Little Green Wing - Aermacchi Ala Verde

[cliffrod]

Is there a difference in diameter between the top of fork shroud and where you may cut them?   There is often enough difference that a shroud or headlight ear that is only shortened from the top has a very noticeable if not dysfunctional mismatch where it meets the clip-on handlebar.  With the taper that’s often present  on both crs or cast alloy parts, it takes more creativity to make it look good. 

At least those are crs, so hopefully the Aermacchi parts are more forgiving to modify.  I’ve learned that comparable parts on other marques aren’t.

[Canuck750]

Good points Clint, when I get the clip I-ons I bought I will start taking measurements and come up with a plan. It’s a good challenge, plenty to learn about sheet metal I think.

[cliffrod]

You’ve got me wanting to do the same thing with this sprint lump I have, Jim.  So I’ll be watching. 

Dropping the shrouds and trimming the bottoms sounds like the better plan, especially if the headlight ears are removed & relocated towards the top.  Even if the ears need some modification near where they are spot welded(?) to the shrouds, it would probably be the quickest and least difficult path. 

[Canuck750]

I asked the fellow I bought the center stand from in Italy to post some detailed pictures of his father's Ala Verde fork shrouds and clip-ons, some good pictures should help.

I got the bottom end assembled today, there are so many little differences over the model years to these 250/350 motors that a factory Service manual is essential. HD / Aermacchi changed the cranks and bore in 1967 - 1968, then in 69 they went to the 350, There are differences in clutch, gear shims etc for various series of these, a bit confusing but I think I got the clutch basket, crank pinion and cam gears properly installed and end float shimmed to tolerance. I bought a of shims recently for the Benelli motors, they sure came in hand on the Aermacchi as well. What is it with Italian motors and shims?

[Canuck750]

The tale of two different fork shrouds, the 1961 HD / Aermacchi Wisconsin type with 17” front wheel and typical handlebars clamped onto the top of the upper triple.



Picture of an original 1961 Ala Verde from an Italian owner sent to me this evening.



The signal lights have been added by the owner and the original flat clip-ons replaced with upswept clip-ons



I am looking forward to figuring this out.

I think the best plan is to drop the fork shrouds lower on my bike by increasing the slot in the fork shroud at the lower triple clamp and then welding in a closure piece of sheet metal to return the slot to a stick look, then trim down the bottom of the shroud. I could also trim down the top of the shroud and weld in a new steel cap I can make on my lathe with an I.D. Of 30mm to let the fork tube to run through.

Thank god fir motorcycle enthusiasts all over the world!

[Canuck750]

This week I tried my hand at some sheet metal work, the rear fender I am using is off a Sears Gilera 106, it is the closet thing I could find to match the Aermacchi Ala Verde rear fender, like the Gilera the Aermacchi has a 17" rear wheel so the radius and clearance to the rear tire works with this fender. The problem with the fender I have is it is pretty beat up, the rear of the fender is cracked and a lot of rust at the edge and the sides are flimsy and cracked as well.

I decided to cut out the side panels and replace them with solid metal cut from 22 gauge sheet stock. A card paper pattern



Cut out the old steel



I folded the top edge of the patch panel to rest on the lock seam of the main fender



Then welded in the patch



I bought a couple tool steel rods, 1/8' diameter and welded these to the inside of the patch to make a beaded lip



I blended the rod to the original folded lip



I had an Aermacchi rear fender I was not using and cut out the rear of it to patch into this Gilera fender





welded the patch from both sides and ground down the welds



I think it all turned out quite well, I will lead fill the joints and and though it will weigh a lot more than original it will do the job



I got the engine head studs back from the plating shop and torqued down the studs and installed the piston, waiting on the machine shop to finish the head