Author Topic: Getting to know my Norge (Read 7526 times)

Gliderjohn · « **Reply #30 on:** June 17, 2019, 01:34:14 PM »

From MRV:

Quote

And I can't ever achieve a smooth downshift no matter what I do. I have always been able to rev-match my other bikes but I struggle on the Goose. Is that just on of the Guzzis many traits?

It seems like one has to be a bit more accurate with downshifting coordination as compared to some bikes. Has a lot of rotating mass going on which may contribute. Will come with practice.
GliderJohn

mrv · « **Reply #31 on:** June 18, 2019, 08:15:04 AM »

As long as it's a normal trait and not causing trans damage I will work it out.

Huzo · « **Reply #32 on:** June 18, 2019, 09:09:42 AM »

Don’t try too hard.
Mine is better @ 170,000 than @ 70,000

mrv · « **Reply #33 on:** June 18, 2019, 10:24:49 PM »

Mine is only at 29000

Wildguzzi.com · « **Reply #33 on:** June 18, 2019, 10:24:49 PM »

Huzo · « **Reply #34 on:** June 19, 2019, 02:15:54 AM »

Quote from: mrv on June 18, 2019, 10:24:49 PM

Mine is only at 29000

I find in the rare cases that I have someone on the back of any bike, I am not as good because I’m trying too hard.

Bert Remington · « **Reply #35 on:** June 19, 2019, 08:50:34 AM »

My 2012 Norge GT 8V bought used 14K miles believed to have been stored for 3 years shifted like my BMW R1100RT. I changed clutch fluid (ATE 200) thrice and transmission fluid (Motul 300 Synthetic GL-4/GL-5) twice in the space of 1K miles. Much smoother up-and down-shifting. When the throttle is closed, the RPM doesn't immediately drop to idle but rather to 2K then eases down to idle so that's a factor too.

mrv · « **Reply #36 on:** June 19, 2019, 09:47:26 AM »

Since the previous owner and the dealer I bought the bike from failed to disclose the flat tappet issue I naturally wonder if the bike had other issues that were not disclosed. I have found little things that were not right so I just hope there are no big things I haven't discovered yet.

Bert Remington · « **Reply #37 on:** June 19, 2019, 11:01:58 AM »

Sorry to hear that. I paid the selling dealer for major (10K km) service and received...signific antly less. Because that dealer had just performed rollerization I had my local dealer (GP Motorcycles) perform a minor (1K km) service shortly after delivery. Then I kept changing all fluids except engine oil until everything looked clean and ran smoothly. I greased most exposed items (Valvoline Palladium) and will have the CARC splines greased at the 30K km service. Yeah the engine rattles (kinda embarrassing at traffic stops) but I'm hoping it's camshaft end play or something like that. But just in case I also purchased an expensive 4-year lubricated parts warranty.

Having a 2012 like mine, you probably noticed a fastener shortage and mismatch. I decided chasing down the stock fasteners on eBay was a fool's game so I searched end-to-end looking for hidden fasteners I could replace with non-MG items and move the specialty MG items to visible or critical locations. Where captured fasteners were lost or broken, I replaced accessible good fasteners with nut-screw and put them in the inaccessible locations.

I might be the third owner as there are two distinct quality levels in prior farkle installations so I appreciate your hidden history problem. I chose not to ask.

I didn't need another motorcycle but after looking at the picture on Cycle Trader for 5 minutes, I called my bank and the next day placed my deposit. It's gorgeous but it's Italian. Hopefully there will be an MG rally near you this summer and they can help with your Italian clanks, rattles and diffidences. For me there is no looking back.

BTW I'm looking to swap my MG side and top cases for H&B. See Swap Meet.

pete roper · « **Reply #38 on:** June 19, 2019, 08:06:12 PM »

Quote from: mrv on June 19, 2019, 09:47:26 AM

Since the previous owner and the dealer I bought the bike from failed to disclose the flat tappet issue I naturally wonder if the bike had other issues that were not disclosed. I have found little things that were not right so I just hope there are no big things I haven't discovered yet.

Obvious ones which I may of already responded with are swingarm and linkage bearings which are almost certainly very dry or already damaged.

