Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: fotoguzzi on March 05, 2015, 06:29:05 PM
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were the mags on Lemans 1 and the SP/Convert etc painted? if stripped of paint, could they be left bare instead of painted?
someone painted mine a grey color, I'm just thinking ahead since they roll fine in grey.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/fotoguzzi/Lemans%201/IMG_1301_zpskik8vz2u.jpg)
On brakes, I have a few busted off bleed nipples. first plan is trying a reverse or LEFT HANDED drill bit, thoughts?
a welder isn't handy and they broke off flush.
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I sandblasted a set of those and then rattle can'd them black. Looked great
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(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8508/8428839049_e78f6c382e_b.jpg)
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Bare alloy metal isn't a recommendable option. Strip the wheels and paint them in the original way. Which is somewhat complicated concerning the masking, but very doable.
A "few" sounds like two or three. Source replacements (new) with free nipples. Save yourself the disappointment-- the remnants are not very likely coming out in your garage-- in an acceptable way!
D
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I've had cast alloy Guzzi wheels chemically dipped to remove all the old finish. Very effective!. That "confetti" photo is of their tank depicting the accumulated paint chips. I got the impression that shop photos were not cool-- hence the unfocused hip-shot.
(http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad123/osteoglossum/IMG_7318_zpsd9ahc7bs.jpg) (http://s928.photobucket.com/user/osteoglossum/media/IMG_7318_zpsd9ahc7bs.jpg.html)
(http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad123/osteoglossum/IMG_7319_zpsszvdorsn.jpg) (http://s928.photobucket.com/user/osteoglossum/media/IMG_7319_zpsszvdorsn.jpg.html)
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I blast the wheels, prime with an etching primer and paint with Wurth wheel paint. The outer edge is polished not painted.
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Hey Brad,
I did not congratulate you on the LeMans purchase in the other thread so Congrats. Good find.
Yeah, as others have said, the wheels paint easily and I would not strip them to leave them bare, they will oxidize.
Repair the caliper bleeder nipples very easily, drill the buggers out to 6mm, tap for 7mm and install new nipples. Done. Almost that simple. I did a repair write up and posted it on Guzzi Tech years ago. Kiss the very bottom of the drilled hole just to have a clean port for bleeding.
You are going to want to rebuild the calipers anyway so, new Teflon coated pistons, seal kit etc...
Best,
Rob
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what is the metal erosion process, EDM? some machine shops can electronically erode the steel and leave the aluminum untouched...
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On brakes, I have a few busted off bleed nipples. first plan is trying a reverse or LEFT HANDED drill bit, thoughts?
I've had very good luck with the left handed drill bits and the bleeder nipple is easy to to drill strait because it already has a centered pilot hole.
Heat the area around the nipple with a torch or heat gun to get some expansion, then drill. It will probably come right out clean.
Shawn
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Blast the rims and clearcoat them either with a no-gloss paint or no-gloss powdercoat. They'll look like freshly blasted, dry aluminum.
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Slightly off topic:
I'm cleaning some rusty Convert brake rotors, and I was wondering whether they would be better painted or powder-coated, and what color.
I'm lucky in having about a dozen coaters in the area who do engine and brake components.
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Great thread, I've had the same questions. I want to refinish my wheels, and was wondering what the best process would be. Thanks for posting pics, including the hip-shot ;-T
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I recently had mine powder coated along with the disc carriers.
(http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r317/blackkat-1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0446_zps58b95842.jpg)
(http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r317/blackkat-1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0447_zpsaec4cc1b.jpg)
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I just spray mine with a rattle can, high temperature black or silver.
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Broke off bleeder nipples- find a small torx bit in your tool chest. Find a drill bit in a size slightly smaller than the measured OD of the bit. Drill a hole in the bleeder. Tap in torx bit. Turn the bleeder out.
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Broke off bleeder nipples- find a small torx bit in your tool chest. Find a drill bit in a size slightly smaller than the measured OD of the bit. Drill a hole in the bleeder. Tap in torx bit. Turn the bleeder out.
Wow, I have to give that a try. I have one of the old calipers on my CX with the double bleeders and of course I broke the second one off just recently. The first one I broke off a dozen years ago.
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Oh, and use some heat. Small torch or heat gun.
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I recently had mine powder coated along with the disc carriers.
(http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r317/blackkat-1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_0446_zps58b95842.jpg)
Blackcat - those look great! Mine are at the powder coater now. What color did you use?
Thanks,
Shawn
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Brad
If you want to try a bead blaster, I have one big enough, in my heated garage, in Bloomington
PM me if interested
Rich
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I media blasted the wheels on my V50 and used VHT (SP181 Aluminum) rattle can wheel paint with good success. Fork lowers also got the same treatment but a different color.
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Blackcat - those look great! Mine are at the powder coater now. What color did you use?
Thanks,
Shawn
I honestly don't remember what color but it wouldn't be the right one for a concourse restoration as it has some metal flakes in the mix.
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Brad
If you want to try a bead blaster, I have one big enough, in my heated garage, in Bloomington
PM me if interested
Rich
Excellent! not quite there yet but when I order new tires I'll get back to you..
