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Wow ! what a frustrating sequence of events. I'd quickly have fallen out of love with such a problematic bike, kudos for so much patience.On my Stornello I'd plugged and rerouted so many vent and emission tubes I finally pulled the tank and airbox in an effort to mentally map and reroute potential problem spots. From memory the main places that could suck air into the engine are an inlet in the top of the "Y" piece that connects the throttle body to the cylinder heads, the head vents on the valve covers that relieve crankcase pressure, and the inlet into the back of the oil pan down by the kickstand. Maybe rig up a temp gas feed and clamp these hoses sequentially, hoping to find one that evens out the idle. Certainly sounds like a vacuum leak - mine did the very same thing when I started it without the airbox.This is all based on my V7II, the 850 may differ.Good luck ! I'm still working towards a decent power curve without the flat spot. Can tell once these things are dialed they're a ton of fun.Rich
You describe why I chose to leave the evap system in place on my Stornello. Have you tried a Beetle map on your Stornello? His map turns that flat spot into a bump in torque/power. First time I took it out with the new map, I pulled the front wheel up for a second. I had gotten use to that flat spot in the 3-3.5K range, and gave it a bit more throttle. When I did this after the re-map, the flat spot all but went away. I occasionally have a cold start surge issue, but only when the temps are in the 40-50's.
First time I took it out with the new map, I pulled the front wheel up for a second.
Come on fellas, no map, no matter how good is going to make a Heron head small block pull wheelies, even little ones! One can pull a wheelie on one if they know the technique, but yo aren’t going to raise the front tire off the ground because you installed a new map.
2 things* IIRC the vent system plumbing (mostly to from airbox) VARIES on MkI, II, and III models with the Stornello possibly bring different from the rest.* Though clamping off EVAP vent inlets to the throttle body can be fine, you don't want to clamp off crankcase outlets (like the valve cover vents) unless you want to cause gasket leaks. Crankcase ventilation exists so the pressure pulses caused by piston motion don't blow out gaskets. And the return line to the oil pan is simply to get some of that oil back to the pan from the airbox. It's not got any way to effect idle As for the idle problem itself sure check for vacuum leaks on the intake tract but that's the only place that can effect it. If you can't find a mechanical problem with the intake or cables, then it's time to think electronic. Look at sensor input and idle air control valve condition/operation.
I should've made it clear the clamping of hoses a brief endeavor, only to determine what affects the idle.
Just because the throttle cable closes at the grip doesn't mean it is at the throttle bodies. Check by hand that they close fully and if not find the cause. Start with simple stuff first as that's what it usually is.Good luck🤞
Don’t say that too loud. My bike is taking enough things personally lately. You might offend it even though it doesn’t have a beetle map currently . I was wondering did anyone have their V7 850 need a reflash? None of this occurred till after that it. I know it doesn’t account for everything but I just want to confirm that there is actually a reflash for this bike and the dealer isn’t messing up again.
So I’m going to check out the suggestions when I get a breather from work this weekend. Been quite a week. Just an update AF1 contacted me again offering another helpful suggestion and is checking into getting the bike up to Austin. At any rate I’m done with dealer here, they seem nice but I’m not very confident in their abilities. So hopefully Af1 finds a way to transport it and if not I’ll bring up in a week or so if I can’t find it in the next couple of days. I will update with further developments.