Minimum and maximum oil levels 1200 Sport

[Lovey]

G'day everyone, I hope you're going well.
I have a newb  question in relation to the engine oil levels on my 1200 Sport.  I know that they shouldn't be filled to the 'max' line as it will blow out to the air filter box.  I've searched everywhere that I can think of, but I can't seem to find the answer.
Assuming a correct measuring technique of warm engine, upright and level, what is the amount of oil that corresponds to the 'minimum' level on the dipstick?
Many thanks,
Steve

[Huzo]

I have been briefed on this one mate.
The amount given to me by Roper, was 3,600 cc
That was from dry, with a new filter.

[GuzziOrDeath]

No.

Fill the oil filter with oil before you screw it on, then put exactly 3.0 litres in.

[lazlokovacs]

this is one of those things about the modern world that I just can't understand.

If you put in the amount that the manufacturer specifies, which is way too much, it spits oil back into the airbox and destroys your throttle bodies. the cost of replacing the throttle bodies is essentially prohibitive.

yet, the manufacturer sees no reason to issue a notice, or anything like that. Not even something as simple as telling us how much freakin oil to put in our bikes???

Moto guzzi - built to last until your next one.

Sadly the case for pretty much all products now.

To the OP - I have the magic figure written down somewhere, will post it up here if I find it at some point. Huzos bike has done many more miles than most, so I'd go with his guidelines.

[Bulldog9]

this is one of those things about the modern world that I just can't understand.

If you put in the amount that the manufacturer specifies, which is way too much, it spits oil back into the airbox and destroys your throttle bodies. the cost of replacing the throttle bodies is essentially prohibitive.

yet, the manufacturer sees no reason to issue a notice, or anything like that. Not even something as simple as telling us how much freakin oil to put in our bikes???

Moto guzzi - built to last until your next one.

Sadly the case for pretty much all products now.

To the OP - I have the magic figure written down somewhere, will post it up here if I find it at some point. Huzos bike has done many more miles than most, so I'd go with his guidelines.

Unlikely it will destroy your throttle bodies......... May spit about 1/2 a quart into the airbox, which may saturate your air filter, and MAY get some of the blowby into the stepper motor which MAY gum it up, but unlikely to destroy.

As for oil levels in the Big Blocks, Huzo/Roper are spot on, but I don't measure that precisely. Here's my contribution to the oil change madness and contradictions likely to surface in this thread.

1. Run motor till up to normal temps, put on center stand, unscrew filler/dipstick but leave in motor, pull drain plug and filter and let drain while I enjoy a beverage of choice.
2. Fill NEW filter with 10W60 (prefer Motul or Liquimoly), let it settle while I install drain plug (usually with new gasket, but I generally use twice out of forgetting to have one on hand), fill filter again to get it topped off and install filter after checking the gasket mount is clean and clear of any debris and wipe a LIGHT schmear of fresh oil on the gasket. I tighten to hand snug and go 1/4 to 1/2 more.
3. Remove dipstick, install funnel and Pour two quarts of oil into the Motor, reinstall and screw in dipstick, start motor and let idle for a few minutes, check for leaks, etc.
4. Go get another beverage of choice and let oil drain into sump, come back, remove dipstick, wipe off and insert WITHOUT screwing in, check level and add oil from the bottle you opened to fill the filter until the level is at the 1/2 way mark on the stick.
5. Re-install Dipstick and pour any excess into the bottle I carry in the toolkit to add while on rides. Usually it takes the full 3 quarts or just slightly less.

This "manual of arms" may not work for others, but it works for me. I always check cold and hot, but my 'base level' is checking while COLD, and find 1/2 is the best average.

[lazlokovacs]

Unlikely it will destroy your throttle bodies......... May spit about 1/2 a quart into the airbox, which may saturate your air filter, and MAY get some of the blowby into the stepper motor which MAY gum it up, but unlikely to destroy.

word over on the ghetto is that the oil picks up dirt and turns into a paste and gradually destroys your finely tuned throttle bodies until that once beautiful and proud fine mist spray pattern becomes aught but a stale dribble.

[Lovey]

Thanks to everyone for your replies, I really appreciate them. 
Not to try and be a pain (that comes naturally to me   ), but I'm trying to find the amount of oil that corresponds to the minimum line on the dipstick, or the ml/CC/quart difference difference between the maximum and minimum lines on the dipstick.
Thanks again,
Steve

[bad Chad]

This concept that you need to fill the oil filter, on the hope the motor gets up to pressure  1/4 a second faster is WAY over kill.   I have over 55,000 miles on my B11, and stopped doing that pain in the butt ritual after the second oil change.  And in truth, I couldn't notice any difference in when the oil pressure light goes off.  Think about it, I change my oil about every 5000 miles, so that's 20 oil changes in 100,000 miles.   Even if it were true that the oil pressure would come up 1/4 second faster (which I don't believe) that would be 5 entire seconds over a 100k miles!  That would mean nothing to an over built beast of a motor that is the old school Guzzi big twin.

