Burns Moto USB Socket

[greer]

I've just ordered another one of these, planning to use it on the Nevada:

https://burnsmoto.com/collections/usb-chargers/products/usb-power-socket-charger-weatherproof

It steps down to USB power requirements so I've been using it along with a Red Band cable to run a Garmin on my MT07.  That bike has a factory accessory plug too, the bonus being that both ends of the plug are supplied using the female as a cap.  This is super handy as you can just remove the rubber sealing plugs from the back of the female connector, insert the wires from the Burns Cable, reinstall the rubber plugs, snap it back on to the male and you're ready to go.  Worked exactly the same way on a buddy's 500 Rebel too, that bike's connector is in the headlight bucket.  So I've got another Burns cable on the way, just wish Moto Guzzi supplied both halves of the connector as I'd rather not splice into factory wiring.

Sarah 

[Zoom Zoom]

I've mentioned this in the past to mixed views. I should qualify my opinion by saying that I do not like chopping up wiring harnesses. I spent too much time straightening them up on old cars once upon a time.

Having said that, I have installed this in place of the connector:
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47965-2-Pole-Flat-Extension/dp/B0002Q80RW/ref=pd_sbs_263_img_0/146-5854348-3034955?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002Q80RW&pd_rd_r=25188b62-2029-4cfb-8ce9-894e89f93cb8&pd_rd_w=A37KJ&pd_rd_wg=P50F6&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=M1ZQQ2BVVAS9GQVHQJNV&psc=1&refRID=M1ZQQ2BVVAS9GQVHQJNV

These are cheap at any auto parts store, and once you have that connector you can hook just about anything to it.. When I have replaced the plug in question,I have been able to leave enough wire on the end of the old plug that I could re-solder it if I decided to. You might notice in the link above that the wire is one continuous length. Just cut it somewhere in the middle. Note that the red wire that has the pin covered should always be connected to the source power. That way if the plug is disconnected, that pin is protected from shorting out. I have gone so far as to make a Y connector that allows me to plug multiple things into the feed wire. (Think your plug and a cig lighter plug for charging things if desired.) Bear in mind that the wire is a switched lead, which I prefer for GPS duty since it will turn off with the ignition. I usually prefer unswitched power for being able to charge stuff when the bike is stationary.

I usually do the same with an inline fuse to bring a connection right off the battery for charging stuff, running heated clothing, and also for charging the bike battery when needed. (Usually a battery tender.)

I prefer solder and heat shrink when making these connections but there other ways as well. As an aside, you could even solder one of these to the plug you cut off if it ever became necessary to use that plug. There is reference to a Mercedes plug that can be bought for 30 bucks or so that would fit the factory connector although my suggestion is cheaper and more readily available.

Food for thought.

edit: Note this is not to replace what you bought but rather a means to connect it to your bike.

John Henry 

[jrt]

I like the SAE connectors- super simple and easy to route anywhere you want.  I run several from an auxiliary fused supply box-

Then this is what I use-
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=12V+to+USB+motorcycle&qid=1572526644&sr=8-14

[Kiwi_Roy]

I've just ordered another one of these, planning to use it on the Nevada:

https://burnsmoto.com/collections/usb-chargers/products/usb-power-socket-charger-weatherproof

 

I haven't seen those, certainly look a lot better than the adapters from the drug store counter.
I like to connect the GPS to the running light in the headlight it has minimal impact on the wiring and turns off with the key and for the phone etc I have one of the battery tender two prong ones plugged into the battery tender cable on my new V7, the new V9s come with a USB adapter already installed on the steering neck which is really handy. I also plug my heated gear into the battery tender cable but you have to be really careful to unplug it when you stop or you need a bump start.

[Tom H]

I had been looking for something to plug my phone into to use it as a map and speedo.

I looked on Amazon and there is a bunch of these at varying prices. They even have ones that have a voltmeter built in, almost bought one of those, but while charging the device it shows the charge rate and not the volts of the battery. It would have been nice to see how my battery is doing while I'm charging my phone, running light, ect..

For my phone, I almost bought a wireless charger phone mount. My phone will charge in a cradle if I want. The downside was that the mount was not easy to remove so that I could move it between my bikes.

