So is it that switch (on - off switch I'm planning to intall into handlebar) or something else/extra? If it is that switch ... there is always risk (possibility) that lights can be let ''on'' even as bike is parked. Or is it something else (separately part/compaund) installed between battery and that switch? If it is this, how it will ''know'' to turn electricity down/off (as bike is parked, engine stopped, key taken away from ignition switch)?
The relay is a high amperage magnetic switch that is operated off of low amperage switch (Handlebar/toggle switch)
There are many videos on YT that explain relay and why they are beneficial.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=12v+4+pin+relay+explaination&&view=detail&mid=107843E48E955CCE5E1A107843E48E955CCE5E1A&&FORM=VRDGAR
Not sure where you are located but if you are close to south central Pennsylvania I can help you install and properly wire the lights.
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A relay would be tapped into a switched circuit. That side of the relay will turn on/off the power to the aux lights.
Okey ... I started to think there needs to be magical fuzzy logic involved on this :grin:.
Anyway, I think I will let guys to do that (take a bike into service as riding season starts). They can do this as they'll change the tires. Will be done propetly.
I just thought it could be usefull to know a bit which wires goes where, where the fuses are etc.
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But what is that ''relay''?
In this situation, the relay is like a 'remote control' switch.
A small signal from the ignition switch, or headlight, or whatever, will switch on a large current going to the lights.
You can also do oddball logic, like after there is oil pressure, turn on the driving lights, so they stay off until the motor is running.
But mainly, they are used as a simple remote switch. So the tiny wiring going to the starter button, can trip a relay that sends over one hundred amps to the starter. Well, unless it is a Guzzi and suffers startus interuptus. But that is another issue.
You can get pre-made harnesses from places like Eastern Beaver.
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I agree with Wayne. The bulbs are low-wattage 12V used in landscape lights. I have a similar-design fork-mounted lights that use those bulbs. You can replace them with brighter LEDs such as the MR11 or MR16 depicted at https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/landscape-bulbs/
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I agree with Wayne. The bulbs are low-wattage 12V used in landscape lights. I have a similar-design fork-mounted lights that use those bulbs. You can replace them with brighter LEDs such as the MR11 or MR16 depicted at https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/landscape-bulbs/
Okey; I opened another lamp ...
(https://i.ibb.co/jv5k8jd/Light-1-kopio.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/x6Q5pHf/Light-2-kopio.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/QMbPRPM/Light-3-kopio.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZVrt7jb/Light-4-kopio.jpg)
I think that looks like MR11 or MR16 type?
Honestly I think that original halogen lamp is 50W and not 5W (50W seems to be pretty common) ... and bases on text on the lamp too (3 photo).
Still recommend to change LED lamps? Which one?
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Love extra lights. Especially now that L.E.D.s are so cheap.
(https://i.ibb.co/wLMRWqm/20210111-133220.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wLMRWqm)
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Yep I agree with 50W.
The MR11 and MR16 differ on lens diameter. Note the MR16 has two different pin styles -- yours is GU5.3 base.
(https://i.ibb.co/fkK3XKF/mr11-ww3smd-30-v2-digimark.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fkK3XKF)
(https://i.ibb.co/nmcWqGm/mr16-b5smd-30.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nmcWqGm)
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Honestly I think that original halogen lamp is 50W and not 5W (50W seems to be pretty common) ... and bases on text on the lamp too (3 photo).
Still recommend to change LED lamps? Which one?
You could install those. You absolutely want a switch and relay (and fuse), AND a voltmeter. You did not say what bike you have, but most models, other that the CARC models, have marginal charging systems. They may only have enough 'juice' when rolling down the road over 3500 RPM. A voltmeter will let you know.
Many years ago I came up with a device to dim my 55 watt lights, if the charge voltage was low. Going down the road , the lights were at 100%. Stop for a red light, or slow traffic, and they would dim. I still have that device on my bike (an EV), but now have LED lighting. The lights seldom need to dim because I always get good charge voltage.