[Bulldog9]

word over on the ghetto is that the oil picks up dirt and turns into a paste and gradually destroys your finely tuned throttle bodies until that once beautiful and proud fine mist spray pattern becomes aught but a stale dribble.

Especially if you use a K&N air filter

[Bulldog9]

This concept that you need to fill the oil filter, on the hope the motor gets up to pressure  1/4 a second faster is WAY over kill.   I have over 55,000 miles on my B11, and stopped doing that pain in the butt ritual after the second oil change.  And in truth, I couldn't notice any difference in when the oil pressure light goes off.  Think about it, I change my oil about every 5000 miles, so that's 20 oil changes in 100,000 miles.   Even if it were true that the oil pressure would come up 1/4 second faster (which I don't believe) that would be 5 entire seconds over a 100k miles!  That would mean nothing to an over built beast of a motor that is the old school Guzzi big twin.

Fuzzy Math is Fuzzy Math, whatever makes you sleep better at night.

I'm sure people have done the math, but I seem to recall someone interested enough to measure oil pump volume against filter capacity and upper valvetrain volume to come up with a time till normal oil pressure. Something tells me however it is likely a bit longer than 1/4 second.......... Then Again, the motors used for such measurements weren't owned by a Bad Chad............ 

[bad Chad]

Indeed, sounds like you're pretty fuzzy as I am.  I am just pulling the numbers out of my ass, but I am confident they aren't far off.  Anyway, the point is, it takes real effort to lead to premature wear on a butt simple motors like these.

[Moparnut72]

I basically have to install an empty oil filter on the engine of my Cummins Ram. That is because it has to go through a small hole in the inner fender liner horizontally. It makes a helluva mess taking the old one out unless I put it in a ziplock bag before I take it out. Even that isn't fool proof. Anyway the filter is quite large, probably holds a full quart of oil. It takes less than a second for the engine to build full oil pressure. Also when I got my 1400 that had a new engine installed the red triangle of death was flashing when I got it home. I had to trailer it so that was the first run for me.  A reliable source told me to remove a valve cover and start it and see if it was oiling the upper end. I couldn't shut it down quickly as oil was flying everywhere. It led me to believe these engines oil very well.
kk

[willowstreetguzziguy]

Maybe I’m wrong but what I’ve done for years on my 1200 Sport is I fill the oil up to a medium level and measure it warm. I mark it on a paper. I then measure it again when dead cold the next day and I mark the “COLD” level. So now I can measure it BEFORE my ride and add oil if necessary. So now I have how the oil level warm and cold relate to one another.. here’s a photo where the warm and cold are on the dip stick. Cold level is slightly lower. Anything wrong with that?

[Bulldog9]

Indeed, sounds like you're pretty fuzzy as I am.  I am just pulling the numbers out of my ass, but I am confident they aren't far off.  Anyway, the point is, it takes real effort to lead to premature wear on a butt simple motors like these.

I'm just busting your chops and completely agree, the time (whatever it is) to fill the filter in order to pressurize the oil circuit is NOT going to do anything catastrophic to the motor either way. It also can't hurt, as it generally takes 3-5 seconds to get up to full pressure on most motors. On my cars with OP gauges, it is 1-2 seconds when I fill the filter, 4-5 when I don't. There is a video floating around the Porsche Forums of some Oil Geek Guy who did measurements and oil analysis that supposedly shows not filling the filter increases initial wear based on bearing material in the analysis. This is virtually removed when the filter is prefilled, or when using a pre-oiler to pressurize the system.

Is just habit. Racking my brain, but I did have a car at some point that the recommendation was to NOT do this.

Back in the late 80's I had a Saab 900 APC Turbo that did not have a water cooling jacket around the turbo. Some of us who raced and autocrossed used an electric pre-and post oiler that pressurized the circuit before startup, and ran the electric pump after shutting off to push oil mainly through the turbo bearings to prevent coking. It must have helped, I had almost 400K on that motor and turbo, and most of those miles were HARD miles. One time after a circuit, the turbo and exhaust manifold were glowing red.

But, to each his own, I've done it for 40 years and will keep doing it.

[Huzo]

How’s this one then…
Wind on a new filter, upend 3,600 cc of oil into the motor.
Warm the motor and then check where it sits on the stick when wound in.
There’s your reference point, so make a nick with a small file……Simples !