Tom

[n3303j]

https://powerwerx.com/blue-sea-1045-fast-charge-dual-usb-charger-socket-mount?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjOrtBRCcARIsAEq4rW6rDbU7upGm13DaBae-2PaNlW9WiiV8_VWwFC0dL-xnewT6w163MgAaAi86EALw_wcB

I added this one to all 3 bikes (and my boat).
It charges up to 2.4 amps per hole.
I bought from West Marine because of the LIFETIME warranty.
So far, so good.

Unplug for long term storage as it has a parasitic drain if installed on on ALWAYS ON circuit.

Mine are always on as someone is always looking for a charge at a campsite. I also run a 10 foot USB cord into the tent for late night movies and such.

[Wayne Orwig]

I just get a small cheap buck converter off of Ebay. Set it for about 5.2 volts (so it charges a bit better with the display turned way up). Hard wire on a cord and wire it to the bike. A bit of heat shrink to insulate it all and I am good. Only costs a couple of dollars (Guzzi content).

[n3303j]

I just get a small cheap buck converter off of Ebay. Set it for about 5.2 volts (so it charges a bit better with the display turned way up). Hard wire on a cord and wire it to the bike. A bit of heat shrink to insulate it all and I am good. Only costs a couple of dollars (Guzzi content).

I'm under the impression that USB chargers identify the device being charged and limit maximum current flow to match battery requirements.

Thought buck converters had no such current control capabilities.

But I'm not sure of this and am looking for a definitive answer as the whether current control is in the charger or in the device.

[greer]

There's an old thread "Source for GPS Matching Plug" and the gist of it:

From sib "I got a Mercedes extension cable, part 230-540-01-66, from Autonation Parts Direct, $23.03 including shipping.
There's also a BMW part, 83300402344, which is the correct plug with wire leads, that sells for about $15.50, plus shipping."

From Guzzidad  "If you are talking about the auxillary power plug I found on my 2012 Norge under the head stock, I found a matching plug at the local BMW shop for $15. But then I talked to a BMW friend of mine and he said that's a common plug found on garden tractors and mowers and most tractor supply shops have them in stock for around $3-4."

I'd like to hear more about this garden tractor solution, we're overrun with lawn mower shops around here.  Guzzidad, do you still have that BMW buddy?  Thanks!

Sarah

[Wayne Orwig]

I'm under the impression that USB chargers identify the device being charged and limit maximum current flow to match battery requirements.

Thought buck converters had no such current control capabilities.

But I'm not sure of this and am looking for a definitive answer as the whether current control is in the charger or in the device.

The Chinesium chargers would have you believe that the charger has some control over the charge rate. For a normal USB 5 volt charger, EVERYTHING is controlled in the device/phone. The charger is stupid, and simply outputs 5 volts. Often, the charger puts some resistors on the data line, to let the device know it is a charger and not a PC USB port. But again, the charger does not set the current, the device does.

(Quick charge and USB C is a totally different story. They device can tell the charger to bump up the charge voltage. The device still limits and protects the battery, but the charger may be asked to output more power)

Basically, a cheap USB charger outputs 5 volts, none stop. Nothing more.
I bumped it to about 5.2 volts, to help compensate for a few tenths volt drop in the wiring. That gives me a bit faster charge under heavy load. Still within the +- 10% safety.

[Tom H]

Thanks for that info Wayne. I wondered how it worked.

One question, USB C. I got a charger with the phone. That one will do a fast charge. I have hooked it up to my old charger and it doesn't say that it's fast charging. The new chargers are smart and the old are dumb?

Tom

[Wayne Orwig]

Thanks for that info Wayne. I wondered how it worked.

One question, USB C. I got a charger with the phone. That one will do a fast charge. I have hooked it up to my old charger and it doesn't say that it's fast charging. The new chargers are smart and the old are dumb?

If you connect a newer phone to an old charger that outputs 5V non-stop. All is well, but it charges slower. And that is a good think in a way, because the battery runs a bit cooler and lasts longer.
If you use a new fast charger with an old phone, the new charger stays at a safe 5 volts.
If you use a new charger and new phone, the phone can ask the charger to boost the voltage to allow for a faster charge. The PHONE still limits the current and does the controlling, just that the charger voltage bumper up when the phone said to. Nice if you need a fast charge, but it reduces battery life. I usually turn off fast charging when I can.