You can get pretty good LED lights for under $30 off of Amazon. A 10 watt LED, will make about the same light as a 55 watt incandescent.
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You could install those. You absolutely want a switch and relay (and fuse), AND a voltmeter. You did not say what bike you have, but most models, other that the CARC models, have marginal charging systems. They may only have enough 'juice' when rolling down the road over 3500 RPM. A voltmeter will let you know.
Many years ago I came up with a device to dim my 55 watt lights, if the charge voltage was low. Going down the road , the lights were at 100%. Stop for a red light, or slow traffic, and they would dim. I still have that device on my bike (an EV), but now have LED lighting. The lights seldom need to dim because I always get good charge voltage.
You can get pretty good LED lights for under $30 off of Amazon. A 10 watt LED, will make about the same light as a 55 watt incandescent.
Yes, there seemed to be many suitable 8W - 10W LED lights. Even different kinds (MR16 GU5.3). I see the point. Yes, wise choice for price of cost.
After all these were good choice ... I can easily change the light (if/then needed)? In some LED lights ... as those are gone, they are gone.
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These are all 10W (LED) but looks bit different ... any idea which could work best?
(http://civilight-na.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/10W-HALED-MR16-Enclosed-Rated.jpg)
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61JA5vSM55L._AC_SL1000_.jpg)
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTjadDTipjVJ32LjJo1_9auseEEcAbY-5P_-g&usqp=CAU)
(https://fastsale.news/Tasuta-kohaletoimetamine-super-mr16-10w-cob-led-spot_share-imgs/1_3150.jpeg)
(http://spaceled.co.kr/web/product/big/201708/1855_shop1_337007.jpg)
(https://bulbman.com/182547-large_default/led-mr16-10w-30k-fl30-dim.jpg)
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB11OVsXrEF6uJjSZFOq6xUvVXag/5x-100-Quality-Assurance-MR16-10W-SMD-2835-48-LED-Light-Bulb-White-Warm-White-AC.jpg)
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The two major selection factors are color temperature and beam spread. For instance one of those bulbs has a color temperature of 3,000K (Kelvin) which is more of an Amber and is great for conspicuity but not so much for illumination. Daylight color temperature is about 4,500K which is best for illumination because that's what the human eye is evolved for. If you want a Spot beam illumination ahead of your headlight then you want a narrow beam angle, 60 degrees or less. If you want more illumination to the sides then you want a Flood beam of 120 degrees or thereabouts. The integrated reflector is the primary determinate for beam pattern.
Another selection factor is input power: more power means more lumens (illumination intensity). 10W is about the same amount of power as your turn signal bulb. From a wiring perspective, you can easily go double that. But from a heat perspective the bulb might have a shorter life in your sealed housing. But you will be riding 10s of hours rather than illuminating a garden for 1000s of hours so I would get the most powerful bulb you can with the color temperature and beam pattern you need.
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The two major selection factors are color temperature and beam spread. For instance one of those bulbs has a color temperature of 3,000K (Kelvin) which is more of an Amber and is great for conspicuity but not so much for illumination. Daylight color temperature is about 4,500K which is best for illumination because that's what the human eye is evolved for. If you want a Spot beam illumination ahead of your headlight then you want a narrow beam angle, 60 degrees or less. If you want more illumination to the sides then you want a Flood beam of 120 degrees or thereabouts. The integrated reflector is the primary determinate for beam pattern.
Another selection factor is input power: more power means more lumens (illumination intensity). 10W is about the same amount of power as your turn signal bulb. From a wiring perspective, you can easily go double that. But from a heat perspective the bulb might have a shorter life in your sealed housing. But you will be riding 10s of hours rather than illuminating a garden for 1000s of hours so I would get the most powerful bulb you can with the color temperature and beam pattern you need.
Thank you :bow:
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Arctic,
I've got the smaller m11 sized lamps on my Italjet, and can offer some comments.
