Author Topic: Extra lights  (Read 1386 times)

Offline Arctic Fox

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #30 on: February 18, 2021, 12:48:12 PM »


These are all 10W (LED) but looks bit different ... any idea which could work best?















Offline Bert Remington

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #31 on: February 18, 2021, 02:07:45 PM »
The two major selection factors are color temperature and beam spread.  For instance one of those bulbs has a color temperature of 3,000K (Kelvin) which is more of an Amber and is great for conspicuity but not so much for illumination.  Daylight color temperature is about 4,500K which is best for illumination because that's what the human eye is evolved for.  If you want a Spot beam illumination ahead of your headlight then you want a narrow beam angle, 60 degrees or less.  If you want more illumination to the sides then you want a Flood beam of 120 degrees or thereabouts.  The integrated reflector is the primary determinate for beam pattern.

Another selection factor is input power: more power means more lumens (illumination intensity).  10W is about the same amount of power as your turn signal bulb.  From a wiring perspective, you can easily go double that.  But from a heat perspective the bulb might have a shorter life in your sealed housing.  But you will be riding 10s of hours rather than illuminating a garden for 1000s of hours so I would get the most powerful bulb you can with the color temperature and beam pattern you need.
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Offline Arctic Fox

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #32 on: February 18, 2021, 02:38:22 PM »
The two major selection factors are color temperature and beam spread.  For instance one of those bulbs has a color temperature of 3,000K (Kelvin) which is more of an Amber and is great for conspicuity but not so much for illumination.  Daylight color temperature is about 4,500K which is best for illumination because that's what the human eye is evolved for.  If you want a Spot beam illumination ahead of your headlight then you want a narrow beam angle, 60 degrees or less.  If you want more illumination to the sides then you want a Flood beam of 120 degrees or thereabouts.  The integrated reflector is the primary determinate for beam pattern.

Another selection factor is input power: more power means more lumens (illumination intensity).  10W is about the same amount of power as your turn signal bulb.  From a wiring perspective, you can easily go double that.  But from a heat perspective the bulb might have a shorter life in your sealed housing.  But you will be riding 10s of hours rather than illuminating a garden for 1000s of hours so I would get the most powerful bulb you can with the color temperature and beam pattern you need.

Thank you  :bow:

Online moto

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #33 on: February 18, 2021, 03:12:25 PM »
Arctic,
I've got the smaller m11 sized lamps on my Italjet, and can offer some comments.





First, it seems like you got a great deal. My Kuryakyn Small Silver Bullets cost over twice as much I recall.

I am running 35 watt bulbs and find the lamps are mainly useful as warning devices. I have a cunning relay set up so that I can flash people about to enter the road in front of me, using my original, stock headlamp flasher lever. I might as well have a death ray, it's that effective! (The lamps are angled slightly out to either side.) My lamps really don't provide enough illumination to help much directly ahead or even to help much looking for deer off to the sides.

Your lamps are definitely 50 watts each (contrary to their being listed as five watts) enough to demand their own separate circuit and fuse. My lamps are wired so that I have an option of having them on constantly or else standing by to flash with the high beams. This required the use of two relays. Some kind of voltage monitoring is a very good idea. I use a small LED voltage indicator from England that takes up hardly any room on my dash.

I'm also a great fan of the FZ1 Fuzeblock, which I have installed in my Griso. But it may be overkill if you don't plan to add many accessories to your bike.

Here's the link to the lamps you bought, for those following along:

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=173004045826&category=178022&pm=1&ds=0&t=1612971547000&ver=0&cspheader=1


I had great fun thumbing through the Romano Motorsports pages -- reminded me of the old Warshovski catalog out of Chicago.

Let me know if you want a circuit plan like the one I described. Good luck!

Moto

EDIT: My 5mm, color-coded LED voltage indicator, Model K, is glowing yellow/red in this photo:





It can be obtained for £10.99 from gammatronixltd.com, with prompt, reasonable shipping:

https://gammatronixltd.com/epages/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/bae94c71-c5b6-4572-89a1-e89006e78fbe/Products/K
« Last Edit: February 18, 2021, 04:43:58 PM by moto »
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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #33 on: February 18, 2021, 03:12:25 PM »

Offline Arctic Fox

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #34 on: February 20, 2021, 08:18:09 AM »

Sorry to still border you, but would these be fine?



* 9W
(the bigger ones: 10W - 12W - 15W (MR16 & 12v) starts to be too long for my lamps (because front cover/front glass of lamps). Those (4,75cm) opposite should fit.