Huzo · « **Reply #39 on:** June 20, 2019, 02:03:20 AM »

Quote from: Bert Remington on June 19, 2019, 08:50:34 AM

My 2012 Norge GT 8V bought used 14K miles believed to have been stored for 3 years shifted like my BMW R1100RT. I changed clutch fluid (ATE 200) thrice and transmission fluid (Motul 300 Synthetic GL-4/GL-5) twice in the space of 1K miles. Much smoother up-and down-shifting. When the throttle is closed, the RPM doesn't immediately drop to idle but rather to 2K then eases down to idle so that's a factor too.

Stepper motor for sure.

Bert Remington · « **Reply #40 on:** June 20, 2019, 11:04:21 AM »

Huzo -- that was my thought too but I also know the ECU has it's own profile. That and reluctant cold start (starts immediately then acts like fuel starvation, second try fixes and idles well, hot starts perfectly). Will be addressed at 30K km service (as well as Pete's items). I'm happy with throttle response of the 8V: smooth up and down with just a bit of surge at low speed+low gear+level ground. Gotta stop here -- this is mrv's thread.

Huzo · « **Reply #41 on:** June 20, 2019, 11:12:18 AM »

Ok mate, I’m no expert, but I had the exact thing with mine and was tutored through it.
That’s what it was.
I tore the guts out of the old one and activated it externally, sprayed some panther piss in it and it worked.
But I fitted the new one that Pete gave me and ok 110,000 later.

mrv · « **Reply #42 on:** June 20, 2019, 02:45:38 PM »

Have looked into the swingarm bearings, have not had the downtime to take them yet. Riding too much.

mrv · « **Reply #43 on:** August 30, 2019, 08:17:02 AM »

Being on Sportbike for the last 20+ years the handling on the Norge is definitely not the same, and I understand it is not a sportbike. But it felt reluctant to tip into the corners and seemed to need a bit of work to keep it there. I used what experience I have from the track and raised the forks (lowered front end) 5mm. It made a noticeable difference in cornering. It tips in much better and is easier to hold the line with less bar pressure. So I am pretty content with the cornering now.

The next issue I need to check is when I come to a stop the oil light comes on. The first time it did it I panicked, but when I checked the oil it was fine. So it must be a sensor issue.

Gliderjohn · « **Reply #44 on:** August 30, 2019, 08:41:12 AM »

Okay, have to ask, are you using a 10-60 oil? Very important that you do, plus that will probably take care of the oil light. Handling wise it is not a sport bike but can make a respectable showing. What tires are you running?
GliderJohn

mrv · « **Reply #45 on:** August 30, 2019, 10:53:56 AM »

I am using ENI 10w-60 oil. And running Conti Motion tires.

Gliderjohn · « **Reply #46 on:** August 30, 2019, 11:16:56 AM »

Not familiar with the Motion tires. Have always used the Perilli Angel GTs. Wear kind of quick buy seem to handle very nice and not quick to squaring off which is important to us plains riders.
GliderJohn

pete roper · « **Reply #47 on:** August 30, 2019, 01:22:16 PM »

Quote from: mrv on August 30, 2019, 08:17:02 AM

The next issue I need to check is when I come to a stop the oil light comes on. The first time it did it I panicked, but when I checked the oil it was fine. So it must be a sensor issue.

Most likely it's a sensor issue but it may not be.

The other possibility is that the gasket between the block and spacer may of blown out around the oil delivery galleries. The gaskets used at the time were thin, brittle and not good at working as a compression seal leading to the problem. There are later, thicker, 'Green' gaskets available and even better ones from the aftermarket that offer a satisfactory and permanent solution.

There were also several types of pressure sender switches used on 8V's. Make sure you get one with the correct thread. The early type are NLA ex factory and it will be suggested that you install some sort of adaptor that will accomodate the later type switch with a different thread pitch. Unfortunately this 'Solution' sometimes won't work as the height added makes the switch foul on the alternator! Alternative switches with the correct threadform are available via the aftermarket.

Pete

mrv · « **Reply #48 on:** August 30, 2019, 03:57:13 PM »

I used Continental tires on my track bike because they wore slow and had excellent grip.