(https://i.ibb.co/HxLt2tc/IMG-20210218-140633125.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HxLt2tc)
First, it seems like you got a great deal. My Kuryakyn Small Silver Bullets cost over twice as much I recall.
I am running 35 watt bulbs and find the lamps are mainly useful as warning devices. I have a cunning relay set up so that I can flash people about to enter the road in front of me, using my original, stock headlamp flasher lever. I might as well have a death ray, it's that effective! (The lamps are angled slightly out to either side.) My lamps really don't provide enough illumination to help much directly ahead or even to help much looking for deer off to the sides.
Your lamps are definitely 50 watts each (contrary to their being listed as five watts) enough to demand their own separate circuit and fuse. My lamps are wired so that I have an option of having them on constantly or else standing by to flash with the high beams. This required the use of two relays. Some kind of voltage monitoring is a very good idea. I use a small LED voltage indicator from England that takes up hardly any room on my dash.
I'm also a great fan of the FZ1 Fuzeblock, which I have installed in my Griso. But it may be overkill if you don't plan to add many accessories to your bike.
Here's the link to the lamps you bought, for those following along:
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=173004045826&category=178022&pm=1&ds=0&t=1612971547000&ver=0&cspheader=1
(http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=173004045826&category=178022&pm=1&ds=0&t=1612971547000&ver=0&cspheader=1)
I had great fun thumbing through the Romano Motorsports pages -- reminded me of the old Warshovski catalog out of Chicago.
Let me know if you want a circuit plan like the one I described. Good luck!
Moto
EDIT: My 5mm, color-coded LED voltage indicator, Model K, is glowing yellow/red in this photo:
(https://i.ibb.co/QKvzHpm/IMG-20210218-161529938.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QKvzHpm)
It can be obtained for £10.99 from gammatronixltd.com, with prompt, reasonable shipping:
https://gammatronixltd.com/epages/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe/Products/K
(https://gammatronixltd.com/epages/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe/Products/K)
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Sorry to still border you, but would these be fine?
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-tkAAOSwCdhf-o7F/s-l1600.jpg)
* 9W
(the bigger ones: 10W - 12W - 15W (MR16 & 12v) starts to be too long for my lamps (because front cover/front glass of lamps). Those (4,75cm) opposite should fit.
* beam angles: 35
* 4000K
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All of those replacement MR16 LED bulbs are intended to go into indoor fixtures that are ventilated. They may overheat in a sealed fixture like those driving lights.
Maybe. Maybe not.
You can get a set of 10 watt LED driving lights for around $30. I'm not sure it is worth the effort to play with a replacement bulb only in a fixture not made for LEDs.
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All of those replacement MR16 LED bulbs are intended to go into indoor fixtures that are ventilated. They may overheat in a sealed fixture like those driving lights.
Maybe. Maybe not.
You can get a set of 10 watt LED driving lights for around $30. I'm not sure it is worth the effort to play with a replacement bulb only in a fixture not made for LEDs.
So are you saying there are pure MR16 (LED) driving bulbs availble, or? If so how I'll know or recognize one is ''driving light'' and another is ''indoor lights''? Needs to look pretty similar?
Are these fine? I wonder are there any seller in whole Europe ....
https://www.denniskirk.com/show-chrome/led-mr16-replacement-bulb-10-1625a.p220119.prd/220119.sku (https://www.denniskirk.com/show-chrome/led-mr16-replacement-bulb-10-1625a.p220119.prd/220119.sku)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QnBGxG4-Fw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QnBGxG4-Fw)
http://www.bigbikeparts.com/templates/product.aspx?ProductGuid=10-1625A&GroupGuid=24 (http://www.bigbikeparts.com/templates/product.aspx?ProductGuid=10-1625A&GroupGuid=24)
https://chromeglow.com/products/category/mr11-mr16 (https://chromeglow.com/products/category/mr11-mr16)
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AF -- that's a fancy MR16. :grin: Per the description it is "Suitable for use in totally enclosed fixtures" which your housing is. If the bulb isn't too long then it work fine although a non-dimmable bulb might be cheaper.
