Lifted V7 III Stone

[egschade]

I'm enjoying my V7 III Stone but as other have stated, the suspension leaves me a little flat - literally. While I can increase the rear preload to get the correct sag it results in a pretty harsh ride for my 200 lbs. The forks have a static sag that's roughly 1/3 of the travel and when I sit on it it's nearly 2/3.

To remedy the situation I installed 370mm Hagons on the back with springs to match my weight and an extra 1" of travel over stock. Dave Quinn is the Hagon importer and was extremely helpful with ensuring I bought the right thing - you can find him at www.davequinnmotorcycles.com. Icon progressive springs on the front from MG Cycle are 25% stiffer and progressive to boot. The forks now have minimal static sag and just under an inch when I'm aboard. 

Had to make new spacers for the front as the Icons are longer than OEM and the Givi luggage rack doesn't work as it intrudes into the shock area. Works fine with OEM shocks that have the extended top but doesn't clear on pretty much any other shock in the world. Will need to have it modified or sell it on to get something different. Other little niggle is that the bike now leans even further onto the side stand despite a 3/16" plate. Simple solution there is to replace it with something 1/2" - 5/8" thick.

The result is a bike that sits a tad higher which suits my 5-11 height and improved front end feel without being nervous. Suspension feels more compliant and controlled on the rough NJ roads I ride every day. Very happy with the outcome.

[roadscum]

Good to hear it worked out for ya.

Paul

[pyoungbl]

Re the shocks not fitting with the rear rack....I had the same problem with RaceTech shocks.  They advised to mount the shocks upside down in order to get the required clearance. 

As for the front end, consider installing RaceTech emulators for better valving on the forks.  The emulators are tunable for compression.  Yes, you have to fish them out of the fork every time you want to make an adjustment.  Yes, you have to drill out the metering holes on the stock metering rod.  These are not a big deal and the end result is a much better feeling front end.

Peter Y.

[roadscum]

I was about suggest Emulators for the front end, pyoungbl beat me to it. I've got the Race Tech emulators in my V7 III Special. They were installed by they were installed by the dealer before I took delivery so I'm unable to provide a honest comment of the improvement the make, but I can say the front end is well controlled. I can say the same for the rear now that I've installed a pair of Wilbers shocks, custom built for my weight and riding style, back there.  And with radial tires installed, Conti R. A. 3's,  it's as good as it's going to get and I'm as happy as a clam. 

Paul

[Vagrant]

I dropped the front about 9 mm on my 3 and wow! Handling, ride, feel all better.

[egschade]

They advised to mount the shocks upside down in order to get the required clearance. 
Peter Y.

Depending in the shock construction you may not get the same performance if you invert them. The Hagon Trail shocks are emulsion type so according to the manufacturer, the damping rod has to be down in order for them to work correctly. I suppose the Race Techs aren't affected by orientation if you were told to flip them.

[egschade]

I dropped the front about 9 mm on my 3 and wow! Handling, ride, feel all better.

Probably similar to me raising the back 20mm. Steering feels sharper and it doesn't feel like the front is pushing as much as before. I haven't had the bike over 60 since making the upgrade but I suspect high-speed stability won't have suffered much if at all.

[MacGlennon]

I did the same thing- ditched the OEM shocks but for a set of Ikons, 1 inch longer than stock.

Besides the expected improvement in ride quality, the bike just has a nicer stance now, and just seems to fit me better.
Prior to the shock swap, the bike felt too small and low to me- but I came to this from a BMW gs. Now it sits at a height that I’m very comfortable with and thrilled with the upgrade.

Yes- side stand is a problem but is easily fixed. My center stand still works but only just- I probably have less than a half inch clearance underneath my rear tire when it’s deployed.

[egschade]

Besides the expected improvement in ride quality, the bike just has a nicer stance now, and just seems to fit me better.
Prior to the shock swap, the bike felt too small and low to me- but I came to this from a BMW gs. Now it sits at a height that I�m very comfortable with and thrilled with the upgrade.

Right - the 'stance' is something I should have included as a benefit. I also felt it was too low and that that it now 'fits' me better.

Re: the side stand, someone on my other board suggested screwing a block of something (he suggested a piece of hockey puck) to the bottom of the stand. I've also heard mention of a 'European' side stand. Anyone know how that different from the one used on US bikes?

[lsnovermg]

Right - the 'stance' is something I should have included as a benefit. I also felt it was too low and that that it now 'fits' me better.

Re: the side stand, someone on my other board suggested screwing a block of something (he suggested a piece of hockey puck) to the bottom of the stand. I've also heard mention of a 'European' side stand. Anyone know how that different from the one used on US bikes?

