General Category > General Discussion
One Year Ownership Report - '08 1200 Sport
Matteo:
My dealer in Portland was able to smooth out the decel.
not-fishing:
I agree with you the joys of a 2V guzzi. My 07 Griso's accelleration is more than enough for me.
Thanks for note on raising the seat. I haven't gone on any really long rides but after 3 hours I can feel it in my knees. (old soccer and ski injuries that have never been fixed)
Thanks for mentioning a Bus ride, I'm still looking to increase my stable (dreaming of a small block, quota & sidecar) and I was always thinking it would have to be a fly-n-ride or long trailer drive out - long trailer drive back. When I bout my Griso it was a 14+ hour trailer drive to get it. A Bus would be worth considering over a trailer drive. Luggage would be easy to deal with and I wouldn't have the airport security screening delay.
On the helmet lock I use a Helmetlok II through my bars.
I haven't had my Griso for a year yet and have replaced the tires, brakes, battery & sealed the speedo sender. Not a big deal because I got the bike at a very reasonable price.
Having the ECU reflashed and the suspension sorted out by the previous owner has been a big plus.
willowstreetguzziguy:
--- Quote from: dlapierre on December 19, 2014, 10:50:25 AM ---You should be able to set up the gear indicator by going through the various screen setting that are available. I can do it on mine. I've just never bothered. Check the manual.
--- End quote ---
I've never heard of such a thing. If anyone knows of this, please let me know. I would love to have a gear indicator on my dash. As for now, someone mentioned months ago to figure it out like this... at 3,000 rpms, look at your speed and remove the 0. Example: at 3,000 rpm 30mph = 3rd gear, 40 mph = 4th gear, 50 mph = 5th gear, and 60 mph = 6th gear.
bad Chad:
When my B1100 was stock it didn't pop at all off throttle. The reason, I believe, is that I had one of the best techs in the country do the initial set up, and subsequent servicing. I have seen Jim at Rosefarm take bikes that others couldn't get right, and make them so, just saying.
It did pop after I took off the stock crossover and put on a Mistral pipe, however, Guzzitech.com sold me a plug in Optimizer for around $100 that cured 90% of the popping.
Vasco DG:
--- Quote from: Mile High Guzzi on December 19, 2014, 10:55:47 AM ---Re 1200 Sport, I really like mine, good all around bike. Re Decel Popping. I have the full GuzziTech air/fuel/exhaust treatment on mine (which includes the Dynojet PCV w autotune), and I still get closed throttle popping. Even if there is a way to tune it out of the map, I'm not literate enough to know what parameters need changed ::). But, interestingly, I do notice that the colder the ambient temperature, the less popping, and in cold winter riding, no popping at all. So that would seem to suggest that the popping is caused by too much fuel vs air, but in the winter, there is more thicker air to burn the excess fuel and it doesn't pop......is that the way it works?
--- End quote ---
No. The reason you get popping on the over-run is that unlike most car systems the Magnetti Marelli set up as programmed doesn't cut the fuel completely on the over-run. On a negative throttle the ECU will keep delivering the same amount of fuel at any engine speed as it does at idle. Because at higher engine speeds the motor will pump harder the mixture goes critically lean so it cannot fire every second revolution but residual fuel will enable the mixture to ignite every forth or eighth revolution and then when the exhaust valve opens the exiting gasses will ignite the previously expelled but unburnt charge in the pipe causing the backfiring.
There are a couple of ways of dealing with it, the most successful is to cut the fuel completely in all the cells of the map at 4.6/4.8 TPS value down to close to idle. If there is no fuel being delivered there's nothing to burn and therefore no backfiring! This isn't without some side effects. It increases engine braking slightly but noticeably which some people don't like and also you get a slight but detectable 'Lurch' when the fuel cuts back in. On the map I'm currently running the fuel switches back on at 2,700 RPM and as I pass down through that point I get a detectable hiccup and in certain conditions one slight pop, that's it.
The second way is to add more fuel at those closed throttle TPS points so that the engine won't eight and twelve stroke but continues to fire every second revolution of the crank. The problem with this though is that a.) you're burning fuel for no purpose which is wasteful and will cause splintering of corn cob pipe stems and b.) it will of course mean that at idle the mixture will be very rich risking plug fouling and potential bore wash.
For either of these two solutions to work you have to turn the lambda off. With a stock bike particularly this will explain why the problem diminishes in cold weather. The engine temperature sensor on the 2V bikes sits in a plastic container in the back of the right hand head and is notoriously poor at accurately reading temperature. In cold weather it will *think* the engine is cooler than it is and enrichen the mixture accordingly. This will have the same effect as adding more fuel at those low TPS values in an open loop map and once again it will impact on fuel consumption and will screw with the AFR.
Generally, unless people are upset by the side effects, Mark's maps all chop the fuel down to 2,700. If they do find the side effects upsetting it's easy enough to turn the fuel back on in those cells. Personally I only notice it, (The fuel cutting back in.) when I'm descending a long, steep hill on a closed throttle and I actually enjoy ignoring the Tacho and predicting the moment the fuel comes back in but I'm a simple soul who takes pleasure in small things! ;D
Pete
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