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The two major selection factors are color temperature and beam spread. For instance one of those bulbs has a color temperature of 3,000K (Kelvin) which is more of an Amber and is great for conspicuity but not so much for illumination. Daylight color temperature is about 4,500K which is best for illumination because that's what the human eye is evolved for. If you want a Spot beam illumination ahead of your headlight then you want a narrow beam angle, 60 degrees or less. If you want more illumination to the sides then you want a Flood beam of 120 degrees or thereabouts. The integrated reflector is the primary determinate for beam pattern.Another selection factor is input power: more power means more lumens (illumination intensity). 10W is about the same amount of power as your turn signal bulb. From a wiring perspective, you can easily go double that. But from a heat perspective the bulb might have a shorter life in your sealed housing. But you will be riding 10s of hours rather than illuminating a garden for 1000s of hours so I would get the most powerful bulb you can with the color temperature and beam pattern you need.
All of those replacement MR16 LED bulbs are intended to go into indoor fixtures that are ventilated. They may overheat in a sealed fixture like those driving lights.Maybe. Maybe not.You can get a set of 10 watt LED driving lights for around $30. I'm not sure it is worth the effort to play with a replacement bulb only in a fixture not made for LEDs.
AF -- we might be over-engineering this LED replacement. I think if you find an MR16 bulb in Europe that fits (which should be easy) you will be happy with it.
A relay would be tapped into a switched circuit. That side of the relay will turn on/off the power to the aux lights. A relay uses a very small amount of power to pull a magnet that switches power through the other side of it. A low voltage side to turn it on and off, and a high voltage side that switches power to your lights. The low voltage side will have a feed wire from a switched source and a second wire to ground. The other side will have a fused wire from the battery coming in, and a wire going out to your aux lights. That way you are not overloading any wiring by adding to a circuit.edit: Your on/off switch would be used to turn on (trigger) the relay, which would cut through the main power feed to your lights.John Henry
I installed the Kuryakyn Silver Bullets on my lower forks in 2008. The design is nearly identical to those purchased by the OP. Originally ran 20W halogens - switched to the generic residential MR16 LED probably 3 years ago. Very similar to this:They work as well or better than the halogens. I use them for visibility, so beam spread isn't a concern for me. If you're trying to improve road illumination you may need to experiment.The clear round gasket in this picture that seals the lens is probably made from a plastic-like material that won't seal well. Add a thin film of clear silicone prior to assembly.Pro tip: after plugging the bulb into the socket, cover the connection in blue RTV. It's easy to disassemble and pick off when the bulb needs changed. Mine have lasted probably 3 years on average.
I’ve installed Denali LED lights from Twisted Throttle in some of my bikes. I ditch the switch and just run them hot from the switched main power. I never seemed to need to turn them off. The amount of light is fantastic, but more importantly, the bike tracks as a motorcycle to others, not a one-eyed car.
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