Hi Eric:

Sorry to reopen this old thread.  I'm new to MG and new to the forum.  I just purchased some Ohlins adjustables for my 2020 MG V7iii Rough.  I checked with the vendor, and they sold me a set that were supposed to be specifically for my bike and weight.  But they are nearly 1" longer (370mm is the spec on the box).   I weigh 200lbs, 5'11.   It did raise the bike as is your experience.    Who specked out your longer shocks for you?  I had to compress the shock to get them on the bike.   Have you had any issues from the extra height?  I installed them yesterday and was able to take a ride (hit 55 here in PA).  They seem to be riding quite nicely despite the extra length.  Surprisingly, they are not topping out even without me sitting on the bike.     

I've had a few folks tell me, it is a mistake to have the longer shock, and others say this is a great setup.  I'm just concerned with messing up the transaxle alignment or causing other problems.  Just trying to get feedback from folks with experience. 

Cheers!
Lee

[Huzo]

While I can increase the rear preload to get the correct sag it results in a pretty harsh ride for my 200 lbs.

I’m surprised that increasing preload actually altered the firmness…
BTW
It needs to be remembered that increasing the eye to eye length of your shocks, is putting the rear UJ through a greater angle and that should not be discarded.

[Huzo]

  I had to compress the shock to get them on the bike.   

Do you mean you “had to compress the spring to get it on the shock” ?
Or did you mean it the way you said.

[egschade]

Hi Eric:

Sorry to reopen this old thread.  I'm new to MG and new to the forum.  I just purchased some Ohlins adjustables for my 2020 MG V7iii Rough.  I checked with the vendor, and they sold me a set that were supposed to be specifically for my bike and weight.  But they are nearly 1" longer (370mm is the spec on the box).   I weigh 200lbs, 5'11.   It did raise the bike as is your experience.    Who specked out your longer shocks for you?  I had to compress the shock to get them on the bike.   Have you had any issues from the extra height?  I installed them yesterday and was able to take a ride (hit 55 here in PA).  They seem to be riding quite nicely despite the extra length.  Surprisingly, they are not topping out even without me sitting on the bike.     

I've had a few folks tell me, it is a mistake to have the longer shock, and others say this is a great setup.  I'm just concerned with messing up the transaxle alignment or causing other problems.  Just trying to get feedback from folks with experience. 

Cheers!
Lee

I sourced my shocks through Hagon. My springs were stiffer than OEM which allowed for less preload to get the correct sag. Yes, the U-joint angle is a little more severe with the extra height but I didn't notice any binding or any issues. Perhaps it could cause a problem over time but I suspect that would take many many miles. Something to keep an eye on with annual maintenance checks.

[lsnovermg]

Do you mean you “had to compress the spring to get it on the shock” ?
Or did you mean it the way you said.

Yes, sorry, meant I had to compress the shock to get it on the mount.  The overall length is 14.5 inches eye to eye.  Stock was 13.75"   The back suspension is not topped out, but there is not much extension left without me sitting on the bike. 

[lsnovermg]

I sourced my shocks through Hagon. My springs were stiffer than OEM which allowed for less preload to get the correct sag. Yes, the U-joint angle is a little more severe with the extra height but I didn't notice any binding or any issues. Perhaps it could cause a problem over time but I suspect that would take many many miles. Something to keep an eye on with annual maintenance checks.

Exactly what I am seeing.   Yes, I had these put together with stiffer springs, so I don't need much pre-load at all.  I've read a few other posts on various Guzzi forums where folks did spec a longer shock intentionaly. I'm just surprised that this is what Ohlins (or the dealer in Italy), put together for me.  I did not request a longer shock specifically.  The factory sticker clearly shows it being put together for a V7iii.   I asked for the shock specked to my Year and model V7 and my weight, and this is what they sent me.  I am just trying to confirm if this is OK, or potentially a mistake.  All that said, the bike is riding nice, and an improvement over the stock rear shocks.  There is a bad road I use for testing, and with the OEM shocks, the rear would practically launch me off the seat on some of the bumps.  Now it seems to soak them up nicely.  I was actually surprised, because of how much I had to compress the shock to install.  (roughly 3/4" or so).   The U-Joint angle is not quite straight when I'm on the bike, but it is angled down more than with the OEM shocks.  I do not know enough to know if it should be an issue.  My gut tells me, the rear suspension has to work quite a bit when riding, so it should be able to perform safely at any of the angles it would see in normal operation.  Appreciate the remarks and other info. folks can share.

[Huzo]

Yes, sorry, meant I had to compress the shock to get it on the mount.  The overall length is 14.5 inches eye to eye.  Stock was 13.75"   The back suspension is not topped out, but there is not much extension left without me sitting on the bike.