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I used Eastwood Alum-a-blast on my rear wheel, seems to holding up fine and looks pretty good.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CMAOUY/?tag=mh0b-20&hvadid=4162640750&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_vmkiy469m_e
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Broke off bleeder nipples- find a small torx bit in your tool chest. Find a drill bit in a size slightly smaller than the measured OD of the bit. Drill a hole in the bleeder. Tap in torx bit. Turn the bleeder out.
sounded like the best idea... but... I got the torx in nice and deep but when I went to turn it, SNAP! so now my worst fear is for real..
I need a replacement just the inside half of the left front caliper, anyone?
the other caliper is fine tho I have not freed the pucks yet.
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You broke the torx bit? Was it a really small one? I have had them strip out of the drilled hole but never break. If it strips out I just drill a larger hole and use the next size up torx bit.
Is it broke off flush? I have welded a washer to broken off bolts that are flush and then welded on a nut. The heat from the welding is usually what really helps to break it free. Willing to give it a try if you want to send it.
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All this conversation about broken bleeder screws prompted me to look at the calipers in the junk box I brought back from Daytona 6 years ago.
Sure enough, one of the six screws was broken off. Three of the remaining screws came out clean with a little patience and persuasion. Another one came out after an hour of penetrating oil and rocking back-and-forth, although it appears about half of the caliper threads came out with it. The last one is soaking in oil and it isn't looking good, as far coming out in one piece.
As an aside, one of the calipers was so rusty the pin spring was in 2 pieces and each pad came out in 2 pieces. One of the pins was half the diameter it should be between the pads. Getting the pistons out will surely be challenging.
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sounded like the best idea... but... I got the torx in nice and deep but when I went to turn it, SNAP! so now my worst fear is for real..
I need a replacement just the inside half of the left front caliper, anyone?
the other caliper is fine tho I have not freed the pucks yet.
I have a few caliper halves in my stash. Can check to see if I have what you need tomorrow.
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I went years with broken bleeders. I bled from the feed banjo when I needed to and considered it a minor inconvenience. They have banjo nuts now with bleeders in them too, if all you're trying for is bleeding. If they need to be technically correct, then Charlie + a service kit is your best answer. Or new they're not too expensive. Check MG Cycle.
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I went years with broken bleeders. I bled from the feed banjo when I needed to and considered it a minor inconvenience. They have banjo nuts now with bleeders in them too, if all you're trying for is bleeding. If they need to be technically correct, then Charlie + a service kit is your best answer. Or new they're not too expensive. Check MG Cycle.
New F08 calipers are around $130 at MG Cycle, but the "problem" is they have one bleeder and perhaps fotoguzzi wants to keep his Le Mans "correct". <shrug> :)
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Brad, if you want to save your oem caliper, I can probably get that bleeder out for you.
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if you push the pistons all the way out (into the caliper half) before you bleed, there is no room for air for the dual bleeders to bleed. Get a bleeding banjo bolt and be done with it. If you do not like the look of the broken bleeder screw, use some RTV and glue the brembo rubber bleeder cover over the broken bleeder, and it will hide the unsightly evidence of your boo boo...
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if you push the pistons all the way out (into the caliper half) before you bleed, there is no room for air for the dual bleeders to bleed. Get a bleeding banjo bolt and be done with it. If you do not like the look of the broken bleeder screw, use some RTV and glue the brembo rubber bleeder cover over the broken bleeder, and it will hide the unsightly evidence of your boo boo...
;D Mike, good one. ;D
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Thanks ALL! Bones had an old caliper that matches, I'll swap out the half I need, his has rust / broken nipple on the other side.. If anyone wants to offer a good puck or two i could use them instead of buying new.. I'll order the rebuild kits soon.
Also from my buddy Bones I got the correct black headlight. score!
anyone have pics of the mounting hardware for the fairing? I can get this one fitted but it seems like it should have more structural support.. also the throttle cables are totally in the way.. I don't see how the cables could be routed inside the fairing w/out binding somewhere..
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/fotoguzzi/Lemans%201/IMG_1328_zps8qs7gskf.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/fotoguzzi/Lemans%201/IMG_1330_zpsdpeguvol.jpg)
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I repainted my wheels with silver urethane base coat, clear coat. The clear coat dulls the silver to a gray that closely matches the original paint. Its stood up well save the few slips with the tire irons.
As for the calipers, they came stock with steel pistons which sieze in the aluminum bodies. You will want to get the coated aluminum pistons to replace them.
Pete
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Do you have the "L" bracket that mounts the fairing lower edge to the lower triple clamp? The fairing should be pretty solid with all three mounts.
I'm having the same problem with my throttle cables. There seems to be no smooth way to route them.
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Do you have the "L" bracket that mounts the fairing lower edge to the lower triple clamp? The fairing should be pretty solid with all three mounts.
I'm having the same problem with my throttle cables. There seems to be no smooth way to route them.
yes I have the bottom brkt. but because of the wrong HL ears the fairing sits near an inch lower than the lower bracket.. I can spacer that but the cable routing is the problem.. I can just run w/o the fairing.. was just wanting to see a stock bracket set up in pics.
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Those throttle cables are fun to get to fit decently. But they will fit. There is a bracket under the headlight but by the looks of your's, it's fitting the way it should. Is that a european bike? Headlight is wrong for NA.