* beam angles: 35

* 4000K


Offline Wayne Orwig

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #35 on: February 20, 2021, 10:23:33 AM »
All of those replacement MR16 LED bulbs are intended to go into indoor fixtures that are ventilated. They may overheat in a sealed fixture like those driving lights.
Maybe. Maybe not.
You can get a set of 10 watt LED driving lights for around $30. I'm not sure it is worth the effort to play with a replacement bulb only in a fixture not made for LEDs.
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Offline Arctic Fox

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #36 on: February 20, 2021, 10:39:15 AM »
All of those replacement MR16 LED bulbs are intended to go into indoor fixtures that are ventilated. They may overheat in a sealed fixture like those driving lights.
Maybe. Maybe not.
You can get a set of 10 watt LED driving lights for around $30. I'm not sure it is worth the effort to play with a replacement bulb only in a fixture not made for LEDs.

So are you saying there are pure MR16 (LED) driving bulbs availble, or? If so how I'll know or recognize one is ''driving light'' and another is ''indoor lights''? Needs to look pretty similar?

Are these fine? I wonder are there any seller in whole Europe ....

https://www.denniskirk.com/show-chrome/led-mr16-replacement-bulb-10-1625a.p220119.prd/220119.sku

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QnBGxG4-Fw
http://www.bigbikeparts.com/templates/product.aspx?ProductGuid=10-1625A&GroupGuid=24

https://chromeglow.com/products/category/mr11-mr16
« Last Edit: February 20, 2021, 11:25:47 AM by Arctic Fox »

Offline Bert Remington

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #37 on: February 20, 2021, 11:45:56 AM »
AF -- that's a fancy MR16. :grin: Per the description it is "Suitable for use in totally enclosed fixtures" which your housing is.  If the bulb isn't too long then it work fine although a non-dimmable bulb might be cheaper.

WRT to Wayne's point about LED bulbs overheating in your lamp fixture, I addressed that by pointing out the possibility of a shortened life in 10s of hours  for high power (more than 15W LEDs) which is acceptable for motorcycle riding.  Although I'm pretty sure they will last for many years of riding.

WRT to possible fixture damage, this won't occur because your housing is designed for halogen bulbs with a ceramic base and high temperature wiring.  LEDs never get that hot.

So just choose an MR16 that fits your housing and your budget.
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Offline Bert Remington

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #38 on: February 20, 2021, 11:53:05 AM »
AF -- we might be over-engineering this LED replacement.  I think if you find an MR16 bulb in Europe that fits (which should be easy) you will be happy with it. :grin:
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Offline Arctic Fox

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #39 on: February 20, 2021, 04:31:52 PM »
AF -- we might be over-engineering this LED replacement.  I think if you find an MR16 bulb in Europe that fits (which should be easy) you will be happy with it. :grin:

Well ... I might order those from USA (enought time)... the shipping charge will be easily same as price of bulbs but at least those are sold for motorcycles.



Offline OldMojo

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #40 on: February 21, 2021, 02:05:24 PM »
I installed the Kuryakyn Silver Bullets on my lower forks in 2008. The design is nearly identical to those purchased by the OP.

Originally ran 20W halogens - switched to the generic residential MR16 LED probably 3 years ago. Very similar to this:



They work as well or better than the halogens. I use them for visibility, so beam spread isn't a concern for me. If you're trying to improve road illumination you may need to experiment.

The clear round gasket in this picture that seals the lens is probably made from a plastic-like material that won't seal well. Add a thin film of clear silicone prior to assembly.



Pro tip: after plugging the bulb into the socket, cover the connection in blue RTV. It's easy to disassemble and pick off when the bulb needs changed. Mine have lasted probably 3 years on average.
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Offline Huzo

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #41 on: February 21, 2021, 03:26:50 PM »
A relay would be tapped into a switched circuit. That side of the relay will turn on/off the power to the aux lights. A relay uses a very small amount of power to pull a magnet that switches power through the other side of it. A low voltage side to turn it on and off, and a high voltage side that switches power to your lights.

The low voltage side will have a feed wire from a switched source and a second wire to ground. The other side will have a fused wire from the battery coming in, and a wire going out to your aux lights. That way you are not overloading any wiring by adding to a circuit.

edit: Your on/off switch would be used to turn on (trigger) the relay, which would cut through the main power feed to your lights.

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Did you mean to use “amperage” where you said “voltage” ?

Offline Arctic Fox

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #42 on: February 21, 2021, 03:27:27 PM »
I installed the Kuryakyn Silver Bullets on my lower forks in 2008. The design is nearly identical to those purchased by the OP.

Originally ran 20W halogens - switched to the generic residential MR16 LED probably 3 years ago. Very similar to this:



They work as well or better than the halogens. I use them for visibility, so beam spread isn't a concern for me. If you're trying to improve road illumination you may need to experiment.

The clear round gasket in this picture that seals the lens is probably made from a plastic-like material that won't seal well. Add a thin film of clear silicone prior to assembly.