I’ll try again.
You had to compress the SHOCK to get it onto the bike..?
Or
You had to compress the SPRING to get it onto the shock…?

[Dirk_S]

Keep a watch on your driveshaft. I either read or heard about the driveshaft potentially failing after adding extra clearance due to the u-joints being forced at steeper angles. Then I added the same suspension work to my bike as Bulldog. Last year, during my attempt at the Mid-Atlantic Backcountry Discovery Route, I found that the u-joint had cracked and nearly seized. Don’t know if there’s a direct causation between the two—could also be the added sidecar or other factors—but it’s certainly something I’m watching more carefully.

[lsnovermg]

I’ll try again.
You had to compress the SHOCK to get it onto the bike..?
Or
You had to compress the SPRING to get it onto the shock…?

I took all the preload out, and compressed the SHOCK, about an inch.  Note that I was doing this myself, so the back end was sitting at it's natural position with the OEM shock on the other side. 
Even with the stock shock, there is not a lot of upward travel before topping out.  These bikes don't have a lot of suspension travel.

[lsnovermg]

Keep a watch on your driveshaft. I either read or heard about the driveshaft potentially failing after adding extra clearance due to the u-joints being forced at steeper angles. Then I added the same suspension work to my bike as Bulldog. Last year, during my attempt at the Mid-Atlantic Backcountry Discovery Route, I found that the u-joint had cracked and nearly seized. Don’t know if there’s a direct causation between the two—could also be the added sidecar or other factors—but it’s certainly something I’m watching more carefully.

Well, I did some more research, as the shocks were listed as OEM for the 2020 V7iii Trofeo.   There were a number of walk arounds and videos on You-Tube.  So the good thing is that based on the videos, I'm observing even more of an angle on the rear swing-arm and drive shaft on the Trofeo than I have in my setup.  Once I am on the bike, the swing arm is only slightly angled down.   I did write to the dealer where I purchased the shocks.  But they are in Italy, so really hoping it would not require me to ship these back, and as I said, on my brief test ride, the bike's rear end was much more compliant and pleasant than with the stock shocks.   I'm just a bit OCD about things, so mentally driving me a bit nuts.  Want to move on and get the front forks upgraded to Matris cartridge assemblies, and calm this rough ride down a bit more.

[Huzo]

I took all the preload out, and compressed the SHOCK, about an inch.  Note that I was doing this myself, so the back end was sitting at it's natural position with the OEM shock on the other side. 
Even with the stock shock, there is not a lot of upward travel before topping out.  These bikes don't have a lot of suspension travel.

Ok.
I wondered why the swingarm didn’t just deflect downward to allow the shock to slide on.
No centrestand ?
Do be mindful of the potential grief that you are inviting, by putting the UJ through a greater angle.

[Bulldog9]

I did similar on the Stornello, but went with 420 Dual sport/trail shocks, and heavier fork springs up front. Is about 1.75” taller static, and 1” taller when seated. The stock spacer worked well and resulted in the same lift.

8k miles since and still love the setup.

[lsnovermg]

Ok.
I wondered why the swingarm didn’t just deflect downward to allow the shock to slide on.
No centrestand ?
Do be mindful of the potential grief that you are inviting, by putting the UJ through a greater angle.

No center stand, and working by myself, so no one to lift up back of bike.  Crossing fingers it will be OK.

[egschade]

No center stand, and working by myself, so no one to lift up back of bike.  Crossing fingers it will be OK.

I put a scissors jack and 2x6 under the engine when I did mine. Could also wedge something between the tire and fender to keep the rear from dropping.

[Dirk_S]

I put a scissors jack and 2x6 under the engine when I did mine. Could also wedge something between the tire and fender to keep the rear from dropping.

If you have jack stands you can use those to help keep the rear propped up

[lsnovermg]

I put a scissors jack and 2x6 under the engine when I did mine. Could also wedge something between the tire and fender to keep the rear from dropping.

Yep, I need to come up with a center lift.  But I made due.  I used a ratchet strap to compress the first shock enough to get it on, and then the other side was no issue.

[lsnovermg]

If you have jack stands you can use those to help keep the rear propped up

I sorted it.

FYI, anyone following this.  I did confirm the shock length and model with the dealer in Italy.  They guaranteed me they were specifically for the V7iii, and basically identical to the OEM units used on the 2020 Trofeo.  He said the frames are all the
same spec. and it should be all good.   I did any initial check of my sag, and surprisingly was at 41mm.    So, I adding a little more preload.   I expected it to be less.    Also, I've been told the Ohlins take a bit of use to really "break in" and get
to "normal" operational condition, so I believe these will be fine, which is a relief.     So next up will be the Matris cartridges for the front.