As far as the gasket, I can't remember if I changed that when I did the tappet conversion since I dropped the pan to clean it out.

pete roper · « **Reply #49 on:** August 30, 2019, 05:29:08 PM »

The spacer gasket is above the sump gasket. It's unlikely you changed it.

Pete

mrv · « **Reply #50 on:** September 03, 2019, 10:09:47 AM »

You're more than likely right Pete, I probably did not but I think you might have suggested it since I had the bike in the stage it was in.
I am thinking about getting rid of the colostomy bag but $300 to $460 is a bitter pill to try to take for the part.

Bulldog9 · « **Reply #51 on:** September 03, 2019, 06:27:51 PM »

Quote from: mrv on September 03, 2019, 10:09:47 AM

You're more than likely right Pete, I probably did not but I think you might have suggested it since I had the bike in the stage it was in.
I am thinking about getting rid of the colostomy bag but $300 to $460 is a bitter pill to try to take for the part.

FWIW, I replaced the Colostomy bag with the Agostini Y pipe. The result was quicker spin up to redline, and perhaps a it more noise but no real performance gain, and even with the stock can and several Beetle map iterations, couldn't eliminate popping on overrun and was never really happy with the decision. I pulled the pipe out and replaced the cat before trading it in, and felt the bike ran and performed better. If I had it to do over again, knowing what i do now, I would have gone with a Zard or Mistral, or Agostini exhaust can. Better to save your $$. That's my .02.

mrv · « **Reply #52 on:** September 04, 2019, 12:18:59 AM »

Didn't really
expect any performance gains by removing the colostomy bag. I would just like a bit more volume and a bit deeper tone from the exhaust.

Bulldog9 · « **Reply #53 on:** September 04, 2019, 01:29:00 AM »

Quote from: mrv on September 04, 2019, 12:18:59 AM

Didn't really
expect any performance gains by removing the colostomy bag. I would just like a bit more volume and a bit deeper tone from the exhaust.

As I said, removing the catalytic converter didn't really increase the noise. If anything it gave more of a metallic tinny sound then a deeper tone. But hey it's your $$$

mrv · « **Reply #54 on:** September 04, 2019, 08:03:10 AM »

Well guess I'll look into a slip on.

JeffOlson · « **Reply #55 on:** September 04, 2019, 08:23:58 PM »

I am on my third Norge! I just bought a new leftover 2016 model, and I have just about 1,000 miles on it so far. It is wonderfully refreshing after riding my very capable and civilized BMW R1200RT for 10,000 miles. I love the clunk the shifter makes, and I love, love the motor! The torque, the vibration, the feel, the engine braking, the thrust while accelerating... Yes, the BMW is very capable and civilized, but the Norge has character and is just plain fun.

I hope you sort out the issues with your Norge. They are wonderful bikes.

kingoffleece · « **Reply #56 on:** September 04, 2019, 09:21:21 PM »

I too prefer the Norge to the RT-but I can't say that too loud!

mrv · « **Reply #57 on:** September 05, 2019, 08:01:39 AM »

I would definitely feel better about my Norge if it would not have started of with me having to perform the rollerization on it. So now I am never fully ease on it waiting for something else to happen even though I did not see any metal shavings in the oil.

Huzo · « **Reply #58 on:** September 05, 2019, 08:38:34 AM »

Quote from: mrv on September 05, 2019, 08:01:39 AM

I would definitely feel better about my Norge if it would not have started of with me having to perform the rollerization on it. So now I am never fully ease on it waiting for something else to happen even though I did not see any metal shavings in the oil.

Just keep riding and servicing it.
By 200,000 k’s, you’ll start to develop some confidence in it.

JeffOlson · « **Reply #59 on:** September 05, 2019, 09:51:47 AM »

I lost confidence in my BMW after a valve spring broke and it required three weeks and $3,000 worth of warranty work to repair. I have more confidence now in my Moto Guzzi. It doesn’t matter what brand, though: stuff happens. Most of the time, everything can be fixed.

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Author Topic: Getting to know my Norge (Read 7526 times)

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Bert Remington

Bert Remington

pete roper

Bert Remington

pete roper

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