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Hydraulic clutch concerns, questions on Norge

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guzzisteve:

--- Quote from: drdwb on October 07, 2022, 08:33:16 PM ---Does anyone else have to clean corrosion off their under the seat bleeder? In the past I’ve cleaned the white to green crust off a couple times a year, a very messy process, crap goes flying everywhere when I take a brass brush to it. This spring I coated it with Vaseline and put a small ziplock bag around it so it’s not as bad. My theory is I must have a ground short someplace that the braided line is picking up stray voltage from. It’s been this way from day one almost 10 years now. Unless anyone has a better theory that’s what I’m going with. By the way I haven’t noticed any electrical issues I did replace the battery, first year I got it with a sealed type with its own brand of tender ( can’t recall name brand now) it’s on a tender most of the time it’s not ridden.
 Sorry to hijack the thread but since the conversation included the use of the bleeder, I thought I’d ask.

--- End quote ---
This is something I have never seen in all the bleeders on all the CARC bikes at all the dealerships. You got a special one. Maybe the batt being on a tender causes it to vent at the line. Could be line is substandard from factory out of " That Other Box" over there, just to get it gone off the line.

Kaladin:
The braided line is harboring some sulfuric acid.  I would rinse it as much as I could.  Nickel sulfate is green.

SemperVee:
  Following and because I just purchased a new 48K mile Norge hydraulic non adjustable clutch that seems to only actuate at the end of the lever i just did yesterday bleed and ride test the difference, if any.  HUZO was correct from a former post... Changing it DID make a difference - It seems to break "Crisper" than it did so it was pleasant surprise.  Did the brakes also so now on schedule.  Prior owner included service record and it was due anyway going on 2 years.

MY method is very easy.  I run the bleeding tube from the nipple to a 20 oz capped bottle with the hose submerged in brake fluid -  so no air positively comes back in.  Watched the reservoir spit up so I know all is working correctly and careful not to drain completely but close enough to reach in and swap out the black crud buildup on the walls and bottom of the DOT4 reservoir. 

Kaladin:
It is extra easy since the bleed connector is right out in the open.   Getting to the inner spark plugs, not so easy.

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