Pro tip: after plugging the bulb into the socket, cover the connection in blue RTV. It's easy to disassemble and pick off when the bulb needs changed. Mine have lasted probably 3 years on average.

Thank you.

Offline Huzo

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #43 on: February 21, 2021, 03:36:37 PM »
I don’t know as much as you guys about this topic.
But I put these Denali units on.



Fused, relayed, high beam linked and switched via relay when required.

Offline Scout63

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #44 on: February 21, 2021, 04:46:04 PM »
I’ve installed Denali LED lights from Twisted Throttle in some of my bikes.  I ditch the switch and just run them hot from the switched main power.  I never seemed to need to turn them off.  The amount of light is fantastic, but more importantly, the bike tracks as a motorcycle to others, not a one-eyed car.
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Offline Huzo

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #45 on: February 21, 2021, 05:37:32 PM »
I’ve installed Denali LED lights from Twisted Throttle in some of my bikes.  I ditch the switch and just run them hot from the switched main power.  I never seemed to need to turn them off.  The amount of light is fantastic, but more importantly, the bike tracks as a motorcycle to others, not a one-eyed car.
The only reason I ran an isolator switch to the relay, is that sometimes on long straight roads on very dark nights, a vehicle can appear a long way (3 km) ahead.
If you have extremely good high beam lights with full time spots linked, the oncoming car (or truck..!), will give you a face full of quad 9” spots the likes of which you won’t forget.
You are then compelled to flick down to low beam and with rooted night vision due to the onslaught from the truck, you can see bugger all.
If you flick from spots down to high beam, you can maintain acceptable visibility for a lot longer.
The Kenworth that I drive has 4 massive blue/white spots that when illuminated, light up EVERYTHING within stopping distance of a 65 tonne 28 metre combination....
I have had a truck “light me up” once on the Norge because I did not dip in time and I don’t want it again...
It hurt...!
« Last Edit: February 21, 2021, 05:39:28 PM by Huzo »

Offline Arctic Fox

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #46 on: March 17, 2021, 11:28:30 AM »

So I ended to these. I hope I made good choice ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QnBGxG4-Fw



''LED’s operate at a lower temperature and power load than halogen with an average 25,000 hours of use. Thisminiature LED reflector bulb produces 400 Lumens from its 12 volt 7 watt 6 LED output with a bright white 4000k color output.

These non-dimmable Litespan LED’s fit all standard MR16 Bi-Pin GU5.3 bases. Their concentrated beam angle of 20° puts morelight down the road in front of you for true driving light capability.''


There were cheaper/same price option like:  9watts, beam angle of 35°, 610 Lumens, 4000k color imput ... but as these were purposed to inhouse use I skipped them.



Online Kiwi_Roy

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #47 on: March 17, 2021, 04:19:27 PM »
Another nice thing about LEDs, you really don't need a relay because LEDs only need about 9 Volts for full brightness and the current they require is just a fraction of the equivalent Incandescent
A 50 Watt Incandescent will draw just over 4 Amps and any Voltage drop will really effect the brightness.
The equivalent 10 Watt LED will draw less than 1 Amp, that's easily handled by a small switch and you can afford to lose a Volt or two with no effect on brightness.
-
I bought a pair of these 10 Watt LED pods several years back, they look ok on the V7, the cables go straight into the headlight bucket, a pair of 2 Amp reed switches in the bottom of the bucket turn them on when required.
I also fitted an LED headlight bulb so the overall power consumption is much the same.
In the winter around freezing the V7 alternator is maxed out with heated gear, so a Voltmeter is mandatory.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-light-pods/led-light-pod-2-modular-led-off-road-work-light-10w-900-lumens/1699/
« Last Edit: March 18, 2021, 03:35:25 AM by Kiwi_Roy »
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Offline Arctic Fox

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #48 on: May 04, 2021, 12:59:13 PM »

Mission complished  :bow:

Now these can be called ''led lights''?




BTW: These lights have front glasses/plastic covers (with halogen bulbs). I wonder should I still use these now without them?




Offline zebraranger

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #49 on: May 05, 2021, 10:03:55 AM »
Those are some good looking lights. Last month I installed a set of 60 watt LED's (about 3600 lumen). They have three LED's in the center for spot, and outer LED's for flood. I installed them primarily as day time running lights to better be seen by cage drivers.

Offline kingoffleece

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Re: Extra lights
« Reply #50 on: May 05, 2021, 12:39:08 PM »
Always a separate fuse block. Always.  Leave OEM wiring alone.  YMMV but if it goes wrong it's always at night, in the rain, 80 miles out.
Been there, done that, and easy to avoid with a separate block.
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Offline Bulldog9

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