WRT to Wayne's point about LED bulbs overheating in your lamp fixture, I addressed that by pointing out the possibility of a shortened life in 10s of hours for high power (more than 15W LEDs) which is acceptable for motorcycle riding. Although I'm pretty sure they will last for many years of riding.
WRT to possible fixture damage, this won't occur because your housing is designed for halogen bulbs with a ceramic base and high temperature wiring. LEDs never get that hot.
So just choose an MR16 that fits your housing and your budget.
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AF -- we might be over-engineering this LED replacement. I think if you find an MR16 bulb in Europe that fits (which should be easy) you will be happy with it. :grin:
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AF -- we might be over-engineering this LED replacement. I think if you find an MR16 bulb in Europe that fits (which should be easy) you will be happy with it. :grin:
Well ... I might order those from USA (enought time)... the shipping charge will be easily same as price of bulbs but at least those are sold for motorcycles.
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I installed the Kuryakyn Silver Bullets on my lower forks in 2008. The design is nearly identical to those purchased by the OP.
Originally ran 20W halogens - switched to the generic residential MR16 LED probably 3 years ago. Very similar to this:
(https://fastsale.news/Tasuta-kohaletoimetamine-super-mr16-10w-cob-led-spot_share-imgs/1_3150.jpeg)
They work as well or better than the halogens. I use them for visibility, so beam spread isn't a concern for me. If you're trying to improve road illumination you may need to experiment.
The clear round gasket in this picture that seals the lens is probably made from a plastic-like material that won't seal well. Add a thin film of clear silicone prior to assembly.
(https://i.ibb.co/jv5k8jd/Light-1-kopio.jpg)
Pro tip: after plugging the bulb into the socket, cover the connection in blue RTV. It's easy to disassemble and pick off when the bulb needs changed. Mine have lasted probably 3 years on average.
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A relay would be tapped into a switched circuit. That side of the relay will turn on/off the power to the aux lights. A relay uses a very small amount of power to pull a magnet that switches power through the other side of it. A low voltage side to turn it on and off, and a high voltage side that switches power to your lights.
The low voltage side will have a feed wire from a switched source and a second wire to ground. The other side will have a fused wire from the battery coming in, and a wire going out to your aux lights. That way you are not overloading any wiring by adding to a circuit.
edit: Your on/off switch would be used to turn on (trigger) the relay, which would cut through the main power feed to your lights.
John Henry
Did you mean to use “amperage” where you said “voltage” ?
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I installed the Kuryakyn Silver Bullets on my lower forks in 2008. The design is nearly identical to those purchased by the OP.
Originally ran 20W halogens - switched to the generic residential MR16 LED probably 3 years ago. Very similar to this:
(https://fastsale.news/Tasuta-kohaletoimetamine-super-mr16-10w-cob-led-spot_share-imgs/1_3150.jpeg)
They work as well or better than the halogens. I use them for visibility, so beam spread isn't a concern for me. If you're trying to improve road illumination you may need to experiment.
The clear round gasket in this picture that seals the lens is probably made from a plastic-like material that won't seal well. Add a thin film of clear silicone prior to assembly.
(https://i.ibb.co/jv5k8jd/Light-1-kopio.jpg)
Pro tip: after plugging the bulb into the socket, cover the connection in blue RTV. It's easy to disassemble and pick off when the bulb needs changed. Mine have lasted probably 3 years on average.
Thank you.
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I don’t know as much as you guys about this topic.
But I put these Denali units on.
(https://i.ibb.co/M1p0kyg/BD032890-F9-CD-493-B-9-B3-B-32-BD57-D283-C7.png) (https://ibb.co/M1p0kyg)
Fused, relayed, high beam linked and switched via relay when required.
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I’ve installed Denali LED lights from Twisted Throttle in some of my bikes. I ditch the switch and just run them hot from the switched main power. I never seemed to need to turn them off. The amount of light is fantastic, but more importantly, the bike tracks as a motorcycle to others, not a one-eyed car.
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I’ve installed Denali LED lights from Twisted Throttle in some of my bikes. I ditch the switch and just run them hot from the switched main power. I never seemed to need to turn them off. The amount of light is fantastic, but more importantly, the bike tracks as a motorcycle to others, not a one-eyed car.
The only reason I ran an isolator switch to the relay, is that sometimes on long straight roads on very dark nights, a vehicle can appear a long way (3 km) ahead.
If you have extremely good high beam lights with full time spots linked, the oncoming car (or truck..!), will give you a face full of quad 9” spots the likes of which you won’t forget.
You are then compelled to flick down to low beam and with rooted night vision due to the onslaught from the truck, you can see bugger all.
If you flick from spots down to high beam, you can maintain acceptable visibility for a lot longer.
The Kenworth that I drive has 4 massive blue/white spots that when illuminated, light up EVERYTHING within stopping distance of a 65 tonne 28 metre combination....
I have had a truck “light me up” once on the Norge because I did not dip in time and I don’t want it again...
It hurt...!
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So I ended to these. I hope I made good choice ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QnBGxG4-Fw
(https://www.siriusconinc.com/ebayimages/10-1625.jpg)
''LED’s operate at a lower temperature and power load than halogen with an average 25,000 hours of use. Thisminiature LED reflector bulb produces 400 Lumens from its 12 volt 7 watt 6 LED output with a bright white 4000k color output.
These non-dimmable Litespan LED’s fit all standard MR16 Bi-Pin GU5.3 bases. Their concentrated beam angle of 20° puts morelight down the road in front of you for true driving light capability.''
There were cheaper/same price option like: 9watts, beam angle of 35°, 610 Lumens, 4000k color imput ... but as these were purposed to inhouse use I skipped them.
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Another nice thing about LEDs, you really don't need a relay because LEDs only need about 9 Volts for full brightness and the current they require is just a fraction of the equivalent Incandescent
A 50 Watt Incandescent will draw just over 4 Amps and any Voltage drop will really effect the brightness.
The equivalent 10 Watt LED will draw less than 1 Amp, that's easily handled by a small switch and you can afford to lose a Volt or two with no effect on brightness.
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I bought a pair of these 10 Watt LED pods several years back, they look ok on the V7, the cables go straight into the headlight bucket, a pair of 2 Amp reed switches in the bottom of the bucket turn them on when required.
I also fitted an LED headlight bulb so the overall power consumption is much the same.
In the winter around freezing the V7 alternator is maxed out with heated gear, so a Voltmeter is mandatory.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-light-pods/led-light-pod-2-modular-led-off-road-work-light-10w-900-lumens/1699/
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Mission complished :bow:
Now these can be called ''led lights''?
(https://i.ibb.co/MVkT6RR/IMG-1375-kopio.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/LhZvNDX/IMG-1376-kopio.jpg)
BTW: These lights have front glasses/plastic covers (with halogen bulbs). I wonder should I still use these now without them?
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Those are some good looking lights. Last month I installed a set of 60 watt LED's (about 3600 lumen). They have three LED's in the center for spot, and outer LED's for flood. I installed them primarily as day time running lights to better be seen by cage drivers.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RVfKw51Y/AUXLights.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ppWmtS6Q)
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Always a separate fuse block. Always. Leave OEM wiring alone. YMMV but if it goes wrong it's always at night, in the rain, 80 miles out.
Been there, done that, and easy to avoid with a separate block.
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I have these on my 1200 Sport and Stornello. Cheap, bright, easy to mount, require no relays, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Xprite-Off-Road-Motorcycle-Off-road-Vehicles/dp/B00SNX6E60/ref=asc_df_B00SNX6E60/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312089957955&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4301791951966469924&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008185&hvtargid=pla-570924439198&psc=1
(https://i.ibb.co/MpcGvKx/IMG-20210505-203318474.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MpcGvKx)
(https://i.ibb.co/LnNCmK1/IMG-20210427-080947058-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LnNCmK1)